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db0451's Achievements

  1. I don’t like having to bump things, but I’d really appreciate if another owner of a TonePort UX8 sees this and has time just to unscrew the top of their unit and take a photo of this area near the PSU, or at least describe the part number and value(s) of the 5-pin transistor or whatever other component is supposed to be at U57 U37. I’ll PayPal the winner money for drinks and/or a hearty dinner :P [edit] fixing cmpt # [/edit]
  2. Thanks for trying, but I already exhausted my options on Google, of course ;) Yes, there are some photos of the UX1 and/or 2, but I cannot see any 5-pin IC-type component on those, which figures as they use external transformers/PSUs and my problem is with the UX8’s internal one. I couldn’t find any internal photos of the UX8 or anything about a schematic other than Line 6 insisting that only service centres should have them. looking forward to hearing from some UX8 owners :)
  3. Hi all, I just received a UX8 I bought on eBay as spares or repair because it does not power on. According to the prior owner, this was due to a vaguely defined “short on the motherboardâ€, which an (unaffiliated with Line 6) engineer could not diagnose, so the decision was made to give up and sell it. Fair enough: it would be quite a bargain in almost any condition. I opened it up to have a look (which was easy due to all but 3 of the screws having been discarded during the aforementioned attempt at repair), and found that, not far from the power input, there were: a burnt/scorched area on the paper wrapping around the induction coil/SMD named L6 and/or L9 (both labels are next to it and don’t seem to refer to any other part), what might be burning and/or partial lifting out at the through-holes of diode D5, possibly the same effects at capacitor C120, and —get this—what seems to be an entirely missing part, of some type, perhaps a MOSFET or vreg or similar: a section labelled U57 U37 with one side bearing five pins that seem to have residual solder on them, a square that seems to have some kind of adhesive or heat-sink paste from a previously emplaced component, and yet no component to be seen! I’m no expert detective, but this all suggests to me that component U57 U37 has been overloaded and exploded, damaged the others in the process, flown clean off the board, and—via a less-than-careful previous handler, I can only assume—somehow disappeared never to be seen again. I have requested more information from the previous owner and engineer, but, given that they claim not to have noticed this obvious blast-radius, I’m not holding my breath for any revelation. When I buy things as broken, I expect them to be broken but not entire parts to be missing. If they genuinely didn’t know, I’m unsure how the trail of evidence can have been overlooked. I have opened a ticket with Line 6 to request a schematic or some other form of assistance. However, I wonder whether any other owners of a UX8 would be kind enough to open their UX8 up and describe what they see in the equivalent area, preferably with a good-resolution photo? It would be massively appreciated. Seeing what that area looks like in a functioning machine will hugely improve the chance of me being able to repair this one. I’m especially keen to find out what component U57 U37 is supposed to be—type, value, and any other information I would need to replace it. Thanks in advance, fellow UX8 owners! [edit] fixing cmpt # [/edit]
  4. Searching could help. e.g. http://line6.com/support/topic/2846-set-up-x3-live-for-a-gig-the-upper-half-works-fine-none-of-the-footswitches-work/ This user had a problem with the entire lower section and fixed it by re-plugging an internal cable that had come loose and that his post indicates accesses each of the lower row of switches, the upper row of switches, and the higher knobs and other controls. Perhaps your cable has lost contact with the second of those regions. Or, if that turns out not to be the same issue as yours, search for the various threads where people discuss the failure-prone footswitches of the early X3Ls, although I have my doubts they would all fail at the same time, which might make the above suggestion more likely.
  5. Do you have the outputs set to the correct method, or at least the same wrong one?
  6. While the information you posted is good in its own right, I doubt it is directly relevant to the present issue because the reported symptoms are clearly about much more than just non- or poorly functional footswitches: the entire front half of the board seems to have gone out of action.
  7. Good to hear, and thanks for letting us know!
  8. The ribbon cable coming loose sounds very plausible. Good luck! Personally, I would not be so quick to dismiss the X3L. If it was the cable, yes, that was one small bump, but it could have been pure chance that led the cable to be prone to slipping out on the first place. FWIW, I have not heard of there being any consistent issue with the ribbon cable (i.e. for anything except a tiny handful of posts/suggestions). I know what you mean, but I think it would be fairly reasonable to assume the problem would not recur. Unless the cable is out of spec, in which case, I would hope Line 6 could supply a replacement . . .
  9. Make sure you have the Outputs page set to COMBO or STACK PWRAMP.
  10. What sort of external problem would cause neatly half of the device to stop working? But yes, confirming whether or not you have since tested this in a normal location is necessary for people to diagnose/make guesses here.
  11. Please consider not putting every tiny sentence on a new line for no logical reason. That post hurts my eyes. On a more related subject, the reason they differ is that they are different devices. Before I expand upon that point, and aside from the possibility that you did not convert the patches from the 2.0 properly, ensure that you have the X3 set up for the correct method of output: direct to computer/desk/PA or the pre/power input of a combo/stack. The manual explains this. I cannot muster sympathy. It is your responsibility to research the similarities, differences, and other capabilities of something like the X3 before spending hundreds of pounds on it. There are plenty of videos, forums discussing both units alone and specifically in comparison, and of course the manuals and other official materials. There is no shortage of information to check before buying. By jumping in blind, you bring all the risks on yourself. Nonsense. Yes, it is a POD. No, it is not the same POD. What would be the point of that? Again, researching it beforehand would have amply proved this. Yeah. Different software.
  12. Well, yes, they most certainly did. To make explicit what I implied in my previous post: The volume of the preamp is Drive. The volume of the power amp is the Amp/Tone (both map to the same thing) Volume.
  13. “gain†in the sense of distortion, a.k.a. Drive in the Amp block? If so, that’s very different from volumes, of which there are three: Amp/Tone Volume, the combined Dual Tone volume on the Home Page, and Master Volume. Changing the amount of Drive changes the timbre of the patch. You can do that if you want, but you’re deviating from the intentions of the person who made it. Which is fine if you like it better that way. And why would they use what you consider a low level of distortion? Specifically because, as I first said, that was the sound they wanted, for example if they felt it better simulated the tone of a particular artist. Sorry, but this seems obvious. Again, if your preferences differ, do whatever you like. It doesn’t mean there was no reason for using a level of Drive less than 8. Plenty of Tones/Amps call for that. On the other hand, changing any of the volumes just makes the patch louder. And, unless you have a specific reason to turn them down at all—chiefly to ensure certain Tones don’t come out a lot louder than others live—having the Tone and Master Volumes as high as they will go without clipping is optimal because that maximises the signal-to-noise ratio of the POD. The manual explains this clearly.
  14. Clearly you have the pedal set to affect the level of the guitar before the amp, a.k.a. pre—not to affect the total volume after the amp and effects, a.k.a. post. Change that.
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