rd2rk

Yes, I know, I'm saying I'm surprised since every other HX family device uses that CC to call the tuner. Certainly, an oversight IMO.

I did a little test today. Using the .5watt setting with the "Clarity" (clean) amp, all parameters at noon and Noise Gate OFF. I tested both my Affinity HSS Strat on the HB (not a high output pickup) and my PRS Acoustic. I'm getting over 10 seconds sustain on both guitars. If you, with the same settings, still aren't getting any sustain, I'd look at the Variax. The problem is certainly NOT the Catalyst.

Did you turn off the noise gate?

Hmmm...I could've sworn it used the same CC#68 as all of the other HX family devices. Learn something new everyday!

Make sure that the noise gate is off. You're playing an emulation of an acoustic guitar. How much sustain are you expecting? Unnaturally long sustain is a result of the compression achieved using hi-gain amps or pedals. That's not (normally) something you do for an acoustic sound. I don't use compressors, and they usually (IME) add dirt, but you might research which compressors are considered to be "clean".

Guitar>HXFX>Send 1>ToneX In>ToneX Stereo Out>Polyend Stereo In>Polyend Stereo Out>HXFX Return Stereo 1/2. This will work unless you want some HXFX between the TX and Poly. If this won't work for you, be SPECIFIC about your goals.

Time to open a support ticket.

Back up your presets in HX Edit, then perform a Factory Reset. If that doesn't work, re-install the FW using the Line6Updater and the latest version (3.80). FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY! Line 6 - Link to SW Downloads if you don't already have the Updater Reset Options #Helix Floor/LT Button Combination Description 2 LED light Fun 3 & 4 Test Mode 5 & 6 Global reset 7 & 8 Reset setlists to factory, Keep IRs 8 & 9 Reset setlists to factory, Clear IRs 9 & 10 Reset setlists to factory, Global reset, Clear IRs 10 & 11 Upgrades existing presets to latest format 11 & 12 Clear current preset 5 & 12 Clear setlists, clear IRs, Return system settings to default 6 & 12 Safe boot mode To use Reset Options: Power off the Helix Hold the desired button combination Power on the Helix Release the button combination Please note: Buttons are numbered from top left to bottom right.

Configuration/wiring is the same on HXFX as Helix.

If any of those pedals worked in the VH4 FX loop, and the Helix doesn't work configured as I first suggested: AND you've read the Helix and VH4 manuals, then yes, you should perform a Factory Reset and sell the Helix.

I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU READ THE DIEZEL VH4 MANUAL!!! Section 3.2 contains a VERY detailed explanation of the FX Loop functions! Up until now you've been flying paper airplanes. You're trying to move to an F-35! READ THE MANUAL! VH4&VH4S_Manual_05062024.pdf If I understand you correctly, you don't want any effects (such as modulations - phaser, flanger, trem/vib) BEFORE the DZ Preamp. All you want is some time-based effects between the pre and power amp. Sell the Helix, get a couple of TC Electronics Hall of Fame pedals (delay/reverb) and spend the difference on wine, women and song. If you'd prefer to continue to under-utilize your Helix (still better than the above TCE solution), take the SEND 1 from the DZ into the Helix Input (INSTRUMENT LEVEL) and the Helix Left Mono Out (INSTRUMENT LEVEL) to the DZ RETURN A SERIAL. Place your time-based FX blocks in the signal path between the Input and Output. I'm going to assume that you are playing HEAVY METAL music. Maximum GAIN. For the sake of clarity, if you are using both reverb and delay, place them in PARALLEL. When all of your delay repeats are drenched in reverb (as when the FX are in SERIAL) your sound turns to MUD. The simplest way to do this is to split the Helix signal path (RTM) and place the Reverb in PATH A and the Delay in Path B. You can then use the LEVEL and MIX controls in the individual FX blocks and the MIX Block (where the two paths merge back into one) to fine tune the FX to taste. Your wiring remains the same UNLESS you want to mix the un-effected DZ Preamp signal with the effected signal from the Helix. In that case you would use the RETURN A PARALLEL instead of the RETURN A SERIAL and control the MIX from the rear panel FX Loop Parallel VOLUME control. Did I mention that I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU READ THE DIEZEL VH4 MANUAL!!!? If, at some point, you decide to take full advantage of the capabilities of your Helix, read the Helix manual's section on "Four Cable Method" (4cm). Even METAL music uses things like WAH (Kirk Hammet?), flangers and phasers. Just sayin'.

Been a long time since I've allowed Cakewalk on my system, but from what I recall, I would: Change the DRIVER MODE to ASIO - not sure if related but better than WASAPI re latency. Keep in mind that ODD numbered channels go LEFT, EVEN numbered channels go RIGHT. IOW - USB Channel 1 is the Helix LEFT channel, 2 is RIGHT. OK, I was curious what's new in Bandlab Cakewalk land, the new SONAR version, so I installed the FREE version. Set DRIVER MODE to ASIO. Track Input to Helix 1+2 S. Set up a simple Helix Preset - Amp+Cab, Ping-Pong Delay, Stereo Room Rvb. As you can see below, it's recording in STEREO.

I'm not going to re-type my explanation/refutation of your nonsense assertions. If anybody believes this guy, tag me and I'll link to the LENGTHY discussion that he hopes nobody is skilled enough at SEARCH to find for themselves. The short version - there's a SWITCH. In one position it IS attenuated. In the other position it is NOT attenuated. It's an OPTION. The long version explains the reasoning.

