Schmalle

I've repaired several LCD screens with similar issues (doing weird stuff while powering on) over the years by replacing some electrolyte capacitors in their power supplies. It's the most common failure.

Reads like a ground loop issue. Does it stop humming/squealing when you use the 4CM and then remove the cable form HX Send to Amp Input? If so using a hum destroyer like the Behringer HD400 to isolate the amp's fx loop should solve the issue. Asking Mesa or search their forums might help. Set the loop to serial (mix 0%) for normal 4CM. If you want to use the amp's loop in parallel only use time based fx (delay, reverb) after the FX Loop block with mix set to 100%. Otherwise you'll get phase issues due to the latency of the HX - your direct signal will sound weird.

Unfortunately I don't have a recommendation, I'm not from the UK and I use the original power supply. The problem is that you can't see from the outside how much a power supply manufacturer cheaps out on the electrolyte capacitors. Cheap ones tend to wear out faster. Your new power supply works fine but after a year or so strange things start to occur. In your case worn out capacitors *MIGHT* be the reason your HX reboots, because a short and fast current is needed to switch on the relays after the boot phase. A defective power supply is hardly able to provide that current and has no (charge) reserves left to power the HX for a short moment so it shuts off.

Global Settings -> Footswitches -> FS3 Function = Stomp 3.

I'd try a different power supply if possible. You can also open a support ticket to check what they suggest.

The click in absolutely normal and comes from the 'analog bypass' aka 'true bypass' relays which mechanically switch the HX into the signal path. So your HX boots several times until it stays on - do you use the original power supply? If not how do you power it?

Fair enough. Not everyone shares your opinions though and an absolute statement like "...momentary switching does not exist in snapshots" might be misleading for someone who sees an external foot switch or the EXP switch as a welcome option.

Time for a more nerdy delay to shine: Euclidean Delay! Try these variants: Steps 2, Fill 1, Rotate 1 Steps 4, Fill 2, Rotate 2 Steps 6, Fill 3, Rotate 3 Or two delays in series in a parallel path where the first is an 8th note delay with no feedback and 100% mix. The second is a 4th note delay with feedback.

Maybe the VOLUME knob pot is broken or the VOLUME reading circuit has a loose contact. Disable the VOLUME knob in Global Settings -> Volume Knob Controls and to check if that stops the issue.

Ok, seems likely that the input jack has a loose contact. At least you have a workaround with the Return until you fix it. You don't need an extra buffer. Just make sure to set the relevant Send/Return to INST (not LINE) in the Global Settings -> Ins/Outs . That makes it a normal instrument input with 1 MOhm impedance. And yes, using a Return as input bypasses the Auto-Z feature but for the most part Auto internally sets the impedance to 1 MOhm anyways.

Sounds like something is wrong in the input hardware. Does the problem appear if you choose one of the returns as input source in the input block?

You get seven amp models and seven cabinet models. You can combine these however you like, e.g. the Princeton Clean with the Matchless cabinet.

Awesome, thank you!

What about external foot switches and the volume pedal switch?

You won't find a solution because you can only split the signal once in a patch in HX Stomp.

Everybody likes different stuff and has different needs so there is no objective answer. However... the JCM 800 Brit 2203 has received lots of high praise. The sound of rock that is on soo many 80s and 90s records. If you check it out beware of the bright cap on the gain pot (Drive parameter) - lower settings make the amp thin and harsh. The Line 6 Oblivion amp model is awesome for mid to high gain stuff - it starts where the 2203 ends gainwise. Not far from those modern EVH high gain amps. There is a new F7nder silverface Bassman model (US Dripman Nrm in the bass amps category) that is really nice from clean to crunch. Like the 2203: bright cap on Drive warning (if "Bright" is on). And the Line 6 Clarity is a super clean amp model that works well with pedals - such as the new Nobels OD-1 model (Pricedrive). The new cabs are cool, try the Fullerton models (Tweed Deluxe) with it's new 1x12 counterpart - rock'n roll!

I think the power amp is not connected to earth and by this is able to shift ground with power. Check the rehearsal room's power sockets for a proper earth connection and all power cables for proper ground connection.

Fun stuff. I doubt that the Helix changes level on the XLR because I also don't see a plausible explanation. But I love to learn and be proven wrong. To investigate this further: Does it also happen when you crank the Power Stage without a connected speaker (it's class D so you can safely do that)? This test excludes the mixer and your perception from the list of possible causes: Put a patch with just a Synth -> 3 Note Generator block in it and record the XLR Out with an external interface while increasing volume on the Power Stage. Is the level decreasing in the recording?

"They" is Yamaha and it's not a product, it's an early idea of an interface to connect devices for audio and control data transmission, something like "L6 Link".

It's not! There will never be a product named "Nexus".

s00n

The Scale parameter works the same across the models. Their Feedback is different: some feed back their output signal, others the input signal.

No. The Deluxe version wasn't even released when the Placater was added to the Helix. It's a normal BE 100 from 2016 or 2017. The clean channel can sound a lot like in the video though. It can rock like a Plexi with Drive cranked and high Master.

Why that suggestion? I don't know. If it was delay into reverb in a parallel path that might sound a little different because in that case there is more reverb on the delayed signal leading to a different decay behaviour. Just a guess.

I would go with a power bank that supports USB-C PD (power delivery) and a PD 9V adapter like this guy.