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Found 18 results

  1. Watch the video - one of my output blocks flashes rapidly and then stabilizes toward the end of the video. However, the output signal cuts completely in and out, in time with the flashing icon. This does not stop. This is regardless of where the signal is coming from (instrument, USB). I have: Rebooted Unplugged all externals and rebooted Erases and restored to factory settings Reinstalled firmware Nothing. Anyone have any ideas? Helix_Vid.mov
  2. I bought an Ownhammer IR pack from the line 6 market. I have dowloaded th HIR files and imported them into helix edit 2.82 however I cannot drag them into a block! Its infuriating! If anyone could shed some light on this I would appreciate it! The IR's have a pick symbol next to them in the HX edit window, having done a bit of research it's just to show that they are a premium IR? thanks Ross
  3. Problem: While playing recently, my DT-25 suddenly dropped volume significantly and had a slight burning smell. I figured it was a tube(s) going out, so I bought some new ones and replaced them, but when I went to bias them, they were super low! Instead of the 25 (+/-3), they were around 7-8. I turned the bias, but then the weirdest thing happened - any turn up would start an unstoppable climb to 40-50, then it would suddenly kick down to 14 or less. It would stay that way until I turned the bias up again, and then the same thing every time. I checked the fuse, but it seems intact. Since power was going to the tubes, I figure it can't be that anyway. I may be wrong, but I suspected it may be kicking into Low-Volume mode as a safety feature. Any idea what's going on? How do I fix this?
  4. Version française. Deutsche Version. Please be aware that with the current AMPLIFi and Firehawk remote apps, connection problems can occur if the Bluetooth device is paired after the app has been opened. In this scenario, we suggest that you: fully quit the app (double click the home button and swipe the app off the dock) pair over Bluetooth launch the app CLICK HERE for a video tutorial on Bluetooth Pairing your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. To pair the AMPLIFi/Firehawk with your Bluetooth device: Enable Bluetooth on the device you would like to stream audio from. Put the AMPLIFi/Firehawk into 'Pairing Mode' by pressing and holding the Bluetooth button located on the upper left of the top panel. It will begin to flash quickly to indicate it is in 'Pairing Mode', and the Master Volume knob's LEDs will change from solid red to flashing white. Within the Bluetooth options of your mobile device, an entry for 'AMPLIFi/Firehawk' will appear. Select the 'AMPLIFi/Firehawk' entry and pair with it. The Bluetooth LED will stop flashing and become solidly lit blue. Your AMPLIFi/Firehawk is now ready stream audio from your device and work with the Remote app. If you are experiencing unexpected Bluetooth performance such as audio playback drop outs, intermittent connectivity between your AMPLIFi/Firehawk and its Remote app, decreased range, or difficulty finding, pairing, and connecting to your Bluetooth device, you most likely are encountering interference with your Bluetooth connection. Here are some common sources of Bluetooth interference: Physical barriers such as the structure/material of the environment or objects in the surrounding area that are within the line of sight between the two devices. Any wireless device that operate in the 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz frequency range. Wi-Fi devices, routers, hotspots, and accessories. Other Bluetooth devices or accessories. Direct Satellite Service system Extreme electrical sources such as power lines, electrical railroad tracks, and power stations. Try the following troubleshooting steps in the order they are listed to help minimize the amount of Bluetooth interference you are experiencing. Please refer to the Bluetooth pairing instructions above when following the troubleshooting steps below: Quit AMPLIFi remote by double clicking the home button and swiping the app up off the dock, then restart the app. Make sure you are in range of the Bluetooth accessory with which you are trying to pair with as most Bluetooth accessories have a range of around 30 feet. Move your iOS device closer to the Bluetooth accessory. Reposition your AMPLIFi/Firehawk so that it is in direct line of sight with the Bluetooth device you are pairing it with. Remove the case, stand, or accessories you are using with your Bluetooth device. Double check that your device is successfully paired with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Delete/'forget' your AMPLIFi/Firehawk device from the list of available Bluetooth devices. Press and hold the Bluetooth button on the upper left of the top panel for 2-3 seconds and let go; it should begin to blink quickly to indicate that your AMPLIFi/Firehawk is in 'Pairing mode'. Try again to pair your Bluetooth device with the AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Disable Bluetooth on the device you are using with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk, re-enable Bluetooth on the device and re-pair it with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Make sure the power cable in the AMPLIFi/Firehawk is firmly connected. Turn your AMPLIFi/Firehawk off and back on again, re-pair it with your Bluetooth device. Make sure that you have updated your AMPLIFi/Firehawk to the latest available firmware. For instructions on how to update your AMPLIFi's firmware, click HERE. Check for your environment for the common sources interference above of and move both the AMPLIFi/Firehawk and your Bluetooth device away from the interference or the source of interference away from the area. On iOS devices, you can reset network settings by tapping Settings > General > Reset > Reset Network Settings. Note: This will reset all network settings including: previously connected Wi-Fi networks and passwords, recently used Bluetooth accessories, VPN, and APN settings.
