codamedia

Makes sense. If you weren't into pedals you wouldn't realize the effect a buffered pedal had, whether the effect was on or off.

How the design worked was written into the early manuals.... and defended (for a while) on the forums by line 6 reps. Well, fixed impedance is the by-product of a buffered pedal... I know countless players with pedal boards that start with a buffered pedal. Auto Imp: First Block: This is how a buffered pedal effects your pedal board when placed first. Auto Imp: First Active Block: This is how true bypass pedals effect your pedal board when placed first. And of course... there is an option to choose a fixed impedance on each preset, bypassing the Auto Imp altogether. No right, no wrong... just personal preference on how to proceed.

I now it's nit-picking, but you are not getting away with sliding that in :) Not liking how it was initially designed doesn't make it a bug... a bug is when something doesn't behave as "designed" I'm glad you found the setting you were looking for.

To Install LINE 6 EDIT (For the XT Live) on Windows 10.... follow this HOW TO (the first post) https://line6.com/support/topic/59140-how-to-install-line-6-edit-on-windows-10/ To Install LINE 6 WORKBENCH (for 1st gen Variax Guitars) on Windows 10... follow this HOW TO (the first post) https://line6.com/support/topic/59142-how-to-install-the-original-workbench-on-windows-10/ I wrote both of these... and it's the method I STILL USE for each when installing on Windows 10 machines. NOTE: Don't assume anything... follow each step precisely

When you change guitars there will be a big change in how every preset responds. Some changes are for the good, some not so good, some bad! I would expect the same thing if I changed pickups in a guitar..

You cannot just mute the amp.... you must silence the path. It is not clear in your post if you have actually tried the suggestion I made.... which indeed, works exactly as it should on my Helix. Here it is again.....

This is the correct suggestion.... you can also place the delay before the amp on Path B if you want. Well.... how are you muting the amp in path A? If you are just turning off the AMP BLOCK, that does not mute the signal just the sound of the amp. The pick sound would still come through on path A. Try setting the SPLIT before the amps to a SPLIT A/B. To test the B side only.... simply adjust the slider all the way to the B side. This will stop any signal from going to Path A.

No midi, snapshot, or controller assignments are stored with favorites. From the manual... (excluding any existing controller and snapshot assignments). I don't know about the NAME and AUTOCOLOUR.... but they do seem to address something regarding the bypass assignment. From the manual... NOTE: If you don’t want a favorite to be recalled with its bypass assignment, add the block to Favorites before you create a custom bypass assignment.

Thanks for this tip.... it is great to know this in advance of ever needing it myself. I've traditionally kept to mono presets, but that doesn't mean I will never go stereo.

All of the above.... but one thing you cannot get is "instant tuner" when you push the switch. There is always going to be the delay before the tuner engages.

If you save a block (amp, effect) as a user default.... every time you load that block from the menu it will start with your settings, not the settings Line 6 coded in. EG: I have a specific way I always adjust a tube screamer.... the default settings from Line 6 were not even close. With this "default setting" option I was able to tweak the TS to my liking, then save it as a user default. Now whenever I load a Tube Screamer - it starts with the settings I like. NOTE: User defaults do not include any midi, snapshot, or controller assignments.

Great job...As a bit of a tinkerer I've considered building my own midi controller to conform to my needs.... this might be the thread to get me started.

Depending on your screen size, HX Edit does not require the entire screen to be functional. You could split the screen half and half with each editor and make note of which side is which. If you happen to run a dual monitor setup, each instance of editor could live on it's own monitor. I need to do this sort of juggling with other software all the time but only have one Helix so it's never been an issue for me in that regard.

As stated above... just use the LEFT output and the presets will sum to MONO. This is also possible. Export your SETLIST Import that it into a NEW SETLIST location.... maybe name the new setlist MONO Now simply use the LEFT out and let the unit sum to mono Adjust each preset to taste while monitoring in mono....

I fully agree.... I was joking with the "E-Book..... oh well.... " comment... sorry if it didn't come across as such.

The only way this could possibly happen is if the LOOP block became disengaged on the Helix. Double check your presets and make sure there isn't a snapshot or stomp button that is disengaging the LOOP block, or changing the value of the BLEND/MIX at the loop block. You do say that changing presets did not solve it while a reboot does. I don't have an answer or suggestion for that. I'm assuming that the presets you are changing in/out of all have LOOP blocks on them, and that those blocks are engaged.

That certainly makes sense as a progression through the years... @bloomk ... I'm attaching some IR's that may come in handy when searching for these tones. 9 IR's from the Palmer PDI-03, and 4 from an old Rockman. I didn't have these with the thought of producing Def Leppard tones.... but if this is the direction they took over different periods they may (or may not) help :) NOTE: I created the rockman IR's myself, I'm not sure where I got the Palmer IR's, but they are not a commercial release... someone made them from a Palmer they had. palmer_rockman_ir.zip

E-Book..... oh well.... I would have put a hard/soft cover right beside my "Home Recording For Musicians" from the 80's... Or my "35 DIY projects for guitar players".... .... both written by some guy with your name - LOL! Nice to see you posting here Craig!

