Schmalle

Sounds like you assigned the exp pedal to a parameter on a block. Have you tested multiple presets or created a new one from scratch to make sure it isn't that?

This is a user forum. Open a support ticket and ask customer support.

Why not use the stereo cab block with the two cabs panned hard left and right?

Yes.

Or use USB 5 [ HX Stomp’s dry Main L/MONO] as input and USB 1/2 [HX Stomp’s Main Outs] as output of the NAM plugin with an empty HX patch where you turn down the Level of the Output block completely.

Check Global Settings > EXP Pedals. It determines whether each expression pedal position is recalled per snapshot, per preset, or applied globally. If you want a Volume Pedal or Wah to maintain its position when switching presets, set this to “Global.”

You could have achieved the same result by setting Split A/B to A 100. Then bypassing it does the even split. There is other stuff that the split block can do like the Frequency Split where a bypass is needed to disengage it.

I don't think that you can buy that plug on it's own. But ask the customer support!

In Command Center you can use the HX Snapshot command on a footswitch and set it's Press parameter to a specific snapshot (instead of Next). Mind that commands are per snapshot which means you have to edit the command for every snapshot.

Contact customer support and describe your unfortunate situation to them.

What's stopping you from injecting the looper after Helix and before the amp's return?

Set up your expression pedal. -> https://manuals.morningstar.io/mc-midi-controller/setting-up-your-expression-pedal Set up a CC Message. -> https://manuals.morningstar.io/mc-midi-controller/Message-Type-List.181698784.html#MessageTypeList-ControlChange Use CC#1 to emulate HX's EXP 1. Use MIDI channel 1 which is HX's default channel (unless you have multiple MIDI devices to control). Make sure that the channel you choose is set in HX's Global Settings. On HX FX: Controller assign a parameter that you want to control with EXP 1. If that doesn't work double check the cabling. You can connect HX FX via USB to a PC and use MIDIView to check whether HX is receiving a CC#1 message.

The NS2 is nice as it offers an improvement over the HX's noise gate: you have a side chain input for an independent trigger signal. To benefit from that use the 4CM (see manual) and inject the NS2 in two places: between the guitar and the HX input to get the trigger signal (pure guitar) between the amps Send and the HX Return to gate the signal coming from the amp's preamp You end up in these cable connections: guitar -> NS2 In NS2 Send -> HX In HX Send -> amp In amp Send -> NS2 Return NS2 Out -> HX Return HX Out -> amp Return Have fun!

Yes. Use the NoteOn command set to MIDI channel 10 (that's the only channel that the AKAI recognizes) in CommandCenter.

Not sure if this is already solved but you select Stomp Mode via MIDI by sending CC#71 = 0. So the MIDI controller sending CC#69 = snapshot number-1 CC#71 = 0 CC#49-54 = 0 might be the solution.

Investigate that stuff with a tool like MIDIView. FInd out what Helix1 (and maybe Helix2 via a second USB connection) actually receives and sends via MIDI.

No.

It used to be six blocks but for some years it's eight blocks. Never was seven. You can record a patch's input (aka dry) signal, output signal and send (fx loops) signal (each stereo) at the same time via USB.

It's a ground loop issue. What you're hearing is the (alternating) voltage between the computer's USB ground and the QSC's ground. Connect the computer's USB ground to mains ground. Alternatively a line isolator like the Behringer HD 400 / Pyle PHD 300 or something like that between HX and QSC does the job. A TRS cable with cut sleeve / ground lift should also work.

Have you managed to do the 4CM with one of your amps? If so connect the Out R with your other amp's Return - that's all to get the 5CM. For the 7CM replace the FX Loop block with the stereo FX Loop block, connect as seen on page 10 of the 3.8 manual and you should be good.

The Out L likely has a loose ground connection and it needs some soldering. When you have Helix plugged in (L Out -> Katana Power Amp In) you can get rid of the buzz by also connecing R Out (or any other In/Out) -> Katana FX Loop Return. This provides the missig ground connection.

Here are some electrical phenomena that change the tone of an amp + cab pair: If you switch from open back to closed back there is a pretty noticable shift in the bass resonance and depth. A closed cabinet dampens the speaker movement which makes it behave different electrically (the impedance curve changes). The difference between a 4 Ohm and 16 Ohm wiring in the same 4x12 cab is also pretty noticable. Same with parallel vs serial wiring in a 2x12 cab. Then there are resonances in the lower mids in some cabs' impedance curves that change the feel (that aren't in the IR). Also the dimensions of the voice coil (the inductance) affects where the in the mids the impedance starts to rise. Lastly(?) there are magnetic saturation effects happening in a speaker's magnet when pushed (really) hard. How much this affects the tone depends on the amp. Different tube amps have different levels of negative feedback which is the amp's circuit section that mitigates the impedance curve's effect on the tone. Since Depth (Resonance) and Presence are feedback controls these can also sound different with different cabs. In summary changing a cab changes an amp's electrical behavior because the cab is part of the electrical circuit. There is a lot going on in a tube power amp - cab system. How and how much changing a cab changes the tone - well - depends.

I suspect the cause is a dual-ground problem: The device connected to the USB port has a different potential than the one connected to the output. The signal at the output shifts the ground difference slightly, causing the HX Stomp ground to follow the output signal. Since the input is also connected to this ground, it senses the output signal. Thus, the output signal bleeds through the ground to the input signal. If I'm right, the strength of the bleeding signal can be adjusted with the VOLUME control as well as the instrument's volume knob. Connecting the Outs or USB to a properly grounded device should also fix this.

You need an adapter that acts as USB-C Host (not device). See @rd2rk 's post above.