rd2rk

If you mean the LED rings there's a setting: Global Settings>Displays>LED Rings Dim/Brt. The color of the LED Ring is assignable in Bypass/Controller Assign, but it will be one or the other, the color won't toggle. Which active effect causes the ring to be bright or dim can be changed by touching the switch if Global Settings>Preferences>Footswitches>Stomp Select is set to TOUCH or BOTH. If you mean the blocks in the signal chain I don't know of any way to do that. The active Block is always bright.

If you use Helix on a carpet it seems much harder than necessary. I solved this problem by getting a cheap little shelf from Home Depot to set my Helix on, but any stiff board will do. The switch is no more trouble than my Dunlop wah when used like this.

AFAICT, you can set the BlueBoard to control the footswitches with CC#s 49, 50 and 51, but the only VALUES it can send are 0 and 127. In the video, he is using the HXS Footswitch CCs (49,50,51) but he is already in SNAPSHOT MODE. In order to select Snapshots without already being in SS MODE you need to be able to send CC#69 with VALUES - 0 (SS1);1 (SS2);2 (SS3). In order to switch MODES using MIDI you need to be able to send CC#71 with values of 0-5. There are other relatively inexpensive wireless controllers which can send customizable values such as the Hotone Ampero Control.

We cannot agree to disagree on this subject because it works the way it works and that is easy enough to prove. Set your Globals as follows: Preferences: SS Edits = RECALL SS Reselect = RELOAD MIDI: SS CC Send = ON On a New Preset set IC1 on SS1 to send a CC# other than 0. I assume that you are using a MIDI Monitor to track what the Helix is sending. Select SS1. What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 0 and whatever you set on IC1. Reselect SS1. What's sent is ONLY CC#69 with a Value of 0. Select SS2. What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 1 and CC#0 Value 0. Reselect SS1.What's sent is CC#69 with a Value of 0 and whatever you set on IC1. Now go back to Global>MIDI and disable "Snapshot CC Send" (OFF). Repeat the above sequence. Everything related to IC messages remains the same. CC#69 is no longer sent. "Snapshot CC Send" does NOT affect IC function, it ONLY enables/disables sending of CC#69 on SS select. I am not relating this from memory. I followed the procedure I described so that I would be certain that this test will prove what I'm saying. I've been using CommandCenter since the day it was released (LONG ago). You are not the first to be confused by this. I may have been the first :-P If you still don't believe it, contact support and ask them.

When I said that it enables automatically sending i did not mean that it enables automatically, I meant that it enables the snapshots to automatically (Globally, and by default) to send CC#69 on snapshot selection. No. "Snapshot CC Send" ONLY enables/disables sending of CC#69. Sending anything via IC is ALWAYS enabled. "Snapshot CC Send" has NO effect on the IC functions.

"Snapshot CC Send" enables/disables automatically sending CC#69 when a snapshot is selected, not CCs assigned to ICs or Switches. You only need that enabled if you're controlling a second Helix or recording MIDI to automate a performance. It works the same way as "MIDI PC Send", which enables/disables sending the default PC# but does not affect PC#s assigned to ICs or Switches. The reason it seems like it doesn't work when all ICs send the same command (apart from the above explanation) but appears to work when the ICs send different commands is because once a command is sent on an IC, it won't be sent again until a different command is sent.

The problem with these multi-board confabulations is that each FX Loop adds <>3.6ms latency (1.8 Helix S/R+1.8 HXFX S/R) to the Helix's <>3ms end to end latency. It also adds two additional potential cable fail points. If you're connecting two Helixes, using SPDIF eliminates one of the converter latencies, but the SPDIF cables/connections themselves are not very robust and can only be used to connect the two boards In to Out to IN like one giant serial device loop. It enables creation of the ultimate "kitchen sink" preset to be sure but, TBH, until the advent of the poly pitch and feedbacker FX, I never had a situation where I ran out of DSP with my Helix. The Helix/HXFX routing described above adds up to less than the RIAA recognized 10ms threshold of latency perception - slightly more if you use both loops, but still not really perceptible to most people - but add a wireless, that's another 1.8ms + a frelling BATTERY and potential 2.5mhz band external interference... It adds up. I'd rather minimize all that and just stick with my Helix all by its lonesome and connect my guitar with an old-fashioned cable. Well, new-fangled low-capacitance cable, but you get the picture. High-tech minimalism! In fact, since I got my Catalyst I off-load the delay and reverb to the Cat, save Helix DSP and don't even need 4cm anymore! Works for Me!

