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Found 106 results

  1. Hi guys, does anybody have problems with high pitched background noise since the latest update ?
  2. At my gig Saturday night there was excessive electronic noise only when the loops played back? I thought it might be bad power at the venue? Ideas?
  3. I fired up the POD X3 yesterday and the white noise was just too much. I don't know how to deal with it because I've never done this before. If anyone has encountered or dealt with these symptoms, it would really help me if you could give me some advice. The white noise was very bad, even when I tried to connect the microphone and guitar separately. I was connected to my PC at the time, so I recorded with DAW software and the white noise was brilliantly mainstreamed. (Both the microphone and guitar.) I thought it might be due to the connection to the PC, so I started up the POD X3 with the connection between the POD X3 and the PC disconnected and away from the PC and monitor, and the white noise was terrible even in that state. Incidentally, I recorded with a POD X3 with a guitar and microphone and with DAW software between February and April of this year, and when I checked yesterday, there was no white noise at all in the recordings from that time. If anyone knows what causes these and how to remedy the white noise, it would be really helpful to have some advice. (The white noise is terrible, but the guitars and microphones sound normal. Also, I tried changing the headphones to different ones but no change.) Thank you!
  4. I'm getting some bit of weird noise with high gain amps, where it's humming if I'm not touching any metal part of the guitar, but goes away as soon as I touch the strings or bridge. I'm using headphone out to stereo amp & speakers, and just a guitar in cable... Getting the same with multiple guitars, and what's strange is that it does it even with humbuckers. It's almost like if there was a ground loop... Sure, noise gate does help, but it doesn't feel quite normal that I'm getting that much 'electrical' noise for no apparent reason... Any idea what could be causing it and is anyone getting the same thing?
  5. Hi Guys. Ive had a UX1 since pod farm 1.0 maybe 13 years ago at a guess. I recently tried to start using plugins in reaper with IRs and also standalone Amp sims like Cali Suite by Neural DSP using my UX1 as the interface. But I've run into some crazy electrical noise I've never had before on both of these am sims with IRs loaders builtnit. I normal using podfarm for scratch tracks. I've tried the usual changing cables etc. But I cant figure out where its coming from so I am wondering if is possibly the UX1 itself. Also Is it possible for these super old interfaces to run IR based sounds? Just wondering as if not its about time I bought an upgrade. Asside from my PC components (PC is a pc specialist build) im not sure what else it could be so I am hoping y'all have some ideas? I can supply samples if needed. Much appreciated!
  6. Alright so a bit of backstory. I got my hx stomp back in March, everything was fine until it started freezing up on me and when it froze I can’t switch patches. This would’ve been bad because my band has tons of different patches needed to play a set. Wasn’t a problem though because line 6 took care of me, I sent it back pre paid shipping, and they sent me a new one about 2 weeks later. Completely free, and since then it’s been great, no issues, it’s basically my amp and everything. Until today. I’ve been troubleshooting for awhile now and it has to be the hx stomp. Basically my cab just has a ton of static right now and noise. It’s so loud I can’t even hear my guitar over it. It’s never been like that. I tested all different cables, running straight into my power amp and checked everything, but every time I plug back into the hx stomp it gives off the noise. So I tried different guitars, cables, and in every type of configuration but still nothing. I tried changing wall outlets to see if that helped but nope. The only thing I haven’t done is update it to 2.8 but I’ve seen many reports of it breaking the helix so I’m waiting on that. Any help to figure this out is appreciated.
