codamedia

FWIW, when I use the computer for editing any hardware (not just the helix), I am always in the habit of saving changes on the hardware, not from the software. I look at it this way... it's the hardware that is saving the snapshot/preset, so I push save on the hardware. The software is just the middle man, and I don't trust a middle man with anything important :) I keep my Helix on a stand beside me in my studio so it's easy for me to do this. I can certainly understand the trouble if you keep it on the floor or out of reach.

I agree with the full reset.... that is always solid advice when dealing with computer devices that are acting out of the ordinary. Two other things to consider... Did phantom power accidentally get turned on at the mixer? The Helix does strange things when phantom power is on. These units are susceptible to power... are you sure there were no power issues at the practice spot that evening?

A pedal that does nothing more than push the front of an amp harder would be a clean boost or a variant of one (EQ, Treble Boost, etc... etc...) Overdrives use soft clipping to add dirt.... to varying degrees. Distortions use hard clipping to add dirt.... to varying degrees. There is a lot of overlap between an overdrive and a distortion. Even clean boosts can come with a little grit themselves.

Yeah... very strange because I never saw or responded to this thread until this morning... after you quoted me - LOL. The guitar modeling on the 300 would be different from a JTV so I suspect you may need to setup duplicate/tweaked presets for when you grab that guitar. I'm also not sure if the guitar models would be in the same positions... which could cause problems if you change models via snapshots & presets. IMO, the 700 is one of the nicest looking guitars I've ever seen and from what I understand the build quality is exceptional. If you already have an XT (as a computer interface) and are comfortable with the processes to make it work well on a Helix, it sounds like you have things in order.

The JD Aura is not a "speaker sim" it's more of a "mic/distance" sim. No cabinets.... no amps - just the tone of the MIC/Distance through a high end pre-amp. When you use a piezo on a Dobro (resonator)... the JD Aura adds that "mic/distance" flavor into the tone. When you capture an IR from a JD Aura, it does the same thing. I have to respectfully disagree with "in all cases it's always been used with a traditional amp". In Bluegrass and Country it's often just a mic direct to FOH/Console like an acoustic guitar would be. I've never seen my favorite "Dobro Players" (Jerry Douglass, Phil Leadbetter (RIP), etc...) plug into any "traditional amp"... yet some of my favorite Blues/Americana players all use amps. Both options are viable, but each option provides a very different tone suited to different styles of playing. As I mention above, that is certainly one viable way to do it but so is placing a MIC on the resonator at 12" - 16". You simply cannot do the latter with a Helix because you can't add a MIC without a cabinet... and you can't pull the mic back further than 6". On the Helix alone... maybe a neutral sounding cabinet with the 121 would get close... but (IMO) I would not insert an amp into the mix for the bluegrass tones I am familiar with.

Don't use the guitar while making an IR, use a sweep wave to get the purist sound from the Fishman. Use the free version of voxengo deconvolver to create the sweep.... Record the direct sweep on one audio file... Set the JD Aura to preset 1.... turn the blend up full and the volume about half way Play the sweep you recorded in step 1 through the aura, and record it's output in a new file or track Repeat for all the presets Now use "deconvolver" to create the IR's by comparing the original sweep to each each recorded preset sweep. You will make 16 IR's in total (one for each preset)... but the free version of deconvolver needs to be restarted after 2 or 3 builds. I did this with my JD Aura and with my favorite tones from my Fishman Aura. The IR's are indistinguishable from the hardware. NOTE: It takes some trial and error... there are some youtube videos on using deconvolver to create IR's you might find useful.

Follow the advice of @rd2rk above.... I'm just going to expand on one thing he mentions. The presets you bought will include "cab models". The PC+ must be set to "FRFR Mode" (Preset 000 Flat Stereo) for those presets to sound good. If you are running the PC+ with any speaker modeling at all, you need to turn off the cabinet in the Helix models. The general rule is do not run a speaker model into another speaker or speaker model. "Muddy/muffled" is often the result when you do.

@jcmathews... I'm not sure how you quoted me as I have not been part of this thread (yet). It is my understanding that the "modeling" of the 500, 300, 600 and 700 are the same. The guitars are different, the electronic housings are different, the bridges are different, etc... etc... but the modelling is the same and interchangeable. NOTE: I only own a 300, so I cannot say this with 100% certainty. FWIW... A standard scale Telecaster or Stratocaster neck works fine on a Variax 300. I put a genuine 80's Tele Neck on my Variax 300 and it immediately became a much nicer guitar to play. If I were you... I'd look at upgrading the neck on your 300, then buy a MODERN Generation Variax as your main guitar.... such as a JTV or Variax Standard (Yamaha). That 2nd gen Variax plays nicer with the Helix Line, alternate tuning is separated from the models, and it comes with magnetic pickups for great versatility. The sounds won't be identical between the two generations of Variax... but why should that matter. I own multiple telecasters and strats, none of them sound like each other.

