rd2rk

No problem here. Running LIVE 12.1 and Reaper 7.27. Maybe try uninstall/reinstall HX Edit? That will get you the latest ASIO version.

Yes. You also need to update HX Edit.

The wah/volume/exp pedal (Soulpress II) was suggested IN ADDITION to the Ampero Control, since I've read that other expression pedal options have trouble calibrating with the Ampero Control, and who doesn't need a WAH? But you already have a WAH, as do I, so the Soulpress is not essential. I'll let you know how it stacks up. I installed the Ampero editor on my iPhone long ago, and it looks pretty easy to use.

If you do decide on an FCB1010, be aware that using the stock chip is limiting. Better alternative below. While it CAN be configured to send toggling CC#, the LEDs will NOT reflect the ON/OFF status. Either try to find one that has already had the UNO Chip Mod, or factor that into your purchase. Also, regardless of that, get the UNO_ControlCenter Editor. Without it, programming the FCB is MADDENING! In addition to the MIO (IN connector goes to device OUT and vice versa) you'll need the camera kit. The link below is what I use. My iPad/iPhone have lightning connectors. You may need to look for the proper connectors if yours does not have Lightning. This kit/hub has two type A camera connectors, one for the MIO and one for the Cat60. It also has a Power connector. This allows you to keep the iPad/iPhone charged while in use. iOS Lightning Camera Kit/Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T913J3D?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Here's links to the UNO chip and Editor. Note that the Editor works with the stock FCB Chip as well as the UNO chip: UNO Chip: https://www.fcb1010.eu/ UNO_ControlCenter: https://www.fcb1010.uno/ I use AUM for the iOS MIDI routing because it has a lot of other capabilities, but there's also an app called MIDIFLOW which just does MIDI, but in that context has more functions than AUM, akin to classic MIDI utilities like MIDIOX. HAVING SAID ALL OF THAT... The FCB1010 with UNO is quite capable, and if you NEED to have 10 switches available at all times it is probably the most economical choice. HOWEVER - it is BIG, UGLY and somewhat limited in its capabilities. The UNO chip adds functionality, and the UNO2 chip does away with almost all of those limitations, but programming UNO2 is actual programming, not a GUI interface like UNO_ControlCenter. It's not a complex programming language, and if you have programming experience (I do), it's NBD, but if not, it can be daunting. Look at this instead: Ampero Control: https://www.hotone.com/products/controlers/Ampero Control Advantages - you don't need the MIO cheaper and as powerful as the FCB/UNO2 small and flexible - connect via standard MIDI, USB or BT (I do not recommend BT, I find it undependable. YMMV) useful beyond the requirements of the Catalyst get a HOTONE wah/volume/exp pedal and do it all MUCH cheaper/smaller than FCB/UNO/ControlCenter/MIO easy to program via iPhone or Android I do not have one of these, as I have many other MIDI controllers and a Cat100, but I WANT one, just because. If you get it from Amazon or some other seller with a good returns policy, it's minimum risk. My mouse is hovering over the BUY button on Amazon... I just bought it! Arrives Friday! If you want to hold off until after the weekend, I'll report on it!

The attached .mid track was also created in Reaper, but I used a different method. Instead of manually placing the PC messages in the track, I recorded the changes as I played along to the backing track. All I recorded was preset changes, but the instructions below will allow you to record everything. Set Reaper to use your Helix as MIDI Input and Output devices. Set Helix Global Settings>MIDI>MIDI Over USB=ON, MIDI PC Send=USB, MIDI PC Receive=USB, Snapshot CC Send=ON. To record toggling of FX within presets you'll need to set the MIDI BYPASS of the FS assigned to those FX to a CC#, then in Command Center, set the FS to SEND that CC# as a toggling CC. Create an audio track by dragging your backing track into Reaper. Create a MIDI track to record MIDI from Helix. Set the Track RECORD MONITOR setting to AUTO. Route the Output of the MIDI track to Helix. Arm the MIDI Track and start recording. Play along and switch presets/Snapshots as required. After recording, disarm the MIDI Track and start PLAYBACK, playing along without manually switching presets. If all goes well, SELECT the MIDI Track, go to FILE>Export Project MIDI>Selected Tracks Only. Click OK and note where it's being saved to. You should be able to import that .mid track to your device and hopefully it should sync to your backing track. Hopefully I described all the steps correctly, it's late here in Colorado! Helix.mid

Just for kicks I DL'd NanoHost. I couldn't get it to load Native VST2. Nor would Reaper even see it, though the VST3 works fine. The only real reason to use the VST2 version is in your use case. I would contact support, though I suspect that would not result in a satisfactory resolution. Try the Free version of Cantabile if you just want a standalone HOST, but It's probably time to install a lightweight DAW like Reaper. Reaper has a FREE unlimited trial and only nags at startup. It's only $60 for a lifetime license.

