boynigel

I've experienced this but 3.8 seems to have fixed it, or so it seems so far. here's my experience: while scrolling patches via FS1 and FS7, i found that if i toggled too fast, it would lock up. i could get away with scrolling through 4-5 presets before this would happen. my fix was to simply scroll more slowly via the foot switches, or just use the rotary encoder to scroll. FWIW, if you're hooked up to Edit you can just click on to whatever preset you want and it will unlock. last night i actually put 3.8 to the test and scrolled up by a good 10-11 presets via the footswitches very fast and it didn't lock up on me. so far so good.

my Bad Cat Cub 15R Player Series fried my LT's Ext Amp jack...even though i reached out to BC to make sure that the wiring of their foot switch jack was kosher w/the Helix send jack as warned by them in the manual. luckily i got a certain retailer to take the LT back and exchange it for a new one.

i agree that the EXP area is a potential port of entry for dirt, but the inside of my 19-month old LT was pretty darned clean, the exception being the very dirty FS9 and FS8 micro-switches, which couldn't be much further from the EXP pedal. not saying this to pick an argument but rather just to have the details out there for anyone who comes across this post in the future. any and all dirt on the two aforementioned micro-switches came from that very area. i'm still suspicious of the aforementioned T-thingamajigs being the source of the dirt via "erosion" over time...either that or the dirt is coming in via the exterior foot switches themselves...or maybe a bit of both? BTW- 6 years is a hell of a run, lucky you. i keep a very clean house, yet i've had two units that i've had to clean micro switches on within a year and a half for both!

Thanks, good info and i've seen some of your videos. i'm a little skeptical on foam being the culprit because: 1) the foam isn't on the receiving end of any friction which would cause it to flake 2) the little T-pieces that sit between the springs and the micro-switches appear to always be in contact with the little buttons on the micro-switches, which means that they could act as shields to any would-be foam flakes getting onto the surface of the micro-switch buttons. This is just my theory on that, and i could certainly be wrong.

So after 19 months of relatively heavy use of my current LT, my #9 foot switch started to only work intermittently. I’d experienced this a few years back when I had the Floor unit, so I was familiar with the process of cleaning the internal micro switches. When I opened the LT up, it was immediately apparent, visually, which switch was #9 as it was coated with black dust. FS#8 was pretty gross too but wasn’t malfunctioning…yet. All the other micro switches looked brand new in comparison to the dirty ones, which makes sense considering that 8 & 9 are my Snapshots 1 & 2 switches and see the most use out of all the switches. Anyway, they ALL got cleaned while I was in there, and now everything’s back to normal. I’m wondering if anyone else has any theories regarding how the black dust forms, and here’s mine: Those little black T-shaped pieces w/the circular heads that are the contact points for the micro switches and are seated in the springs for each foot switch…maybe the black dust is from them (very) slowly eroding over time with every press of a given foot switch? If the T-thingies are indeed the culprit, too bad they couldn't have used a more resilient material. I could be wrong, but I don’t think its dirt coming in from outside of the unit because when I blew out the spring housing area of every other foot switch there was NO dirt/dust. At the end of the day this is a pretty simple fix that I can live with having to deal with every year and a half, but what happens when the micro switch has gotten clogged one too many times and needs replacement? I did purchase a bag of microswitches to have on hand for when this time comes. Has anyone here tackled replacement of one of these? Specifically I’m wondering how exact the height placement of the new switch needs to be before soldering, or if the travel range and “give” of the spring and T-shaped plunger offer a little “forgiveness” as to the height of the switch. It seems like it ideally needs to be a one shot, one kill scenario where you don’t want to have solder/de-solder any more than you must. Can anyone speak from experience?

okay then, tried a fourth reset and the problem is gone! Now let's see if something else rears its ugly head. ;)

yes, always

Welp, 3 factory resets later and the problem persists. Hmmm...

i did, but forgot to mention that. maybe i'll try again in a few days. In the meantime i've everything pretty well dialed in so I won't need to use that feature in the near future.

I did the update last night and all seemed good until today when i noticed that the behavior of the 6 physical knobs has changed in that when i push down on a given parameter knob to assign a snapshot-specific parameter, say on a delay or whatever, the number value no longer changes to white (w/brackets) signifying that i'm changing the parameter unique to that snapshot. Hiccup or user error? My quick fix was to do said edits via Edit on my computer, which appears to be unaffected by this issue. Anyone else experience this yet?

I've improved my presets immensely by using Jason Sadites' tips on using his "sweeteners" on a given patch.

