geppert

I have a SV212 MKII and I have to tell you it is $#@% heavy. I would concur with AquaRegia that you would probably be just fine with the 1x12. You may find for a used amp you "might" need to change the tubes for best performance and of course tweek the bias if you do so. I have since become a DT25 Head/Cab convert and the MKII is a backup amp but it still sounds killer. Great amps both.

I think these SV MKII's are wonderful amps. With the right tweeking they sound great. I predict they will be re-discovered in the future (not too distant I hope) and be sought after IMHO. I have a SV MKII 212 and still love it, although I have switched over to a DT25 (love it a bit more) I will never sell the SV.

Congrats on your DT25 purchase. It will work better with the POD HD than the SV. They are designed to work together as Matt Brown pointed out where the HD500 can control the output configuration of the DT amp. No other amp on the market (as far as I know) can do what the DT amps do especially when connected to a POD 500 via the Line 6 Link. The differential between Head/Cab vs Combo is a personal choice. The cab will provide a tighter bass response generally speaking and you split the weight up into two components, which as you get older, is something to be appreciated. Also I prefer the controls to be on front of the amp rather than on top. Like most things (unless you have a good memory) you would need to try both DT variants side by side to appreciate the difference between the two models. Lastly, and probably the most important part, the head/cab just looks way cooler. A moot point if you have already bought one or the other at this point.

I own a SV 212 MKII and a DT25 Head/Cab (with HD500). Both are great amps but the DT25 is by far the better IMHO. I do prefer the head/cab over a combo. Splits up the weight and I prefer the sound over a combo. I keep the SV as a spare and for friends when they come over. I still think it is an awesome amp. I get more than enough volume out of the DT25 for the gigs I do. The SV212 is really $#@ heavy. I don't like taking it out of the house. I am sure some others will chime in on this?

Psarkissian .... we all appreciate you being here.

After a year with the L3T's, the bags have done a great job of keeping them safe and dent free. Have no regrets purchasing the bags. Answering the question of my own thread would be ... "well worth it" if you want to keep their value strong for resale. They would be pretty scratched, maybe some broken knobs, and maybe some dents without the bags. Glad I did it a year ago since the L3T's now cost 23% more and the L3T bags are 31% more .... Canadian prices. I regret we didn't get at least one L3S. The L3S are more expensive than the L3T's by $300 ea .... !!!! We use an analog mixer. Couldn't afford the M20d up front. Everybody around us agrees the L3T's sound great. No regrets. I do agree that for the price they are charging for the speakers they should come with bags. However, I just bought a new ~1K Fender Tele that comes with no case or gig bag just a beautiful cardboard shipping box .... lol. These companies are nickel and diming us to death.

Deo33 ... Agreed that TOP I is very quiet compared to the others. I discovered that increasing the Gain doesn't grunge the Twin up too much so I ran the channel volume full out and set the gain up to 2-3+ o'clock to accomplish some better volume equilibrium. See if that might work for you at all? If you are using TOP 1 for clean tones against any of the other TOPs for grunge you will have to turn the Channel Vol down on the grunge's to equate. Just the way it is with this amp. That all being said, this is one great amp once you get your head around it imho. I ended up switching to one of the Brit models (sorry, don't have my HD500 in front of me but I think it is the P75) for clean tones. I prefer it over the Twin, plus it has more overall gain and matches better to the grungier tones for volume equality.

Space ... so you use TRS (shorting the sleeve to ground) as a preference over TS jacks? The advantage being ... ???

I also have a SV MKII 212 and I think it is a great amp. My only complaint is the weight.

Does the robo tuner work well or no? Can you turn it off??

Joe V ... you got it right. What a disaster in a music store with those amps and having people turn that master volume up then changing the "Model Presets" ... OUCH ??? I am sure the music retailers hated the SV amps for that reason. Whenever ANYBODY plays through my SV 212 MKII I am right on them about the Master Volume level. What is REALLY cool though, is that a keyboard player for instance, can just go into the back efx return and use the SV as a true clean power amp. Works perfect. Master Volume and Presence are all that will work at that point. That is a feature I wish they had on the DT's.

