rd2rk

IDK about common. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.

Merry Christmas! You'll be Rockin' Around the Christmas Tree for sure!

You can use a GAIN block (+6db max boost) or the OUTPUT Block Level. You can also use the Channel Level in the Helix Amp Block, but the default level is set to <>level the amps across the board, and increasing it can adversely affect the headroom of any FX that follow the amp. Minor changes shouldn't be a problem, as most of the Helix FX have sufficient headroom, but the FX will become louder unless you compensate by changing the levels in those FX Blocks. In most cases, you shouldn't need to mess with any of those levels, as the strength of the final Ouput level should be entirely sufficient for your use case. For a CLEAN boost for solos I either use a GAIN Block last in the chain assigned to a FS (or Snapshot) and set to +3-4db. If I'm short blocks in a "kitchen sink" preset I do the same at the Output Block.

Unity Gain (0db) means that at that point in the signal chain the signal is neither being boosted nor cut. The BIG KNOB (Volume) is Unity (0db) at the maximum setting. At less than max it CUTS the output level. It is also Unity when it is DISABLED. To do that: Global Settings>Ins/Outs>Volume Knob Controls = anything OTHER than the Outputs that you are using. So, if you're using the 1/4" Outs and never use DIGITAL, set it to DIGITAL. This way you always know what the output level is (Unity) and aren't unpleasantly surprised when you drag the guitar cable over the knob or set it differently for some reason and forget that you changed it.

This!^^^^^ I didn't think to mention it because I always just disable (by re-assigning) the BIG KNOB, which results in Unity Gain. Could very well be OP's problem, as this is a very poorly understood concept. @albertorsstake note!

Looks good with the change of FX Return. Just get the signal chain right and you should be rockin'!

I don't have the HXFX (HXS) so I'm kinda winging it here, but in theory it should be the same. First, it would help to know the make/model of the amp you're using for the dry signal. I'm ASSUMING that by "speaker line out" you mean that your amp has a "speaker emulated line out" in addition to the usual send/return fx loop. In that case, you would place any FX you want in the DRY amp before an FX SEND 1 block set to INST in Global Settings and with the THROUGH parameter in the SEND 1 Block set to -120db (OFF). SEND 1 goes to the amp's Input. The entire signal up to that point will then be routed into the DRY amp. ONLY the FX placed BEFORE the FX SEND 1 Block will be in your DRY amp. The amp's "speaker emulated line out" goes to the HXFX RETURN 2 set to LINE in Global Settings. The FX RETURN 2 Block goes right after the FX SEND 1 Block. The reason for the separate SEND and RETURN blocks (vs using an FX Loop) is because your amp's input expects an INST level signal, but the amp's "speaker emulated line out" is sending a LINE level signal back to the HXFX. All WET FX follow the FX RETURN 2 Block, and the HXFX L/R Outputs go to your SS Power amp and speakers. Where I'm a bit confused is that you mention "phase and isolation adjustments"? Is that something that you can do in your amp? Or are you using an IR in the HXFX, in which case you'd want to DISABLE the speaker emulation at the amp. This is why it helps to know the make/model of the amp.

Just one last thought before you go back to the dealer - are you certain that you are plugging your guitar into the GUITAR INPUT and not the AUX INPUT?

Closest I can come to an apples-to-apples comparison: Amp - Catalyst100 on the CRUNCH (aka Voltage - the Marshally amp) setting, all knobs at noon - crunchy. Helix settings as described except the Input Block Input-Z set to 1M - AFAIK that's the same pickup load as plugging directly into the Cat's Input, but also tried with it set to AUTO. Helix preset Input set to GUITAR, but same result on MULTI. Switching between a 6' cable from Guitar Output to the Helix Input and an 18' cable direct to the Cat (the Cat is across the room from the Helix) - actually the same cable swapped from the Helix 1/4" output to the Guitar Output. IOW, the only difference is that when the Helix is in the circuit there's an additional 6' cable between the guitar (HSS Strat on the bridge PU) and the Helix Input. New Preset (blank, no blocks). Helix 1/4" Out set to INST in Global Settings. Sounds the same to me. If anything, I'm actually getting very slightly MORE gain thru the Helix than direct to the Cat's Input, but I'm not even sure it's real, it's that slight a difference. The only way I was able to get close to what you're experiencing was to set the Input-Z to 10k Ohm, but at Auto or 1M Ohm there's no real difference. Maybe take it back to the dealer and try it through a different amp? That shouldn't matter, but short of having hands-on your rig, IDK what else to try. If the store has a Demo unit you could compare it to yours. The odds of two Helixes having this problem are pretty low. All I can add is that this is the first time I've seen this problem reported anywhere, and there's a LOT of Helixes out there! The TGP main Helix thread has nearly 74,000 posts! Good Luck!

Don't worry about it, nobody from Line6 hangs out here!

