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pheld

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  1. Let me know if I should open a new thread instead of resurrecting this old one, but the above is what I experience too except that swapping cables make no difference. My G90 has acted up producing horrible pink-noise some 10-20 times in the 4-5 years I've used it. When it happens the noise is only emitted when the transmitter is on, but my testing(below) clearly isolate the problem to come from the receiver. I have not been able to isolate an exact cause, but I have been able to rule out certain things. The unit is being used with a Kemper amp-sim, and is normally connected to the Kempers alternate input. When the problem occur I have never been able to resolve it other than leaving the unit off for a while. I usually resort to a using a regular cable and find that the G90 works fine next time i try it, a few hours or days later. It may be worth noticing that for me the problem always has appeared when the transmitter has been turned on after a pause/break (10+min) during which the receiver has been left on. The noise has never started while playing. Testing: Changing channels makes no difference. Swapping the transmitter and or instrument2transmitter-cable makes no difference. My transmitter works fine on a different receiver (G50/55). I have never had access to another G90-receiver for test when I've had these problems. Power-cycling the G90 makes no difference. Replacing the patch-cord from the receiver to the amp makes no difference, yet plugging the patch-cord directly into the guitar works fine. I've seen other people with the same problem suggesting on forums that moving out of reach with the transmitter active may trigger this problem, but anything intermittent should at least be solved by power-cycling the unit. I also find it hard to believe that such a problem would not be caught in product testing. My remaining theory is that it either is some kind of environmental (radio/electromagnetic) interference causing this, or that something happens within the G90 so that it ends up in a bad state that takes a long time to clear. It should be next to impossible to inject noise into the encrypted stream between a digital transmitter and receiver. It would have to be something that directly affect the receiver. At a public venue just about every person present is carrying a radio-unit (smartphone) operating at nearby frequencies, but I have also experienced the problem at home. I live in the middle of nowhere and tried to turn off any 2.4GHz-gear in the building when the noise appeared, but that made no difference. For a while i suspected a ground-issue in the receiver because I once noticed that the power-cord was not properly seated in the receiver when it happened and that re-seating the cable and power-cycling unit seemed to fix the problem. However, I have since experienced the problem regardless of whether the unit is connected to a grounded outlet or not, and regardless of whether the power is supplied directly from the wall-outlet or via one of my Furman power-conditioners. I don't have a XD-V75 which according to the documentation I've seen is required (horrible design) to upgrade the firmware in the G90-receiver. I do however believe that my G90 is more recent than the last firmware I've found that is issued in 2012.
  2. I'm curious about how the new line stacks up quality-wise. I owned a JTV59 for about a year, and loved its versatility as a backing instrument. The electronics however was horribly unreliable. In particular the model-selector-knob just never lasted long. Its construction seemed pretty weak. My guitar spent most of its time in workshop, or waiting for parts to be delivered. In addition to repairs I received 2 replacements, but all had the same problem and I finally gave up. My hope is that some of Yamaha's attention to factory-standards and build-quality has rubbed off on L6. For now I'll hang out and keep an eye on peoples experience with the new product-line through the forums, but I may get one if it turns out to be significantly improved.
  3. I can only speak for myself, but in my experience that is not the case. The on/off push-switch gets stuck when pushed in any but one or two of the rotary positions. It gets stuck even if you operate it with without the plastic knob on the shaft so it is definitely a problem inside the switch itself.
  4. I'm in Norway. Yes, service levels seems to vary between locations, but there's no excuse for not selling spares. Even a ship doesn't take 3 months or more to bring parts from Korea to anywhere in the world. My fear is to be stuck with an instrument that is impossible to repair once the warranty runs out.
  5. 1. It may depreciate a bit faster than a classic model/brand, but it's not bad. 2. There seems to be bit of variation in quality, or maybe I was unlucky with my first. The 5 upper frets on strings 1-3 were unusable due to buzz. I had to send it off for fret levelling (plek). The electronics are supposedly the same on both Korean and US-made models. 3. I'm a sceptic wrt repairs. Parts availability is questionable and may also vary a lot between locations. I've been told by my supplier that L6 is very restrictive wrt the distribution of parts and will only deliver parts to approved workshops. The electronics broke on my first JTV-59 within a few weeks. It took almost 4 months before I got a replacement. The distributors workshop was unable to fix it, which can only mean they had no access to parts. I got a new guitar under warranty, but that won't be possible once the warranty runs out. The replacement guitar was broken on arrival and I'm waiting to have it fixed or replaced again. I've been able to use the guitar for about 3 weeks in the 6 months I've owned it. I could have used it most of the time if I could have had access to parts to fix it myself as I do with the rest of my collection. 4. I like the neck. It is almost as chunky as my '89 LPC (50s neck-shape) and slightly wider which works well for finger-style. 5. It's a real guitar all-right. As a regular guitar, with magnetic pickups, it compares to other well-made Korean models such as the PRS SE-series. Then you've got the variax-electronics as a "bonus". The magnetic pickups are a bit hot if you are after classic LP-tones, but they can be swapped with whatever HBs you prefer. At this point I'm on the fence wrt whether I'm going to keep the guitar or get my money back. The reason I got it was to be able to manage with just one guitar on a few occasions. It defeats the purpose if it is so unreliable that I always have to bring another acoustic and electric for backup.
