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Does anyone know whether you can date a korean JTX through its serial number - i have bought a nice mint second hand JTX-69 and am interested in when it was made (as i understand that earlier models had issues with the E string slipping off the neck). Mine seems ok in that regard

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first four number tell you the year and month of manufacture. YYMM...So 1202 is Feb 2012.

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For what its worth, I am dating a Korean girl who was made in 1964.  To date there has been no problem with the e string slippage.  (Im sorry, I couldn't resist)

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so mine is W11210 - so thats October 2012.

 

Something's not right...it's year first, then month. YYMM.

So unless that's a typo, 1121 doesn't make sense. If it's 1112, that would make sense, and it would indicate that it was built in Dec 2011.

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w13100028 - this is a JTV -89F. So this would be October 2013?  What does the W stand for?  Is that the Korean Factory code?

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My JTV69 was also made in October of 2010 and doesn't exhibit any problems with the high E string.

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Close, but not quite,... it's not JTX, it's JTV. Stands for James Tyler Variax.

 

"first four number tell you the year and month of manufacture. YYMM...So 1202 is Feb 2012"---

Close,... good guess,... actually 1202 would be January 2012.

 

Yes,... "W" is for World Music in Korea. I own four JTV's with "W" numbers,... love 'em all.

 

Sharp crowd here,... I like it.

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"first four number tell you the year and month of manufacture. YYMM...So 1202 is Feb 2012"---

Close,... good guess,... actually 1202 would be January 2012.

 

So the formula is YY/(MM-1)?

 

Strange, but we persevere...

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How on earth does 02 stand for January?

Don't even bother. No doubt this falls into the uber-secret, should this info fall into the wrong hands the moon will escape from it's orbit, category. You know, the same class of history-altering data as recommended pickup height....

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FYI - When I bought a refurbished 69 its nut was loose, causing the obvious slippage as it moved off the neck. They fixed it without question, but it requires shipping again. 

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On 6/11/2021 at 6:49 PM, StrawmanStory said:

FYI - When I bought a refurbished 69 its nut was loose, causing the obvious slippage as it moved off the neck. They fixed it without question, but it requires shipping again. 

 

Official proclamations notwithstanding, the overwhelming majority of typical guitar repair issues on a Variax do not require a trip to an "authorized service center". In this case, ten seconds and a few drops of wood glue would have saved you the time and freight charges of shipping the guitar back and forth....I guarantee that's all they did to it when it got there anyway.

 

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" ... I guarantee that's all they did to it when it got there anyway. " --- Don't mean to be technical, but it's not a guarantee you can make. 

Being the guy at Line 6 that services Variax guitars, I can guarantee the otherwise opposite of that.

 

However, white glue like Elmer's works very well on nut slots. Holds well enough to do the job and still allows to tap it out when a

string nut needs to be changed out. Yes,... wood glue like Tite Bond original wood glue works well. Very good.

 

Yes, a simple line up and glue job would do, but I give it full-on going over. It had a solid in-there string nut on its prior visit before that.

Of that I can guarantee.

 

 

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1 hour ago, psarkissian said:

" ... I guarantee that's all they did to it when it got there anyway. " --- Don't mean to be technical, but it's not a guarantee you can make. 

Being the guy at Line 6 that services Variax guitars, I can guarantee the otherwise opposite of that.

 

Pardon me... since we're apparently going to be pathologically literal today, just for giggles, I'll take another whack at it... though I suspect you already know precisely what I meant. It's a simple problem with exactly one solution. But here goes nothing anyway:

 

"Gluing the nut back in was all that would have been done to address that one specific problem.... because that's all there is to do. A nut is either solidly glued in, or it isn't. There may or may not have been 10 other things done to the instrument that have nothing whatsoever to do with the nut, since it was already there anyway." Is that better?

 

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"... just for giggles, I'll take another whack at it... though I suspect you already know exactly what I meant. " ---

Yeah, sort of, pretty much.

 

I was in solid when it was in for servicing the time before. Don't know what happen between then and the time it came.

Either way, you know me, I take of it one way or another. Always give it a good going over,... my sort of obsessive work ethic.

 

"... 10 other things done to the instrument that have nothing whatsoever to do with the nut, since it was already there anyway." Is that better? " ---

Yes, very good  :)

 

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20 hours ago, psarkissian said:

I was in solid when it was in for servicing the time before. Don't know what happen between then and the time it came.
 

 

 

I'm sure it was... but so what? That doesn't change anything. Either way, nobody faulted you for anything with regard to the instrument's prior repair history... so repeatedly pointing out that the very same nut was "A-OK" at some previous point in time, is meaningless. If my tire is flat today, the fact that it was sitting pretty at 32 psi last week, last month, or last year won't change the fact that now there's a hole in it somewhere, and it needs a plug.

 

Loose nut = glue. The end. You can't turn this tale into a Viking Saga no matter what you do... it simply isn't that interesting.

 

 

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Yeah, stuff happens, works good today, something comes up short tomorrow. That's why I'm here, I deal with it.

BTW, love the old Viking Sagas. Magnus Magnusson's "Viking Hammer of the North" is a classic among his works. 

 

 

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