codamedia

Thanks for the notes... I know the features of the 2nd Gen Variax guitars, but I don't have any experience with them. Hopefully someone with experience can jump in and help out. There is one thing that concerns me.... That suggests you are burning the candle from both ends.... How do you have the tuning control set on the guitar? Is it set to a half step down, or standard? What model is the Helix loading when you go to the preset? And what tuning is the HELIX telling the guitar to load?

First.... can I assume you are on an modern (2nd gen) Variax... and that you are using the Helix to manipulate the tuning? If so, I don't use a 2nd Gen Variax so I'm not going to be able to give you a definitive answer. Hopefully someone else can jump in. Are you just toggling the guitar for these sounds, or are you recalling them via snapshots? My outline was how to change guitar models via preset/snapshots.... not toggling on the guitar if that is what you are doing. I'd suggest taking the time to find out all the idiosyncrasies of the two approaches.... they may step on each other in ways you won't expect.

I actually thought your opening post was a joke....not because of the formant filter request (that's reasonable), but rather because of this line "I was trying to create a 3,275 voice choir with the synth engine". If you actually bought a Helix for it's "formant filter" and it's "synth engine".... you obviously didn't do any homework before laying out the money :)

This is certainly possible... I do it with my 1st Gen Variax (a Variax 300) while the 2nd Gen Variax Guitars (JTV, Standard, Shuriken) have even more capabilities. First step... You must connect the Variax to the Helix using a VDI Cable. It will not work with a simple 1/4" guitar cable. PROGRAMMING THROUGH HX EDIT Open your preset Go to the INPUT section of the preset... make sure it is set to Multi OR Variax (Variax = the VDI connection) Click on the VARIAX Tab (middle of page, right side) Set the Settings to "Per Preset" (this loads a new model each time the preset is clicked) Choose the model you want... and save the setting. Now each time you choose that preset, the model will load on the guitar NOTE: If you would like the ability to change models on each snapshot, that is also easy. Right click on the "model" and choose "Snapshots" Choose the model.... save the snapshot Change the snapshot... choose the model... save the snapshot repeat.... PROGRAMMING ON THE HELIX Open your preset Go to the INPUT section of the preset... make sure it is set to Multi OR Variax (Variax = the VDI connection) Click the "Page >" button to show the Variax Page Variax Settings should be set to "Per Preset" (this loads a new model each time the preset is clicked) Choose the model you want... and save the setting. Now each time you choose that preset, the model will load on the guitar NOTE: If you would like the ability to change models on each snapshot, that is also easy. PRESS and TURN the "Preset Variax Model". This puts it in Snapshot mode. Choose the model.... save the snapshot Change the snapshot... choose the model... save the snapshot repeat.... NOTE (warning): The first bullet of step 3 says "Variax Settings should be set to "Per Preset"". This control is actually a GLOBAL setting on the Helix and once it is changed on one preset, ALL presets will follow the rule. This ONE setting is Saved and Restored as part of Global Settings when a backup is done. The rest of the variax settings (models, tone, etc...) are actual preset settings. 1st Gen Variax Warnings (these only apply to the older Variax models such as the 500, 300, 600, 700) Alternate tuning controls on the Helix will not do anything on these models. Don't bother trying :) You must set the MODEL choice on the Helix. If you change it on the guitar then save on the Helix... the wrong model will be saved! You can always change the models on the guitar during use... just don't press SAVE on the helix after doing so. Do yourself a favor and set your "Snapshots Edits" to "Discard" in the Global Settings. If you don't.... bullet #2 is going to bite you hard at some point.

As already stated... no, this is not possible the way you hoped it would be. The best you can do here is set up your guitar tones using snapshots... then use your STOMP mode as midi control. For this to work using nothing more than the MODE button, set your preset screen to "8 Snapshot Mode". The MODE will toggle from Snapshots to Stomp and when you need a preset just step on the up/down arrows. Don't forget about "instant commands" in command center. Loading a preset or changing a snapshot can send it's own series of midi commands although in my experience this requires an extra level of planning. I do agree with @DunedinDragon... adding a full featured midi controller to your setup is likely the best option.

Is that you playing? Quite nice... I didn't take you as a country picker - that's well done! IMO, any single coil guitar works well for country twang... whether it's a Tele, Strat, any P-90 guitar, etc... etc.. Technique is a big part of "twang"... so it can be coaxed out of many different guitars. I'm not into "looks" so I can't comment there :) The TELE has fallen out of flavor in modern "country pop"... the players actually avoid them. Then again, modern "country pop" doesn't twang so that makes sense. The underground country scene still twangs... there are plenty of Teles, Strats and Jazzmasters floating around that scene.

On the unit itself.... when you highlight the compressor the gain reduction meter will appear in the top right of the the settings. From "right to left"... is shows 0, -7, -14, -21, etc..... you'll want the meter to bounce just over -7 when you are aggressive, but (IMO) if you hit -14 it's too much compression.