My apologies... that was not my intent at all. I do like to remind people there are manuals (you would be surprised at how many never look at them), but I don't tell you to go look for it... I do provide the answer as best I can in an effort to help.

That's why they make those pesky annoying things called manuals :) When you buy something as "deep" as an HX Device (Effects, Stomp, Helix) it's worth the time to read the manual, and keep it close by for quick reference. If you like to watch video tutorials... don't limit yourself to HX Effects. The same principles of programming are done on the Helix, so those videos are also relevant, and there are many more of them.

Anything in the signal view can be there without a switch assigned to it. The first step is to disassociate the signal view from the stomp mode view.... those dots only have to connect when YOU want them to. Nope, that's just an assumption on your part :) As I state above.... stomp mode (switches) is irrelevant... the chain is managed in signal flow view. You can have all 9 blocks filled and nothing assigned to a footswitch if you want. The manual will go over signal flow view quite well.

A couple things to check.... Did you accidentally insert a STEREO loop on switch 5 instead of a MONO loop? Are you already using "return 1" somewhere.... which would make it unavailable for a loop.

Based on the three you mention I'd lean toward a quality PA Speaker such as the QSC. EDIT TO ADD: I had made an assumption the L2 was one of those BOSE Systems.... which are nice, but not something I would use for the Helix. If the reference is for a Line 6 Stagesource L2, then I would certainly place that right up there with a QSC or other quality PA speaker for your needs.

Makes sense. If you weren't into pedals you wouldn't realize the effect a buffered pedal had, whether the effect was on or off.

How the design worked was written into the early manuals.... and defended (for a while) on the forums by line 6 reps. Well, fixed impedance is the by-product of a buffered pedal... I know countless players with pedal boards that start with a buffered pedal. Auto Imp: First Block: This is how a buffered pedal effects your pedal board when placed first. Auto Imp: First Active Block: This is how true bypass pedals effect your pedal board when placed first. And of course... there is an option to choose a fixed impedance on each preset, bypassing the Auto Imp altogether. No right, no wrong... just personal preference on how to proceed.

I now it's nit-picking, but you are not getting away with sliding that in :) Not liking how it was initially designed doesn't make it a bug... a bug is when something doesn't behave as "designed" I'm glad you found the setting you were looking for.

To Install LINE 6 EDIT (For the XT Live) on Windows 10.... follow this HOW TO (the first post) https://line6.com/support/topic/59140-how-to-install-line-6-edit-on-windows-10/ To Install LINE 6 WORKBENCH (for 1st gen Variax Guitars) on Windows 10... follow this HOW TO (the first post) https://line6.com/support/topic/59142-how-to-install-the-original-workbench-on-windows-10/ I wrote both of these... and it's the method I STILL USE for each when installing on Windows 10 machines. NOTE: Don't assume anything... follow each step precisely

When you change guitars there will be a big change in how every preset responds. Some changes are for the good, some not so good, some bad! I would expect the same thing if I changed pickups in a guitar..

You cannot just mute the amp.... you must silence the path. It is not clear in your post if you have actually tried the suggestion I made.... which indeed, works exactly as it should on my Helix. Here it is again.....

This is the correct suggestion.... you can also place the delay before the amp on Path B if you want. Well.... how are you muting the amp in path A? If you are just turning off the AMP BLOCK, that does not mute the signal just the sound of the amp. The pick sound would still come through on path A. Try setting the SPLIT before the amps to a SPLIT A/B. To test the B side only.... simply adjust the slider all the way to the B side. This will stop any signal from going to Path A.

No midi, snapshot, or controller assignments are stored with favorites. From the manual... (excluding any existing controller and snapshot assignments). I don't know about the NAME and AUTOCOLOUR.... but they do seem to address something regarding the bypass assignment. From the manual... NOTE: If you don’t want a favorite to be recalled with its bypass assignment, add the block to Favorites before you create a custom bypass assignment.

Thanks for this tip.... it is great to know this in advance of ever needing it myself. I've traditionally kept to mono presets, but that doesn't mean I will never go stereo.

All of the above.... but one thing you cannot get is "instant tuner" when you push the switch. There is always going to be the delay before the tuner engages.

If you save a block (amp, effect) as a user default.... every time you load that block from the menu it will start with your settings, not the settings Line 6 coded in. EG: I have a specific way I always adjust a tube screamer.... the default settings from Line 6 were not even close. With this "default setting" option I was able to tweak the TS to my liking, then save it as a user default. Now whenever I load a Tube Screamer - it starts with the settings I like. NOTE: User defaults do not include any midi, snapshot, or controller assignments.

Great job...As a bit of a tinkerer I've considered building my own midi controller to conform to my needs.... this might be the thread to get me started.