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RockettCrawford last won the day on August 6 2013

RockettCrawford had the most liked content!

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About RockettCrawford

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    Just Startin'

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    Dallas, Texas
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    Lead Guitarist/Lead Vocalist for Dallas area rock band "Bogart"
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  1. Obviously by "decomposed" you're talking about your speakers and rightly so. I'd hold back on the volume and you should be fine.
  2. I've never personally seen a 1/4 inch jack that didn't require soldering. You're probably going to need to borrow someone's soldering iron to do this. You'll first need to determine the ohms that your amplifier head is expecting for the speakers. There is usually either a switch where you can select different ohmages (4 ohms, 8 ohms, 16 ohms) or jacks on the back of your amplifier head that are each labeled 4 ohms, 8 ohms or 16 ohms. These need to match the speaker ohms. Since you have two 8 ohm speakers you can either wire your cabinet as 4 ohms or 16 ohms. So you need to find out if your amplifier head is expecting either of those. Your 4 cables should be 2 wires coming from each speaker. Somewhere either on the terminals that the wires hook into the speaker or on the wires themselves, it should say positive or negative (+ or -). For 4 ohms you want to wire your two 8 ohm speakers in parallel. To do this combine the positive (+) wires from each of the speakers together and also combine the negative (-) wires together. Take the positive wires that you combined and solder them to the "tip" terminal on the 1/4 inch jack. That's the one that connects them to the end part of the plug when it's plugged in. Then solder the negative (-) wires to the "ring" terminal that connects to the longer part of the plug when it's plugged in. If your amplifier head instead needs16 ohms then you need to combine the speakers in series. Solder the positive (+) wire from one speaker to the negative (-) wire of the other speaker and wrap that up in electrical tape. Then take the other positive (+) wire and solder that to the "tip" terminal of the 1/4 inch jack. Then solder the other negative (-) wire to the "ring" terminal of the jack.
  3. Alright. I'm always looking out for better tones. I'll check them out. Sure am glad that people share their tones.
  4. Putting an ohmeter on speaker leads (disconnected from electronics of course) will give you something close to it's actual ohmmage. Close enough to determine if it's 8 or 16 ohms.
  5. Load up your bundle into Spider IV Edit by clicking "File->Load Bundle". Then click on the preset that you want to load into CustomTone and click "File->Save As" and save that preset into it's own preset file. Then you can upload that file into Customtone.
  6. When you get the tone the way you want, hold down the channel button that you want to store it in (A, B, C or D) for a few seconds until all 4 channel buttons start flashing and it'll be saved on that channel.
  7. Yes, just buy a 1/4 inch jack and connect the speakers to it. Your speakers are likely 8 ohms each. You can check this by hooking up an ohmmeter to the speaker leads. If it's 8 ohms each and you need 4 ohms then hook both of the sets of wires together (be sure and combine the two positive (+) wires together and the two negative (-) wires together). This will be a parallel arrangement that'll give you 4 ohms for your tube head. If you need 16 ohms then hook one speaker's negative (-) wire to the other speaker's positive (+) wire. The other two wires left will be your negative and positive leads for the jack. Solder the positive wire to the "tip" and the negative wire to the ring of the 1/4 inch jack so the polarity is correct. If you also need the spider's electronics to work with your speakers when your not using it as a speaker cab, then you can get a "defeating" jack that will disconnect your spider's electronics when you plug your tube head into it.
  8. I bet that's a good decision. Haven't ever played through a 75, but it seems to have exactly the same of everything that the 120 and 150 have anyway. The stereo speakers of the 150 on chorus and stereo echo is pretty cool, but not that big of a deal.
  9. The HD here only stands for "head." My understanding is that it has exactly the same amp modeling, efx, etc... as the spider iv 150, 120 and 75 combos (although the 75 is mono, not stereo). It is confusing though that Line 6 uses HD for two different designations for their products.
  10. Whatever. Like I said, I own both the POD HD500 and a Spider IV HD150 head. Can't tell the difference in the model or effects quality. I actually like the Hi gain green (Diezel Herbert) on the HD150 better than any of the POD HD500 amp models which is why I use it.
  11. I love the stereo sound from my hd150. The stereo echo is good and the chorus is incredible. I could be wrong, but I think that's one advantage that the HD150 and the 150 and 120 watt combo spider amps have even over the tube versions.
  12. FWIW the 120 actually has 2x10 speakers instead of 2x12. The 150 combo has 2x12 speakers.
  13. I do have a HD500 board which does definitely have the hd modeling and It doesn't seem to be any better than the amp modeling on all of my spider IVs including the little 15 watt (which is why I use my HD150's modeling instead of the HD500 board when I gig) so I had just assumed that line 6 had incorporated their best modeling into all of their products. Also Line 6's mention of the modeling for the Spider IVs as having "the best sounding amp models we've ever made" fed my assumption that the best amp models Line 6 have ever made were incorporated into the Spider IVs which I would assume were the HD amp models, but apparently not.
  14. I agree. My Marshall 4x12 is a closed back and it definitely thumps better. Sounds a lot louder tho, so I use the 2x12 open back cabinet in situations where the band can't crank.
  15. The Flextone uses an earlier Line 6 modeling. The newer "HD" modeling is supposed to contain 10 times more information than previous modeling and be more accurate to the amps being modeled. The Spider IV has the HD modeling. I would hold out for the Spider IV.
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