  6. If that is the case I wonder why my first JTV59 could not be repaired. I had spent $400 on a plek-job (fret levelling) so I told the distributor I really preferred to have it repaired instead of getting a new one. I also had a look inside, and the modular construction with little ribbon-connected circuitboards makes it trivial to repair if there are spares available. It took them 3-1/2 months to produce a replacement which should be more than enough time to ship parts all the way from Korea to Europe by boat if necessary.
  7. I've notices this issue, but it isn't the problem I've got. The switch sticks in the down-position, and operating it even without a knob on the shaft changes nothing. Raising the knob on the shaft wont change a thing. When stuch it can be pulled back out without too much force. It is only in the custom1-position that the on/off-switch pops back out by itself. I hoped it would get better with some wear, but after a few weeks it only seems to get worse.
  8. I've yet again received a faulty JTV59 (stuck push-switch on the model selector). A previous guitar with a dead variax-circuit was written off as unrepairable by the L6 distributor. Repairing it should have been very simple with access to spares so this can only mean that even a L6-partner distributor is unable to get parts. Where does this leave a variax-owner once the warranty runs out? I'm hoping that someone with some insight into the L6 logistics-chain can contribute some information about the availability of spare-parts. Although I like the guitar when it works I see no point in hanging on to an instrument that can not be repaired (preferably by myself as with the rest of my guitar collection) in the future if necessary. I may ask for my money back instead of a repair/replacement this time.
  9. JTV-59 #1 (April 2013): Needed fret levelling ($350 plek job) to get rid of buzz. Lasted 3.5 weeks, then the variax-circuit died. 4 months wait for a replacement. Official L6 distributor was unable to repair the guitar. They were in fact not able to get spares. JTV-59 #2 (September 2013): Neck and fretwork on this one is perfect. On-off switch in the model-selector gets stuck when pressed in most positions other than custom1. No obstructions around the knob or shaft so the problem is inside the switch. Was hoping it would get better with some use, but after 2 weeks it is only getting worse. When the guitar works it does what I expected it to. Modelling can't compete with the real thing, but in many settings it works fine. Magnetic pickups, although a tad hot, works well and makes this a viable alternative to a LP with modelling turned off. Wrt construcion and sound I'd give it 4/5. Factory QC and the distributors customer service otoh deserves no points at all.
  10. If they want to be that restrictive maybe L6 should act responsibly and find a distributor for their products that offer decent service. In my country they've made the worst possible choice and most people I know avoid all products (not just l6) handled by this distributor. When my 3rd JTV-59 arrives 4 months from now I will have enjoyed playing the instrument for 4 weeks in 9 months. That hardly counts as a recommendation to potential buyers.
  11. I didn't ask for genuine parts to be carried by the local hobbystore. I'm requesting spare parts from Line6. The repairer in my case is the national distributor of line6 products. If they can't handle it I'd have to ship the guitar abroad, and then we're looking at repair-costs of $500-1000 or even more for an instrument that was broken as it left the factory.
  12. I just received a JTV-59 with a bad model selector switch (as replacement for one that was written off as unfixable). When pushed to switch between magnetic pickups and modeling the switch doesn't move equally well in all positions. In fact, it is just in the custom1-posistion that it reliably pops back out after being pressed. I've been looking for obstructions and not found any so it seems to be a problem inside the switch. I've also seen suggestions that problems with this switch may be caused by the knob being mounted to low on the shaft, but raising the position changes nothing. The switch does get stuck just as bad in the down position when operated with no knob on the shaft. This may seem like a simple warranty case, but I'm reluctant to send the guitar back given my track record with the local distributor (Norway). The modelling circuit on my first JTV died after about a months use, and it took the distributor nearly 4 months to replace it. They spent almost 3 months diagnosing before finally reporting that they were unable to repair the guitar and had to order a replacement. This seems odd considering the modular construction of the instrument and that it should be e simple operation for anyone with a bit of insight to replace components one by one until the problem is solved. I'm not too keen on 4 more months without the instrument, so it leaves me with the following questions: 1. Is there something else I can try that won't affect the warranty, like electronics cleaning-fluid (isopropanol) or some form of lubrication on the switch. 2. Does line6 supply parts for these guitars at all? I can't see why the distributor would be unable to repair the guitar by swapping the electronics if they do have spares. It would otoh be problematic to maintain the guitar in the long term (when the warranty runs out) if there are no spares available. I haven't seen any 3rd-party rotary-switches on the market that would work as replacements for the model and tuning-selectors. 3. Is is possible for me to order the necessary parts to swap out the main selector myself so that I won't have to be without an instrument for months? I can't get a straight answer from the distributor. I do understand that l6 may not want people to buy complete electronics kits to install in other instruments, but individual parts must at least be available somehow.