It's kind of like having 1024 HUGE pedalboards and being able to add your choice of 128 satellite boards, on demand, anywhere in the signal chain.

Since the HXFX doesn't have the Input Auto Impedance feature you might want to run your guitar into Helix, use a Helix Send to the HXFX Input, HXFX Send back to Helix Return, Helix amp, Helix Send 2 to HXFX Return, HXFX Send 2 back to Helix Return 2>Helix Main Outs. By combining both Helix Paths (1A->2A) and placing the FX Loop Blocks wherever the DSP is needed you've increased your total DSP by 50% and retained the versatility of the Auto Impedance feature. Keep in mind though that the Auto Impedance will only be affected by the Blocks preceding the first Send to the HXFX, as the Send is set at 1M.

The flashing USB icon is telling you there's no connection. Yes, it's unfortunate that there's no manual. I suspect that's a necessary cost saving move, since it would need to be translated into several languages and re-translated with any updates that occur. The Catalyst is a budget amp and I'd rather pay less for it than pay for translations. The good news is that Catalyst Edit is a pretty simple app and most icons can be figured out by mouse clicking (right/left and whatever the MAC kids do) on the icons and studying the results. If you're still confused feel free to ask here!

The Ruby is a VOX type AIAB. You'll likely be using it in place of the HXS amps. You'll want it in an FX Loop placed after WAH, OD and possibly MODs. Unless you're going for classic surf or Pink Floyd type ambient effects you'll usually want it placed before delays and reverbs. The Golden is a Reverb and the Galaxy is a Tape Echo (delay) and Reverb. As mentioned, the usual place for these is after the amp. All 3 are stereo. The HXS has only ONE stereo loop. If you want to use all of them in stereo they'll need to be placed all together in the FX Loop or hard wired pre or post HXS. Again, unless you're going for special FX you'll most likely want the Reverb/Delay at the end of the signal chain so the Galaxy/Golden can go between the Main Outputs and mixer/powered speakers/amps to conserve FX Blocks/DSP. If you're a Ventures/Floyd fanatic you might want them BEFORE the HXS. Keep in mind that if you place them before the HXS, you probably don't want to use much else (especially dirt) before the Ruby, as reverb into dirt generally doesn't sound all that great. That leaves the Ruby. ITRW, Vox amps are not stereo. The only reason to use it like that is if you want your signal chain to be end-to-end stereo. For instance, you might want certain MOD FX before the amp but want them in stereo. Keep in mind that if you place any MONO Block after a STEREO Block the signal is collapsed to MONO. Lastly, I mentioned the difference between placing delay/reverb before or after the amp (the Ruby). Your options are limited in terms of flexibility when you run full stereo. Running MONO you could put the Ruby in one MONO FX Loop and the Galaxy in the other. That would allow you the option of placing the Galaxy/Golden pre or post Ruby depending upon what you're after in a given preset. You can't do that if the Galaxy/Golden is hard wired pre or post the HXS itself. Hope I've provided some food for thought.

I use an iPad, so not much I can contribute other than to make sure that your Android device and OS version are compatible with Catalyst Edit and try another cable. Good luck!

You're in the Helix forum. Someone might know, but you might also weant to try here: POD Farm / POD Studio / TonePort - Line 6 Community

How about the other way around - if you turn a knob on the amp, is it reflected in the app? Also, does the app see the names of the presets on the amp and the different settings?

IF the isolator you choose works, it might only work until you add something else to your USB array. That was my experience. My solution was to place a simple Hum Eliminator - $20-$30 on Amazon - between the Helix and powered speaker.

