rd2rk

I'm not clear on your connections. The digital cable works with the PC112+, yes? The digital cable works with the PC212+, yes? You connected a digital cable from Helix to the PC?+, then connected another digital cable from the PC?+ to the other PC+? and something didn't work, yes? Depends on your needs. If all you want is audio, connect two XLRs to the PC212+ (for stereo) and one XLR from the PC212+ L/Mono Out to the PC112+. If you want to control the whole thing on a per preset basis then you need the digital cables.

Ben was speaking of normal citizens. The very poor, with no income or assets, pay no taxes. The very rich often pay little in taxes. They pay accountants and lawyers instead.

Today I drove my car. I knew there was a possibility that I could be involved in an accident, but it didn't happen. Perhaps not the best analogy, but I've had my Helix since 2016 and done every update as soon as it was available. Never had an issue. Not saying that it doesn't happen, but if you backup beforehand you can always roll back the update if something breaks. Life is a constant risk with only one guaranteed outcome - death. Live for today. Act BOLDLY! Update NOW! (unless you have a gig tonight...)

Seems like it should work. Though, unless you already have the SP1, seems a pretty expensive solution.

It's possible that L6 will implement this pedal after you post this idea on ideascale and it receives a significant # of votes from other adoring fans. :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) :-) IOW - nobody from L6 hangs out here, just us users. Post the idea HERE: https://line6.ideascale.com/c/ SEARCH FIRST so as not to dilute the vote through multiple requests.

Yes. I frequently create HXS presets on my office system and later transfer them to my Floor.

I second the idea of a backup. Mine is an HXS. I doubt your assertion of cheap components, and some (if not most) of the best electronics gear in the world is made in China. Sad, but true. Switches are moving parts and even the best can sometimes go bad.

example: Amazon.com: Behringer MICROAMP HA400 Ultra-Compact 4 Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier,Silver : Electronics dozens more available.

The point of "modeling" is to get an accurate representation of the real amp. If the real amp has no MV and 10 = the real amp, then if you lower the MV then you no longer have an accurate representation of the real amp. The fact is, some NMV amps, ITRW, start to distort at really low settings. For instance, a Fender Deluxe Reverb is well into distortion by around 5 on the dial and at that point is also about as loud as it gets (pretty loud!). Beyond 5 it doesn't really get a lot louder, just more distorted. The EH-185, if modeled using the MIC channel as I suspect, is all about GAIN. In 1939 guitarists didn't really play all that loud with Big Bands and wanted their sounds to be as clean as possible. Putting the guitar into the MIC channel caused a distorted sound that blues guys liked. OTOH, amps like the HiWatt at 100 watts were designed to be really clean and also REALLY LOUD, so you can crank both the GAIN and the MASTER and it'll still be relatively clean.

Many have commented, here and elsewhere, that the factory amp settings incorporate way too much gain up front and too high MASTER VOLUME settings. If you turn down either or both of these and the problem goes away (as I attempted to demonstrate with the preset I attached above) then the problem is not the HW or the FW, it's the settings applied and how they respond to your pickups and playing technique. If you've tried the above remedies without success and are totally convinced that there's a HW or SW/FW problem, do the following: After backing up your custom presets, reinstall the FW BEING VERY CAREFUL TO FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS! Part of those instructions is to perform a Factory Reset AFTER the FW installation. Before restoring your presets (you can restore the Global Settings separately), test the amps that seemed to be problematic, keeping in mind the GAIN/MASTER adjustments I talked about. If you still have the problem you can either: Open a Support Ticket (recommended). OR Sell your Helix and try something else. I've had mine since 2016 and do not have this problem with either low output Strat SC's or high output HB's, nor do I have either of the other commonly cited problems, inability to get a truly pristine CLEAN tone or "The high gain amps don't CHUG!".

escrementi bovini!

If you happen to be in the market for an Audio Interface some (iConnectivity comes to mind) also have a MIDI HOST Port. Two birds with one stone?

I think that what you're hearing is a very accurate model of a 1939 amplifier. Attached is an A/B type preset. FS10 (might be different on your LT) toggles the Stone Age and Who Watt. FS11 toggles the 1x12 Field Coil and 1x12 Grammatico. On the Stone Age I've reduced the GAIN to 2. All of the distortion and "crackling" that I heard with the GAIN at its default setting is gone. Michelle.hlx

This is the use case that calls for the Cat100/200 which have MIDI DIN ports. The cables you're looking for don't exist because DIN to USB requires a "HOST" to do the translation. You can do this with a computer, or a device like this: Amazon.com: CAMOLA USB MIDI Host Box High Speed USB to MIDI Converter MIDI Interface( UMH-21) : Everything Else From a computer you would use either a DAW or something like MIDIOX. Either can be configured to take the MIDI over USB from the HXS and send it via USB to the Cat60.