  13. I got a JTV-59 in April. The variax circuit died a month later and it was returned for repair. 3 months later I was told that the repair-center used by the Norwegian distributor was unable to fix it and that I would get a new guitar (not Line6's responsibility I know, but lousy service from a national distributor does hurt a manufacturers reputation). A month later the new guitar (s/n w12020981) arrived and within a couple hours use it developed a problem with the model selector. Switching models work fine, but pushing the knob to switch between magnetic pickups and modelling only works reliably in the Custom1-position. In other positions the knob often gets stuck in the down position, and if I pull it up it may jump to programming mode (blinking LEDs). I tried the paper-trick mention in this thread to raise the knob on the shaft but that doesn't work. No wonder really as I discovered that the problem is just as bad when I operate the switch using the shaft with no knob. I'm reluctant to send it back again if that means another 4 months without the guitar. Is there anything else I could try myself?
  14. The guitar was shipped off for repair on June 7. Today I finally got a message saying that the distributors rep-centre is unable to fix it, so I will receive a new guitar. I've examined the internals and can't really understand why it should be hard to fix if only L6 can produce spare parts. I just hope the fretwork is a bit better on the next one so that I won't have to shell out for another plek-job. There were none in stock atm so it'll take a few weeks still.
  15. This is a common problem on many trem-bridges if they are set to float. My solution to this problem is to install a tremol-no . It is a device that installs on most trem-bridges with traditional springs (including floyd-rose) that makes it possible to lock the bridge in position so that it becomes possible to use different tunings etc despite the bridge being set to float. For string changes you only have to remember to lock the bridge before you start, then rip off all strings, clean the fingerboard etc, restring, tune, loosen the lock and fine-tune. The tremol-no doesn't hamper the operation of the tremolo or affect tone when it is unlocked. When locked it may add a touch more sustain on some guitars, but in most cases changes to tone are unnoticeable.
  16. Smaller solid-state amps with simulation circuits built in are imho better than tube-amps for low volume applications. The most flexible solution is a separate amp-simulator. With it you can practically have the same tone for everything from your bedroom (headphones even) to an outdoor stadium gig by scaling the FRFR amps and speakers. I play just about anything except the most extreme high-gain styles (pre WW2 jazz and folk to 80s metal and modern progrock) through a high-end modeller that is able to analyze (profile) the behaviour of any guitar2tape signal chain (amp/cab/microphone). With it I practise through a headset, living-room stereo, studio monitors, keyboard amps, FRFR wedges, anything that doesn't color the sound. I also perform playing the sim through various PA's using IEM for my own sound. All manufacturers who build amp-sims, L6 and their POD-series products included, offer decent simulations for the styles and types of amps you have requested.
  17. It doesn't matter where I plug in. It is usually direct into a Kemper Profiler or a Digitech RP1000, somtimes via a StroboStomp tuner or via a G90-wireless. I've tried a couple different cables, but that makes no difference as they're all mono jacks. I never bought a POD as I already had both the Kemper and other signal-processors when I got the guitar. Hence I don't use the VDI connector for anything other than setup or firmware-updates from a computer. I made a solution to power it through a stereo cable to the jack, but scrapped that as it works badly through the wireless system I bought recently ;) ... as does VDI. I won'd disassemble anything beyond the back panels unless I'm told otherwise by the reseller. I did check with a multimeter though, and found that there's voltage supplied into the variax circuit when the battery and jack is plugged in.
  18. I'll have to handle this via the Norwegian reseller. I never noticed any clinking noises before either, but I haven't paid much attention till now. I first noticed it in the quiet room as the guitar was sitting on a stand next to my desk, plugged in. It is probably a broken wire, bad soldering or other intermittent failure. The click when you plug in is mostly masked by the noise of the jack going in. The easiest way to hear it is if you insert the battery while the guitar is plugged in. At least my guitar emits an audible click just as the battery indicator LEDs light up just a little second or so after the circuit is closed as the battery goes in.
