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Schmalle

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Everything posted by Schmalle

  1. Do you record via USB? If so check: Global Settings -> Ins/outs -> USB In1/2 Trim - default is 0.0 dB
  2. That's not normal. Get it replaced within warranty.
  3. I got close with combination of EH Deluxe Electric Mistress and Boss CE-1 aka Courtesan Flange and 70s Chorus. Try to match the rhythm tone first - then engage the Flanger and tackle the intro. The Retro Reel can give you the 70s honk if needed. Have fun!
  4. Schmalle

    USB problem

    Is it Is it just the USB that isn't working?
  5. Schmalle

    USB problem

    AFAICS that board should work then. I don't think that I can be of further help here.
  6. Schmalle

    USB problem

    On the Stomp it's USB+ aka VBUS (USB socket) -> L6 -> R58 -> socket to processor board. I can measure 220Ohm (R38) from the processor board to USB+ (USB socket). On your image it looks like the the equivalent is USB+ -> L22 -> R349 -> 5pin connector. You should be able to measure 220Ohm from red (or USB_VCC) to the left pin on the 5pin connector.
  7. First of all: Hi, welcome and thank you for putting some thought into structuring your post. You could approach your plan differently by tackling another potential obstacle first - plug into the input of the amp and try replacing the OCD (Compulsive Drive) and Super OD (Stupor Drive). Does that work for you?
  8. Schmalle

    USB problem

    Stating the obvious here if you're somewhat knowledgeable in electronics : Looks like the pin of the connector are +, data, data, -, shield from left to right. Test the right four pins of the connector for continuity to the jack's contacts. The left pin to C38 should measure 220Ohm and the other side of C38 should pass for continuity to the last jack' contact.
  9. Schmalle

    USB problem

    This is the HX Stomp's USB input circuit. Test L6,L31 for continuity, C43,C47 for non-continuity and R58 for 221Ohm. C40 had both sides on the same (ground) potential when I measured it - works regardless. Helix should have some similar circuit on it. Needless to mention to also check the four pins in the middle for continuity to the jack's contacts.
  10. That's normal with pedals that assume instrument level. Lower the amp block's Ch Vol until it's as loud as bypassed. Now the FX Loop shouldn't clip with default settings. If you need more make up gain the Output block has plenty. Also setting Global Settings->Output Level to Line helps getting a little more output.
  11. Schmalle

    USB problem

    If it was indeed over-voltage check for defective TVS diodes (shorting). Edit: no TVS diodes - just regular ones. See post below.
  12. I think there is a conceptual problem with your intended approach: the bypass state of all modulation and delay blocks are saved in every snapshot. You wouldn't be able to cycle through modulations and delays independently. If that is no problem you could cycle through ALL snapshots with one footswitch. And may be use a second one to go backwards (or reset to snapshot 1).
  13. You've done the factory reset without success - you should open a support ticket.
  14. A bit oversimplified statements to illustrate the essence of equal loudness contour aka Fletcher-Munson curves: If you create a balanced sound at low volume it will sound scooped at higher volume - it gets lost although it's loud. If you create a lean and mellow sound at low volume it will sound balanced at higher volume - it comes alive.
  15. What Marshall power amp? What PA speakers? Do they have tweeters? Does regular music (a full mix) played through it sound great?
  16. You don't. You use Exp1 exclusively. Keep in mind that you only switch between wah and volume when volume is full (toe down).
  17. My mistake. I thought you used a HX Stomp for some reason. Everything except the volume knob stuff still applies to the HXFX.
  18. If you set Global Settings -> Ins/Outs -> Input Level and Output Level to Inst and crank the main Volume knob you get unity gain. This means that you get the same level on both outputs that you feed into the input. Or in other words: both amps should sound like you've plugged into them directly with your guitar (unless one or both amps have a non 1MOhm input impedance). I don't see technical benefits in using the Sends instead in your use case. Phase issues can be of two origins: a flipped phase or a delay on one channel. If you use additional digital pedals these usually add delay due to AD/DA conversion. As for the flipped phase (i.e. due to both speaker pushing their speaker(s) in opposite directions) you can put a Stereo Width block last in the chain and set RPolarity to Invert to test this by ear. Ground loops shouldn't be an issue if you power both amps from the same power outlet. It could become an issue when you connect a third device (i.e. a PC via USB).
  19. Yes, the fine tune bar is -3cent...+3cent. The >< indicators turn on/off at +-2cent and the footswitch LED changes from yellow to green at +-3cent.
  20. You're right, it's 10cent/division. If you calculate the distance between 440Hz and 445Hz you get about 20cent. If you tune a note with Reference at 440Hz and then set to 445Hz it's two divisions off. Science, baby.
  21. For single note stuff an auto swell effect is always a struggle. You need to have a balanced guitar where all the notes are the same level. If the higher notes are lower in level they trigger the swell later. This means need to be pick with different intensity depending where you are on the fretboard. And you need to accurately play one note at a time and have a good dampening technique between the notes - otherwise you accidentally don't trigger the swell. Instead of the Adriatic Swell you can use the Autoswell into the Adriatic Delay which gives you more options to adjust the swell. But honestly I'd use a volume pedal for swelling into single notes - it's way easier - at least for me. Hope that helps.
  22. Schmalle

    Feedback issues

    I'd A/B the" trusted high gain pedal" vs the HX pedals and maybe preamps.
  23. Schmalle

    Feedback issues

    That answer is highly ambiguous. Can you answer my question again? Is it "No, I don't hear hum/buzz when the guitar volume knob is closed." Or is it "Yes, I do hear hum/buzz when the guitar volume knob is closed." Is it "Yes, hum/buzz is what I describe as feedback." Or is it "No, hum/buzz isn't the issue here."
  24. The PAD is before the AD conversion. It cuts about half of the signal (about 6dB) so that the user can use high output guitars without clipping the input. If you want to dampen the input signal further (after the AD conversion) you can insert a gain block in the first position of the chain. And yes, I also would really appreciate an input level control in the input block.
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