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Line 6 Central does not connect to Variax at this time.

VDI cable impedance is consistent, 1/4" TRS cable impedance can vary some between different makers.

Probably needs a set-up, hasn't been service in some time. Pick-up height, worn string nut, couple other things are typical of the quack sound. Doubt it's wiring, that would sound different. But good deduction though.

No, the insides are not the same.

I have one and yes, the claim was one of the frequencies was "slower", as the signal changed, than the others (hi mid lo) so it would delay a band so the hi mid, and low sound waves were realligned. I do think it sounded different from a plain EQ. I remember hearing that the reallignment thing was just hype. I have not used it since I've gone to Line 6. Here's one of the best articles about how it works that I've seen. It's from Sweetwater but it really is accurate and not a lot of hype. https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/what-bbe-effective/

Has anyone here had any success in creating the BBE Sonic Maximizer effect with their Helix? I saw a post on the Fractal forum where a guy used an EQ curve to achieve it. From his post: For the 'Lo Contour' (bass) knob, enter the following values for each of the parameters in the first band on the first page of the PEQ block: Freq 1: 50.00 Hz Q1: 0.248 Gain 1: 1.50 dB Frequency 1 Type: Peaking For the 'Process' (treble) control, enter the following values for each of the parameters in the second band on the first page of the PEQ block: Freq 5: 9000 Hz Q5: 0.248 Gain 5: 1.50 dB Frequency 5 Type: Peaking So, I gave it a try using the Helix’s Parametric EQ block, but I wasn’t really hearing it. The EQ in the Helix doesn’t have the ability to select Peaking as on the Fractal…I’m not so sure how much of a factor that would be (or not). To a lesser degree, the Helix would only allow me to input single-digit values for the Q values so I just created two different block settings- one with the Q rounded down to .2, and one rounded up to .3. Then of course there’s BBE’s claim that their “effect” re-aligns the low and high frequencies w/each other so that they arrive at your ear at the same time. Perhaps, or maybe that claim is just hype and it’s really just an EQ curve, which is what brought me here. @craiganderton ?

Again, thanks for sharing. Put it into test mode and then selected UI. Watched a guy on youtube perform this exact test, as his knobs turned green from red. My Helix could care less that I was turning any knob, press a button or whatever, despite the fact all the others appear to work fine. It's become clear, what I am observing is likely beyond the scope of regular forum users. :( Seem like I I will need to get in contact with Line 6 technical support. The next logical step. Thanks for your helpful input. Cheers!

simply amazing!

Again, contact support to find the best source for customers in Spain. Tell them what part you need. They would know better than anyone on this forum where you can get that part in your area of the world.

Hi, If, as you say, you "followed all instructions to the letter", then how would it be possible lose all your presets? The Release Notes for all Firmware Updates clearly state:- "HX Edit knows when a new update is available and will walk you through the entire update procedure for both hardware and software, including backing up everything to your computer. " (My Bold and Italics added to clarify). Before installing you should make a backup if the entire contents of your hardware device! This is normal practice. Also, the "new update" that you mention dated January 24th, was actually Firmware v.3.71.0. There is no v.3.72. The next rumoured update, according to Digital Igloo in a post over on TGP, "we're shooting for some time this summer (EDIT: or fall). 3.80 will be quite a bit smaller than 3.70". Ho, hum, although looks like you will be missing out. ;-)

Yup, it’s on a compilation of out takes from “Sheik Yerbouti”.

Hi, again, There is no “simultaneous knob turning” required to enter, and return, from the 8 to 10 foot-switches setting. See video from 1.00 in I haven’t seen any other reports about this - if it was something common, this place usually lights up with posts about the situation. It may be a bug, but it also might be a hardware issue, especially as you say that you have now tried the usual Factory Reset and Re-flashed the Firmware. One final thing to try - Turn on the power to your Helix, and simultaneously hold down FS3&4 - while it boots, this will put the unit into “Test Mode” which should return a reading on screen showing what is functioning correctly, by testing each component one by one. EDIT: Oh, another TEST mode using the first 4 encoders, is to power on and hold down FS2&3 until the Helix boots. It should now display a little LED fun routine where you can control the colours of the LED rings, where Enc1 = RED, Enc2 = Green and 3 = Blue, you can use Enc4 to control the colour mix. Either of these two tests should show if your Encoder 3 is working or not. Still not working? It could be time to put a call into Customer Support, as physical hardware solutions are generally beyond the scope of the regular forum users. Hope this helps/makes sense.

