geppert

I have the Head & Cab but I would think the combo on top of a cab would provide a nice combination of sonic attributes. Good thing you have the POD since adjusting the knobs from the top of the amp would be a P.I.T.A. if stacked.

TBone .... http://line6.com/dtv2update/

TBone ... once you get your head around this amp and find the tones you like, I think you will find it very satisfying. The 2.0 Firmware upgrade is a big deal and will provide a lot of benefits for the stand alone user especially for the ability to have 8 preamps (of your choice) resident instead of only 4. Plus the DT50 is a monster for volume. It does take a little work (and patience) to tame this beast. Let us know how you make out and how you like your amp once you bond with it more.

I have the DT25 head/cab and a pair of L3T's (for the PA). I messed around a bit with my EGtr, PODHD500 and the L3T's but I feel the better sound (for me at least) is from the DT25 Head and a couple cabs. I know a lot of folks like the FRFR approach but for me it is more frequency range than an electric guitar requires and I prefer the old fashioned grunge of a basic guitar amp pushed through some tubes. It is kind of like fishing off a yacht when all you really need is a little boat with an outboard. However that being said, for an "acoustic group" I have, the L3T's work perfect and we all play through them without guitar amps.

Martin ..... that is too complicated for me to understand ... LOL

I was experimenting for a while using the POD as a pure efx board (no amps selected) then switching between the two channels on the DT with the foot switch as it allows you to use the A channel's internal preamp as well as Channel B without having it coming from the POD (a little discovery I made). It was an interesting experiment and worked fine although I have gone back to using the preamps in the POD. I found that there is a sonic differential between the POD preamps and the DT's internal preamps. For a while, I also had the POD preamp model on a foot switch to disable it so it would then force the DT to go to Channel B and use one of the 4 the internal preamps as set. Another interesting experiment. I did all this mainly for comparison reasons when I first got the rig as I was exploring tonal options. Also, as you mentioned Martin, if the POD goes down you then have a way to foot switch between the two channels of the DT which would definitely be handy. Considering the relative low cost of a foot switch, I felt it was worth it to have around, plus I felt the little foot switch input jack on the the back was getting lonely ... lol.

Yes, but I am firm believer also that "sometimes "sh_t" happens for no reason" so hopefully that is the answer in this case, but I suspect you are right and it has some connection with the tubes ... however they will be replaced with new ones soon. I will follow up after a couple band rehearsals with a status report on the amp's health. We'll see where this goes.

UPDATE: Picked up the replacement line fuses. Put one in and put the old tubes back in as I don't have the new ones yet. EVERYTHING WORKS. Had a short rehearsal yesterday and amp was fine. Checked tube bias and it was right on the money. This is not to say it won't happen again and not to say it wasn't something tube related? Need a bit more time with the amp to see if it is stable. Will put new tubes in when they arrive. So, not sure why the original line fuse blew but at least I now know WHERE it is (lol) and I also know where to get the Tube Protection Fuses (ordered 5). I now have a small "spare fuse collection" for my L6 amps. I am very old school, I am used to fuses being located in fuse tubes on amps (similar to the tube protection fuse on the DT25). The line fuse integrated in the AC receptacle was a learning experience (I never thought to look there). Thanks to Radatats for showing the pix of that. I have now received a "modern line fuse location update" in my brain. This discussion saved me from sending the amp in for service, which I might ad, would have been a royal P.I.T.A., expensive, and time consuming. They probably would have replaced the fuse like I did, some short bench testing and then out the door. Wonder what THAT would have cost plus RT shipping etc.? I am going to guess a minimum of a couple hundred with taxes? I will update if anything happens with this amp in the near future. It has been rock solid since 2012 when I bought it. It was also nice to play through my old SV212 MKII again. I still really like that amp (except for the weight). I used a POD HD500 directly into the efx return on the back to bypass the front end. Sounded very sweet. I'll never sell it. Many thanks to all for responding on this thread. You are a great bunch of people here. Like the old saying goes .... "you can learn something new everyday".

OK .... here we go. (Line 6 Tech Support has yet to respond). The actual Tube Protection fuse I have in my DT25 (375mA/250V Slo Blo) is a LittelFuse 0313.375 Mouser Part # 576-0313.375MXP Manufacturer: LittelFuse Manufacturer Part Number: 0313.375MXP http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0313375MXP/?qs=OJFHm2hVE4H0c833ETykqA== The Bussmann MDL 3/8 is an equivalent. Mouser Part Number: 504-MDL-3/8 Manufacturer: Eaton Manufacturer Part Number: BK/MDL-3/8 http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BK-MDL-3-8/?qs=KOeOmFnJLTq0cGO5NIGsxA%3D%3D You can do a "comparison" on the Mouser site to see the specs side by side. Now we know. They can both be found on the Bay. Go get em tigers. Whew ...... I will update on the status of the amp once I replace the Line Fuse & tubes. ... and the current bets on the original problem that blew the Line Fuse are .... Tubes = 3 Xformer = 0 (Zap thought maybe?) BTW ... the tubes are Mesa's. Have been in about 1.5 years. Weekly rehearsals and about 12-16 gigs per year. So not out of line that one or both the power tubes pooched out to take the line fuse? I believe I read here on the forum that these EL84's run very hot in the DT25? Thanks to all for your help and suggestions on this thread.

