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Everything posted by BowerR64

  1. I just recently traded for an older pod pro rack unit so i dug out all my older line 6 stuff. A few months ago i bought a few older line 6 amps the Flextone II and the HD147 i wanted a paper manual for it so i went on e-bay and searched around and found some one selling an older pilot book for a pod/pod pro it had the install disk inside the front cover which has some PDF stuff and the best part the Sounddiver utility to hook these older midi style units to a computer. Ive had a AX2 212 for about 3-4 years and its one of my favorites i bought a set of the midi to USB cables made by "X Midi1X1" E-MU in my opinion this is the best USB to midi cable set you can get it has the drive built into the little USB plug and installs the drives each time you plug it in making it very easy to use. Ive used it with windows 7 and 8 so far with no issues. Now for the older software, on the disk is the factory line 6 "sound diver" Computer editing tool this makes changing the settings on the older pod/pod pro/Flextone series/HD147/ the SYS and AX2 series amps WAY easier. You simply click and drag to change the settings. No more blind editing holding tap or what ever else. Now before you say "this wont work" there is a way you can get older programs to work with newer versions of windows, you RIGHT click the file, properties and select COMPATIBILITY mode and you can then select to run the file for older versions of windows like XP, ME, 98 etc. Windows then knows how to correctly run the program works great! If anyone needs the program its not that big and has no time limit like the patchwizard. The patch wizard looks better and its easier to use but once you get the hang of the sound diver its WAY easier then trying to edit these older units from the front panel. I also find it handy to edit from a distance, wen your say a few feet back from the amp you can better hear the changes rather then being right up on it each time Good luck! oh and by the way the older pod pro rack unit rocks! SoundDiver Line6 Setup.exe
  2. What ive found is open back sounds full at lower volumes along with a more wide sound not so directional. At band volumes most guitar speakers cant handle the levels and poop out quickly breaking up and sound muddy or a farty sound IMO this sound sucks. With a closed back the speaker stay tight at band volumes the speakers dont move as easy and as quickly they cant pull in air quick enough so the bass stays tight IMO you would almost want a cabinet that you can open or close depending on how loud your playing, i love an open back when i practice at home but playing loud i dont enjoy this setup.
  3. Isnt there a switch called live and studio? I think that cuts off the power amp to drive the speakers?
  4. Crazy i just came here and read this and the Legand EMI GB128 is what i put in mine! i didnt even know the stock ones were that good. Celestion just came out with a modeling amp speaker i think its one of their flatest responce speakers
  5. I found a copy, PM me when you get this and ill send it to you. Its really small only 2 megs but it also does the pod, pod 2.0 AXsys, Pod pro, Flextone 2 and the bass pods It does require the USB to midi cable im using the E-MU Xmidi1X1 cable i got off e-bay
  6. Thanks to Andy Z of the L.A. Line 6 users group i found on wayback machine or somewhere digging and digging i contacted him threw facebook and he was able to send me the editor created back in earl 2000s by Brian Howarth. PatchWizard 1.49 by Brian Howarth
  7. When i searched for the Pider IV 30 manual there is only a "Pilots guide" which just gives the controls and functions. The advanced manual goes into depth on functions and amp models and such but the IV 30 doesnt seem to have this part of the manual posted any more. When i go to the line 6 Spider IV on the details page on the line 6 amps site and compare the details the IV 30 has all the same stuff as the Spider 3 75 it just doesnt have the display as that one. So you can use the manual for the spider 3 75/150 you just cant access all of the display stuff without using a floor board. All of the "amp models" are the same as well. clean green/red, twang green/red etc Incase anyone gets a spider IV 30 in the future and cant find any info on it search for the spider 3 75/150 manual and go by that.
  8. Its ok, some one else might get some use of this thread. This whole forum is old and full of old threads.
  9. Yeah i know but all Marshall amps have parallel outputs so if he connects both cables the amp will see a 4 ohm total load and what ive seen all the DSL lines have only 8 or 16 ohm loads. So by running 2 cables from the amp to the cabinet he might as well just be running one to the 4 ohm mono. fallow me? If he rewires the speakers inside and each side is 16 ohms per side the mono will be 8 the amp will be happy. its a simple rewire job imo and it wont risk blowing anything wether its SS or tube.
  10. Was there ever a tone exchange for this amp? Ive tried to dig up past tones but cant seem to dig anything up just wanted to try some other user tones on the unit i have. Gret sounding amp every time i dig it out and start playing threw it i alway find a sound i like.. I have a set of Eminence Patriot Screamin eagle 8ohm speakers in it running in series 16ohm total plugged into the left channel. The right channel i have hooked to a 4X12 1960B cabinet 16 ohms sounds really good!
