codamedia

Also check the input level in Native itself... you will want the meter to hover around -18db for Native to react similar to the hardware (Helix).

I really like the stock 2204 on the Helix... I've played many JCM800's in the 80's and they all sounded similar, yet different, IMO.... when someone claims this model isn't authentic what they are really saying is "it isn't authentic compared to the one I had". It is definitely the JCM800 flavor.

Myself? I'd goose the front end of the AC30 with a boost. AC30's really come to life when they are hit hard. This will result in a lower lifespan of the tube in V1 on the AC30.... but not by much, and it is worth it. To compensate for the added volume... place a GAIN block in the path that sits in the loop of the AC30, and use that block to compensate (attenuate) the volume. Just put both the BOOST and GAIN on the same footswitch. The result is a "goosed AC30" (added gain) that is volume compensated by the GAIN block later. If you would rather just use an overdrive... I find the Tee-mah (TIMMY) to be a great match for any amp. That's my go-to.

Place a SEND directly before the CAB simulation. Set the SEND to "instrument level" and connect it to an amp. Anything after the send will not make it to the amp... so you might need to re-work the presets a little. Another option (what I do) is use a small FRFR on stage for some stage volume. This gets the exact same feed as the FOH/IEM/Monitors... I leave that connected to the BIG VOLUME so I can dial in whatever amount of FRFR (stage volume) I want without effecting the FOH or Monitors.

A DI naturally isolates the unit from the FOH... you don't need something that claims to be a Line Isolator, any quality passive DI is already doing that. If you simply use a TRS > XLR cable as mentioned in the above posts, you will not be isolated but it is designed to work that way. If you go the TRS > XLR route be aware of Phantom Power at the console. The Helix XLR's do not like phantom power, and I believe the STOMP behaves the same when you use the TRS connectors. Phantom does not hurt the unit, but it "can" hurt the tone. FWIW... I like to keep my Helix isolated from the FOH for worry free connections... I use a Passive Radial JDI that is permanently mounted with my Helix.

I'd lean more toward the "hotone loudster" as the problem than I would the Helix. If you have access to another power amp option.... try that and see if the problem still exists.

As someone who has used both... there are conditions where I preferred the scribbles, there are conditions where I preferred "performance view". The floor has the same screen as the LT... and the scribbles. Asking for it to do BOTH is not unreasonable - IMO. FWIW... My overall preference leans to "performance view"... it suits my work flow perfectly. Aside from editing, the signal flow view does nothing for me.... yet it consumes that beautiful screen on the Helix Floor at all times :)

LINE 6 EDIT was for the XT series.... not the HD's. HD Edit is what you need.... follow the link @phil_m posted.

The FULL Brit 2204 includes the power amp tubes, the Brit 2204 PRE-AMP is just the preamp section. The original JMP-1 was just a pre-amp... no power amp tubes :) That's why I believe a "pre-amp" model would be better than a "full model". Based on your X3 Setup.... try loading the following Stomp Distortion: Legacy > Chandler Tube Driver Amp: 2204 Pre-Amp Cab: 4x12 1960 T75... for the mic choose the 67 Cond. (remember.... 1960 is not the year, it's the Marshall cabinet model number. It's a 4x12 T-75 loaded Marshall cab) I'm not saying that will be the same... but it should be SIMILAR to what you are used to.

To post feature requests, visit ideascale.... https://line6.ideascale.com Find & Upvote existing feature requests before posting a new one. When you are searching for this on ideascale to upvote it.... the common term used is "performance view". I'm not sure if that is the official term, but it's how I see most people refer to it on the LT.

On the X3, what did you use for cabinet emulation with the "Brit JM Pre"? The Brit 2204 "Pre-Amp" model (not the full amp) on the Helix will likely be the closest.... but you really need to know what the cabinet emulation was on the X3 for that model so you can try to match it on the Helix.

Dimension and Bass Octaver are still regulars in my chains.

FWIW... with my LT, I use a 2nd EXP pedal, which is auto assigned to EXP 2 at all times. That leaves my TOE SWITCH open to do whatever I want with it. I actually use it to TOGGLE my VOLUME & WAH blocks ON/OFF. Both are controlled by EXP 1, but only one is on at any given time. The TOE switch can control the ON/OFF state of anything, I honestly did not realize it wasn't allowed to control "values" like every other switch on the Helix does. MAYBE... just maybe... this is because it's default "controller setting" is to change EXP1 to EXP2.... I digress, OP should ask Line 6 why it isn't an option, I might even do that myself :)

I don't have my Helix with me at this time... so I'm just going on the images you posted. So what you are saying is the TOE SWITCH is not available as a controller. This has to be an oversight at Line 6... it's just another switch and should be assignable like any other switch on the Helix. I'd recommend that you open a support ticket with Line 6 and ask them if there is a reason why the TOE SWITCH isn't an option as a controller. You may get a direct response as to why it isn't. "Ideascale" is usually the best place for feature requests but something like this would get buried pretty fast. I see it more as an "oversight"... unless they had a good reason not to include it. FWIW... I've considered using the toe switch to control values at times. Ultimately I never did, but I certainly assumed it would have been an option, just like any other switch on the Helix is.