Having gone through all this ..... and From My thread below .... http://line6.com/support/topic/10327-dt25-head-dead/ The tube protection fuse is the tough one to find ... the line fuse is pretty much available at any guitar shop. The actual Tube Protection fuse I have in my DT25 (375mA/250V Slo Blo) is a LittelFuse 0313.375 Mouser Part # 576-0313.375MXP Manufacturer: LittelFuse Manufacturer Part Number: 0313.375MXP http://ca.mouser.com...4H0c833ETykqA== The Bussmann MDL 3/8 is an equivalent. Mouser Part Number: 504-MDL-3/8 Manufacturer: Eaton Manufacturer Part Number: BK/MDL-3/8 http://ca.mouser.com...Tq0cGO5NIGsxA==

A bit late but I also have the DT25 Head & 2 cabs. Although as STPLE said "there is no wrong answer" I much prefer the closed back cab and splitting up the weight .... plus (and this may the most important part) ..... the Head / Cab just looks so much cooler .... lol ! I think you will be happy with your decision. I do like stacking the two cabs with the head. It puts it up at shoulder height for easy tweeking rather than bending down to adjust the POD. Let us know how you like it once you have had the chance to play for a while.

I love my SV 212 MKII .... except when I have to lift it ... lol !!

I can't comment on alternatives but I have a DT25 head and 2 Line 6 DT25 cabs (with beam blockers) and I quite like them. I do find the stock DT25 cabs to be quite "directional" so that's why the beam blockers .... which btw, solved the problem perfectly for me. I would add that when the two cabs are stacked, it puts the head right at shoulder height which I also like.

DarrellM5, Sorry to hear about your DT. Good thing it is under warranty. In my case, they (support ticket) said I had to send it in (out of warranty), but through persistence (as I indicated in my thread) I was lucky to get it working again. I suspect in your case it may still be tube related, are your old tubes totally done? If not, you can try putting them back in for a test as an alternative to the new tubes you bought. When I buy new power tubes I always get a matched set of 4. That way I have two spares. It is totally possible however that the problem is something else? The other thing I would do (if you haven't already) is to pull the chassis out completely and give it a good eye inspection for anything that looks burnt inside (in my case it looked pristine which is why I kept trying to get it working on my own). Be CAREFUL not to touch any components inside as you could SERIOUSLY hurt yourself. You mentioned a "burnt smell" so maybe something inside has fried in which case obviously a warranty repair is required. If however, you look inside and nothing appears to be burnt, then maybe it is yet another tube related issue? In my case I never blew the tube fuse only the line fuse. If you are not comfortable pulling the chassis then by all means just send it in. You should be receiving an RA number from Line 6 on that support ticket for warranty returns. Be prepared for wait on that repair. I think however, since it is still under warranty and you have a spare amp to use, I'd be inclined to send it in if that is what your support ticket recommends. A good reason to have a spare amp as I indicated about my SV212 MKII. Good luck ... and keep us informed about the outcome of your journey especially if it needs warranty repair and what the problem was.

I was in the same boat too. A very thin putty knife can be wedged in there to loosen things up. It can be difficult to get that amp out especially without damaging the Tolex. When you want to pick up a hammer out of frustration .... it's time to stop ... lol.

Frac, This is a cut and paste from Jens email ... and all he said. .... The mod is $150 and can only be installed by me. It requires modding the PCB. You would have to send the amp to me.

I inquired about this Mod. Jens was very quick and pleasant with his reply. It HAS to be done by him at his location in LA, California, NOT DIY. For me in Canada, with currency exchange rates being at an almost historic high, it would have been way too expensive (at least for me) with shipping and mod cost. He quoted $150 USD for the mod FYI. If I was living in or around LA, I would have given it some serious consideration, especially after Keith's comments above. Even though I have switched to the DT25, I still love my SV 212 MKII (except for the weight). I think they are great amps.