  11. Thanks man, its been a while since i mesed with this amp and i dug it out again after about 6 months and started playing with it again. ill try this setting
  12. Which DSL is it? does it say JCM2000 dual super lead or does it actually say DSL100H on it? there is 2 different versions of that amp and older on and a newer one I wouldnt hook that amp to that cabinet without rewiring it first. If you use 2 cables and hook one cable to each jack from the amp to each jack on the cabinet your going to be running a 4 ohm load i dont think that amp can run at 4 ohms its designed to run at 8 ohms or 16 Ide rewire each pair of speakers in series so one jack is 16, and the other is 16 and mono is 8 instead of all of them running in paralell, its not hard to do and it will be better for your amp.
  13. This might sound like the wrong thing but if you try it for a while you may prefer it ive been playing for some 25 years and i do this now after hearing a tip from Joe Bonamassa. Turn your guitar volume down to 7, turn guitar volume to 10 then back it down to 7 My spider IV sounds the best with almost little to no drive/gain with the boost on. The boost is on default on the metal and insane channels and you do have to turn them off but ill bet your guitar pickups are just to hot with these channels. There is almost nothing you can do with the insane channel for me i never use it, but crunch and metal with the drive down and boost on i can find some nice tones. Do you have the FBV expressMKII? if not try and find one it will open up more features on your amp, a whah, volume and you can hook it to the computer
  14. A B C and D are your amps Say your in a band and your first song is a ballad or something, Amp "A" would be your Roland clean amp using a clean amp model and a nice chorus you set up how you want the clean sound and you then push and hold the "A" button and that saves all your settings to your patch "A" (CHAN VOL at 8) Next your band plays an 80s cover song so now your patch "B" you chose the green crunch model, you add some tape echo and a touch of reverb with alot of midrange in the EQ setting now you save that to patch "B" (CHAN VOL 6) Now your band tunes down to a drop D tuning for a cookie monster vocal song you setup your sound using the red insane model with lots of gain, the bass and treble controls are at 10 and some reverb this becomes your patch "C" (CHAN VOL 6) finally your drop "D" song you have a killer guitar solo worked out and you want everyone to hear it, so what you do is you take all of the same settings of patch "C" but you turn the channel volume to 8 so during the song your playing at a nice balanced volume with the band but when your solo comes you change to patch "D" and your solo really stands out because its up a few click louder then patch "C" and after your solo you step back to patch "C" and finish on a happy note. The cool thing is with both of your amps you can get a foot switch and now you have banks of A-D patches. If you download the manual it tells you that stock the amp has 1 bank of 4 patches but with the Floor pedal your open to i believe 16 banks A-D so thats 16X4 more saved patches you get with the foot pedal. You also open the amp to a whah pedal and volume with the foot pedal. Pretty powerful upgrade I have the IV 30 and IMO it smokes the spider 2 I love to set up a patch say metal with low gain and then use the boost function which is like a tube screamer and it has to be the best amp sound ive got out of any of my line 6 amps. I have an older AX2- 212 and it works good on that amp also, say a default JCM800 patch has like 80 of 99 on the gain ill back it down to like 20 and put on an OD pedal with just a light gain on the boost pedal and i swear it sounds better then the patch did with the drive at 80. REALLY cool because this is how real tube amps sound to me
  15. The description on the guitar center site for the classic 15 says you can hook it to USB and using the spider edit software you can edit the patches and save patches and stuff for the 15. This makes it better then the Spider IV 15 because the IV 15 you cant connect it to a computer and do anything with it/ I realize it takes the pedal, you hook the amp to the pedal then the computer hooks threw the pedal to the Amp. The Amazon site says this can be done also and even shows the edit software. Has anyone tried this yet? Im curious what all you can edit threw the software? Can you split the modulation effects threw the software? Like flange only? chorus only? Oh i hope and pray that it will but today i am still just a bill... OH YEA!
  16. Look at the manual or download the manual on how to turn the boost on and off. I prefer the boost off on both of those channels
  17. IMO a stero or a P.A. anything that sounds good with an MP3 player will sound good with the XTlive. Heres why, it not only models amps but it also models cabinets any time you model a cabinet then run it threw a guitar cabinet it sounds horrible. It took line 6 a while to figure this out thats why their Aplifi amps have full range speakers. If it was just an amp modeler then running into a guitar cabinet would be fine but they add the cabinet modler and IMO thats where the tone goes bad. You can get some good tones out of it using regular guitar speakers with the cabinet modeler on as well but if you ask me they would sound much much better with a full range speaker like from an old lowrey organ. A speaker thats designed for a full range not just the middle frequencies most guitar speakers are designed for. This just my opinion ofcorse, ive had a couple pods and a couple XTlives and i always thought they sounded the best with headphones.