  7. Hi, I just recently move to PC from Mac, and when I tried connecting my HX stomp to the PC it created this static noise that I have attached. It doesn't matter where I plug the usb cable, front and back panel or USB hub, the result is the same. This problem doesn't happen when I connected it to my Macbook so I guess that maybe I connected something wrong inside the computer or some electrical problem. If anyone can Identify the source of the problem that would be very appreciated, thank you. HX USB NOISE.mp3
  8. Hi! I've recently bought a Helix Lt and I'm trying to make some settings, but I'm finding something curious in every one I made. I tried with Line6 Badonk amp + cab but when I palm mute I'm hearing a strange noise on the background while the volume is going down and then I added a noise gate, but still hearing that. Then, I tried with Archetype Lead and Revv Gen Red/Purple or even a Mandarin 80 and the noise is still there... The only way I've found to manage the noise is setting up a Hard Gate but it cuts the sound a lot... any idea? I let you here a clip that I recorded to show the problem: SoundCloud - Noise (recorded with Guitar direct to Helix LT, with input noise gate at Threshold -48dB, decay 10ms, Guitar In-Z Auto + Scream 808 with 0 gain, 6.5 tone, 10 level and Archetype Lead stock settings + Cali V30)
  9. Hello all, been struggling with this for quite sometime. Thanks for the help in advance. Setup is simple: Desktop connected via USB to POD. POD connected via 1/4" outs to JBL LSR305 studio monitors. I get an annoying electrical noise that is from my PC (it fluctuates when I move the mouse or start applications/games.) It also occurs regardless of the POD unit being on or off, only depends on the monitors being on and all connections in place back to the PC. When I use the XLR outs to the monitor the signal is clean again, but, using the XLR outs i understand I need to switch my monitor to the +4dbU setting. Unfortunately, this makes the volume very low (about 25% of what the monitors can do at the max.) When keeping them on the -10dbV setting, the volume is better, but clipping starts to happen. I also have a power conditioner from Furman, and have tried plugging everything into different outlets, same outlets, I even changed the Power Supply on my PC. No luck lol. Hopefully someone has another idea. Thanks again! -Dan
  10. Hi, I'm in doubt of buying Helix Native. I used the trial version for a week now and I love the sounds. I only just can't seem to get rid of a high noise level in hi-gain sounds. I already searched this forum and watched youtube video's for help on this topic. I have made a recording with a comparisation of my Helix Floor board and the Native plug-in. I made sure that the settings in both Native and Helix Floor are the same. In the recording I used the signal: input > Scream 808 > Archetype Lead The recording is made in Cubase, via a Steinberg CI2 with Hi-Z and real low input gain. In Helix Native the input meter stays under -12 dB. In the recording you hear: 0:00 - 0:17 > Helix Native 0:18 - 0:34 > Helix Floor 0:34 - 0:35 > Helix Native background noise without playing 0:36 - 0:37 > Helix Floor background noise without playing I'm might still do something wrong, it doesn't seem normal Helix Native gives so much background noise compared to the Floorboard. I still have 6 days of Trial version left. Hopefully any of you guys can help me with the noise-problem so I get convinced in buying a copy of Native. Test Native vs Helix Floor.mp3
  11. Hi everyone. I'm using the following setup: Guitar to helix, 4 cable method to Carvin Legacy VL300 amp, amp to Carvin Legacy 412 cab, and xlr outputs to mixer then stereo cabs. I'm also feeding a stereo loop pedal via sends 3 and 4. So: Guitar -> Helix guitar in -> Helix Send 1 -> Amp In -> Amp Send -> Helix Return 1 -> Helix Send 2 -> Amp Return (i use the send 2 instead of the 1/4" out because this way the volume is not affected by the helix volume knob). Also: Helix Xlr Outs to mixer, and Sends 3 and 4 to Loop Pedal, then mixer. You can see the scheme in the picture Problem is, when i plug the guitar straight to the amp, there's no noise, no hum, everything clear on all chanels. When i plug the guitar to helix straight to mixer, with amp simulations, no noise, no hum, everything clear. When i use the 4CM, lots of noise. You can hear it in the video. first guitar straight to amp. then plug the guitar to helix guitar in, and the remaining 3 cables. And you'll hear the diference... https://youtu.be/D6eNThp-BkM Already tried: -change all the cables, audio and power. -plug the power to diferente places, then same place. -change the outs from line to instrument, and vice-versa. Nothing works. Any guesses??
  12. In my case on Helix, If I turn the phone volume near 3oclock degree to maximum, I can listen the noise. I did it with no connection on any devices, jack, amp blabla anything. I turn off every fx inside the preset and make the input volume to 0db(It means I check it with no input). However without all my effort, I still can listen the noise. I check the headphones and connecting jacks but no problems are found. Is it only happen to me or happen to every helix devices?
  13. Hey all, My Helix is up to date, and I like pretty much everything about it...except the noise! I have a completely line 6 setup for live applications. M20d mixer, stagesource speakers... This rig was dead silent until Helix showed up. My HD500 and HD500X were both SILENT. Helix, even when turned down completely, introduces hiss throughout the system, mains and monitors. Mute the Helix channel on the mixer? Silence. It doesn't matter which outputs I am using on Helx, they are all equally hissy. Models have no affect on the amount of hiss. Noise gate fully engaged, still hiss. In other words, it's purely the Helix outputs. What is the problem here?!
