watch4king

I ended up buying the VDI cable from Line 6 in case the battery runs out or I decide to have Helix change models which is not possible running wireless or via a regular cable. The cable came in and is really crappy. Its nothing like a guitar cable and gets tangled every single time. And being 25ft long makes it even worse. Does any one make a cable that is more like a real guitar cable?

Same rig as me! I got my JTV89F last week and I'm super impressed....and coming from a PRS P22! The versatility is incredible, and the playability is also top notch!

NO worries, I found it. Thanks!

Thanks Charlie! Is there a product name or number?

Hey guys, I have looked through the forums and found a guy making some nice VDI cables sometime ago but I guess he is no longer around. Can you guys recommend a source? The ones I saw from Line6 look like regular Cat5 cable and not very sturdy. I'd like to get something to use when playing live. Thanks

Thanks for the input guys! I don't think $4k would have justified the build difference. I'll let you guys know once I get it. I've been thinking about laminating the top with some curly maple and staining it red.....just an idea.

I got sucked into Line 6 with the introduction of the Helix after many years of Boss pedals and Marshall amps. I have now sold most my gear since I play at church and have limited space. Now, thanks to this lovely forum I got sucked again and just ordered a new JTV89F. I wanted the US version but the Korean looked pretty good for quite a lot less money. So here I am, waiting for UPS to deliver this baby in the next couple of days..... Can't wait to see what this baby can do!

Here's the snake I made in case anyone needs one and doesn't want to go through the trouble of making one. Sleeving the whole thing was a pain I tell ya! Its actually 33ft.

I have built a custom snake, braided and sleeved for a 4CM setup that I no longer use. It has 4 separate channels, all labeled. SEND, RETURN, INPUT and one for CHANNEL switching. Its about 20ft. If anyone is interested I can post pictures on Sunday since I left it at church. Its nice and sturdy.....and well made.

Guys, just FYI, wood moves FAST! Guitars are very susceptible to humidity. Specially open pore UNFINISHED woods such as fretboards. Electric guitars don't move much with humidity as their bodies are sealed with sealers and finish unlike acoustics which are bare on the inside. Electrics can adsorb ( and loose) humidity via the unfinished areas like the pockets and whatnot. BUT the fretboards are the easiest thing to be noticed as the humidity changes. Because most fretboards are quartersawn for stability the wood moves sideways and if dry it shrinks causing the fret ends to stick out. I always recommend oiling the fretboards with a good butcher oil let it soak in and then wipe of and coat with a good wax. I found over the years that it helps. But it still moves. Always be conscientious to not leaving a guitar inside the car, or in a hot place.....

Sounds pretty good to me.... actually I just sold mine because it was so close.

That's a good way to look at it!

Thanks for posting this. I'll definitely look into it next time I take the helix out and give it a try.

Roscoe, 100 Watts on a tube amp is not the same result as a flat response speaker. The tube guitar amp has its own character and sound and it will color and change the sound from the Helix. The reason to use FRFR is so you can use the Helix to reproduce the sound of the amp while the speaker delivers the actual sound of the emulated amp and cabinet without changing its tone or character. Yes, you can use a tube amp but then you'd be using 2 amp sounds. The Helix and the Tube amp. And, 100 watts on a tube amp is a whole LOT louder than a 100 Watt speaker....

I just got a brand new EV FRFR powered speaker brand new for $260. on the bay. REAL thrilled specially for the price! 1500 Watts. A real steal....

Here's one previous post I made that really helped me when I started with the Helix: "there is another way in which you can have a separate amp on the first channel with an A/B switch. That way you can switch between a clean amp and a distortion channel. Here's a good video tutorial: https://www.youtube....h?v=BBm91miPTcs I did that and loaded the B path with the delays,reverbs and other modulations can can be switched on and off after either one of the amps."

The base was lowered to fit the height of the Helix and then holes drilled through the base. It's actually plywood. I will post pictures later. I'm on my iPhone and haven't figured out how to post pics sorry...

I'm using a Pedal Pad custom case. Attached the Helix with longer screws through the rubber feet. A little on the heavy side but the Helix is the biggest culprit...

Dude!! That was awesome. I know you just went over the basics and didn't really focuus on tone but I am sure you helped a lot of folks here understand the potential of the Helix and get lots of new ideas and options. Thanks!

Please do! That would be great!

I think you answered your own question.... You want to assign multiple blocks to one footswitch. See this thread: http://line6.com/support/topic/21140-multi-assignment-of-parameters-for-control-changes/?hl=scenes&do=findComment&comment=159802

Its weird indeed. But, what are you tonally trying to achieve with higher Sag settings?

You may want to go over what you wrote and edit it a little bit....its somewhat confusing. If I understand correctly, you are saying that you save a patch with one effect/block off and then once you bring it up again that same block is on?

+16db sounds a little high but yes, the Helix is supposed to behave like in real life with pedals in front of the amp. Try the Klon like others have suggested.... or even both. Personally I use the Timmy or the Klon and happy thus far. Good luck!

Phil, thanks for the input. I will try to post a video very soon showing the issue. But here's what happens: The pedal is all the way back to the heel, I start to move it forward slowly and there is no change. The display reads 0. Then after, it realizes it moved and starts at about 25% from nothing and goes smoothly all the way to 100% as I press towards the toe. Then the same happens backwards. If I start to move the pedal towards the heel it doesn't start registering a change until I have moved the pedal at least 1/4" to 1/2". Feels like there is play from physical 0 on the pedal to where it actually starts to engage or register a change. When doing a swell I start slowly and instead of the sound fading in gradually it just jumps out and ll the sudden is at 40% or so. Basically its not gradual.....