During the install process you're given the option of installing VST2. It is NOT installed by default, you need to check the box, and if you don't already have a VstPlugins directory you need to create it: C:\ProgramFiles\VstPlugins

Returns are MONO. Set the INPUT BLOCK to a Stereo FX Return (1/2 or 3/4) and put a splitter on your TRS cable.

They're all in there but with different names. Why they haven't changed this page to reflect that is anybody's guess.

Read the Release Notes?

In order to use MIDI over USB, there MUST be a HOST device. Chocolate is NOT a HOST. As I've posted elsewhere, if you have an iPhone or iPad you can use the camera kit and AUM to route MIDI from any USB Controller to the Cat60. I have tested this using my FCB1010 with iConnectivity MIDI to USB cable. Works great. IDK about Androids, I don't allow them in my house.

It would be helpful to know what "external backingtrack Player device" you are using. This is easily done using most any DAW.

Catalyst is 4ohm. Being SS vs tube, it might not matter, but I would contact support at both L6 and MT before attempting this mod. https://musician.tools/boss-katana-mki-mkii-combo-amp-external-speaker-mod-v2 The KatCab V2 External Speaker Mod will allow your Katana combo amp to have an option to use the internal speaker and connect external speaker cabinet(s). KatCab V2 options: 1. Internal speaker 2. External speaker 3. Internal & External speaker 4. External & External speaker Will work with: • Katana 50 MKI, MKII, MKII EX & Gen3 • Katana 100 MKI, MKII & Gen3 • Katana 100 212 MKI, MKII & Gen3 It is wired in Series. Example, built-in speaker 8 Ohms, external speaker 8 Ohms, total 16 Ohms. Total Ohms for all connected speakers should be between 8 Ohms to 16 Ohms. Check manufacturer technical specs.

For use with IEMs/silent stage you can put the Attenuator switch on the 0watt setting. That cuts out the Cat's speaker so that the only output is the XLR. NOTE: I have seen many complaints that the XLR Out is too hot for some less than talented FOH "engineers" to deal with. Indeed, if your presets are optimized for max volume when using the Cat by itself, it is VERY HOT! To accommodate this situation I have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J1JKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Works great!

ALL of your options work. I would start with Option 3 but see below for more possibilities. The effects on the HD are fine, it's the amps/cabs that are not so great. AFAICT from the HD500X manual, its MIDI capabilities should allow you to do most everything you need to do on the Catalyst. I use my Cat100 with my Helix Floor. The main things missing from the HD MIDI are the Instant Commands (which are sent at Preset and Snapshot load), Snapshots (multiple variations of an existing preset) and FS CC Toggle assignments do not automatically send at preset load. Again, AFAICT. The Cat (with the latest FW) provides 12 amps, 12 presets and the ability to use two FX at a time plus NG and Boost. I use the NG/BOOST/Amps/Cabs/Delay and Reverb FX on the Cat with the WAH/COMPRESSOR/OD/DIST/MOD FX coming from the Helix. Since I can send as many as 22 concurrent commands on preset load and 8 on Snapshot change, I have a lot more flexibility than you'll have with the HD, but mostly all I use MIDI for is to change the presets, and in order to have more FS control of the Helix FX, I also use the two button FS, mostly to toggle the Boost/Delay, as I usually have some sort of always on Reverb on every preset. IIRC (I owned a POD HD500X briefly), you'll want to set the OUTPUT to "Combo Front/Stack Front" WITHOUT a preamp. Although you might TRY a preamp for the AIAB type effect. Again, IIRC, this is a GLOBAL selection, so maybe not. If you have HD500X AMP presets that you like, you can wire your setup in 4cm. By using a FS to toggle the FX Loop on the Cat (CC#107, Value of 0 = OFF). This will send the output of a preset (w/o an FX Loop Block) directly to the Cat's Power Amp. With the Cat's MODE switch in the FX Loop position you'll still have the Cat's two FX in the circuit (if they are set to the POST position). Using the MODE switch in the POWER AMP IN position removes the Cat's FX and applies a 6db level cut to accommodate a potentially too hot signal. You'll need to experiment to see what works best for you. NOTE that when using the Cat like this you should disable the CAB on the HD500X, but, if that's not possible (I do not recall), you might find that the Cat's speaker sounds just fine with the HD's cab emulation. I sometimes use mine with Helix presets that include IRs, or my ToneX pedal using FULL amp/cab captures, and it actually (to my ears) sounds better than using DIRECT (sans cab) captures. Again, experiment and HAVE FUN!