Currently... the only option I am aware of is to find an expression pedal with a LOG taper... or various tapers included as an option. The curve of a EXP POT certainly effects how the Helix adjusts it's values. But that's a lot of trial & error, and even more hit & miss. There are many feature requests on IDEASCALE for better/more taper options on the Helix. Find them all and vote them up. I know I have over the years.

FWIW... I had to restore my own backups for the weekend gigs and up to that point the problem had not appeared on my machine with a few dozen starts this week. @theElevators... I'll restore your entire backup next week and see if I can coax out the problem. This has really peaked my interest, it does seem like a very obscure bug. Asking Line 6 to "just fix it" is not practical. Unless the bug can be repeated on demand the cause is unknown... therefore impossible to fix. Attempting to fix it without knowing the cause would be futile, since you can't measure the results of the change.

The mission is still an expression pedal... and is mostly subject to the curves set in the software. If you have a volume pedal you like the curve of... place it in the loop of the HX Effects, or anywhere in your chain that works.

I agree... it's not great, but I remember the times when "LINEAR" was our only option on Line 6 gear. YIKES! I can get by with the LOG curve for basic stuff on guitar, I also play pedal steel.... I use a traditional VP for that.

Go into the Volume Block on the HX Effect and set the CURVE to "Logarithmic".... which has a much smoother audio curve than "LINEAR" does. I wish they would give us more control over the volume curve, but having "log" as an option is a good start.

Where? I don't see anything like this on my Helix (LT).

You are very correct about that.... I'm not sure why I wrote JCM800 earlier, I knew better :)

Performance View on the LT is relatively easy to manage in sunlight. The screen is easily shaded without blocking access to any footswitches but is still dependent on sunlight angle. I don't find it any harder to see than any other unit I've ever used... and I've owned many over the years. When I used an HX Effects and had to rely on scribble strips - I found it much more difficult in the sun. I find it very beneficial to use a uniform layout throughout my presets. This helps me to get around the unit without needing to know where everything is. Snapshots are setup in the same order with similar functions, as are the stomps. My boost is always in the same spot, same for my lead overdrive, my tap delay, or my modulation - even if the effect differs from preset to preset. Upvoted...

We come from similar backgrounds.... I'll do what I can to help troubleshoot the problem.... but before I can begin, I will need the the problem to reveal itself on my machine.

This is something I do with my Helix all of the time.... I just did it again with your "global settings" and no, the problem has not appeared "yet". I will keep trying over the course of the week. I will have to return to my global settings this weekend for some shows.... but I can restore that "full backup" I just did once again when I'm done to resume tests next week. Those last three comments show you should never rule out anything. The fact that both of you have the same problem, but on different output pairs suggests hardware. It doesn't prove hardware, it suggests it. I'm still keeping the "bug" possibility wide open :) In my 40+ years in this business.... the most common culprit for gear failure I've come across are mis-behaving shorting jacks. That is what all signs are pointing to on this problem.... the LEFT SIDE doesn't know if the RIGHT SIDE is plugged in or not. After you give it a JOLT (plug in the right side then remove it) it works. That is exactly how you temporarily fix a shorting jack. Both... please try this very simple procedure to see if it helps. Get some quality contact cleaner and clean the RIGHT OUTPUT that is causing the grief. For the Right XLR socket...make sure you clean the visible metal piece at the inside top of the XLR. That metal part is not included on the LEFT XLR, and it's an educated guess that it likely plays a role in whether or not the Helix thinks it's in use or not. For the RIGHT 1/4".... put some cleaner on a 1/4" plug and work it in and out of the right jack several times. Do not spray directly into the Helix through the jack.

FYI.... I loaded up your "sound check" preset, and I've loaded your global settings.... nothing else. At this point the preset is behaving.... it sounds the same on initial boot (MONO) as it does when I run stereo. I also have my own "ping pong" preset and it is also behaving at this time. I'm not using the Helix for a few days so I'll leave it in this config and try it periodically to see if the problem surfaces. Out of curiosity.... on your machine(s) does this problem exist in the XLR OUTS, the 1/4" outs, or both?