Schmalle

Hmm... good question. First, it's an all transistor amp - no tubes. It has simple solid state power amp which provides a linear power amp sound compared to the scooped say an AC30. I'd try the Cali Texas Ch2. It's a model of an all tube amp but with a very controlled (solid state-ish) power amp. It certainly can get you a voxish jangly strumming sound but also can deliver a good mid honk if you want that. Use lower Drive 2 settings for brighter sounds (treble boost-ish). The Shape parameter affects how low Treble works and therefore how full the mids are. Try the preamp version, too, it might even get you closer than the full amp model. Have fun!

Let me backpaddle a little from my statement "You can't power stuff over Helix's MIDI Out": A standard MIDI Out was never intended to power devices, but it is build to power an optocoupler. The max constant current you can get from a standard MIDI OUT socket (like all Helix devices) is 5 V / (2 * 220 Ohm) =~ 10 mA. This means 50 mW of power at best. However that is enough to power devices that need very little power like the CME WIDI Master.

You can't power stuff over Helix's MIDI Out. EDIT: I backpaddle a little from this absolute statement:

Here is what I think is happening: You described that you send a guitar signal to the Cyper Twin input with a Helix send. What this does is triggering the Cyber Twins input to open it's noise gate. That noise gate seems to be a special one that uses the input signal to cut noise after the Cyber Twin's fx loop. That would explain why you only hear the signal going in the Cyber Twin's return when you play. If I'm seeing this correctly you need to disable the Cyber Twin's noise gate. Then you don't need the cable from Helix send to Cyber Twin input anymore nor the fx loop block for it in the patch.

Empty file, no picture.

Unclear wiring description, this is what I understand: guitar->helix in helix send->amp input helix out->amp return (i dont use send from amp) But what is does this mean?: "send helix-output looper-return helix-inst.inn looper"

Do you mean the volume of the looped parts get muted when you don't play the guitar? Can you please give your signal flow / order of connection that you do? guitar -> ...? What amp do you use? Use translate.google.com if you struggle with English.

You can put the Loop Station after the Helix: guitar -> Helix -> Loop Station -> amp / monitors But if you use the Loop Station in the Helix fx loop (send and return) you need to activate it for every patch by inserting an FX Loop block.

The HX gate does work great, but it doesn't have a key input like the Zuul. That makes the Zuul the better solution because you can put it after the preamp of your amp while triggering it with your clean guitar signal.

FX with input non 1 MOhm impedance: * Distortion * Bighorn 136k Deranged Master 90k Triangle Fuzz 22k Arbitrator Fuzz 10k Tychoctavia Fuzz 230k Octave Fuzz 230k Industrial Fuzz 10k Hedgehog 230k Scream 808 230k * Wah * Teardrop 90k UK Wah 846 136k * Delay * Elephant Man 90k Cosmos 10k * Modulation * 70's Chorus 22k Courtesan 136k This only matters if you use one of these as the first block in the path. The solution from my previous post (but not the alternative one) lets you use the Hx input with it's impedance switching btw.

I'd solve it like this: guitar -> Hx input Hx send L -> amp input Hx send R -> Zuul key in amp send -> Zuul in Zuul out -> Hx return Hx out -> amp return Use a TRS -> 2x TS split cable for the Hx send to amp input and Zuul key input. In the patch use an additional Send R block first in the signal path to send the clean key signal. Alternative solution: guitar -> Zuul key in Zuul key out -> Hx input Hx send -> amp input amp send -> Zuul in Zuul out -> Hx return Hx out -> amp return

I don't really have long term experience with my contact spray yet either. I used an old spray can of DÜWI Kontaktspray, a german product that isn't available anymore. The controls were fine for maybe two or three months. Only one of the three encoders had the issue again so I applied a drop to that one again, seems to be ok again.

Yes, on my Stomp it is a hardware issue: the contacts of the rotary encoders needed to be cleaned with a tiny bit of contact spray. I did this without opening the unit - I just removed the knobs, let a drop of contact spray run down the encoder shaft and then turned it for some seconds. Worked great. Sadly the issue came back as of late so that I'm thinking of replacing the encoders instead of cleaning them every few weeks.

If you hear an 'amp in the room' you hear the amp and it's reflections from the room. You can do that from many listening angles and distances. Do you want a sound as if you were in front of a stack of 4x12s in a stadium or more of a combo amp pointing at you legs in a crowded pub? Do you have a recording at hand that features the sound of what you call 'moving air'?

Here is an interesting article for you: https://blog.line6.com/2023/09/15/eric-klein-at-least-half-of-your-modelers-sound-is-determined-by-your-playback-system/ Personally I use the HX Stomp in the return of a combo amp for rehearsals. Amp models with cab sim off. Results vary from ok to great depending on the amp model. At home it's studio monitors or headphones - results are usually great.

I'd do it like you suggested: an fx loop block before the split. I'd set the fx block's Mix to 50% and use the JamMan's Dry Defeat feature (press and hold the Dry Defeat button to defeat dry signal through the JamMan). This way you don't add noise or latency to your direct guitar signal. As a rule of thumb: added noise from the fx loop is mainly a problem when it is added in front of amp / distortion models which amplify the noise. So in your case not so much. Have fun!

I see no problem using the CD input. That Marshall has an FX LOOP MIX knob on the front panel that you need to set all the way to WET in order to use the fx return as power amp input. I wouldn't be shocked if both the return and the CD input sound the same, try it! Have fun!

Switching the Mode doesn't switch or reset anything in your patch. You can recall the original snapshot setting by pressing a snapshot foot switch with said option (Global Settings -> Preferences -> Snapshot Edits = Discard). You can program foot switches to change snapshots in Stomp Mode using Command Center. That could be your single action reset solution.

Set Global Settings -> Preferences -> Snapshot Edits to Discard.

Connect your Helix MIDI Out via MIDI cable with HXFX MIDI IN. Program Helix to send MIDI PC (Program Change) messages: If you set Global Settings -> MIDI -> MIDI PC Send to MIDI then Helix sends a MIDI PC message with the new preset number each time you change presets. Alternatively you can use an Instant Command in Command Center to program a Helix preset to send specific PC message with any preset number.

Pressing the OD switch on your amp should fix the issue. The amp also has an External Switching Mode to prevent this kind of issue. Press and hold the Clean Voice and OD select switches on the amp for 5 seconds to enter it. See page 13 "External switching mode" of the Blackstar's manual:

The easiest way to get there is this: Euclidean Delay with Step Time 1/8th (or 250ms for fixed 120 bpm), Steps 2, Fill 1, Rotate 1. Feedback to taste.

Try the Deluxe Phaser with the following suttle settings and then turn knobs and explore: Rate 1.3 Hz, Depth 0.2, Offset 0, Feedback 0%, Wave Sine, Mix 50%, Stages 4.

Study the cheat sheet, it contains condensed "need to know" information: https://line6.com/support/manuals/helixlt This article is a must read IMHO, understanding this will probably save you a lot of pain: https://blog.line6.com/2023/09/15/eric-klein-at-least-half-of-your-modelers-sound-is-determined-by-your-playback-system/ There are many blog entries that are interesting: https://blog.line6.com/ Lot's of stuff to find on Line 6's YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/@line6movies Have fun!

You have a two year warranty so you can ask Amazon for a replacement unit.