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HX Stomp XL power supplies wires keep fraying at the AC box. They're costing me $63.00 each with tax, Does anyone hav a fix this? Hard to believe the good folks at Line 6 didn't curtail this issue. Will old POD or m( power supplies work with stomp XL ??


ralphsong
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I'm on my 3rd HX Stomp XL power supply in one year.  They cost me $63.00 each with tax. 

The thin wire frays where it enters the AC box due to the proximity of that cylinder that's about the size of a C battery. 

My 25 year old POD power supply is still perfect, as is my 16 year old my m9  power supply, but I don't think those are compatible with the Stomp XL.  I don't think the good folks at Line 6 were  on "Top of their game" with this issue,  which is an problem for other players according to the reviews.   If anyone has a "fix" for this, please let me know. I guess the stomp is fine for desktop use only, but I thought I could use it successfully in professional studio and live performances. Maybe the Line 6 folks will address this in the future with a more professional power supply. 

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I believe a fair number, if not most users, are mounting these pedals (the Stomp and Stomp XL) on pedalboards and are powering them with various power supply bricks. I use the Cioks DC7 to power mine, and it works great. I suppose if I were using a wall wart type supply and needed a replacement, I’d look for something that meets the specs that less money. There are a bunch of third party power supplies available on Amazon and other places. You just have to make sure they’re the correct voltage, polarity and are using the proper plug size.

 

The older Line 6 power supplies you mentioned are actually 9V AC, so you’re correct, they won’t work with the XL.

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  • 7 months later...

I am experiencing a similar problem with my Pod GO psu.  Thinking of trying a glue gun to reinforce & insulate the exposed wires.  The fraying is happening right next to the so-called strain relief that emerges from the block.  It’s a shame that the magnetic choke isn’t removable since I would’ve preferred to slide some heat-shrink along the wire.  There doesn’t seem to be a way of easily disassembling the unit to replace/resolder the wires.  It’s a bit crap, really…

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