Global Settings>Ins/Outs> Guitar In Pad = OFF 1/4" Outputs = INST Global Settings>Preferences> Auto Impedance = First Enabled Preset Input Block Input Gate = OFF Guitar In-Z = Auto Input Gate = OFF Preset Output Block>Level = 0db Make sure that the Global EQ is BYPASSED. Make sure you're using a quality Instrument cable between the Helix and the Marshall. If there's still a difference change the Preset Input Block>Guitar In-Z = 1M Ohm. If there's still a difference you'll need to provide sound samples for comparison.

I have Native, Floor, HXS and Catalyst100. Each amp's BOOST is different, specific to that amp. Clarity adds a tube stage. Aristocrat adds a Kinky Boost (Xotic EP Boost). Carillion adds a "Deranged Master" Treble Booster (Dallas Rangemaster). Voltage adds a tube stage. Kinetic adds "gain and eq mods". Oblivion adds a Stupor OD (SD1). Obviously, these will all affect the amps differently. I have tested, and all work as they should (compared to the actual Catalyst) in all of the platforms, including Native. Just a suggestion - A "bug" is something that can be verified to occur for all users. You shouldn't post a "bug" in this thread until you've verified the problem in the regular thread which, in this case would have been the Helix Native thread. To avoid confusion, please remove this post as it is NOT a bug.

In HX Edit, navigate to the parameter you want to control. right click, select MIDI CC and assign the CC# you want to use. SAVE the preset. On the device depends on the device. Read the Manual for your device.

I'm pretty sure you're confusing "power consumption" and "power output". 250 watts is the OUTPUT wattage. That's RMS (continuous) vs PEAK, which would likely be around 500 watts. That's split between the LF and HF drivers, probably around 200/50. That results (per the published specs) in 125db SPL @ 1m. That's LOUD! For comparison, a 100w Marshall full stack puts out <>131db@1m. Class D amps (what's in the powercab) are (IIRC) <>90% efficient. Class AB amps much less (50%?) and Class A less than that (25%?). That means that the power CONSUMPTION should be around 275-300 watts. Per the OP's dilemma, I suspect that if he ran the PC112 at full crank (125db) it would sound like s**t and blow the speaker quickly. He'd also need hearing aids pretty quick. Realistically, the PC112 should sound good at 100-110db, and that's still pretty loud. Interesting discussion: 5W/20W/50W/100W SPL Levels For Amp Buyers | Marshall Amp Forum (marshallforum.com) Peak SPL Calculator (homestead.com)

If you're adjusting the output from the UA, you're increasing the INPUT to the PC and the clip indicator will light up. Once you have the clip indicator hitting amber you've optimized the INPUT to the PC. At that point if you're not getting enough output from the PC's speaker with the PC's Volume knob maxed, you must have a pretty loud band because lots of people use the PC112 and say it's plenty loud. There's a point where regardless of watts, one 1x12 speaker just isn't enough. That's why God invented the 4x12!

Better solution - Hum Eliminator. I use the Pyle PHE400. $30 on Amazon.

I'm not sure that I understand your question. Are you asking if it is a bug that you can do what you appear to want to do? If YES then NO, it is not a bug. It's the way it was designed to work.

If it only affects THAT preset, it's not a Helix problem. If it's a copy of another preset with a different amp/cab, you can try deleting the amp/cab, saving, then adding the amp cab back in. If it's still bad, delete the preset, and recreate it from the preset it's a copy of. Sometimes presets get corrupted because...

Those transmitters add latency to the signal and have batteries. Assuming the "horrible noise" is a ground loop (USB or audio) get a simple Hum Eliminator, it works for both, no latency or batteries and probably cheaper. I use the Pyle PHE400 - $30 on Amazon.

When wonky stuff happens out of the blue, start with a factory reset. Computer gremlins are real. Don't forget to back up first!

If you mean within a preset, switch to a mode where the footswitches ONLY send MIDI, no. You COULD assign unused snapshots to send a specific set of MIDI commands using the ICs (instant commands) without changing anything in the active preset.

In case you missed this in my reply to @datacommando, here it is again. The attached example preset uses snapshots assigned to a stomp fs. Best I could do, hope it works for you! gpicard5.hlx

Thanks. Does that make you Tonto? ;-) Tonto usually saves the LR's bacon, but gets his butt kicked a lot. Considering the grief I got over on TGF I'm feeling more like Tonto lately! At around 2:40 in the video, before he adds the trem, you can see him switching the amps. It looks like his clean amp is using the stock RED (DIM), but the lead amp is using another color. Maybe it's just the way his camera shows the red when it's LIT?

I got this to work using snapshots assigned to a footwitch, but still can't do it using a footswitch alone. Attached preset shows how I did it. gpicard5.hlx

@datacommando- as sometimes happens we were posting at the same time and you hit SAVE first, so when I saved your post appeared. I watched the video which is not very helpful regarding the OP's question. Dude is basically winging it and filming the video at the same time. Somehow he seems to have both amps using different colors and I can't figure out how. Can you?