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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/10/2024 in all areas

  1. I'm sure others with experience in w/d/w will chime in, I'm a humble mono or stereo guy, but - I had to check on the Laney, sure enough a powered 4x12 - so speaker emulation on that side of things is covered (by an actual speaker). First thing I'd try: Helix in > boosts/drives/wahs and other mono stuff into > amp head of choice > right here insert a send to the Laney > cab/IR of choice > stereo processors > L/R out to small 1x12's. Make sense?
    1 point
  2. I've had patches suddenly go wobbly after extended periods of time, doing all sorts of weird sh*t for no discernable reason. It's a computer flogging a bunch of 1's and 0's... stuff goes on tilt sometimes. Exactly why or how is probably more of a philosophical question than anything else, lol. But your troubleshooting method is sound... though I'd probably just rebuild the whole patch from the ground up in an empty slot, as that will eliminate anything else that might be gumming up the works. Don't copy and paste anything from the patch that's giving you trouble. If that works, consider it a win and soldier on. If the problem still persists, try a factory reset. If that still doesn't help, then there's something more complicated clogging the drain that you're not likely to be able to address yourself, and it's service ticket time.
    1 point
  3. That’s always been my experience. Open-back cabs sound airy and ambient, not really what you want for tight, chugging riffs. You can do a quick, easy cab-tuning test by borrowing a couple of carpenter’s pipe clamps, and using them to attach a piece of plywood to the back of your amp. Be gentle about it, so you don’t damage the tolex. I’ve had good results on SS combos in the past, by leaving a narrow slot port to tune the bass response and make sure that the amp doesn’t overheat.
    1 point
  4. Quality control and build quality are two different things, of course. Judging from the all the positive reviews on JTV-59's (100's all over the internet) I'd say quality control is doing their job. I bought a new Korean "59" in Dec. 2016 and I'd rate it's build quality at 9/10 -- in other words, pretty damn good. A few minor things were off: The selector knob wasn't quite centred; there was a loose nut on the G tuning post; the truss rod cover fit a bit loosely... like I say, all relatively minor stuff. But where it counts everything was perfect: The frets were perfectly spaced and dressed; the neck was straight; the finish was impecable; and all the electronics worked as they should. But don't expect it to play perfectly out of the box. Every guitar needs a proper post purchase setup, which of course has nothing to do with build quality. The first thing I did was change to a set of 12/51 strings (D'Addario Jazz Lights EPN21) and that required a truss rod and bridge adjustment, plus intonation. Also, a couple of nut slots were a bit tight and needed some filing to prevent binding... but that's largely it. My conclusion is JTV-59's play beautifully after a proper setup. I've compared mine to Fenders and Gibsons that cost 5X the price, and as far as playing and sound quality goes... they're on par. So my opinion would be... you can purchase with confidence.
