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Hey everyone. So this is my first tube amp, and it was working great so far. However, Yesterday during band practise, after it had been on and working perfectly for two hours, the volume suddenly dropped. When I checked the amp to see what was going on, I noticed that one of the tubes (the one on the left) was way hotter than the others. when I turned down the volume, where was a small lightning inside the tube, and then no sound. From what I've gathered from the internet, the tubes weren't paired or biased properly. When the amp is on, the other tubes light up normally. Anyway, when I bought the amp, the people at the store had only two tubes installed (the two in the center), to cut the output down and make it playable in the store. I wanted to know if there is any specific manipulation to do in order to do that. (I have a gig in 4 days and I probably won't have neither time nor money enough to have the tubes changed and the amp biased before then).
We have designed the G10T and G10TII transmitters to fit into almost any guitar. However, we anticipate that there will be some rare cases where the transmitter does not fit into a given guitar. If the G10T or G10TII transmitter is inserted into your guitar and the transmitter's actuator pin is not engaged, the transmitter will not turn on, the LED on the transmitter will not light up, and no signal is processed. In some rare cases, the guitars active electronics are wired with inverse polarity. In this scenario, the original G10T transmitter's electronics can go into a protection mode that keeps the system from being functional. This is evidenced by no output from the receiver, even though the transmitter's light is on. The new G10TII is designed to be electrically compatible with instruments using active pickups and preamps, without the need for an adapter. In some other cases, such as with the Line 6 Variax Acoustic 300, voltage can build up in the ring of the guitar's jack to the point of "tricking" the transmitter into thinking it is docked in the receiver and charging, also resulting in no audio output. Additionally, certain instruments may present a level of noise when their active circuitry is engaged and the transmitter is connected. We have found that a workaround to all of these issues is to use a mono-to-mono (TS-TS) Male to Female adapter, such as those shown below. The G10 transmitter is shown for scale. More details about the first two of these issues are included in the attached document. Troubleshooting procedure: Power the receiver with a USB power source. Insert the transmitter into the receiver (this will ensure that the transmitter and the receiver are set to the same channel). The LED on the transmitter should be Green or Green flashing. (If it is red flashing, the transmitter needs charging. Leave it in the receiver until the LED turns steady green. That indicates it is fully charged.) Insert the transmitter into the instrument's jack, turn up the volume control and play. If audio is not being transmitted to the receiver: A. The problem is mechanical if the LED on the transmitter is OFF when plugged into an instrument. B. The problem is electrical if the LED on the transmitter is ON, or FLASHING when plugged into an instrument Relay G10 Guitar Compatibility.pdf
I had an unfortunate accident this past Sunday while playing at church. My strap came off and the guitar crashed. At 1st I thought everything was ok but when tearing down I realize the VDI cable wouldn't release from the jack. Later I began taking it apart and now see that the jack plate is damaged beyond repair. So does anyone know where I can find a replacement? I've been scouring the internet but not having much luck. Does anyone know if this part is interchangeable with another model perhaps? I've seen a jack plate for a JTV-59 and the 69 and they look like they might match up in size. Does anyone have either one of these and let me know what the dimension are (length x width) ? Mine (the 89) is 3.25" x 1.25" Thanks for any help you have!