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mkaylor

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About mkaylor

  • Rank
    Just Startin'

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    McKinney, Tx.
  • Interests
    Playing Guitar and Salt Water Fishing
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    3

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  1. Unhooked the USB's from the Powercab and the Helix first thing. Only thing hooked up now is G10->Helix->Rumble 25. When I lifted the ground, the hiss went from having a computer like sound to it, to just a straight hiss. If I unhook the 1/4" from either end hiss stops. Unhooking G10 makes no difference. Turning up or down volume on helix or selecting difference patch makes no difference. With the plug out and touching the jack, ie.... ground to ground... Hear Nothing. If I crank mids or treble, it is more pronounced. Hiss is there from 0-10. Since lifting the ground, it hisses like a fully cracked amp. Just enough there to drive you insane. Looking for a 1/8" converter, should have one somewhere. Going to see if it does it in the Aux port.
  2. Always thought the lift was for XLR only. That did help a little bit, but not totally. Thank you
  3. I have a G10 to a Helix, running into a Powercab Plus with Line 6 Link without issue. I also have Helix running XLR stereo out to a Focusrite Scarlett 18/20. None of this has any issue. I added a Fender Rumbler 25 to practice Bass. Hooked it up with the 1/4" output. Now I hear this computer like hiss that rolls in and out. but just on that amp. I've unhooked EVERYTHING from the Helix and it's still there. Everything is hooked into the same power outlet for ground loop isolation. I've also tried another 1/4" cable and routed it a different way. G10 straight into in the Rumbler has no issues. Checked the 1/4" setting on the Helix and it's set to Instrument. I'm at a loss on what I can do to isolate it. Can I lift the ground wire on the 1/4" or do they make some sort of isolation device for 1/4" . This has to be between the Helix and Rumbler only. Please Help, Mike "
  4. Thanks really great info. With a Helix I have the ability to load an IR in it and from what I read, you would want to run the speaker in FRFR mode if you load the IR on the Helix. So any reason to use the speaker sims in the Powercab Plus and not use the ones inside the Helix? Because it's run in the Powercab, is that what gives it the AMP IN THE ROOM sound? My head is turning like in the Exorcist. I'm thinking if I can load the IR's in the Helix, then it's better to save the money and get the cheaper Powercab and leave it in FRFR Mode. I know I have to be missing something here somewhere. I see too many people using Helix with Powercab Plus and talking about controlling it. Thank for the help, Mike
  5. I have 2 questions I hope someone can help me with. I'm an at home player only. I want something that fills the room better than my monitors. Plus with monitors, if I move 2'ft either direction the stereo field changes and it doesn't sound right. I want to go back to something more like a regular cab with a bigger speaker and a clean sound., I already own a Helix, is there any real advantage to buying the Plus model? Thinking maybe eventually getting 2 non-plus models for stereo? Just don't want to have buyers remorse. Will the Powercab work well at lower volumes? 250W is lot, and all anyone talks about . It won't offer much control if you can crank it past 1 or 2. I've not really seen anyone post info on playing at low volumes at home while trying not to p1$$ the wife off. Thanks for the help, Mike
  6. Is there a way to turn one of the loops send/receives on globally? I have a Digitec Trio looped through and would like to use it anytime without editing each patch. Maybe there is another way to hook it in? Currently I go USB in and out to the computer for audio. I use the 1/4 to the amp (possible) and I use a mixture of Variax / Aux (GP-10) and real guitar ports. Thanks, Mike
  7. Will we ever be able to tweak them hooked to the Helix like the POD? Does the hardware support it? It's a pain break out another piece of equipment just to play with settings. MIke
  8. Works fine, seems smooth and fluid, just backwards. Didn't realize this would be such an up in arms topic. I happen to like the FC 7, it's heavy, cheap, and works really well to be made of thick plastic. I really don't want to throw it away because it's backwards, guess it's time to cut the plug off it and rewire!
  9. Are you not also Yamaha? It's obviously NOT fully supported.
  10. The pedal being old mean they had plenty of time to take in to account their own equipment. Don't ya think. ;)
  11. The Yamaha FC7 works backwards. Kinda funny since they own Line 6 now.
  12. Any plans to incorporate Amplifi style town matching into the Firehawk?
  13. Any word as to when the shipments should start going out? Christmas is probably out of the question by now. Mike
  14. Working with Focusrite, if you unplug the USB cable going to the HD500X the 18i20 stays in sync with it. So definately a problem with the USB on the HD500X for some reason.
  15. I have an iMac running 10.8 Uptodate Line-6 HD500X hooked up USB to iMac and SPdif to Focusrite 18i20. HD500X demands to be the sync source. UptoDate Focusrite 18i20 hooked up USB to Mac Focusrite works great and all is well until I start playing the guitar and it switches from Spdif sync to Internal and starts clicking. I've tried 44 and 48Khz. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike
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