codamedia

That's a great feeling isn't it? Especially coming from a respected tech. Congratulations! I find that respected techs understand this approach and appreciate it... inexperienced (or ignorant) techs need to be told (sometimes often) to flatten the strip, at least as a starting point.

@moxybass... I just realized you have the LOOP set up as a 4cm method. Are you running additional effects in that loop, or is it an AMP's preamp. If it is an AMP then can I ask why you are running a "preamp block" prior to the IR. Normally the amp is already serving as a preamp so only the IR block is actually required prior to sending to the FOH.

FWIW, I don't think the SPLIT has to pan anything... you should be able to feed both paths equally. Other than that the MERGE looks correct, as does the output block. Stomp to DI should just be a standard cable... TS

If the unit is new and/or still under warranty, use it. If it is not under warranty... then start by testing the power supply. If that is in good working order, the unit will need service.

If the laptop is "Windows"... make sure you updated the Helix DRIVERs to make sure they match the firmware. For midi I'm not sure if it will really make a difference, but it can't hurt. Just install the latest version of HX Edit, and make sure the drivers are all checked. I don't think that applies to a MAC, but I don't know for sure.

The critical step was to engage MIDI Thru on the Stomp... since you did that I'm at a loss as to why the midi signal is not being passed along to the MD200. Have you tried turning off MIDI PC Send on the Helix... maybe (just maybe) that is interfering/fighting with the signal from the DMC.Micro. Do you have the 2nd midi adapter for the MD200... maybe try going through the Boss, then to the Stomp.

Merge the path back to the top (after the IR, drag the bottom path to the top path).... then set the "merge block" Pans accordingly.

Directly.... no! Indirectly, Yes! Get your amp set up the way you want it and save it as a "FAVORITE" Now replace the amp blocks in the other presets with that "FAVORITE"... it will insert the amp along with the settings you saved. Keep in mind if you alter your amp settings they don't carry over to the other presets, you will need to do the whole process again. It's not a 100% solution, but it certainly serves as a good starting point for me.

1988 makes those original filter caps pretty old and volatile. The bias cap is likely in desperate need of replacement as well.

I hate to ask the obvious... but can the computer go to ANY websites? I have a couple Win 7 machines, they do not have any issues reaching Line 6. I'd suggest you download a little program called WinMTR.... then try and load the line 6 site there. It will show you how far your request is getting, and where a problem may lay. Does the phone connect in your home via WIFI, or CELL DATA? If it's cell data... switch it to WIFI so it uses the same connection as your Win 7 machine and see if you can still reach Line 6. If you lose the connection, then it's your provider that is having difficulty, not you. That is where that little program (WinMTR) comes in really handy to see what is really happening.

No, I would highly doubt that is built into the Super 60.... but it may be the correct path, keep reading. When the Stomp is in another amp... what is the volume difference between "bypassed mode" and "engaging the DSP's?" If the DSP signal is quite a bit hotter it is possible the first pre-amp tube in the amp (and/or something early in the circuit) is failing and cannot take the signal level. Have you tried turning down the processed signal to see if the amp "kicks in"? I had it happen one time, but not with a Helix device. When I ran a standard pedal board I always had a boost at the end of the chain. On one show I was using a backline amp on a gig (IIRC it was a Fender Hot Rod... Deville or Deluxe) and any time I engaged the boost the amp would stop. I thought the boost pedal failed so I stopped trying to use it on that gig. Turns out the pedal was fine... and never caused any grief on any other amp.

I updated when 3.15 came out and haven't had any issues like you are describing. Is it locking up on a particular preset, or after something particular you do such as engaging certain blocks in certain orders? That would indicate a corrupt preset or two that is causing you grief. Or is it random, any given preset at any given time? I would try the following... Take physical note of all GLOBAL settings Do a factory reset of the GLOBAL SETTINGS only. Now set them by hand - rather than restoring from a backup. NOTE: Tuner is also part of global settings, and VARIAX (if you have one) is also part of global settings. If that still doesn't work, then sadly it might be time for hardware service. If you believe it could be firmware related.... try rolling back the firmware and restoring the last backup from "that firmware" to see if the problem still exists.

FWIW... I used to run an HX Effects and HD500 together for several months which is a very similar set up. It worked great... without any noticeable latency.

If you brief through this old thread you will see I am a supporter of your idea on ideascale (ie: I'm on your side). I'm not telling you what to do... I simply said I wouldn't be comfortable with it and then pointed out an option that already exists. If you are getting by the way you are, carry on.

Can you confirm that you mean "Workbench HD"... not just "Workbench"? Workbench has never worked with a JTV or the Helix... so I just want to make sure that's not what you were trying.