    1 point
  5. I love my 59. I would put it up against my 95 lp standard any day I also just recently scored a 2nd one on eBay the other day under 4 bills! Hope it arrives as good as the pics looked
    1 point
  6. Because I l-o-o-v-v-e my JTV59 so much just because of the sound versatility, I've pretty much use it now, as my main axe. The other guitars I own are now taking a back seat; they're lucky if they see the light of day at least once a week! The build of the JTV59 (in my opinion) appears and feel of high-quality. I agree too that my concern are the built-in electronics that are contained inside; especially the model selector. So far I haven't a need to change tuning yet. Of all things, the electronics should be able to withstand a nuclear blast as far as I'm concern. But I'm sure that Line6 (with all their products) have tested the quality, workmanship and endurance of the guitar's components. Especially not only Line6, but James Tyler names are riding on the quality of the JTV line. And I'm sure they want to uphold that status of the company that make high-quality state of the art musical instruments. However, in my career, I work in computer technology. Like clockwork, when we order laptops from a major PC manufacturer, out of 1000 computers that we received, at least 5 will have an issue with one of its components (hard drive, motherboard, video, etc.). The all have supposed have had passed quality control and everything. As I see in the forum, the JTV59 may suffer the same fate, due to the mass production aspect of the issue. Hopefully JTV59s is better that 5 out 1000. At least improve the numbers to at least 1 out of 100,000! Again, since the JTVs are man-made, mass produced with somewhat fragile electronics, I've decided (just in case), to be very, very, very selective on when I should enable either the Model or Alt tune knobs now. Since sounding just like the musician on a recording isn't that critical for what I play, I just concentrate on execution of the riffs/licks. I've pretty much created several clean, crunch and several standard modulation effects and wah tones with the mag pickups and only play around with the volume and tone knobs. I only call up the Model Selector only when needed. With my way of 'stretching' the use of the JTV59 electronics, it should last either mine or the guitar's lifetime. ;)
    1 point
  7. Well, I have to change my grading from a "5/5" to a "4/5" on this JTV-59. Picked it up used from Guitar Center for $699 a few days ago, haven't had much time to mess with it. It plays pretty good, but I have noticed open chords kept playing out of tune and I had to really relax my grip. Sure enough individual notes were way sharp on an otherwise tuned string. Also I had a bad buzzing on the 9th and 10th frets on the middle strings. Also found the magnetic pickups to be very harsh and muddy. Well, I busted out my tools and got to work. The truss rod was completely loose, no tension. The pickups were way close to the strings, the action was actually pretty good at about 5/64" on the bass side and 4/64" on the treble side. Well it would seem the person before me was trying to put way too much relief into the neck to account for a VERY HIGH 11th fret which was causing the major buzzing. Rocking the frets there were a few that were a tad high, but this one was WAY high. Busted out the wrench and tightened the truss rod, about 1/4 turn after I felt tension. Checked the action, needed to be raised. Played some more and yeah, buzz city in the 9th/10th frets. Busted out my trusty file, ground down the high fret, crowned and polished it, and now no more buzzing. Decreasing the relief in the neck also slightly lowered the strings at the first fret, and now the guitar plays in tune all up and down the neck. Intonation was good, didn't have to change it. String height I had to tweak due to the neck tweaks, but kept it around where it was, felt good. Lowered the pickups and they seem much improved, but still need to tweak the height a bit. They measured at 12.5K neck and 13.5K bridge for anyone interested. I check the fretboard radius, and it came in at 14 inch. The strings at both the bridge and the nut followed the radius perfectly, so no issues there. So any guitar is going to need a setup, doesn't matter if it costs $100 or $5,000, due to player preference. But a $1,000 guitar that was borderline unplayable due to this high of a fret and having to tweak around it is not acceptable. The rest of the quality of the guitar is very good, but I am disappointed to have to put so much work into getting this thing playable. A $200-500 guitar - sure. But a $1,000 guitar? Shouldn't need to be grinding on frets. I have a Korean Schecter Hellraiser that didn't need anything but a few tweaks based on my personal preference, and that's about an $800 guitar. The JTV plays excellent now, just as well as any of my other guitars, but I can see why the person who had it before me traded it in - it was in barely used condition, still had the plastic covering the truss rod and rear control covers. Even had picks, strings, capo, and string winder in the bag. It's obvious they bought it, couldn't get it dialed in properly (can't blame them), and said screw it.
    -1 points
  8. Don't take any of this as defending crappy workmanship, because I'm not. However...when these things first hit the street, they were $1400. It's been said many times around here that the JTVs are "$700 guitars with $700 worth of fancy electronics". I agree with that assessment. If it weren't for the modeling, I would not spend $1000 on a JTV, never mind $1400. They're decent enough for a Pacific rim import, but nothing spectacular in terms of craftsmanship...which leads me my round about point: Fretwork on assembly line produced guitars mostly sucks. It's just a fact. They're pressed in by some guy who has 200 necks in front of him that he's gotta finish by 5:00pm, so the attention to detail is just about what you'd expect...I've seen it a million times, even on more expensive axes from the more "household name" brands. Should it be this way? No, but it has become par for the course.
    -1 points
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