These guys had direct rigs long before direct was ever a consideration..... No amps on stage & in - ears suggests that is still what they do. Why not - they've built an entire brand on those sounds. In 2014 Phil Collen was running into Marshall JMP-1 preamps and used Fractal AXE FXII's for effects and IR's. If I needed that tone.... I'd call up a Marshall JCM800 Pre-amp... load some old Rockman IR's (for cabinets)... then adjust some effects to taste.

+1 to everything said above by @rd2rk.... To answer the question directly, no there isn't an input level. Under normal circumstances you do not need anything more than what is already provided.... Line/Instrument & Pad. That' s more than most pedal boards will give you. If you absolutely need an input level, there is nothing stopping you from placing a simple GAIN block at the beginning of each preset. Yep.... halfway or a touch higher is where it likes to live. If you push it too hot you run the risk of running out of headroom. There is no "tone benefit" to running the Helix near the red. If you are not getting enough signal to your Audio Interface.... set the outputs on the Helix to LINE. If you start hitting the Interface too hot, turn down the input level on the interface, or turn down the big volume on the Helix. FYI: The output KNOB on the Helix is attenuation only. If you disconnect the volume from a set of outputs (in the global settings).... it effectively sets those outputs to FULL volume. Having it FULL is not boosting the volume in any way but you can safely turn it down as required without sacrificing tone.

Yeah... I think we all get that. It's been explained in depth on this thread by many .... most saying the same thing in many different ways. The importance of what has been explained in this thread should not be dismissed! Good luck with your journey.... it's time for me to tag out on this thread.

First of all... your entire post was great... thanks for taking the time. What you mention in the paragraph I quote is something I learned back in the mid 80's. For many years I spent 48 weeks a year living on the road in hotel rooms and to keep my sanity (and avoid drugs/alcohol) I travelled with a Tascam Postastudio, a Roland Drum machine, a Rockman, and a good microphone. My initial recordings only sounded good on the ghetto blaster I had to mix on and headphones. Headphones ALWAYS sounded best, but that doesn't mean it was good! The flaws were exposed as I played the songs back on other systems. It took a lot of time, and a set of speakers (not headphones) I could trust before I could create mixes that translated well on most playbacks. (for those not aware, this is a never ending learning curve) As you say... this is now applicable to guitar players with the advancements in modeling. Some of us gracefully transitioned thanks to past experience, while others are starting where I did back in 1984... and where most have started at some point. The faster a person can move past this hurdle, the better. As much as the OP insists his tone's don't need to translate, he doesn't seem to realize that is exactly what he needs... and it starts on speakers, not headphones. No sense in me typing it again... I'll just quote it...

Here are three things to consider.... maybe one will apply to you. The pedal on the Helix is suppose to be self-calibrating at start up. On every start up.... I take the time to do "toe down > heel down > toe down" on my internal & external expression pedal. I can't say that it helps or not, but I can say I am not experiencing the problem you (and others) have reported.... so maybe it does. Do you set your expression as "global, preset, or snapshot"? FWIW I set mine as global so there is a constant communication flow between the expression and the Helix.... no interruption of presets and/or snapshot settings to "possibly" corrupt the values. I doubt that would matter, but I've convinced myself it might :) The internal expression is photo (light) sensitive. I have problems outdoors because light gets in and wreaks havoc on my position/setting. Check the lighting position around the placement of the helix.

Prior to the Helix, Line 6 used to provide a "model gallery" that was often insightful and humorous at the same time. HelixHelp.com (already mentioned above is a great resource.....) Also - I found this old thread from 2016 quite interesting when I first got my Helix. This covers the early amps, then the release notes for each update covers the new ones incrementally. https://line6.com/support/topic/19961-helix-amp-model-gallery-real-controls-vs-invented/ The Helix controls are quite good at simulating the "real thing"... so when you want to know how a product works, you can always look up a video of the real product. EG: If you don't know how the RAT pedals work, go watch a video about the RAT - then apply it to the Helix. If you don't know how the Dr Z Route 66 Amp works, go watch a video on using a real Route 66. Don't worry about not knowing it all too quickly. Get what you NEED in place, then take your time on this wonderful journey.

You can overwrite any preset in any location.... he obviously re-wrote his acoustic models with special tunings. You need to download the original presets for the 1st Gen Variax and load those into the guitar through Workbench. Or there is one simple options..... open the "de-tuned" acoustic in Workbench, remove the special tunings, and save it back in it's original location. Repeat for any model that seems to have been adjusted. IIRC the only proper way to re-flash the guitar is through Monkey.... and I honestly don't remember if it loads factory presets or not. I seem to recall you could update the firmware without overwriting your guitar..... which would suggest NO, it does not reload factory presets. It's been a long, long time since I've done that.