rd2rk

IDK about those who are reporting sound on one side when hard panned the other way or volume all the way down, I've never had the problem. For those who report unbalanced R/L levels, check anything in the signal chain that's stereo. Not just panning, but Stereo cabs/IRs. Different speakers/IRs and or mics used in the Helix Dual Cab/IR Blocks will output different levels. Likewise, fx in split paths can have different apparent levels, even if the actual levels are equal. Just some thoughts. Since I've never had the problem, I can't suggest an absolute solution. One thing though. If you open a support ticket and get a solution, PLEASE come back here and tell the rest of the community!

IMO, the Catalyst will be just fine.

I just responded over on TGP, but here it is again: Yes. The real question is, do you NEED all of that power? Do you think you might EVER need all that power? Assuming that you have a decent computer and an audio interface, download the Helix Native trial. Download the manuals for the LT, XL and Native. Read them. Use Native in Hardware Compatibility Mode for the XL and compare that to the LT Mode. IF you can get all the sounds you think you'll ever need with the XL, there's your answer. Or you could skip the above and read the opinions of 100 random anonymous internet presences. Here's my opinion, and I'm much like you, a home player. I have BOTH the HX Stomp (XL with less switches) and Helix Floor. I could survive with just the HXS. The Floor is far superior.

Each "Bank" consists of two "Channels". In reality, each Bank consists of two Presets. Each can be whatever you want it to be. Different amps, different effects, different reverbs, different settings for each. The MIDI PC#s for each of those Presets are in the manual on page 12 (English). It's also possible to change the effects themselves via MIDI. For instance, a Preset (Channel) has a Delay saved. Sending this series of MIDI messages: PC#3 //Selects Bank 2 Channel A CC#19 Value 1 //Selects MOD Category CC#58 Value 2 //Selects Script Mod Phaser CC#28 Value 127 //Turns Effect ON Note that the new effect will remain on in that Channel between Channel changes but will revert to the SAVED effect if you switch Banks and then return. IOW - if both Channels have a delay and you change to the phaser on Channel A, Channel B will still have the delay, and Channel A will have the phaser until you switch BANKS. When you return to the modded Bank Channel A will revert to the SAVED effect (delay). If you want to change the effect back without changing Banks, just program a switch to do that*. *EDIT - Loading an effect with MIDI loads it with factory settings. If you switch back to the SAVED effect (which might contain your own customizations) using MIDI without switching Banks, the effect will load with the factory settings. I don't know of any way to replace the factory settings with user settings which, in any case, would still be global. I'm currently waiting to hear back from L6 Support as to whether the factory settings can be altered.

Also, very dependent on the type of music you play. My Cat 100 sounds fine with Helix for blues and classic rock. For metal, not so much. The open-back cab just doesn't get the bottom end out. Neither did the PC112+, so I traded it for a PC212+. Much better, but if I was really a METAL head, IDK if even that would be enough. I second the rental idea. If there's any rehearsal studios in your area, you might ask what cabs they have on hand. Then rent a couple of hours and play LOUD. You'll never find the right cab if you're afraid of the neighbors!

"The new XYZ modeler NAILS the Vox sound!" "The new XYZ modeler sounds great, but its Vox SUCKS!" That's the gist of every discussion I've ever seen regarding Vox tones. You would think that the only way you can get authentic Vox tones is with an actual Vox amp. In a blind shoot-out (live playing through actual amps in the room) done on one of the P&W YT Channels, they compared Helix, Kemper, Spider and one of the Hosts' hand wired AC30 amps that he'd had for years. They identified the Helix as his AC30. They thought the real AC30 was the Spider. ROFLMAO! The moral of the story is, buy it and try it! You're the only one who can decide.

IIRC, the Returns are unbalanced, so TRS is pointless. The devices referenced above are the way to go if you're concerned about noise.

Have you tried opening a support ticket? Remember to include the error code. If it's a known issue, you may be able to get it serviced under warranty despite its being out of the official warranty period. However, if this has been happening since it was new, you should have contacted support long ago, while it was still under warranty.

This is probably way off base, but that happened to me once. Drove me crazy until I figured out that the Power plug wasn't inserted all the way... DOH!

Split the paths A/B panned 100% Path B. Put all of your guitar stuff in Path B. Take the Send to your desk. Your USB Audio will be on the main Outs, guitar on the Send. You can set the HP jack to monitor the Send, Volume knob to whatever works for you. What I do is to take both the laptop's HP Out and the HXS Main outs to a small mixer connected to my monitors.