  18. I think its hit and miss on these amps, it seems about half of them have the issue and half dont. For instance i have 2, one works flawless the other has issues, i believe the one i have that works will continue for years. The bad one just will see the rubish bin if i cant find the "main board" that i believe is the issue with them all. The one i have that doesnt work had the issue when i got it and i put some extreme cooling on all the fets that power the main board these fets control the power to the main board i think they are actually called regulators i think the tollerence of the componets are the issue some are within tollerence and they are the ones that will work for years to come those that just didnt quite meet the tolerence caused problems with heat and they eventually just fried. One thing i found when i first got the bad one i have is it has a "FAULT" mode, if it detects there is a heat issue or voltage fault it goes into that lock down mode, but over time the caps drain and then the faul mode resets and it will boot up like a new amps till it finds the fault again. Ive taken the amp apart and unplugged all the connectors from the transformer to the power board, the large IDE looking plug and the smaller one that powers the main board and let it sit like this for a few days. Then when i remember i go back and plug everything back up and it powers up fine again as if it was new, but it quickly overheats and locks back up What i was hoping to do was to figure out a way to just use the amp, i know the main board is bad and i cant seem to find a replacement board for it so i thought maybe i could use the poweramp, Mine is the Stereo 120 that would be nice to be able to plug a pod into the front and just use the 60X60 power amp in it even if i couldnt use the modeling/smart effects part. Been hanging on to it hoping it would some day be useable
  19. I have a Spider III 120 stereo and it has the main board issue. I really really dont want to just throw this amp away, i know it still have some good sounds in it but i just cant find a replacement main board whichi know is the issue. I thoght i had it fixed with better cooling but it only worked for a few months then it failed again Are these boards no longer available? im not having any luck finding the main board for it. What im needing i cant seem to find Spider III MAIN A8-1: REV C 12.22.206 #35-00-0308 PLEASE HELP!
  20. This fix didnt last, it eventually failed again but i know this main board is the only problem with the amp.
  21. I have a AX212, a XTpro, Spider 3-120, Spider II 30, Spider IV-15, and a spider IV-30 IMO the AX2 and the IV series sound fantastic the amp models in the IV-30 are simply unbeatable for the price, and i didnt think ide find a sound ide like from the IV-15 but the clean channel sounds good and the metal channel backed off has one of the nicest crunch sounds i doubt ill ever get rid of those 2 amps. Im still working with the IV 75, but so far based on the tones i get from the 15 and 30 im sure ill be able to dig some nice sounds from the 75. If anything its a plus to see prices drop on the IV series, thats good news for us!
  22. i dont really need to do any of those things, i may try the CD\MP3 in just to see how it sounds but i like the amp modeling on the amps i have (sept the effects) I was just curious what it did and i was curious how it sounded with everything off, a raw sound? When you put the spider III-15 into this manual mode do the EQ settings work atleast? Im wondering the difference in sound between say this mode and the CD\MP3 input? other then then input jack type? im sure the impedance is different, i doubt it would sound good plugging a guitar into the CD\MP3 input the levels are different, might actually be a good pedal platform if you could get the amp cheap enough Thanks for your replys by the way
  23. i reread your post and noticed you had the spider 3 15, for some reason when i first read it i thought it was the IV 15 like i had I tried that on my IV 15 and nothing worked it just seem like it muted the volume
  24. What does holding the tap/tempo button in when powering on do again? Does it put the amp in manual mode or something?
  25. Well the 2 30 watt ones sound better speciall the IV 30, thats my favorite one so far. The IV-15 sounds better then using th estock 8" for sure, it sounds more full and just has a better over tone but it is what it is. The clean is usable and depending on the day if i like the crunch or the metal (backed down on the drive) i have the crunch and metal sounding very similar just the midrange sounds slightly different between the 2. My buddy had a Orange dark terror (7/15 watts) he had it hooked to a 4X12 and a 2X12 at the same time the whole time he had it. I know tube watts arnt the same as SS watts but the little 15 watt spider IV has no trouble with the 4X12 at all. You can get Cliff jacks on e-bay for super cheap that have spade lugs on them, all you have to do is unplug the speaker terminals from the speaker and plug it into the clif jack (no soldering requires) and your ready to hook a 1/4"-1/4" speaker wire from the amp to any cabinet. The cool thing is its all reversable, unhook the cliff jack plug the leads back to the stock speaker and your back to the stock combo amp. I just went a little further and made a box for mine so it looks like a little lunchbox head. More for aesthetics then anything and the fun of building a cheap little combo into a cool pro looking amp haha
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