You are looking for unity... not a decreased volume. Usually this will sound a little louder on it's own, but will sit in the mix properly with a band or tracks. Pay attention to the gain reduction meters of your compressor. For country snap, you want this to register around -10 with some fairly heavy playing. If it is clamping down more than that, there is too much compression, and every compressor is different on how to lower that. IME... with humbuckers you cannot get a "stomp style" compressor low enough on it's own.... you need to insert a gain block ahead of the compressor and lower the level that is reaching the comp then make up the level at the compressor output. In this scenario, both the "gain and the comp" must be engaged/disengaged at the same time (as one pedal). The blend can certainly be your friend to avoid over compression... but you still need to get the "compressor" settings right before dialing that in. Squashing the signal then balancing with the blend is NOT the country sound you are after. Get that gain reduction around -10, then fine tune with the blend.

For classic country style cleans try the BF Fender models.... Deluxe or Princeton are both quite nice. For some light break up tones, another favorite of country players would be an AC30 variant, Dr Z or the Matchless. Keep in mind that the tone usually starts with single coils... P90's or a Tele Bridge pickup provide a lot of aggression and snap synonymous with the style. I've had some success with higher output pickups by rolling back the volume at the guitar to about 7 or 8. This "sometimes" (guitar dependent) will thin the tone a little yet still retain some high end.

Correct about the Auto-Z... I tend to forget about that because I don't use it :) As for tuning... Returns aren't included when "multi" is chosen but they can be assigned - which means they are connected. Inconvenience maybe (you do need to bend over), but it's still possible.

If all the "faves" midi pedal does is banks/presets.... it won't be very interesting. All you'll do is change a couple presets. If it can be programmed to do CC numbers/values, then it could be interesting.

It already exists, it's just not "labeled" as such. You can use any one of the RETURNS on a Helix as an input... each can be set as Instrument or Line level... along with a little fine tuning of each.

@Verne-Bunsen and @mrmichaelgibson... Thanks for the clarification.... my mind wasn't registering the quarter step properly.... :) I would simply set the Pitch Reference to 450 and tune down a half step.

Even though it's undocumented with the Helix devices (only documented with the Stomp).... I can verify this also works with the LT. Although it might not be for everyone, I know it suits my workflow very nicely. Thanks again for sharing this solution with us.

FWIW... That wasn't part of your initial question... :) That's is a great set of troubleshooting and a wonderful solution. Thanks for sharing it with us. The Helix manual only states that CC71 is reserved for future use... here's hoping they document it to match the HX Stomp manual since it appears to be set up. I also prefer the way CC128 is set up on the HX Stomp Manual - LOL! "HX Stomp sends late-night texts to all of your ex-significant others, professing your undying love to them and their cats"

That's not what I read from the quote you included..... The quote says "Dimebag tuned down MORE THAN a quarter step".... It should be down to Eb, then DOWN another 40 cents. His use of the work "plus" is a little confusing... it should read "subtract another 40 cents". How to on the Helix 1hz = roughly 4 cents.... (that's off the top of my head... there will a calculation for this somewhere - adjust as needed) Therefore.... set your tuner reference to 430hz then tune down all strings a half step. It might not be dead on, but it should be very close. NOTE: IF you really think it is 40 cents "higher" than a half step it's an easy adjustment.... set the reference to 450 and still tune down a full step. In either case, your strings will read.... Eb, Ab, Db, Gb, Bb, Eb when tuning.

This was added in the 2.9 update... In STOMP MODE you can now add anything you want to a footswitch, snapshots included.

Global Settings > Footswitches > Preset Mode Switch Set this to "8 snapshots" then the MODE button toggles between 10 stomps & 8 snapshots. Once snapshots are enabled, the UP/DOWN arrows will open the preset screen. As stated above.... you can assign snapshots to any footswitch in stomp mode giving you instant access, at least to the ones you need most.

For most musicians (on other instruments) their technique is their tone and they understand that. Many guitar players missed that lesson along the way and focus too much on the gear. I don't think I would suggest modeling is to blame - it's been that way as long as I can remember.

Well... the big units did come a few years before the stomp... so yeah, it makes sense that the thought came later to make them more "multi-function". I won't blame Line 6 for petty stuff like this... seriously, it's easy to overcome & I've got way more important things to worry about in life.

As I have found with my LT... if something is connected to the EXP jack, the Helix expects to see some resistance values in order to work. The Stomp has the ability to actually add basic footswitches, not the full size Helix units.

Hmmmm..... Maybe I should try a simple switch again. When I get a moment I will. With the LT I only have EXP2 as an option. By chance, have you tried EXP 2 on the floor, or just EXP 3? EDIT TO ADD: Yes, I can assign the ON/OFF state of a block to EXP2 (which eliminates the need of auto engage)... However a simple latching switch does not work for me... that same switch with a 10K resister hard wired does work.

Wait.... what? (yes, I'm kidding)

Not only that.... but Without the firmware yet to be released your Helix is rendered useless. When that firmware is released... see #1

The Stomp is set up to use simple external switches.... but the Helix Floor/LT requires a little more effort. The switch must be wired with some resistance. The blocks you want to control need to be set to "auto-engage" when that resistance is applied... (or reversed with the EXP invert control) I was mistaken about this NOTE: If there is zero resistance on the "off" position.. the external EXP will disconnect. This can lead to unpredictable results. I wired the switch with 10k as my "on" position, and about 100ohm as my off position. This avoided these issues. If I am mistaken I'd be happy to say I'm wrong.... but the last time I worked on using an external EXP as an "on/off" with my LT... those were the issues I found. (they are not difficult to implement... but needed to be done)