It's an Eminence speaker designed by L6 to sound good with all of the included amp types, from Fender-ish clean to 5150-ish hi-gain. It is NOT FRFR as it does not have a tweeter, neither coaxial (like the Powercabs) nor separate like the Fender TM FRFR cabs and most other guitar oriented FRFRs. I sometimes use mine with my ToneX pedal, with full (including speaker) captures, and it sounds fine. I also use it with my Helix, the presets on which have either the L6 IRs, or York IRs. All sound very AITR-ish with the Cat. Not at all like using those through, for example, my VHT Sp6 with a Celestion, which sounds awful with IRs. I suspect that it's a bit wider frequency than a typical guitar speaker without being truly Full Range, and it's definitely not Flat Response, it's tuned for guitar. IOW - it's special! I can't honestly comment on gigging, as I haven't used it for that. I can tell you that my Cat100, on the 100watt setting, EASILY blows past 100db. I'd get evicted if I tried to dime it, and I'd need ear surgery if I tried that w/o earplugs! If that's not loud enough to get you thrown out of your local bar, then just connect the XLR out to your FOH rig. The on-board speaker emulations (1, 2 and 4x12 cabs) and 16 mic choices sound really good through my 1000watt HR FRFR112 (which I sometimes use in combination with the Cat for a fuller sound at lower Volume) or my studio monitors, even if you can't move the mics around. Your audience will not be disappointed. If that's not good enough, like, for recording, disable the speaker emulations and run it through an IR loader with the IRs of your choice. The bad news - it does not have an external speaker out, so your standard guitar cab ain't gonna get it. To use your FRFR112s you'd need a power amp such as a Duncan Powerstage or the like, as the XLR Out is Line Level and separate from the Master Volume. XLR Out Volume is controlled by the Channel Volume, which is interactive with the Master for the physical amp's output level, so I just use the Channel Volume to level the presets and then control the XLR Out level at the power amp. The additional EQ on the Powerstage would help with fine tuning the FRFR112 rig for different rooms, but any Class D or PA power amp will do.

If MIDI Designer can receive MIDI and assign an incoming CC/Value to that specific slider, then you need to determine the MIDI CC and Value that results in 0db on the slider, then assign an IC to send that CC/Value. EX: Slider CC = X; CC Value Y = 0db; IC1 MIDI CC = X with Value Y EDIT: You might still get a momentary volume spike because MIDI transmission is subject to a small amount of latency. Only way to know is to try it.

Save the preset with the effect OFF.

You have two switches, one of which needs to be set as A/B. The "CHANNELS" are actually PRESETS. They will always load as they were SAVED. You need to decide what's more important to be able to toggle - DELAY or BOOST.

All the MIDI Mongoose does is switch presets. You may be able to find chocolate bullets...

The FS assignments are GLOBAL. They can't be re-assigned per preset. To do what you want requires MIDI. You bought the 60 (no DIN ports), so you'd need a MIDI controller that acts as a USB HOST (might cost as much or more than the amp) or a HOST box and regular controller. If you have an iPhone or iPad that will work with AUM, you can use a dual camera kit hub and route from any basic midi controller thru AUM. You would need something like this: Amazon.com: rosyclo Lightning Hub iPad Adapter, 6-in-1 Lightning to HDMI Digital AV Converter, TF & SD Card Reader, USB Camera Adapter, Power Delivery Compatible with iPhone, iPad and More USB Devices : Electronics Or you can use one of these: USB MIDI Host Box - DOREMiDi WARNING - make sure that it's bi-directional. If you're not gigging, you can simply route it thru your computer using a DAW or a MIDI utility like MIDI-OX. Either way, you'll need a MIDI Floor Controller, preferably capable of sending multiple messages per press. Something like this: Amazon.com: Paint Audio MIDI Captain NANO 4 Foot Controller Multi-Effects Keyboards Synthesizer USB-MIDI DAW DSP Software USB-HID Support Multi-state Switch Cycling (MIDI Captain NANO 4) : Musical Instruments ***Avoid BT controllers. There's somebody out there who'll swear that they work fine, but my experience is that they are not dependable. So, altogether around $125-150 + cables. FWIW - I have a Cat100 and a Helix, so I just use that. I have also tested the iPhone/iPad configuration I mentioned, using just the Cat's USB port and my FCB1010, and it worked great.

Place it between the guitar and the Stomp Input. This could compromise the Auto Impedance feature, but if you're not using any HXS FX that use <1M Impedance, no loss. OR Place it between the HXS SEND and your amp's Input. You'll need to use the Fortin's FS to toggle it (unless the fortin has MIDI). OR Waste a Block for a second FX Loop.

Make sure that you are running the latest FW. Perform a Factory reset (backup first!). If that doesn't help, contact support.

Again, and also in the referenced thread, I explained how the Power Amp In/FX Loop switch works, and why. You SOLD your Catalyst. That was the correct thing to do. It's WAY too complex a device for you. Move on.

First, this is a user to user support forum Nobody from L6 hangs out here If you really want to get your message to the L6 engineers, post your suggestion here: Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) BUT... before you do that, explain in detail what you are attempting to do. There's probably a simple workaround.