Russgoos ..... yes that twin stacked rig looks awesome. You've git the best of Line 6 there. Thanks for letting us know about your results.

Colonel, I've never been one for open back cabs (i.e.: combos) and I like to split the weight up with a head and cab. However that being said, (and given the resources to do it), two DT25 combos with two 12" extension cabs (one for each combo) would likely sound quite awesome. Also, stacking the two cabs (in my case) really looks nice and it puts the head up at shoulder height .... oops ... another reason I don't like the combo since having it at shoulder height means you can't see the dials on top of the amp (lol). Yes a moot point if you have a pod I know, I but I still like to turn to the amp to make quick tone tweaks (old habit) so having the head on top of two cabs works perfect for me. I'd love to have a duplicate of that rig for stereo etc., but then "how much gear do I want to haul around" ... lol ... I'd need a roadie. Another head for me would put things back to one cab per amp but I think (for my needs) it would work nicely.

The Colonel is right on the money. I run an HD500 and a DT25 head with 2 x D112 extension cabs (1 x 12" ea with beam blockers), this works killer (technical term) for me. I would love to have another head for stereo efx and dual amp models ..... someday I think it will happen. Adding a D112 Cab to your DT25 combo might be a good ticket for you? These DT's are good amps but it takes some "tweeking" get their magic out.

Russgoos, You may have a tough time finding those 375ma fuses for the DT 25 Tubes? I listed them a few messages back in this thread (2 manufacturers). I found a source for them on eBay.

Final Update, Just want to wrap this up. After the Line Fuse was replaced and bias checked/adjusted on the tubes, the amp worked again perfectly and has continued to do so with no stutters. I have no idea why the fuse blew originally but I am thinking it might have been a "tube fart" (technical term) of some sort? At least I now have a complete set of fuses for all my L6 gear and know where to get those darn tube fuses for the DT25. Lastly, this little experience made me get my SV212 MKII out again and I still enjoy that amp. It is a great backup to have and I have no inclination to sell it. However, my back goes into a panic attack every time I have to take it somewhere and "power lift" it up on the tailgate of my truck. My back really prefers the DT25 Head/Cab combination. I have actually tried running the two amps together (I have a A/B-Y switch) .... HUGE sound with 2 x DT25 112 cabs plus the open back 2 x 12 combo. I can be ONE LOUDER than anybody else in the band, which makes me king ... !~!~!~~ Thanks to all who responded to this thread.

Yanitzch... Yes the audio output from TOP 1 (Fender Amp) is definitely lower than the others HOWEVER, I noticed that increasing the GAIN for TOP 1 does not significantly increase preamp distortion like it does with other amp models .... so, try having the GAIN up well past 1 o'clock and see if you get a better volume structure. It worked for me. I do like the Fender Amp models (primarily the Twin) and I run them with a significantly higher Gain setting than with other models to compensate for the relative gain differential. The sound is still very clean. What you can also try as an experiment for TOP 1, is to put the Gain all the way up full, lower the Channel Volume so you are not blasting yourself, play some strong chords (with guitar up full) and see if the sound is still clean enough for you, if not, back the Gain down a bit (raising the Channel Vol to compensate) until you find the sweet spot where the Gain setting is still providing the clean tone of a Fender Amp. When you're there, you will probably find the Gain to be past 1 0'clock somewhere which in some of the other amp models will definitely be adding grunge, but not with the Fender amp (or so I've found anyways). Then crank the channel volume up as much as you want (even full out) then the master volume to taste. Once there, ALL the other amp models need to be adjusted (usually via their channel volume) to roughly match that Fender Amp (TOP 1). Then you have a relative comparative gain stage for the other 3 presets. I usually run the Fender Gain very high, and the Fender Channel Volume full up for TOP 1 with Master Vol to taste. I also have a POD 500 and run it the same as described above for the Fender Amp Model into my DT25 via L6 Link. Give it a try, see what happens. Hope this helps you out a a bit?