jbright44
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Everything posted by jbright44
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I usually have the master 10 kind of thinking of it as a master "bypass" maybe that's my problem
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All that is setup correctly
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I guess with real amps I'm so used to having to play cleanish because of volume I've never really been able to crank the amps up.
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I use the Alto TS15 and I think it sounds great!
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Curious if anyone else notices this too. If I got an amp that's set up kind of edge of break up or a little crunchy, when I put an od block in front of it, no matter how much I turn up the level, I don't ever seem to get any appreciable overall volume increase at the output. The amp blocks responds like an amp that is having the input kicked pretty hard but for some reason it doesn't seem like I get the volume boost I'm used to getting when you crank an od into a real amp or use a boost pedal. I'm always having to use either a channel volume or master volume increase or even a gain block on the output to get the kind of volume boost I'm after. Any thoughts here?
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Yeah. All that is set up correctly. Still no audio
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All of sudden I can't get audio to play through the helix. I've got the unit connected to my computer via USB and normally can play anything (browser, spotify, etc) and all sounds come through helix to my FRFR speaker. Now all of a sudden, none of that works. Thoughts here?? Running Windows 10 and Helix v.2.12. I tried with 2 different computers and 2 different cables, same result.
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Submitted a ticket to Line 6 support and this is what they sent back Make sure your Helix is plugged in directly to the computer. No hubs or secondary connections. You should also try to deleting the interlock file for the driver. Here is where its located: Go to the interlock file. The path is: C:\ProgramData\Line 6\HelixInterlock Close the updater, delete HelixInterlock file and re-launch the app. That solved the problem!!! This should be a sticky on this forum
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I had similar issues. Line 6 sent me this and that fixed it. Make sure your Helix is plugged in directly to the computer. No hubs or secondary connections. You should also try to deleting the interlock file for the driver. Here is where its located: Go to the interlock file. The path is: C:\ProgramData\Line 6\HelixInterlock Close the updater, delete HelixInterlock file and re-launch the app.
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I bought the Alto ts-15 and have been very happy. My patches translate well to the PA I play out.
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Thanks for the reply. Did it. Didn't work....
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I'm desperate here. I've got a gig tomorrow and this damn thing is failing me. I can't load my presets and I can't get the stupid thing to work. Any help appreciated!!
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Any help here!?! Now I can't seem to connect to the Helix at all!!
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I love the route 66 model. I use it on tons of presets.
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Mine just started doing it today.... Out-of nowhere. The sound guy in the back of an 80p seat auditorium could hear it....
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Never had issues until the 2.2 update. Windows 10. Same cables same computer same OS same OS package.
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Just like title says. I can play for about 15 minutes or so with the helix hooked up to my computer via USB and after a while the Helix application says "Helix Device not Conected" and loses the USB connection. Windows throws up an error that says "the USB device you just connected has malfunctioned." I've had to reboot to get it to work again. I followed update procedures to the letter and have reinstalled the local 2.20 helix drivers now twice on my laptop. Thoughts here.....
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So with all the flexibility in the Helix I'm refining my work flow and processes every time I sit down to dial in sounds and "breaking old habits" from when I used to be an analog guy. I'm primarily playing p&w at my church so that's where I'm coming from musically. One thing I discovered that's made my life so much easier when it comes to dialing in just the right sound is the following. I used to play and tweak and play and tweak and drop in fx and play and adjust amp and cab and play to get the right sound. Now what I've started doing is dropping in a looper block first in the chain when I'm building out a new patch for a new song. I record the part for the song patch I'm creating (chorus, verse or whatever) and just let it loop. While it's looping I can go to the editor and tweak away in "real time" sort of like a crude re-amping workflow. Once I've got it like I want it, I can move on to the next section of the song, switch to the next snap shot and repeat. This has made my work flow so much more efficient and given me the flexibility go try more new things on the fly kind of in real time vs the play/listen/stop/tweak/play work flow I'm used to with my analog gear. I just thought I'd share that little bit in hopes it's helpful to someone else. I feel like every time is sit down with this thing I learn something new!
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If you do a parallel path. Tie the split a/B parameter to a momentary button and tie the reverb decay to a momentary button. When you want to freeze, push the momentary switch and have the reverb decay go to 100% decay and adjust mix as necessary to keep it from feeding back infinitely. Have the split a/b black go 100 percent to the other path and now you can play through the parallel path without adding to the reverb. This should work pretty well. You could also do it with a snap shot.
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At the split block you can choose to route the signal to path a or B. Assign the routing in the split block to snap shots and adjust the direction of split on a per snap shot basis. If all your doing is bypassing the second path you're e splitting your signal and you will have a parallel clean signal mixed in with your other path. Using the sit and merge block parameters with snap shots is the way. I do this all the time
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I think I have them both at 50% mix, split evenly and decay time and eq to taste.