  14. Well, if Guitar Center won't take back my G10, maybe Line 6 will.... Big fan of Line 6 products in general, but this is simply unacceptable. You guys needed to do more testing with various guitars before releasing this product. I am guessing here, but it seems that active electronics in acoustic guitars that use BRAIDED cables for the pickups have issues with interference. It's bad. It's high-frequency, digital-sounding noise and it's not anywhere near "typical" or tolerable. I have an Emerald X-20 acoustic. Originally equipped with a B-Band A3T system. My G10 worked just great with it, however I had quality issues with the system, so B-Band sent me a replacement. The new pickup design included a braided shield over the pickup cable. This is when the noise started with the G10. Using a guitar cable, the noise went away. After having yet more quality issues with B-Band (and Emerald quit using them as a supplier), I had Emerald install their updated LR Baggs Element system. This, too, has a braided pickup cable. And the noise is even worse than before. The guitar is dead silent when using a normal cable. Yes, I've tried the mono-to-mono adapter trick. No relief from the noise. In addition, this new LR Baggs system seems to suffer from the "reverse polarity" issue, whereby the system won't even work at all when plugged directly into the guitar. It's been more than 45 days, but I'm going to see if Guitar Center will take this thing back. It's simply not worth the hassle. For whatever reason, my 15-year old Yamaha (yes, it has an active preamp) works fine with the G10. But I simply cannot accept the noise coming from the Emerald, and it's not the guitar's fault. Any solutions before I return this inferior product, Line 6 people???
  15. I have a G10 to a Helix, running into a Powercab Plus with Line 6 Link without issue. I also have Helix running XLR stereo out to a Focusrite Scarlett 18/20. None of this has any issue. I added a Fender Rumbler 25 to practice Bass. Hooked it up with the 1/4" output. Now I hear this computer like hiss that rolls in and out. but just on that amp. I've unhooked EVERYTHING from the Helix and it's still there. Everything is hooked into the same power outlet for ground loop isolation. I've also tried another 1/4" cable and routed it a different way. G10 straight into in the Rumbler has no issues. Checked the 1/4" setting on the Helix and it's set to Instrument. I'm at a loss on what I can do to isolate it. Can I lift the ground wire on the 1/4" or do they make some sort of isolation device for 1/4" . This has to be between the Helix and Rumbler only. Please Help, Mike "
  16. Hi there ! Trying to use the HX Effect with my 2-channels amp. No problem with clean channel. No problem when using line6 HX effects internal distortion or OD amazing tone When I engage my amp lead channel, HX Effect cause some noise problems with the amp. - I know that gain must generate some noise - My amp is usually quiet - This is a groove tube amp with high gain capacity but I keep gain relatively low - Other setting WITHOUT HX effect with pedal in front that are not true bypass don't generate this noise - This noise is NOT 50hz hum ground-loop noise, single pups noise, but more shhhhhhhh kind of noise (noise of snake not happy with modern jazz) - When testing, I mute all the effects - The unit is plugged in front (I plan to use the FX loop when this issue is solved) - I compare bypass and engaged tone, Huge difference with noise when HX effect is in line - All the input/ouput are set to instrument level. Is there anybody having the same issue ? Do you think this is the classical noisy HF effects syndrome ?
  17. I'm experiencing terrible noises due to lack of clock sync between Reaper and Helix, used as an USB audio interface. I tried to set the same sample rate but the noises are still there in the recording. Can someone please help me fix this issue and explain me (like I'm a 5 y o kid) how to make the Helix the master and Reaper the slave? Thanks in advance!
  18. Hello there. I'm a UX2 user like 5 years, which i've been gifted by my uncle in USA. Once, i had not any problems, while i was using Windows 7 i suppose. Then in time, some problems started to occur. Biggest one was -and still is- that, all of a sudden sound is gone and i don't have any option but to restart my computer. Either playing a game or watching a video, listening to music, all of a sudden, bam! Sound is gone and nothing helps but a restart! And it also randomly happens again after a restart as well. I started to have this problem in Windows 7, had in 8 and now in 10 it still happens. I did not change any computer part since then (cpu, mobo etc.) Besides, i've not got a second problem, which freaks me out often. As before, during any playback, a loud "white noise-ish" distort occurs for a second or two, then playback continues. This happens quite randomly, sometimes twice in 10 seconds, sometimes once, sometimes never. I've tried every driver i can, the oldest and the newest ones, tried changing the buffer sizes, buffer lengths, depths etc. What's more interesting is, this problems do not happen for two or three weeks, and the week after, it's an absolute nightmare! It's like, as if it has something to do with the days of the months! I do not overclock, my system is all stable and not overheated during even the hardest gaming sessions. I'm quite fed up with this problem. One day, i'll break the hell out of this device and post the images as an ultimate solution for the people who have such problems as well.. Please, i beg you; please help me!