This happened to me with the last update and I nearly lost all my presets having followed all instructions to the letter. I got it fixed eventually (after much stress!) with huge help from from Line6 over the telephone for which I am very grateful. i just came here because I just saw there was a new update (3.72 Jan 24) and wanted to see how it was going. i will NOT be upgrading, my machine is working fine as it is and I don’t want to take tte risk. It’s a shame because I like keeping machines up to date but this just isn’t worth the stress. My advice to others (just my regretful POV) is to hold off updating if you can unless you enjoy base jumping and other ultra high adrenaline things :-D

I live in Spain,

So far as the multi-effect that allow both two- and four-cable methods, the ground lift switch should be necessary for the return connector of "either" the pedal (HX ONE) or the amplifier. Also, more switches (mechanical parts) can cause more troubles. I'm not sure if the ground looping is the culprit of the trouble in this thread, but a ground-lift switch would not be that essential, so long as the problem can be solved by one cable whose shield is disconnected on one side.

Hey, thanks for all your replies. Well.... I happened to be fiddling with the Stomp Mode Switch setting, while at the same time turning the Preset Mode Switch setting and all of a sudden "10 Switches" appeared. When I tried to turn it back, it doesn't return to 8 Switches. It does eventually, if I am turning the Preset Mode Switch back and forth through all it's possible settings. It's like the Helix needs to have something changing in the 2nd knob, before it will recognize I am turning the third knob. Like I said previously, none of this happens when I am adjusting a value associated with Amps or Stomps. Knob 3 adjusts the values perfectly. So, I can make my screen look like your screen capture, with a bunch of simultaneous knob turning. Can't help but wonder if others may be using the third knob so rarely they may not even notice that it works inconsistently in Global Settings. At least that's what I observe! After it does change the number of Stomp Mode Switches, I can then set whatever Preset Mode I want with the second knob. I guess that's a work around, but I still see this as an inherent software issue that is not resolved by installing the present firmware or a Factory Reset. I can say that, because I successfully did both today, and still could not get knob 3 to work afterward, until I started turning both the second and third knob at the same time. Tried the same trick in the other Global menus and could get the third knob to work in them, but it's incredibly uncontrolled movement across settings that offer a range of values, and can even move in the reverse direction that I'm turning the actual knob. Specifically, on the Ins/Outs setting for Mic In Gain! It doesn't seem to behave like that in the other Global Settings. If it was a physical or electrical problem between knob 2 and knob 3 on my Helix, you'd expect to observe the same wacky behaviour when adjusting Amp/Stomp values. Never even noticed this issue, until I bought a Helix preset that used 10 switches... Anyway, that's the poor workaround I have figured out to date, and would welcome other comments as to whether I am the only one observing this issue? Right now, we've only got a verified sample of two... where I am observing this issue and datacommando is not. Thanks in advance for any and all feedback

Third knob from the left hmm, musta been on a bootleg I never heard . . .

Thanks for the follow up. Part of successful use of stage monitors is to find the right place: the listening angle, distance to you, distance to walls, placement on the floor vs on a stand or chair. All of those things have an impact. Also the room reflections, how much stuff is in the room and your position in it matter. Glad you found a happy place - rock on!

With reference to the above post, I’ve found a Variax 500 for spares, does anyone know if the electronics in the 500 are the same as the 600?

Update: Sorry to have disappeared. My daily driver laptop died. I had to replace it and attend some meetings and get some work done. After looking at this from every angle, I decided perhaps my problem wasn't the HX Stomp, or the Headrush 108. I figured the Headrush was simply oversized for this room, and decided to try something different. I got some small monitors; Presonus Eris 3.5. Problem solved. Through these, I get all the high end content I expect and the amp models sound like they should. I don't know the theory behind all this, but the Headrush really wanted to be louder. The HX Stomp still pushes more bass than Helix Native through Xsonic Interface into the same speakers, but is isn't causing the drowning effect through the Presonus monitors like I was having with the Headrush. I can dial that out now. So maybe it was a perfect storm of the Headrush only opening up at a volume I didn't want in this room. All I can say is I am pretty damn happy now.