  19. I think I've got a bad connection somwhere. The magnetic pickups work fine, but the Variax only works periodically. Otherwise it's dead. Leaving it on a stand by my desk plugged in I suddenly noticed a clicking noise like a relay as it was standing there and found the variax working for a while after that. I then removed the back covers and had a look for badly connected sockets inside etc. Couldn't find any. Pulling the battery out and putting it back lights up 3 LEDs on the battery inticator. If I do this plugged in I sometimes hear the relay-click as the green battery-indicator LEDs light up. The variax circuit remains dead if there's no click as the battery goes in. Any pointers? Are there spares available? I've only had the guitar a couple months, but I would prefer to not swap the guitar as I've spent some resources on fret-levelling and fitting a new nut.
  20. The choice of tube-amp will depend on what tone you want. However, few tube-amps perform well at low volumes so an amp-sim with flat response-speaker(s) or a modelling amp may be a better choice. Most such units can also turn the tube-simulation completely off and are thus much better at amplifying the acoustic sounds a variax is able to produce.
  21. The P is for P90 pickups. All emulation work through the piezo bridge and is identical on the 59 and 59P. It is in fact identical across all JTVS. The 89S come with a few different high-gain-oriented "patches", but the circuits are the same. Acoustic emulation, just like a real acoustic, will sound bad going through either amp-simulation or a real guitar (pre)amp. This signal is designed for a signal path similar to one coming from a vocal microphone. It is designed to go direct to the desk. If you use a variax or a real acoustic connected to a line6 or other amp-sim, create dedicated patches for use with the acoustic sounds. You may use effects like reverb, delay, chorus and man others with great results, but amp-simulation should be turned off. Some simulators can't turn the simulation off, but instead offer a "direct" model for this purpose. A JTV may be powered in 3 different ways: From the internal battery, via the variax digital interface when hooked up to a line6 device (POD or amp), or with a powerfeed through a stereo cable connected to a powered XLR/line footswitch.
  22. Wireless VDI would only be of interest to POD users, but it could be integrated in a more extensive bidirectional wireless system. Instead of having a heap of boxes and batteries on my back I'd love to have one system that combine guitar, mic (headset) and IEM. It may be relatively cheaper to add VDI to a design that already implements a shared bidirectional digital link.
  23. Unfortunately this product (98-034-0105) doesn't seem to be available from European shops. I was looking for add-ons at the line6 site but didn't know I had to dig that far into their on-line shop to find all the variax parts and goodies. Ah well, I've made my own PS-box which work and use a patch that bypass the amp-sim in my rig so I can do without the 1/4"-XLR switch, but it's nice to know that the alternative exist if someone should ask. Thanks! I agree on the idea of modularisation to keep the cost of the basic product down, but the QC issues (nut and frets in particular) should be addressed at the factory.
  24. If you read a bit between the lines it should be hard to understand that my point is that the JTV, with some modifications is an excellent instrument. I wouldn't put that much effort into it if it wasn't. The only thing not mentioned above is that I also may make an effort to refinish the neck with a satin surface. In summary, what I would recommend the designers to consider for future designs is: Satin neck finish Locking tuners Stainless steel frets A nut that actually fits the neck A bit more effort on the fretwork. It does need fret levelling (manual or plek) which should be unnecessary for a new guitar in this price-range. More emphasis on the magnetic side w/support for coilsplit Supply a 5m stereo cable (signal+power), a short mono patch (signal to amp), and a box to connect guitar+powersupply+amp for battery-less operation. Re-design the variax-circuit so that it has a decent standby-mode, if the guitar still uses an internal battery. Anything less than 90% reduction of the power-consumption in standby isn't up to modern standards. 90% is acceptable, 96-98% is good. With an external PS there isn't much need for a battery at all, but that may weaken the argument in favour of buying a POD. The only issue above that I can't address myself is the circuit-design, but I would have been prepared to pay a small premium to have had these things done at the factory. With these relatively minor modifications the guitar is no longer a $700 guitar with expensive electronics, but an instrument that can justify its street price without even considering the advanced insides. It's worth noticing that the US-custom model addresses many of these concerns but I'm certain that the Korean factory could improve things considerably at a fraction of the cost. And your point was?
  25. A POD is an expensive power-supply. I won't sacrify my high-end amp-sim-rig for a POD just to power the variax. The problem is solved using an external powersupply and a custom stereo cable. On stage I feed power from a high-capacity-powerpack shared with a wireless transmitter. On top of that I've put Bare Knucle pickups with coiltap using pickup-rings with 2 switches on each ring. 2 switches activate coiltap individually for each pickup. A 3rd switch toggles between split-coils and serial-coils and the 4th switch is connected as a circuitbreaker for the internal battery. That's the best flexibility I can achieve. What remains to be done is a plek-job on the frets, a new (better cut) nut and a set of Gotoh locking tuners which should fit with no modifications.
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