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Yeah I looked into that but it's slightly big. I had the club size o e for my helix Control plus mission pedal and it worked great. I love the mono stuff though.
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Here's the review I posted on TGP. hopefully this is helpful. First, a little about myself, history and usage. I'm not a pro. I'm a piddler. I've run the gamut of gear. From high end boutique tube amps, killer pedal boards, all the way back to the OG Line 6 Pod, Flextone, Behringer V-amp rig through tube power amps for live etc. I've played in original rock bands, playing in bars and I've played at my church. Currently I only exclusively do the latter as I've got a wife and 4 kids and a career so playing in a band is just not a priority right now. For the last 5 years of playing at my church I've run my pedal board with the usual suspects for this genre on it into the front end of either an Orange TH30, Matchless HC-30, Port City Pearl or 65 Amps Producer all into 1x12 cabinets, mic'd up with a 57 and a Cascade Fat Head mic. I've always struggled with getting the sound I hear coming out of the amp to translate well to what I hear in my in ear monitors and what comes out of the PA in the house for any number of reasons (my amp at home, backline at church, cab is in a small iso box not really treated well, mic placement variables, etc. etc.) So I decided to switch to DI in from a Helix to give me more consistency and flexibility in terms of effects routing in hopes that I could solve this problem. I chose the Helix mainly because the Kemper always seemed a little intimidating to me from what I had seen and I didn't really like the interface on either it or the Axe FX from what I had seen. The Helix, from the demo's seemed to be really good in that department. I purchased an Alto TS115A for home monitoring to help me get my patches set up at home as closely as possible to what they might sound like through the PA at church. I figured if I want to match a PA I'll run it through a PA speaker. First off, I never thought a modeler would give me the same responsiveness and feel of an amp. Man was I wrong. The Helix (for my taste) does it. The thing that's always been missing in modelers I've tried and used in the past was that "feel" and dynamic responsiveness. The Helix nails it. I'm beyond impressed by the quality of the amp tones, especially the low gain and clean tones this thing does. That's where modelers always seemed to really suck in the past and the Helix excels in that department. 2nd, I am super impressed by how good the OD pedal models are. Again, very real, very believable extremely usable. I'm not one to be pedantic when it comes to guitar stuff, I'm pretty much a pragmatist. Does the 808 model sound like an 808? I don't know. But it sounds good. And it is very usable unlike what I've experienced in the past with Line 6 modeled OD effects (mainly M series. Unusable). The other FX are also pretty great as well, but I'm used to that from Line6. They've always done well with mod/delay/verb stuff so I'm not surprised by that. 3rd. The interface is stupid simple. The default positions of all the amps and fx really seem to capture the "essence" of that thing, whatever it may be. In other words, if you want that classic "AC 30" sound from your amp, drop in the AC30 model and it's pretty much spot on with minimal tweaking. I find that to be insanely useful. For almost any OD, or amp model, I find I'm able to drop the model in, maybe tweak the drive a bit to taste and maybe adjust the treble control to suit my particular guitar and I'm 95% of the way there. Quick. Easy. No fuss, not hours tweaking and agonizing to get it just right. It just works. I love that. 4th. My "Alto Speaker as Home Monitor" setup worked like a charm. What I dialed up at home, sounded consistent and as expected in practice. I was very intentional about using the high and low cuts on the cabs (more on this later) to make sure I approached it more from "cab mic'd up to a PA" position than an "amp in a room" position and that worked beautifully. The sound guys said he had cut it a little bit at about 150 Hz and then a little notch in the 2.5k to 3k range which is pretty standard for guitar. Otherwise, he was very complimentary about it and really liked that it didn't have that "speaker in box" low/mid thing we're always having to fight with the current setup. 5th. I bought the Ownhammer Studio Pack of IR's. Huge upgrade. Line 6 cabs sound good. Ownhammer sound much better. More alive. More open. Totally worth the money. Finally: It did exactly what I wanted it to do. My IEM sound of my guitar has never sounded better. What I got in my ears is exactly what I heard in my house and what I had intended it to sound like. It was majorly refreshing. It DOES NOT sound like being in a room with a cranked amp. It sounds like a really awesome amp being mic'd up in a studio. And it does respond and FEEL like a real amp. That's what I love about it. Am I hard core in the modeling camp and swearing off tube amps forever?? No. But I will say, for the circumstances and the scenario that I'm subject to at this particular venue at this particular time, I believe I've found the best solution. If I was in an original band again, playing bars with an amp on stage and a floor wedge, I'd go back to my amp/pedalboard setup in a heartbeat. Tube amps are just fun!! Hope this has been helpful!
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Ended up going a different route. Don't know how to delete this thread. Thanks for jumping in though!
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Let me know what ya'll think!