Ok, it was easier than I thought. A couple of YouTube videos recommend starting with the Cali IV Rythm 1 or Cali Texas Ch 2 amp and both YouTube videos recommend the Scream 808. Just both of these blocks along with a stereo reverb (Dynamic Hall) gets you pretty close to his sound with the right guitar. I'm using the settings below with a PRS Custom 24 with the pickup switch in the middle (both humbuckers). Pretty happy with the sound, but I would like to figure out how Santana gets that snap attack slap echo sound he gets around 1:28 in the YouTube video above. My guess is it might be more about technique and possibly the type of pick he uses. Mesa Boogie Mark II C+ (Cali IV Rythm 1) Drive - 9.4 Bass - 7 Mid - 7 Treb - 5 Presence - 7.1 Ch Vol - 5.1 Master -7 Sag, Ripple, Bias, Bias X - 5.0 80Hz +1.6 dB 240Hz -0.5 dB 750Hz 0.0 dB 2200Hz +0.1 dB 6600Hz +0.4 dB Tube Screamer Tone 4 Drive 6 Level 3

MIDI is MIDI. If the device has a 5pin MIDI port and you connect it to another device with a 5pin MIDI port, the age of the device re compatibility is NOT the issue. The issue is what EXACTLY is the sending device sending, and can the receiving device actually HEAR what is being sent. Connect your HD500 to your computer using a MIDI Interface. That could be an Audio Interface with MIDI Ports or even the cheapest MIDI to USB cable: Amazon.com: TENINYU USB to MIDI Cable Converter 2 in 1 PC to Synthesizer Music Studio Keyboard Interface Wire Plug Controller Adapter Cord 16 Channels Supports Computer Laptop Windows and Mac : Musical Instruments DL a MIDI Monitor such as this: MIDIView - Free MIDI Monitor tool for Win & Mac (hautetechnique.com) This will tell you what EXACTLY is being sent. Most importantly the MIDI CHANNEL. Assuming that the MIDI CHANNEL matches between the HD500 and the Catalyst, you should have communication. That said, I have observed that the Catalyst works best on MIDI Channel 1. That should not be an issue, but it can be, so use MIDI CHANNEL 1. Read the devices' manuals to see how to set these. The Catalyst requires the APP for this. Now you need to know which CC#s are required to control whatever. Note that the Catalyst requires TOGGLING CCs for switches. That means a CC VALUE of 127=ON; 0=OFF. Expression pedals controlling variable values such as VOLUME use a RANGE of VALUES which can be set anywhere between 0-127, typically 0-127.

I am running my HD500x to my Catalyst 200 using the 4 cable method which works great, I also plugged in a MIDI cable to the out\thru on the HD500x to the MIDI in on the catalyst but I'm having issues getting the two units to communicate after using the MIDI mapping guide from each unit. Im wondering if the HD500x MIDI is just to out dated to be compatible?

After checking Piezo for a dead A string, checking on Workbench that the string volume is set to max, switched piezo's over in the trem wiring, checked continuity from the A string piezo to the DSP board, I've concluded that I have a dead channel. Any tips on finding replacement electronics/DSP board? I could keep a lookout for a damaged Variax that needs repair, so I'll do an eBay search. Any other ideas?

Hi, O.K. I'm back here again to confirm - Yes, my Helix Floor does have Firmware Version 3.71.0 - a7e2585 installed, and the 3rd knob from the left actually does work properly in the Global Settings. Try this first to Reset the Globals to Factory: - Open the Global Settings Menu, then Press the ACTION Button. Now Press Knob 1 "Factory Settings" and when the dialogue appears Press Knob 6 "OK". I will state once again - When weirdness and unexplained things start to happen, perform a Factory Reset on your device. Make a backup of all the presets and settings on your hardware before doing the reset. If this doesn’t cure the problem, you could try re-flashing the Firmware. Hope this helps/makes sense.