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Found 9 results

  1. I got my G10 transmitter and receiver for Christmas 2018 and after the recent safety update it went from being able to do 2 hour gigs to lasting about 10 minutes. It was outside of the warranty so after much forum reading I decided to fix it myself and now it's back to how it was since I first got it for the price of a new battery. All I needed was: New battery Soldering iron Solder Sandpaper (for roughing up the battery ends to get the solder to stick) This is the Olight battery I bought for £4.95 plus shipping - it's very similar to the original but slightly longer (because it has short circuit and overcharge protection) so you'll have to do some trimming on the inside and desolder and then resolder two wires, not a big deal really! https://www.torchdirect.co.uk/olight-batteries-chargers/olight-14500-37-v-750-mah-li-ion-protected-battery.html 1. Lift the sticker on the top and use a Torx size 7 to remove the screw that holds the end cap on. 2. Slide the outer sleeve off and use a Torx 4 to open the inner sleeve. 3. Here's the battery I used to replace the original. 4. Peel off the thin plastic wrap around the original battery. 5. Here you can see the orignal is the same as the one I bought to replace it, 3.7v and 600ma. 6. The new one is slightly longer so you'll need to trim off with a dremel (or in my case melt off with a soldering iron) the extra plastic bits on the inside to make room. None of them are needed as the metal Line6 labelled sleeve holds it all together anyway! 7. Solder the wires to the new battery, reassemble and rock on! If you can't get the solder to stick to the battery ends, rough them up a bit with a file or piece of sandpaper.
  2. First off, I have the original power supply for my PodXT LIVE (that I am the only owner of) and it's 100% functional. I built a power supply from a Weber power transformer that has eight 9vdc 300mA outputs and one 9vac 2A output. I plug the cable I made into the 9vac output on my supply and measure 9.57vac between the pin and barrel so the supply and the cable are good. However, when I plug that cable into the XT Live the unit does not power up. If I plug in the original power supply it works just fine, but when I measure that, it's output is more like 10.5 vac. Any ideas what could be going on? I figured I would ask first before I start tracing through the power section of the XT live to see what's different about my supply.
  3. Hello every body I dont know if somebody will be interested by this experiment I learn how to generarate my own IR to record myself with same sound as I was using my Amp and CAB. but it gave me a strange idea... May I try to reproduce a Banjo sound this way. And I try... concept : Inject a test tone fiel in an old (and uggly) banjo guitar, using sound exciters : see picture 1 (exciters) ans picture 2 (banjo guitar with the exciters on top, fixed by adhesiv, one on strings behind the sillet, tne second on the wood. I used 2 in serie to get 8 Ohms impedencie to protect the amp. Record the Banjo response with the mic in picture 2, and build an IR with Voxengo software (demo version). then I drop the IR into the helix, put some gain ( level of the IR is low), use a compressor , a simple pitch to add an harmony (+12 interval mix 30%) and a few plate reverb) and then record directly these few notes into the DAW through USB... and that's the result with a Parker PdF30 modified, bridge Mic Seth lover splited ! not perfect, but fun experiment ! If you'r interested I can post the IR and the tone... but try this with any other instrument, resonator...or anything else... Banjo tentative.mp3 Banjo tentative.mp3
  4. I made a dual expression knob controller for my Stomp. Both potentiometers are 10k linear, lug one is connected to tip/ring (one for each pot) and lugs 2 & 3 are connected to ground. When hooked up to the Stomp, the stomp reads 100% at about the 2 o’clock position, and when I went to the “Learn” setting, it reaches 100% at about the 4 o’clock position, but still not at the full rotation. So essentially, the Learn setting did something, but it seems like the Stomp still isn’t using the full rotation of the knob. The last 15% or so of the knob doesn’t do anything. Did I wire the pot correctly or do I have the right pot value? Or is there a calibration setting that I don’t have right?