  19. Hello to the whole community. I have a noise problem when change the channel of my amplifier from the hx Effects. My amplifier is a Mesa Boogie Rectoverb 25. When I switch to the high gain channel from the hx effects a very annoying background noise is heard. I tried to reduce it with the noise gates of the hx efeccts but they do nothing. is this normal? thank you
  20. I tried out my Mesa Boogie TriAxis with 4CM and get an awful noise. We've gone through about twenty different troubleshooting ideas on the facebook group and haven't found a winner yet. Three solutions I was not yet able to try due to lack of availability: Isolated coupler Hum buster cable ISP Decimator Anyway, the TriAxis is a beast and sounds great regardless of the hum. I don't think I'll be taking it to any gigs like this, though.
  21. Hi there, first of all, happy new year to everyone. I'm having big issues with my Helix using it together with my tube amps. I got my Helix a few weeks ago, the plan was for it to replace my big a** FX rack. I wanted to use the Helix for FX only (in four cable method) while getting my base tone from my 3-Channel Tube Amp(s). That plan failed for now, because in the current state it's unusable. When connecting the Helix to my Amps, a giant noise floor gets added. It can be barely heard using the first (clean) channel of my amps, but when using the 3rd (high gain) channel of the amps, the noise is so loud it makes the setup almost unplayable. I have made a few tests in my home just now, with the following basic setup: A fresh, empty preset in Helix, all outputs set to instrument level, and a volume pedal block added before the output of path 1A. No volume control in the Helix, be it in the input of the path, volume pedal block, the output of the path, or the big knob has any influence of the level of the noise. Both stage amps I own show the same behaviour, so it is very unlikely to be a fault in one of the amps. Both amps are custom hand wired amps that I designed and built myself (before you ask, yes, I am qualified for that, and the amps are built to a very high standard, not some kind of botch jobs :) ), so no use asking for the amps' brand. Both amps have been on the road with me, playing reliably for the past years and working flawlessly with my, in terms of noise grounding etc. far more complex, rack system. Or so I thought... Anyway. I am beginning to suspect that my Helix unit is faulty. Before I go through the hassle of returning the unit I wanted to ask if anyone here maybe has had similar experiences running the Helix together with a high gain tube (pre-)amp. I have attached a sample of the noise. I quickly recorded it with my mobile, as I don't have a recording setup at home. In the sample you can hear the change in noise level when I plug the Helix into the amp's input jack. I held the mobile right in front of the speaker cabinet. First you hear some buzzing from the amp with nothing connected, then the click when I plug the guitar cable into the helix, and then I plug the other end of the cable into the amp's frontend. The amp was switched to its high gain channel, master volume set a little lower than stage volume. No guitar was connected to the input of Helix. As you can hear, the increase in noise is really huge. Any help or suggestions are highly appreciated, I'm really frustrated. Thanks, Nils Edit: deleted sound sample to avoid further confusion.
  22. Hello Line 6 Community! First time poster here. I've just made the jump from fractal to helix with a HX Stomp. In my first 2 days I am blown away at how great these tones are. I am looking to ditch both my AX8 and audio interface for the flexibility of the Stomp as a stand alone. So far, I can see I made the right choice. The only thing I am noticing is: Noise on high gain lead patches I love all the tones I'm getting from all the stock presets and also downloaded some Glen DeLuane presets. Both, have the high noise and uncontrollable feedback issue on the lead type patches. Is this just the nature of the Stomp or Helix in general or am I doing something wrong?
  23. I have the helix on a not so large room, with 2 tube amp on clean , in stereo, I am going from the helix to the amp from the left and right instrument cable output on the helix , NOT the 4 cables Method, and I have this electrical HUMM, that is quite common when you hook two tube amps, with a digital moduler in between, is not so loud , but for prolonged playing time, it builds up on the ear becoming very annoying . so far I tried the ground lift on the back and doesn't help, maybe anyone know a trick or a sort of buffer or a magic pedal that isolates the amps from the electrical current that is creating the noise?
  24. I just purchased the Line6 Helix HX effects pedalboard and i have noted that whenever high gain effects are selected (happens in almost all the FUZZ effects), there is a high volume, ambulance type of noise (coming and going) in the tempo that the tap led is blinking. If you lower the gain a lot, (really a lot) the noise goes away but the effect is useless at such low gain/volume. anyone with similar symptoms?
  25. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
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