Is there a current reference out there somewhere that lists where L6 drew inspiration from for a given L6 Original amp model? The names surely tell you what style they'd be best for, but i'd be curious as to what a given Original draws from. Maybe it's, if amp-x had a baby with amp-z, and so on. just curious if they ever gave up that info.

i was having issues w/pro tools which are now resolved, but when i went to open the Native plugin, it wasn't showing up. digi tech support has told me to delete Native from my plugins folder, which i already did. just now i went and downloaded the latest version of Native but when i try to open the installer it won't open. is this because 3.71 requires an earlier version to be installed first, or is there something else going on here?

dumb question, but just in case... your IEM's aren't slipping out on you, are they? I notice this when i get sweaty and mine slip out a bit, taking bass frequencies with them in the process and leaving all the highs.

hmmm...i'll see if i can recreate the lockup with the LT not connected to the computer, but if i recall correctly, i think it did lock up once at a practice when it wasn't connected to a computer. i could be wrong. that said, i've never had HX Edit crash on me, so maybe we've two different issues? Were your lock-ups triggered by scrolling presets, too quickly, via foot switches like me?

My LT, which is completely up to date as of this writing, locks up if i toggle presets too fast. usually happens after the 5th press or so of the footswitch. appears to be directly related to the foot switches because i can scroll fast via the rotary dial and it won't lock up. this has been a constant through at least the last 2-3 updates.

from what i can tell, galaxies are sort of like channels within a channel, so i'm wondering if this can be done.

I had a feeling this was the case. For me it's 50/50 as to whether i need the block active on all snapshots. TY

Whenever I add an effects block to a given snapshot and save it, it always gets saved as being Active in all my other snapshots by default. Is this by design or am I missing a step? It’s easy enough to go through each snapshot afterwards and simply bypassing the effect and saving it in that state per snapshot, but I'm still wondering if there’s something i'm doing wrong.

Okay, this is a weird one. Easy enough to have solved the problem already, but I’m trying to wrap my head around how/why it happened, and if anyone else has ever experienced this. I’ve a song-specific preset I’ve been using for over a year now. In this patch I have the Courtesan Flange assigned to a foot switch and I engage it 1X in the song for about 2 seconds, and that’s it. Last night at practice when I engaged it, I experienced a roughly 3-4 db volume boost, causing all eyes to fall in my direction when it happened. When I got home, I went over the preset in Edit in an effort to find out what happened. I toggled the Flange on/off while watching every other block in the chain, one at a time, to see if any parameters were somehow getting changed when i engaged the effect. Not surprisingly (because I haven’t touched this preset since I wrote it), none were. My quick fix was to lower the level on the Flange block itself from 0 to -4 db. Maybe when I get home today I’ll delete the block and then recreate it to see if the new iteration can sit at the original 0.0 level setting without startling everyone when engaged

okay, so is that to say that using the L and R XLR's as individual mono outs is indeed a bad idea? If so, would utilizing the combination of the L/mono XLR, with the L/mono 1/4" be a better option until i can get my hands on that adapter?

please see my response to DunedinDragon

i've got a rehearsal tonight for which i'll be using IEM's for the first time. guy doing sound said he'll need two outs from my Helix, preferably XLR. i only mentioned "mono" because that's how all my patches are written. no stereo. His "preferably XLR" request is what prompted my question as to whether there's any reason why a L/mono 1/4" out, along with the L/mono XLR combination would be better for any reason. I'm just wondering if using the two XLR's together in mono would confuse the Helix in some weird way, making it look for a stereo signal that isn't there? It's probably fine but i wanted to check just in case, as i don't want any weirdness with my sound tonight. for whatever reason, he wants 2 feeds. that's all i can tell you unfortunately.

i need to send 2 mono outs from my LT. if all my patches are in mono, is there any reason why i still shouldn't use the L and R XLR outputs together? would i be better off using the L/mono XLR and the L/mono 1/4" instead?

I’ve just begun experimenting with taming the fizz on overdriven tones. I’ve had pretty good success by using the high cut at 4.6 khz on the amp cab block, sometimes combined with a 9 khz cut using the Hi Lo Cut EQ block, or w/the EQ block by itself (no cab cut). FWIW, my main “dirt” tone is usually via Placater Drity with the gain at 4, w/a Pillars in front of it w/it’s gain set at 3, volume at around 5-6…just so you know I’m not doing “high gain” by any means. For me, I don’t think the global eq is the way because I prefer little or no high cut on my cleans and as far as I know, you can’t toggle global eq on/off via snapshots I’m not looking for specific frequency suggestions as we all use different guitars, pickups, amp models/settings, etc. I’m just looking to see if there are any of you who’ve found other effective methods which I mightn’t haven’t considered…maybe via a different mic model, or some non-conventional method that maybe on paper shouldn’t work, but happens to do a great job. More options are never bad.