Did you try changing the speaker as I suggested?

That's the way Stone Age sounds. That is NOT digital clipping. Turn down the Drive if you want it cleaner, but it never gets perfectly clean. That's its charm. Here's a link to some info about the original EH-185: ’39 Gibson EH-185 | Vintage Guitar® magazine I'm guessing here, but L6 probably modeled the Mic Input. The default speaker it's paired with (new speaker cabs) is the 1x12 Grammatico. Sounds awful IMO. Try it with the Legacy 1x12 Field Coil. Sounds WAY better, more like it's described in the linked article. There's a lot of good speakers that didn't make it into the first release of the new cabs. The 1x12 Field coil is one, and I hope it makes it into the next update. It makes all the difference to how this amp sounds.

Wrong forum. Nobody from L6 hangs out here. If you really want the L6 folks to see your suggestions post them here: Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) Search first so as not to dilute the vote. Post your ideas separately. I, for one, NEVER vote for multiple ideas in a single post.

Open a support ticket?

What are you listening to it through? I ran a LP through the EH185 (Pad OFF) into the poweramp on my Catalyst, a PC212+ and my Rokit 6 monitors. The Rokits were harsher sounding than the others, but nothing approaching digital clipping. If this is happening on ALL Helix amps, then try a Factory Reset. That should fix it if it's a Helix problem. If not, then can you record what you're hearing and attach a clip?

I DL'd the free iPad Version and, yes, it picks up the signal from the Cat. Channels 1/2 are the Cat processed signal, channels 3/4 are the DI (unprocessed signal. I imagine you'd use 3/4 if you wanted to use the GarageBand amps. I don't see that the free iOS version does MIDI, but you can use MIDI from normal DAW SW to control the Cat, so if your version does that then I don't see any reason it wouldn't work. L6 may have been offering a free DAW with purchase at some point - Ableton LIVE Lite, IIRC. The dirty little secret about these "Buy NOW and get FREE DAW!" offers is that if you go to the DAW website you can DL the free "lite" version anytime. Among others, I have Ableton LIVE Lite v11. Very nice DAW. Full versions pricey, but if you're into Electronica, especially live performance, LIVE is the way to go. Better yet (IMO) is to get REAPER (Cockos). Use it (full function) for FREE until your conscience starts bugging you (it doesn't nag you, just reminds you when you first load it), then pay (currently) $60 for a LIFETIME license. GREAT DAW! LOTS of online support, great friendly Forum, THOUSANDS of YT vids on most every aspect of using it. As for iOS, I use AUM. MUCH more sophisticated that the free GB version I DL'd but then, I only spent a few minutes with GB to verify that it works with the CAT.

Let us know the outcome. This is a problem I haven't seen before.

Contact support.

Try rebooting while holding the Ch B and Manual buttons.

It looks like all you're doing is changing the amp. To change Banks you need to hold down the MANUAL button while turning the Amp Knob.

FRFR on the PC means that the base Eminence speaker is EQ'd to be FLAT and the HF Driver is added on top. If you use the IR on the PC it defaults to FRFR mode. It saves you that block on the Helix and the DSP it uses. If you use the IR on the Helix you have a choice. FRFR mode adds HF content that you don't hear (or does not exist) using a normal guitar speaker, which starts to cut at 5-6kHz. This is viewed as adding "definition" and "crispness". You can also use LF Flat mode. This EQ's the base Eminence speaker to be flat, which allows the IR's unique "coloration" to be applied and contributes to the "amp in the room" experience without the unnatural highs of FRFR. One is not necessarily better than the other. Try both and use the one you like best. FWIW - I climbed out of the IR rabbit hole. I don't like FRFR. I use the Speaker Emulations on the PC and the PC's XLR outs to FOH (an emulation of the emulation). It's the FOH tech's job to make you sound good to the audience, and trying to interfere with their methods typically does not go well. You'll either sound good or you won't. We have enough on our plates just to sound good on stage (assuming we're ALLOWED to have sound on stage), there's no point worrying about things we have little or no control over. IEM's are a whole other can of worms.