  5. I made a two-button footswitch for changing Helix patches up and down, using a generic (Elegoo) Arduino Nano board. It sends MIDI program change messages, and is endlessly customizable. Complete parts list: Hammond 1590a enclosure Elegoo nano (set of three for cheap https://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Elegoo-ATmega328P-without-compatible/dp/B0713XK923 ) two SPST momentary (normally open) switches LED and 220 ohm resistor (optional) panel-mount MIDI jack panel-mount 9v jack (optional, easy to power from 9v battery--Nano draws only 25mA, and only 37mA while LED is lit) hookup wire My code is pasted below. Entire project took less than two hours, and cost less than dinner. // midi.controller // Sends midi program change // Aaron Lyon April 2018 #include <MIDI.h> MIDI_CREATE_DEFAULT_INSTANCE(); byte patchNum = 0; #define BUTTON_PIN_1 2 #define BUTTON_PIN_2 3 #define LED_PIN 13 void setup() { pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_1, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(BUTTON_PIN_2, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(LED_PIN, OUTPUT); MIDI.begin(MIDI_CHANNEL_OMNI); } void loop() { if (digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN_1) == LOW && patchNum < 99) { // Next Program digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH ); patchNum++; MIDI.sendProgramChange(patchNum, 1); delay(200); digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW ); } if (digitalRead(BUTTON_PIN_2) == LOW && patchNum >= 1) { // Next Program digitalWrite(LED_PIN, HIGH ); patchNum--; MIDI.sendProgramChange(patchNum, 1); delay(200); digitalWrite(LED_PIN, LOW ); } }
  6. Everyone likes the end result first, so here is a pic or the board standing up. (Sorry about my lollipop photography skills) So I've been looking at the Helix a bit over the last couple of days and one thing that stuck out to me was a lack of guides for the I/O when standing up looking at the pedal. In a dark setting and at a show most of the time I'm leaning over my board to look at connections upside down and then having to combat faint text to work out where I'm at. I noticed that the design of the Helix has an angled section near the top. I thought it was a bit odd that this wasn't potentially used for ease of use with respect to the back panel. So I got to thinking. I used a label maker I had lying around at home and purchased some neon green fluorescent cartridges for it. Then, I printed a few copies of each section (adjusting the spacing if need). The method behind this was to be able to separate each section so that the 'boarder line' were in line with where the input/outputs would roughly be. Once all of them were done it as just a matter of sticking them in the order I preferred and now its much easier to deal with plugging everything I need in. Here are some photos in a dark and light setting. I hope it helps or inspires someone. - Zahn
  7. If I get a nice, braided ethernet cable and connected some Neutrik ethercon ends, it seems like I could have a better VDI cable than is currently available in the market. But how can one activate the locking tab on the RJ-45 connectors with the Neutrik sleeve covering it? I know a few of you have made these already - do you have to break the tab off? Is it locked in the "open" position? Something else? Appreciate any insights y'all can provide. Cheers - Dan
  8. I've had the UX2 for quite sometime and never got a footswitch for it it so I decided to make one . Since I have the basic hand tools. a drill/drills, soldering iron/related tools, light wire and quarter inch 6 ft guitar cables all I needed was 2 quarter inch mono jacks, 2 momentary switches (light duty) and a box all of which I found at Radio Shack. I added 1 more switch and jack so I can run to something else tha'll use a momentary switch. It works great and It makes the UX2 so much better. GearBox TonePort Setup PDF Rowbinet's YouTube video about using the software
  9. Hi, I have a podUX1 with PODFARM2, I designed a preset for a cool VanHalen tone with soldano, compressor, tubescreamer, chorus, plate and short delay. I wonder if a solution exists to bring the preset onstage (in an hardware pedal for example). I don't care of the amp simulation, I would like to have the chorus, plate and delay only in the same pedal and not necessary change the settings of each effect. To summarize, the pedal with only a footswitch which has the settings predefined (for the VH tone I love :D). An analogic solution will not be very accurate and programm a DSP for a numerical solution seems to be really hard to emulate the same tone of podfarm :(. I hope someone has an answer... Sorry for my poor English, Thanks in advance :), Lucas
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