Not for nothing, but by eschewing the Helix Control, you've created a HUGE hassle for yourself. While MIDI can control most every aspect of your Helix, you must tell your MIDI controller every little thing you want it to do. For instance, when you load a preset in Helix, Control automatically displays the Bypass status of all the assigned switches. They're lit up and ready to send the appropriate ON/OFF message. Nothing you need to do. To get the same behavior from a MIDI controller you need to program it to send the desired CC message when the CONTROLLER'S preset loads - FS1/Distortion = CC#49 Value 127 (ON); FS2/Delay = CC#50 Value 0 (OFF) etc. Then, if you change your mind and want the delay ON you have to reprogram the MIDI Controller's Preset accordingly, vs just pressing the Helix Control's FS and hitting SAVE. Oh, yeah, did I mention the handy LED rings on the switches? What DOES GCP FS 5 do in THIS preset? That was a simple example. It can get really crazy depending upon the complexity of your configuration. Need more than 10 stomp buttons? Add a cheap, compact MIDI Controller such as Ampero Control which has 4 switches per bank which can each be programmed to perform multiple actions using press, hold, double press etc. Same problems as above, but if the reason you need more switches is because you want Snapshots available in Stomp mode it's perfect, as having the LED rings is less important. Anyway, just sayin', things to think about...

From the manual: Assigning Program Changes - Pg 16-17 Assigning Continuous Controller - Pg 11

I don't have the GCP, but MIDI is MIDI. I had a quick look at the manual and it looks pretty straight forward. What seems to be the problem?

If you attach the preset (not a screenshot) we can check to see where the error lies.

Amazing how lifelike zombie threads can appear!

I highly doubt it. It is what it is, a low budget production, and not likely to draw a lot of engineering resources to updates. My Powercab 212+ was $1500 and has had exactly one update in, like, 4 years since release? If it's important to you, for $100 you can get an Ampero Control (MIDI). I believe that this is why they included all the MIDI features, for those for whom the base amp was just not enough.

Yes. Just use all mono fx. If you run any in parallel just keep the pan in the mixer blocks centered.

The danger in changing speaker ratings is usually in the other direction - swapping an 8 ohm speaker for a 4 ohm speaker. I'm not an electrical engineer and I did not design the Catalyst amp. Only Line6 can answer your question with total assuredness. Other things to consider - what is the "sensitivity" of the speakers involved? A 3% difference in a speaker's sensitivity rating could decrease or increase the apparent volume. I've never seen the specs on the Cat's speaker, and I highly doubt that L6 would be willing to release those specs for their special design Cat speaker. Here's a couple of articles to help you understand these principles: Speaker Impedance Changes Amplifier Power - Geoff the Grey Geek Understanding Speaker Sensitivity - Geoff the Grey Geek How does the attenuator factor into the equation? The Cat has a feature whereby as the power output is decreased, EQ is applied to compensate for the Fletcher-Munson effect. How would that be affected? The design team tested many types of speakers to find the best sound across all of the 6 amp types in the Cat and designed the speaker with the results of those tests in mind. This info, BTW, comes from the head of the design team (@Rikman) and he explained the process in one of the Cat threads over on TGP. So, if you replace the speaker with something that sounds GREAT with the Hi-Gain amp, it might sound awful with the Clean amp and/or detract from the "Voxy-ness" of the Chime amp. Bottom line - how much of an improvement would you realize to the tone of your favorite Cat amp? 5%? 0%? At what cost to the tone of the others? What else might be compromised? Since NOBODY from L6 monitors this forum regularly, you might TRY for an answer to these questions by asking on the D&M forum over at TGP. The head of the Cat's design team goes by @Rikman (had to search for that!). And here's a thread re:Catalyst speaker changes: (5) Line 6 Catalyst Speaker... | The Gear Page

Normally, taking 1/4" TS to 1/4" TRS works fine. I run my HXS into a board which has Inputs clearly labelled "Balanced or Unbalanced" using TS cables. Works fine. Supposedly, the HXS units are immune to the Phantom Power thing, but I've never tried it. If it's a concern you can get an inline phantom power blocker or use a DI.

Depends what type of inputs you have available. If the ID44 has balanced 1/4" inputs you can use balanced 1/4" cables or 1/4" to XLR, but with just a 5ft run simple TS (guitar type) shielded cables are fine.

Unless you have a MAC and can use an aggregate ASIO driver (HXSXL for input, ID44 for output), setting the DAW's ASIO to the HXSXL means that the HXSXL is both Input and output and the speaker/amp would need to be connected to the HXSXL, which means you can Direct Monitor and not have the DAW in the middle. In this configuration the DAW would only be used for recording/playback. You're basically replacing the ID44 completely which is OK unless you're mixing other sources in the ID44, which would be the main purpose of having an AI with that much I/O. This is NOT a good plan except possibly for a more portable recording rig where the ID44's superior I/O would not be required. You're already using the best method.

Yes. All you need is an Audio Interface. Focusrite Scarlett Solo or IK Multimedia AXE I/O One are good, affordable options.

Not that I'm aware of.

In Stomp mode, press View to display the parameters for the currently selected effect. If TOUCH or BOTH settings this should switch to that effect's parameters.

It's called L6 Link because it works with L6 devices. There's no advantage to using the digital cable with multiple PCs unless you're using a Helix and two digital cables. With the QC just use XLRs as I described above.