patdixon

After years of trying to make a guitar (tube) amp work as a stage monitor I finally joined the 21st century (frfr monitor) & cannot believe the difference. When I first got the Helix I used a channel switching amp (clean / dist) straight in, then 4CM (fought the noise) but Friday gigs going straight from work forced me to downsize; started using amp/cab sims to FOH, 1/4" to a Fender Pro Junior because it's small and simple; one vol, tone knob. Never could really get it to sound right, even after using a split block with parametric EQ to notch out the offending frequencies. I also tried: Blues Jr Marshall (straight in & return) Mesa Boogie " " " Blackstar EL34 10W single ended I thought what the heck, for $250 I got a small (8" with a tweeter horn) floor monitor thing and I'm blown away. Everytime I get a new amp I always break in the speaker with two things, Allman Bros Live at the Fillmore and Steely Dan Aja. When I started the Aja CD I couldn't believe my ears - it sounded better than my Stereo! So then I plugged in and played clean then hard stuff- Deacon Blues to Mississippi Queen both sounded amazing, and I haven't even considered mic/line level or EQ! Some of our songs require controlled feedback- that works too! Wish I'd done this years ago. At 66 in a cover band this simplifies my life... TL/DR: Try an FRFR monitor for stage wash if using a "real" amp doesn't work sonically. I've been blessed with some really great amps at home but for Helix this is a game changer.

Thank you Silverhead- this was 100% User error. As you said I updated Line 6 Updater but not HX Edit beforehand. After doing the update instructions it's fine & I've restored from the backup. In my defense I got a migraine before I started so I should've just waited for a (not) rainy day. I aplogize.

As far as I know I've done everything right - HX LT less than a year old, was running 3.15 no problem. Tried to update to 3.50 & looked fine until the end now HX Edit doesn't recognize the device & the display shows the status in Title. HX Edit & Updater latest versions AFAIK. I know that I can do a Factory Reset if necesary (backed up beforhand) but would rather not. Anyone have an idea what I did wrong or what I should do? Thanks,

I got an answer yesterday - he told me to take it to a service center. I bought another one (I'll use this one as a backup using return 1 in). I always thought I'd need a good backup so even though an expensive option I think it's the best one, since I diagnosed it past the input jack. I get why they don't share prints but I could've fixed it with one. I appreciate all the help & responses.

Thank you Silverhead. It's been three days with no answer and I know they're probably backed up but I tried to leave no stone unturned as it were before I gave up.

Maybe a silly question, but is there any chance that I could've accidentally turned the gtr input off (global commands, etc) and that it would transfer over when I did the restore from backup? I don't think so- I've scoured both HX Edit Pilot's guide & LT User manual and I can't find a way to turn it off (or even change from "multi input to gtr only). Just making sure- I don't want to buy a new one or try to fix the old one if it's just a switch turned off. FWIW I put a 1K waveform into the gtr jack and with a scope I can see the sine wave at the tip output connection, then through the first coil. That's as far as I can go without a print. Don't believe it's a bad jack. Thanks,

Updated to 3.15 / backed up then factory reset - good news: all successful, bad news: still no guitar input signal. I've opened a support ticket.

Thanks. Nothing obvious inside; I'll try a reset before replacing the input jack (doesn't appear to be faulty).

LT version 3.01 - I've never had a problem in 4 years. Last night before sound check I went to tune my guitars & no signal through the tuner or anywahere else. Did the usual process of elimination stuff (cables, power down/unplug) etc. nothing. Ended up using my old X3L that I always carry as a backup which wasn't pretty. When I got home I tried using a return block and that worked so it smells like hardware or an input block bug. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks

Just noticed a small (~1/2") crack in the corner of the display. Have no idea when or how it happened. I'm pretty handy with electronics; already replaced FS 10 so I understand esd issues, have the right tools, etc. Since it's the weekend L6 won't respond - Does anyone know if I can get a replacement or do I have to send it to L6? I have nice gigs (wedding, private party) the next two weekends, then through July so I really can't do without it. I know I could take it to an authorized SC near me but don't want to unless no other option. Ideas? Thanks,

Is there a good way to search for the best channel on a G series? Getting dropouts due to high WiFi traffic. Can’t use RF2 because the other guitar player has an older unit set to RF1.

This happened to me yesterday- got a Marshall amp for Christmas & thought I'd see what it sounded like with my LT- horrible noise before playing the first note. Was baffled at first then realized I'd left the USB hooked up to the PC since doing the 3.01 update. Noise instantly went away. I hope no one returns a unit or piece of other gear because of this- probably often over looked.

I know this has come up many times; I understand the situation but need some advice. Just got a new G50 yesterday & used for the first time last night. Horrible, unacceptable dropouts even right on top of the receiver. Band setup: Other gtr player uses an older G50 (I assume RF1) Bassist uses a newer G10 Wireless dongles on multiple light trees Vocalist uses a Shure wireless mic We all use wireless in ears FOH guy uses a wireless iPad controller My gut says return the unit & go wired but if reverting to RF1 fixes it I'll keep it. I know none of us have a crystal ball but given my situation what would you do? I can control what I do but not everything else. Thanks for any help.

I had the same issue - put a gate after the amp or at very least after any high gain stomps you have. Yes you have to negotiate levels & settings but that's all that worked for me. Good luck, hope you get it figured out.

I don't know for 100% sure but I suspect the switch itself is the culprit here. Specifically contact bounce of the switch (in the old days we fixed this issue with a flipflop, a circuit that prevented it). The only way to prove it is to replace the switch- Line 6 suggested I take it to a local shop which I declined to do. In a couple of months my LT will be out of warranty & then I'll replace FS10. In my case moving all assignments away from that switch fixed the problem, but of course I can't use that switch right now. Try moving (hold the offending FS button & another unused one simultaneously- a screen will appear asking if you want to swap assignments- push OK). If the problem goes away it's most likely the switch. One poster said to hold down the switch while turning- haven't tried that but it's a temporary fix at best. If you have time to be without it & are still under warranty open up a ticket.