Still trying to sell that BS? You realize that post is 10 months old? Getting desperate for a sale? Got a Katana on CL that won't move? Still rockin' my Catalyst. Still sounds great. Of course, I know how it works... I've explained it to you multiple times, you just don't want to hear it. No matter how many times you say it, you're still WRONG!

On the Helix HW there's a Global setting in PREFERENCES called SNAPSHOT EDITS with the options to RECALL (edits are temporarily SAVED until you switch presets) and DISCARD (edits are NOT saved). It appears that in NATIVE the default is DISCARD and I don't see any way to change it other than to uncheck SNAPSHOT BYPASS, but then changing the SNAPSHOT back to the unmodified version won't restore the block's SAVED state for that SS. Your best bet is to set block ON/OFF status PER SS.

1 - add a GAIN block at the end of the chain set to the amount of boost you want and toggle it ON in that SS. 2 - set the Output Block Level to Snapshot Control and add the desired boost amount in that Snapshot. Remember to set it to the default in the other Snapshots.

Need more info. What EXACTLY are you trying to do? How EXACTLY do you have Command Center configured? How EXACTLY are you wired? Are both devices set to the same MIDI Channel?

That should only work if you're already in the proper Setlist. As long as that works for you, cool, but if it was me I'd want to know what was causing the problem in the first place.

While we're waiting for @datacommando, a couple of things. I've assumed that you are using the Reaper MIDI Editor to hand enter the MIDI events vs using an external controller to RECORD the MIDI events. There may have been some confusion over that. Try this. Place a MIDI Monitor on the Native track to see EXACTLY what is being sent to Native from the MIDI track. Take a screenshot of the MIDI Monitor so we can see exactly what is being sent. While it LOOKS like you have the Event List correctly configured to change to Setlist 3, maybe in this case confirmation might help track down the problem. *If your MIDI Monitor doesn't diisplay in decimal by default, see if there's a switch to make it do that. Translating from HEX is not a big deal, just annoying. EDIT: Factory 1 is by default Setlist 1 - CC#32 Value 0. User1 is by default Setlist 3 - CC#32 Value 2. The screen recording looks like it's starting in Setlist 3, then switching to Setlist 1. In both Setlists it's landing on Preset 10. This is not what your screenshot of the Event list is telling it to do, so something else is going on. Please follow my suggestion re the MIDI Monitor screenshot.

The clip light indicates that the PC's Input circuit is clipping, not the modeler's Output. *** That signal level (the modeler's Output) is what goes to FOH from the XLR. The PC's Volume knob has no effect on the level to FOH, only the PC's speaker output. IOW - the PC's XLR out is the same level as running the XLR direct from the modeler to FOH. LINE level is higher than MIC level, so to get the hottest signal to FOH use LINE from the PC. Some less than quality boards and some less than competent engineers might think that's too hot. It should not be a problem for a modern board and a basically competent engineer, but what can you do? If the SOUND GOD says it's too hot, switch the PC's Output Level to MIC. The INPUT LEVEL setting on the PC is used to compensate the signal from the modeler to the PC's INPUTS (analog only, no effect on the digital input). If it's set at 0db and the modeler's output can light up the clip light, you're good. If the modeler's Output Level at MAX won't light the Clip LED you turn up the INPUT LEVEL to compensate. That won't affect the XLR, but you may need to set the XLR Out level to LINE to get sufficient level to FOH. I can't imagine that a dimed Powercab can't handle stage levels unless your band's drummer is channeling Bonham with a stadium sized kit and the other guitarist is diming a 100w full stack trying to outgun the bass player's SVT fridge. If this is your normal scenario, your Powercab might only be a small part of the problem - you might need a good audiologist! *** Clean signals are less compressed than distorted signals - the dynamic range is wider. The MOMENTARY PEAKS are what triggers the Clip light, but like any noise floor phenomenon, it's easier to HEAR the nasty digital distortion on an already distorted signal. OTOH, if the clean signal is ALWAYS in the clip zone you SHOULD be able to hear it, I sure do! - it really is NASTY! While this doesn't appear on the XLR, it WILL be apparent on the USB. Try cranking it up and recording it in a DAW.

Ummm... We're talking about the Line 6 POWERCAB. Not PERSONAL COMPUTERS. Context is everything.

Yes, I'm aware. As I said, I didn't know that Reaper could run the AU version even on a MAC. I have used the AAX version with ProTools, but I hate ProTools and, TBH, having the HW Helix, I only ever use Native for re-amping. But FWIW - changing SetLists and Presets works fine in ProTools with Native AAX.

TBH, I was wondering how you got Preset Changes to work at all. I didn't even know you could run the AU (MAC) version in Reaper, I thought that only worked in Logic. Since I'm on a PC I tested this on my physical Helix. When I try it in Reaper it doesn't work because Program Changes on VST/VST3 are not supported. @datacommando- you're a MAC dude, can you help this guy?

Your .mov link isn't found and your attachment is .php which is not supported. In the MIDI Event Editor go to ACTIONS and select "Insert bank/program select event. Enter the LSB (that means CC#32) VALUE (SetList#). Enter the Program #. If that doesn't work attach a screenshot of the Reaper MIDI Event Editor. Below toggles between two setlists and presets.

CC#0/32 are the MIDI specifiers for a BANK(SetList in Helix speak) change. A VALUE is required to specify the BANK/SetList#. Some devices use CC#0, some use CC#32, some respond to either. CC#32 tells Helix that the VALUE provided is the BANK/SetList#. You then follow with a PC# to specify the Preset in the specified BANK/SetList. CC#32 Value 0 = SetList 1 CC#32 Value 5 = SetList 6