rd2rk

FWIW - I keep FS2 on EFFECT and use Channel B for BOOST with mild EQ changes to help it cut.

TL;DR - YMMV OPINION: AITR room is a unicorn. It's the sound of a specific amp, played thru a specific speaker in a specific cab, in a specific room with specific room dampening factors including how many people are in the room with you, on a day with specific temperature and humidity factors. IOW - you already HAVE AITR. You can tell because you can hear the sound and you're not wearing headphones. You just don't like it. That said: Powercab is a wooden cabinet, tuned for the Eminence speaker(s) it contains, so it will ALWAYS sound more like a real guitar cab than a plastic PA style FRFR speaker or studio monitors. My HR FRFR112 sounds as good as my PC212+ in FRFR mode, just different. There's 3 "FLAT" modes - FRFR, LF FLAT, LF RAW. The difference between them is shrouded in mystery. Here's the OFFICIAL explanation: "Essentially full-range, flat-response, and equivalent to the signal being sent to a front-of-house mixer. This mode is most helpful for simple plug-and-play compatibility, letting your amp modeler do all the work. This mode is ideal for simply plugging in as if you were connecting directly to a PA, active monitor, or recording interface. It provides a flat frequency response, ideal for guitar signals that already include cabinet emulation or for playing back music and backing tracks." I have always assumed that: FRFR meant speaker EQ'd Flat + HF Driver LF FLAT meant speaker EQ'd FLAT, no HF Driver LF RAW meant the RAW speaker with NO EQ applied. BUT... see below. Also, the Powercab, even the stereo PC212+ that I have, sounds like crap for music playback. Speaker Emulation Mode "Intended to respond like a real guitar speaker for a traditional "amp-in-the-room" experience. This mode applies different tonal characteristics of the selected speaker model to the system's coaxial driver, with the following adjustable parameters." This is supposed to be the "AITR" sound, but real guitar cabs don't have a coaxial driver so??? What's more, if you select a speaker type, then go into the Edit App and disable the HF Driver, nothing changes so, again, ??? Anyhow, pick a speaker type. I look at it like this - if, instead of claiming to emulate real world speakers, they had simply named them "Speaker 1", Speaker 2" etc, we'd have all been better off. When crafting a tone, just try them until you find one that suits the tone you're after. There's only 12, so LOTS easier than an IR pack with 3000 variations! There's also a Speaker Emulation called "Natural" which is supposedly the sound of the RAW speaker, but it sounds different than LF Flat or LF RAW (which sound the same), so who knows what's really going on with that. If anyone reading this has a link to an OFFICIAL L6 explanation of the "Natural" emulation that says more than: "HF OFF / Natural – This is the natural sound and feel of the speaker in the Powercab with the high-frequency compression driver disabled and no EQ of any kind applied" Please post it. Confused yet? Go to Sweetwater. search for "Guitar amp". There's hundreds. Search for "Guitar Cabinet". There's hundreds. Which one provides "AITR" feel? ALL of them. Buy a Powercab from a source with a good returns policy. RTM!!! Try everything. BE ESPECIALLY MINDFUL OF KEEPING THE CLIP LED IN THE YELLOW/AMBER WHEN TESTING! If you don't find something you like, buy a Fender or a Marshall or a ??? FINAL WORD: As mentioned, I have a PC212+, which I like better that the PC112+ that preceded it. I also have a Catalyst100. Which one I prefer depends upon my mood and the temperature/humidity that day. They both sound like AITR. They both sound LOTS BETTER than my decent quality studio monitors, which don't sound half bad. YMMV.

Plug in the FS. Turn on the amp. Press the MANUAL button. Press FS 2. If that doesn't toggle the BOOST, then: Connect to your computer with a USB cable. DL and install the Catalyst Edit App - there are versions for PC, MAC and iOS. Open the app. Click the SETTINGS icon - the gear looking thingy on the right end of the Menu Bar at the top. In the pop-up, at the lower right corner is a FS icon - FS2. In the pop-up select BOOST BYPASS. Press FS 2.