Whatever works for you I guess... I prefer not to fly a Cessna while entertaining a crowd :) A little pre-planning of sounds and organization puts what I use most within a single click... and a handful of secondary items within 2 clicks Honestly... Instead of waiting for Line 6 to implement an idea with 11 votes (on ideascale, which I have upvoted) I think an easier solution (and less potential for Helix damage) for you would be a midi controller with page viewing. You can assign a CC number to each block you want access to... providing you don't use a reserved/used CC#. An 8 button controller with several "pages" via up/down) would do exactly what you need. They are not overly expensive, and already exist.

IMO/IME.... once you get past the amp model, the importance of IR placement is "almost" irrelevant. There will be some exceptions of course. Try a test for yourself. Set your Powercab for Full Range (FRFR mode) Open one of your presets in the Helix with an IR placed after the amp. Start moving the IR one block and a time (toward the output) and take note of any changes... I think you will find them less obvious than you thought they would be. NOTE: It is noted above already... moving it from one side of a compressor to the other is likely where you will notice the biggest difference... not because the placement changes tone, but because the LEVEL might have changed which always affects how a compressor reacts/sounds.

Anytime you do a restore it will go through another rebuild... I think of it less as a rebuild and more of a "somethings changed... let's example all these presets and make sure they are all in the correct format"... I also get a rebuild when I do a lot of housekeeping on the Helix. But once it rebuilds once, it won't again until I either "Import something" or "do more housekeeping". If your Helix rebuilds every time you start it and you have not changed anything or restored anything - that's when I would look for a corrupt preset as outlined by @silverheadin an above post.

I agree with @rd2rkabove... always send an XLR line to the mixer However, we differ on how we approach it. He sends from Helix XLR to Mixer and Helix 1/4" to his FRFR. I send my Helix XLR to my FRFR and my Helix 1/4" to a DI BOX which connects to the MIXER via XLR. Both of us set our "Big Volume" to control the signal going to the FRFR... so it never affects the signal going to the FOH (Mixer). Why do I do it differently? Well, the Helix does not like Phantom Power and I hate surprises. Rather than have to worry about it I simply put a DI between my Helix and the Mixer. It's just a comfort thing for me. There are always many ways to accomplish the same thing :)

The most common culprit will be mismatched levels between the Helix and the Amp. Each connection can differ from each other, but each connection needs to match. You will need to know if your Marshall loop is instrument or line level. Helix Send to Amp Input (Set the Helix send to Instrument Level) Amp Send to Helix Return (Set the helix return to match the amps send) Helix Output to Amp Return (Set the Helix Output to match the amps return) Either leave the Helix Volume on FULL.... or disconnect the volume from the output in global settings (which essentially leaves it on full)

FWIW... I run the Helix LT XLR output to my FRFR... I set the "big volume" to control that level only. I run the 1/4" output to a Radial DI... and leave the 1/4 outs set to "line level".... the volume is not connected to this, therefore it is a consistent level for the FOH. If I encounter a room where the tech says the gain is too hot, the Radial has a PAD that I can engage for them. No tech has ever told me the signal is too hot. ... which means the techs all have the knowledge and the gear to adjust it on their end to suit their needs, as it should be.

IIRC, the Stomp has LEFT/RIGHT inputs (not a single input) and a SPLIT at the very front of the chain has the ability send each input down a separate path, which can be merged later at any point. The OP could balance the level using a GAIN block at the front of one path. One GAIN block should cover it.... it could either lower the level of the loud instrument, or raise the level of the quiet instrument. Here's a screenshot of how I might attempt to set this up... it's done in Helix Native, using Stomp compatibility mode. The image shows the gain block on the lower level, and the SPLIT is highlighted to show how I would separate the inputs. I don't have a Stomp to confirm it works, but I used to do this with my HX Effects when I owned one. You could probably use a Single Input and a SPLIT A/B to accomplish this as well. Just assign a button to VALUE of the Split A/B to change the path the input gets directed.

IMO, the complaint is valid... and I have never found a work around for it either. If there is one, please point me toward it. For those that don't understand the problem.... Assign a snapshot to a button in command center so that snapshot becomes available in stomp mode. Change snapshots and see if that assignment is still there NO LUCK, you have to add it again for the current snapshot, then repeat again for all remaining snapshots. Prior to 3.15 that assignment remained across all snapshots It's a wonderful/powerful feature (added in 3.15) for those that want to change their assignments with each snapshot... but it's a pain for those that want the one setting to stick across all snapshots. Again, if I'm missing the "quick solution" please point me to it. I'm not afraid to admit when I'm an idiot that overlooked the obvious - LOL!

If you only need 1 or 2 octaves DOWN.... then the BOSS Octave pedals might work for you. I have no suggestions if you need something simple that does an octave up.

That would have saved me a lot of time as I recently reorganized a couple dozen presets... I had just assumed it wasn't possible, all I really had to do was RTFM - LOL!