OK ... so your bets lay as follows ... TUBES = 2 Xformer (or something else) = none?

Excellent Radatas ... thanks. It seems everybody has the line fuses. They are very common and the music store had them in stock (I got 4, still to pick up) .... the Tube Protection Fuse we are discussing of course is another matter. I have sent a detailed email to Mouser (Canada) including the amp spec for this fuse plus pix of the actual fuse itself so they can confirm exactly what product number it is ... then I order either from them or the eBay guy when we responds back (I sent him the same information as well). I am assuming that this fuse rarely blows or we would have had this discussion before this. It is a bit weird that is has been so difficult finding it but once I do, then all will know. I also asked Line 6 on my Support Ticket where to source this fuse ... waiting for them to reply. .... and Brazzy .... you can be ASSURED that I will order more than one ... lol !~! Last note: ... We no longer have Radio Shack in Canada, they sold out and became "The Source". I called the store in town about this 375mA fuse the guy said "no way, never seen anything under 1amp, try eBay, or Amazon" ... so there you go with that one. Last note really: ... I still don't know why the Line Fuse blew in the first place. I use a high quality AVR. I did order replacement tubes and I can put my EH's back in (which have very little milage) to test when I get the Line Fuses, but somehow I don't think it is a tube related issue? Like Zap said earlier, it could be a "transformer issue". We'll see soon enough.

I contacted the vendor and is seems that those fuses on eBay are NOT 375 ma but he is trying to find them so at least someone is on the case. Update: After checking into it further the Vendor confirmed that these were 375mA.

I believe the Tube Fuse in the DT25 is a Bussman MDL 3-8 ... and I have found some on eBay http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LOT-5-MDL-3-8-MDL3-8-BUSS-BUSSMANN-BUSSMAN-FUSE-250V-/400200784895?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d2dd35bff

Yes I am having a very difficult time finding them also. Still searching online. The actual fuse stamp says .375ma/250VP Back of amp says TO.375AL / 250V Slow Blow ​Since I have a Support Ticket open I have also asked them but not heard back yet (wanna bet they say "ask your certified service centre for them"?)

Mild follow up .... First ... thanks RP for the fuse info, much appreciated, and also the H15 tip (I thought so too). The local dealer has line fuses in stock so will pick them up when I go to town next (I live a bit remote). Also ordered a new set of tubes just in case. This event pretty much solidifies that I'll be keeping my SV MKII 212 for backup. I have always liked that amp. It is really great that you can plug the POD HD in the rear chassis insertion point and it is before the master volume (which isn't the case on the DT amps as the insertion is after the Mstr Vol). Also, this event is now pointing the finger at exactly where my options are for Line 6 out of warranty service .... which I have now found in my area. L&M has a new Service and Wharehouse Centre in Delta, BC but you have to send your amp there via a L&M store, you can't go direct (my understanding anyways) for those of us on the west coast of Canada. Does anyone have an online source for the 375ma / 250A - 30mm slow blow tube fuse?

Thanks Zap ... unfortunately I live remote and "taking it to the shop" is a pain in the lollipop, in fact we are still trying to find out where "the shop" is? Line 6's Authorized Service Centre site brought up 2 locations somewhat near me that have been out of business for over 5 years and the 3rd one I called didn't know if they could actually do "out of warranty service" ???? The Canadian distributor is still trying to answer my questions on this deal about service. So "the shop" in my case is a bit of an enigma at this point. I can do my own biasing no problemo. Line 6 Support says my series of DT25 is post the transformer problem (but of course it could be something else with this xformer). I will try the fuse replacement route first, then if it keeps on blowing them I'll send it in. Gotta try some other home remedies first. Sending it out will be both expensive and a loooooong wait I am sure. Good thing I still have my SV MKII 212.

Radatats ... YOU DA MAN ... although you did say this before, I just didn't get the deal with the power receptacle until I saw your pix .... DUH !!!! ... and now that I look again I see the fuse in the tube holder (which I thought was the Line Fuse) CLEARLY says "tube protection" ... I am an idiot. The fuse in the power receptacle was clearly blown. YAY ! Now to find the replacement. The receptacle fuse says T2AL250VP. It is quite small. What indication determines the physical size? I am assuming this is a 2A/250V slow blow? The Tube Fuse is large, says 375ma/250VP (not sure what the "P" means? and not sure what indicator determines the size? Can you guys enlighten on this?? Also, I noticed all 3 tubes have what I would call "heat stress" on their tops ... quite black inside, so I think it's time for replacement? Lastly, in my panic to see things more clearly I pulled two plugs from the bottom plate circuit board, the 3 prong plug can go into one of two sockets marked H15 120/240 and the other H16 100/220. My line voltage here is about 110-117 (Canada) so I am assuming the socket I need go back into is H15??? would one of you know?? Radatats ... again thanks ... Brazzy too.