Do you have an FX Loop Block in the signal chain? Are you using the matching S/R jacks? Are you using the amp's S/R jacks, NOT the "Pre Out"? If you jumper the S/R jacks on the amp, are you still getting sound? Are you SURE all of your cables are good? Proper wiring using FX Loop 1 Block in signal chain: Guitar>Helix Input>Helix Send 1>Amp Input>Amp Send>Helix Return 1>Helix L/MONO Output>Amp Return EDIT: If you're using separate SEND and RETURN Blocks as some YT wizards suggest, is the "Dry Thru" on the SEND Block set to -120db? If not, that could explain the added "clean" signal you hear. The MIX on the RETURN Block should be 100%.

As I mentioned, the 1st gen Scarletts had weak preamps. The main problem there was distortion with hotter signals. Whichever input you're using, make sure that the LT's Outputs are set to match - XLR = MIC;1/4" set to INST = INST. 48v Phantom = OFF! Don't disregard the other settings I mentioned.

Nobody from L6 hangs out here, and AFAIK they don't EVER consult with us users about their plans. They do, however, solicit suggestions HERE: Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) Search first so as not to dilute the vote. Post your ideas separately. I, for one, NEVER vote for multiple ideas in a single post.

Wrong forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here. If you really want the L6 folks to see your suggestions post them here: Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) Search first so as not to dilute the vote. Post your ideas separately. I, for one, NEVER vote for multiple ideas in a single post.

"sounds like it's not enabled"??? What does that mean? My Helix XLR Outs are set to MIC and connected to a MIC input on my Scarlett with the GAIN knob full counterclockwise (OFF/0db) and it sounds great. Has been connected like that for years. As posted on the TGP big Helix thread by @Digital_Iglooaka Eric Klein, head high engineering mucky-muck (I forget his actual title) at L6: "Helix should never be connected to mic preamps whose phantom power may be on. If one's mixer is cheap and has global phantom power, run into the balanced line inputs instead." If your XLRs sound like whatever you're trying to describe as "not enabled" then there's something else going on. Check your Scarlett manual to make sure you've got it configured right - the Solo has changed over the generations and the preamps on the 1st gen were weak - or set your 1/4" Outs to INST and use a proper guitar cable to connect to the Scarlett's instrument input with the INST button ON and the GAIN knob set per the manual. Make sure that your LT's INPUT PAD (Global Settings>Ins/Outs) is set to OFF for SC pups, ON for high output HB's. In "Global Settings>Preferences" set "Auto Impedance" to FIRST ENABLED and in the Input Block of your presets set "Guitar In-Z" to AUTO. Turn OFF the "INPUT GATE" unless you need it for really noisy SC's. The VOLUME KNOB is not a boost, it's a cut. Dimed is 0db. I usually disable mine so that the default is 0db. In your presets, leave the Output Block at 0db. That's the best I can offer without knowing better what you mean by "sounds like it's "not enabled".

By default the computer sound is entering the Helix signal chain AT the Main Outs. Instead of using the 1/4" Outs for your amps, place a Stereo Send immediately before the Output Block with the Dry Thru set to -120db (OFF). Use the Send 1/2 (or3/4) to connect to your amps. This prevents the guitar signal from reaching the XLRs and prevents the computer signal from reaching the amps. If you're recording the guitar in a DAW, make sure that the Track Monitor Switch is OFF to prevent the guitar signal from mixing with the other recorded sounds going to the DAW's MAIN OUTPUTS which in turn go to the Helix MAIN OUTPUTS. Example preset attached. StaccoP2P.hlx