Welcome to the forum. Just want to start you off on the right foot by pointing out that for your very first post you chose to reply to a 4 year old post. I realize that your reference to needing a "Phd in computers and electronics" was simply hyperbole, but digital multifx units ARE computers, and to use them to maximum effect you need to connect them TO a computer so, yes, you DO need to understand at least the basics of computers to use them. Part of that is reading the manuals that come with your devices (or, these days, need to be downloaded). Nobody wants to hear this, and many get highly offended, but the reality is that if you can't handle those basic facts you really should stick with tube amps and analog pedals. The greatest music ever made was done using those primitive devices! That said, note that the OP never returned to the thread and in total has only 4 posts in 4 years. That indicates to me that they either figured it out and lived happily ever after or traded their Helix for a tube amp and analog pedal board. Or switched to drums ;-) Anyhow, take heart, it's NOT rocket science and you CAN figure it out. We're here if you have specific questions. Rock On!

Is the HXFX USB connected to a computer? Try unplugging it.

What @silverheadsaid. Assuming that you have the ME Sp1-L6H (two outputs) if it was working you likely had the cables connected correctly to the TRS input. If you didn't accidentally change something in your Global Settings, the procedure when POSITION doesn't work is as follows (Page 48 in the version of the manual that I have) after selecting the WAH Block: 1. From Stomp mode, press and hold the knob for the parameter you wish to control. **That's POSITION in your case, Knob 1. HX Stomp XL jumps to the Controller Assign page and displays your parameter at Knob 1 (Parameter) **That's POSITION in your case. 2. Press PAGE and then press Knob 3 (Learn). The button’s brain icon glows blue. 3. Step on a footswitch, move a connected expression pedal, send a MIDI CC message from your external MIDI controller device, computer software, etc. The controller you selected is “Learned” and assigned. NOTE: To manually select a controller, turn Knob 2 (Controller). That's the same procedure as my HXS. I just turn knob 2. If the above is not the issue, check your cables. I can't think of much else that can go wrong, but TBH, I've had the problem myself, usually when I'm winging around trying a bunch of different things, never just out of the blue. If it happens again after you get it working, try to remember what you were doing just prior to the fail. It might have happened to me when I have the SP1 assigned to different FX parameters in different Snapshots. That's just spitballing though and would most likely have been my own error in setting up the snapshots..

BS has to be set to receive on Ch1. In Global Settings>MIDI, set MIDI PC TX to OFF (prevents the default PC# being sent); Snapshot CC Send to OFF (because IDK what CC#69 does in the BS). HXFX default snapshot (the one SAVED with the preset that loads on preset load) Instant Command1 (lightning bolt) is what you set to Bank/Prog 38.

I'm still hunting for the legendary "kerrang". Must be hanging around with Bigfoot...

It sounds good out of the box TO YOU. MAYBE the CUT control does the trick. Maybe the speaker on its own sounds awful and nobody would WANT to use it by itself. The EQ controls are nice to have and may be very useful with modelers/AIAB boards that don't have Global EQ, and initial reports from early adopters are that the FR does sound very good. Time will tell concerning the "hiss" issue. The point I'm making is that the PC has a lot of options the FR does not. Not everybody wants all of those options and for them, the FR could well be the answer. No objective BEST here, just what works best for each user.

Well PRAISE OUR FORD! We FINALLY have an AUTHENTIC(?) 2203 with BRIGHT CAP! It sounds EXACTLY like CRUSHED GLASS AZZ! OK, maybe I just haven't figured out how to use it yet. I'll spend some more time with it this weekend, maybe I'll have an epiphany.

My update configuration on both devices and computers was identical to yours (W10 fully updated). Guess we'll have to wait to see if anyone else with HXFX encounters this. In the meantime you should contact support.

Might be helpful to include little details like what kind of computer/OS/updating from version#. Also, are you using a hub or direct to a known MB USB port? I don't have HXFX, but just updated both HXS and Helix Floor on separate computers with no problems.

Over on TGP, DI (Digital Igloo - Eric Klein, boss dude) has stated that he HOPES to have the update out by December, but they're still squashing bugs.