I can't see anything like that on my DT25 circuit board around the tube socket locations (like your pix) or anywhere else?

stumblinman, on 05 Nov 2014 - 09:09 AM, said: There are two fuses on the back of the DT25. One in a round receptacle labeled tube protection, and another directly below the power plug. Can somebody tell me EXACTLY where to find the DT25 Tube Fuse? I can't for the life of me see it? 1) I know the Line Fuse is ok, (update, not true, the line fuse was blown) visually and continuity check. 2) I know that power is coming into the AC socket appropriately 3) I know the power switch is working (continuity check) I have no power light. The amp is dead as a door nail (technical term). L6 Support Ticket says it has to come in for repair. It is post the "power transformer issue" that previous DT25's were experiencing (i.e.: no recall warranty). I am thinking that the Tube Fuse (if I can find it) will be my last thing to investigate before sending it in? Everything inside the amp chassis looks pristine. No visual evidence of anything burned. It feels like a fuse issue and I am not sure the Tube Fuse would cause the entire amp to go out ... but .......

Thanks .... will have another look inside today. One would think with a power light failure that it would be the line fuse, but not the case here.

Amp is dead. No AC Power light. Checked line fuse and it is ok, (update, what I checked was NOT the line fuse it was the Tube Protection Fuse, the Line Fuse in the AC socket was blown), no visual sign of damage and continuity. Took chassis out of box, took bottom plate off and pulled out slightly (did not disconnect any plugs). Nothing inside looks burned. No smell. Amp looks fine inside from what I can see. Not sure if there are any other fuses inside I can check on my own? Does it need to come in for repair? Not sure if it falls under the power transformer recall ??? Opened support ticket and waiting for reply. Just wonder if the users here have any suggestions other than that?

I echo what RicStudio said. I've had mine for about 3 years (DT25 Head & 2 Cabs). I did replace the original tubes with Mesa's. Still going strong. I would just get a set of replacement tubes right out of the gate when you buy the amp and either put them in or keep as spares. You WILL need to replace them at some point and Murphy's Law will likely have them fail at a gig. In fact, I prefer to buy 4 matched at a time then I have a great backup system. The amp is stunning once "dialed in" as Ric said, but it takes some work (and patience) to get there. Remember that the POD HD's are designed to marry with the DT amps. This is where the magic is. I would also say that I am a believer in a Line Conditioner/AVR for these DT amps. I have never had a problem with mine and I attribute it (at least in my case) to the power conditioner. I use the TrippLite 1200 as recommended buy one of the "old salts" here. If you get yourself a DT amp, let us know how it goes.

I would suggest that for "small to medium clubs" the DT25 would work very well .... better than your SIV75. It does for me. I have never felt the need for the DT50. The DT amps are a different beast than the Spider IV series primarily due to their tube power sections. I like tubes when they bend and that is what the DT's are designed for, digital modelling up front, tube back ends to push it out. I rarely get my DT master up past 12 o'clock but I am working on it <grin>. Hopefully some others here will chime in on this to provide some additional perspectives for you? The big key is the integration of the POD500(x) with the DT. They are made for each other ... and .... since you own the POD .... it is definitely a finger pointing in a specific direction for a power amp choice. I have a SIV120, a SV212MKII and a DT25. I use the DT25 all the time except the SIV120 I use exclusively at home for practice. The SV212 (which I also really respect) is a spare and backup. I do like that amp, but the Hd500 and the DT25 are my mainstay,

Phil, I have a DT25 Head & Cab (actually 2 cabs) plus an HD500. I love this digitally integrated system. There is a learning curve for sure and you must be patient initially to understand it and find the tones you like. The HD500(x) really completes the DT amps imho. They are made for each other ... so in your case it is a no brainer to at least give the DT's some very serious consideration. Buy one from a dealer who has a 30 day money back guarantee. That way you can try it and return it if it doesn't work for you. Remember on thing, the DT50 is a powerful LOUD beast. I find the DT25 is more than adequate for what I do and the best thing is that I can crunch the tubes without being insanely loud. I prefer the Head & Cab as it splits the weight up and I prefer the sound of a closed back cab to an open back combo. I haven't had any issues yet either, but I am a religious believer in a power conditioner (such as the Tripp Lite 1200) for these amps. Palico is correct about you having the potential (with a DT amp) to create the "Dream Rig". Good luck with your search.

The only "art of lifting" I know is to hire somebody else to do it.