I assume that you REALLY LIKE the NUX, which is why you're considering getting a HXFX vs just replacing the NUX with a HXSXL. DISCLAIMER! The following is based on my reading of the Amp Academy Manual. I don't own one. TL;DR - Yes, 4cm will work fine with HXFX and the NUX. With a real guitar amp, placing the time-based FX in the FX loop puts them BETWEEN the pre-amp OUT and power-amp IN sections. With a real amp's FX loop, you're not running the FX after the power amp. Trying to do that would destroy your FX unit unless you're using some sort of reactive load. Your NUX combines the pre and power amp sections of a real amp, with its FX loop AFTER the power amp. The difference being that the NUX power amp is a SIMULATION of a power amp. To actually drive a speaker you still need a real power amp. Here's how I would do this: Guitar>HXFX Input*>HXFX OD/DIST/MODs>HXFX SEND>NUX Input>NUX NR/FX if desired>NUX Amp section>NUX SEND>HXFX RETURN>> >>HXFX time-based FX>HX Out>NUX RETURN>NUX Reverb>NUX Out>power-amp and cab or FRFR and DI to FOH Set the HXFX Input, S/R and Output to INST. Here you have decisions to make. Reverb is a big DSP hog, especially spring. The above configuration allows you to use the NUX Reverb without or in addition to the HXFX reverbs. If you're using HXFX MODs before the NUX, you may not want to use the NUX ODs. OTOH, sometimes that sounds good (somebody once claimed...). You can add the NUX built-in cab sim to either (both?) the 1/4" out for a stage monitor (with for FRFR, w/o for guitar amp return) and to the XLR out for FOH (default?). If you use a guitar amp for a stage monitor, be aware that a tube amp will add its own "color" to the power amp simulation being provided by the NUX. You might like it, or not. When I use my Helix as you're describing, for a stage monitor I'm using either an FRFR or the power amp in of my Catalyst 100. The Cat's SS amp is flat relative to a tube amp. IOW - for a stage monitor you probably want to use a SS amp (such as a Seymour Duncan Powerstage) into a guitar speaker cab (w/o cab sim) or an FRFR (with cab sim). * Unlike the Helix and HXS/HXSXL, the HXFX input does not have the auto-impedance circuitry. Helix FX are very accurately modeled, so without this circuitry certain FX, particularly Fuzzes which have <1M input impedance, might not sound right. NBD unless you're really into the Fuzz Face.

Global Settings>Displays>Tap LED = OFF

If that's not the issue, perform a factory reset (backup first!). Usually cures random came-out-of-nowhere type problems.

Global Settings>Preferences>Auto Impedance = First Enabled In your presets: Input Block>Guitar In Z = Auto The Input Impedance determines how the guitar's pickups are "loaded". When the Input Impedance is less than 1M (standard for amp inputs) high frequencies are attenuated. This is key to getting authentic tone from certain effects, particularly fuzzes, whose inputs are <1M.

While I've never experienced these problems, apparently, some people have. I very much hope that you've all opened support tickets and are actively working with support to resolve the issues. I also very much hope that you report back here with the results of those efforts, in detail, so that others may benefit. All too often when someone reports what they think is a bug, a solution is found, but they never report back, leaving the next user who has the problem thinking that their experience is unique (or that L6 support sucks), and so it goes, round and round.

Most AIs don't have XLR outs, but adapters work fine. My Scarlett has balanced outs, so balanced 1/4" to XLR cables do the trick. These are the ones I've been using for 7 years. Very nice cables. Amazon.com: Monoprice XLR Male to 1/4-Inch TRS Male Cable - 6 Feet - Black, 16AWG, Gold Plated, High Fidelity and Eliminate Noise in the Recording Studio and On Stage - Premier Series : Musical Instruments For short runs (<20ft) unbalanced 1/4" to XLR can also be gotten, but most quality AIs will have balanced outs.

AMAZING! A new piece of gear that I'm in absolutely NO danger of wanting! Everything that's BAD about the BOSS stuff (fixed blocks, BTS!) and none of the good - seriously, no OUTPUT level knob on the panel??? What planet was this designed on?

You'd need a DAW or VST Host for Native but, yes, that would work. Just don't cheap out on the sound card because your playing enjoyment will depend in large part on the latency (time between when you pick a note and when you hear it), and that depends on the quality of the sound card and how low you can set the buffers, which depends in part on your computer's processor and memory. There're also some system configuration considerations, so Google that. Most mfrs of Audio Interfaces have a section on their websites covering the basics.

Replied over there, thanks for that link, turning off HW Compatibility solved it. Hopefully somebody knows a better solution.

@datacommando - thanks for that link - IDK why it didn't come up when I searched for the error code but anyhow, turning off HW Compatibility did the trick. I'll have to read the rest of that thread later to see if any better solutions came up. This came up because I spent most of the day comparing plugins, particularly Rectifiers from AT5, ToneX and NDSP. Had a lot of fun. They all sound good. There really isn't anything really bad out there anymore. Well, I haven't tried Positive Grid lately...

Posted this in the Native thread but don't know how active that is so posting here too. When I try to load a Native preset I get this error: Failed to load preset Unable to decrypt asset (code-1116) Anybody know what's wrong? All other plugins (AT5, ToneX, S-Gear, THU, NDSP) running fine.

When I try to load a a Native preset I get this error: Failed to load preset Unable to decrypt asset (code-1116) Anybody know what's wrong? All other plugins (AT5, ToneX, S-Gear, THU, NDSP) running fine.

I'm sure you've seen my posts on TGP, so I'll just address the "crazy" aspect of your question. EVERYTHING we use has an EOL after which it will no longer be supported by the mfr. ANY modern electronics, especially if it contains a processor of any sort, may have a shelf-life in addition to its mfr's EOL date after which it can no longer be repaired. L6's behavior as regards this product is as reprehensible as their support for Helix is exceptional. The most important thing to keep in mind is that this product sounds GREAT to some people and utter garbage to others. YMMV in the truest sense. If money is tight, don't do it. If you can get a used one at a reasonable price, go for it! If you can get one new at a nearby store with a good returns policy, go for it! I have the PC212+. Some days I love it, some days not so much. I vacillate regarding getting a PC112+ to try again (I didn't like it first time around) so I'll have a more practical grab'n'go rig with my Helix. Money's not (critically) tight. There's a GC nearby. I'm crazy.

I'm afraid that one doesn't have a cure. It's actually the behavior that led me to the solution of the other problem. It drove me a little nuts because depending upon where exactly you hit the locator switch in relation to where the next snapshot change is it seems to behave differently. I'm not sure if it's possible in Ableton to see exactly where the recorded MIDI is located on the track timeline (it should be, you can in Reaper), you'd have to RTM to find out, but that might allow you to better time your locator selections or place your locators.

My apologies. I've been telling you to use a Value of 0. Try 127. Apparently, during my first test I recorded Snapshot changes. While my SS1 CC Values were set to 0, when the recording changed to SS2 they were set to 127 so without noticing the SS change I was using 127 the whole time! DOH! What a dummy! Anyhow, I re-did the test on my studio system with Helix connected thru my Focusrite and using 127 as a Value all is well. That SHOULD work for you. Snapshots aren't sending because you have "Snapshot CC Send" set to OFF. Sorry for the mix-up.

THIS!^^^^^ The GLOBAL SETTING for Snapshot Edits, if set to RECALL, is useful when making multiple changes to multiple Snapshots in that you only NEED to SAVE the Preset once when done. However, when playing, if you change something on the fly and then change Snapshots, that change will continue to be applied until you switch Presets. If that's what you want, great. if not then you want that setting to be DISCARD. Remember that, in the case of the BYPASS function, if you want a change to be recalled across Snapshots (IOW - you want to change a normally active or bypassed BLOCK and have it retain that state across Snapshots) you can disable that block's "Snapshot Bypass" function. That DOES NOT work for parameters, just BYPASS, and the BYPASS state returns to it's SAVED state when you leave the Preset. All that said, I always leave the Snapshot Edit setting OFF. I've just forced myself to make it a habit to SAVE Snapshot changes before leaving the Snapshot.