 After the iOS device has reset you can try again to re-pair it with your AMPLIFi/Firehawk. Dépannage Bluetooth pour l’AMPLIFi Cliquez ici pour une vidéo du couplage Bluetooth sur l’AMPLIFi. Pour coupler votre AMPLIFi avec un appareil Bluetooth: Activez le Bluetooth sur votre appareil à partir duquel vous voulez diffuser de la musique. Mettez l’AMPLIFi en mode „Pairing‘ en appuyant sur le bouton Bluetooth sur le dessus de l’AMPLIFi. Le bouton commence de clignoter que veut dire que l’AMPLIFi est en mode de couplage. Dans les options de Bluetooth de votre appareil, une entrée « AMPLIFi » s’affichera. Sélectez l’entrée « AMPLIFi » et couplez les appareils. Le LED s’arrête de clignoter et s’allume continué. Vous pouvez diffuser votre musique sur l’AMPLIFi sans câble. Si vous rencontrez des décrochages audio, de connectivité intermittente, gamme diminué en utilisant Bluetooth ou si vous avez des problèmes de trouver, coupler ou connecter vos appareils, il est plus probable que vous avez des interférences avec la connexion Bluetooth. Sources fréquentes des interférences Bluetooth : Des barrières matérielles. Des objets dans la ligne visée. Tous les appareils, routeurs, points d’accès et accessoires WiFi. Des appareils ou accessoires Bluetooth. Des systèmes Direct Satellite Service. Des sources électroniques extrêmes comme lignes électriques, voies ferrées électriques et centrales électriques. Essayez le dépannage suivant dans l’ordre indiqué pour réduire l’interférence Bluetooth: Assurez-vous que l’appareil Bluetooth est en gamme de l’AMPLIFi. Les pluparts des accessoires Bluetooth ont une gamme Bluetooth de 9 mètres. Placez votre appareil iOS plus proche de l’AMPLIFi. Positionnez votre AMPLIFi de sorte qu’il est en ligne visée directe avec l’appareil Bluetooth. Enlevez le boitier, le support ou accessoires que vous utilisez avec l’appareil Bluetooth. Revérifier si l’appareil est connecté et couplé avec l’AMPLIFi. Si l’AMPLIFi est nommé dans la liste des appareils Bluetooth comme « Pas connecté » ou « Pas couplé » supprimez-le de la liste des appareils Bluetooth disponibles. Appuyez et maintenez le bouton le bouton Bluetooth sure l’AMPLIFi pour 2-3 secondes. Maintenant, le bouton clignote que veut dire que l’appareil est en « mode couplage ». Essayez de coupler les appareils encore une fois. Désactivez Bluetooth sur l’appareil que vous utilisez avec l’AMPLIFi. Réactivez-le et essayez de coupler les appareils encore une fois. Assurez-vous que le câble d’alimentation est connecté bien. Éteindrez l’AMPLIFi et rallumez-le. Couplez les appareils de nouveau. Assurez-vous que le firmware est à jour. Cliquez ici pour les instructions de la mise à jour firmware. Vérifiez votre environnement pour les sources communes d'interférence et éloignez l’AMPLIFi et l’appareil Bluetooth de l’interférence. Sur les appareils iOS, vous pouvez réinitialiser les paramètres réseau dans : Réglages > Général > Réinitialiser > Réinitialiser les réglages réseau. Attention, ceci réinitialise tous les réglages réseau compris sont les mots de passes réseau WiFi connectés, des accessoires Bluetooth récemment utilisés et des paramètres VPN et APN. Après cette réinitialisation, essayez de coupler les appareils. AMPLIFi Bluetooth Fehlerbehebung: Klicken Sie hier für ein Video wie Sie Ihr AMPLIFi per Bluetooth koppeln können. Um Ihr AMPLIFi mit einem anderen Bluetooth Gerät zu koppeln: Schalten Sie Bluetooth auf dem Gerät ein von welchem aus Sie die Musik streamen wollen. Schalten Sie den Koppelmodus Ihres AMPLIFi ein indem Sie den Bluetooth Knopf oben auf dem AMPLIFi für 2 bis 3 Sekunden gedrückt halten. Der Knopf wird dann anfangen zu blinken un der LED des „Master Volume“ Knopfes zird weiß blinken. In den Bluetooth Einstellungen wird das AMPLIFi dann als Gerät auftauchen. Wählen Sie das AMPLIFi aus und koppeln Sie beide Geräte. Der Bluetooth LED wird dann in durchgehendem Blau leuchten. Das AMPLIFi ist nun bereit Musik von Ihrem gekoppelten Gerät zu empfangen. Falls Ihr AMPLIFi unerwartete Aussetzer, abbrechende Verbindung, verringerte Reichweite oder andere Probleme wie Schwierigkeiten beim verbinden, koppeln oder suchen anderer Bluetooth geräte hat, dann gibt es wahrscheinlich Interferenzen in der Bluetooth Verbindung zwischen beiden Geräten. Häufige Quellen für Bluetooth Interferenzen sind zum Beispiel: Objekte die sich in der Sichtlinie zwischen AMPLIFi und Bluetooth Gerät befinden. WiFi Geräte, Router, Hotspots oder sonstiges WiFi Zubehör. Andere Bluetooth Geräte. Direct Satellite Service Systeme. Starke Stromquellen wie Stromleitungen, elektrische Eisenbahnschienen oder Kraftwerke. Versuchen Sie Folgendes in der angegebenen Reihenfolge um Bluetooth Interferenzen zu minimieren: Stellen Sie sicher, dass Sie mit Ihrem Bluetooth Gerät in der Nähe des AMPLIFi befinden. Die meisten Bluetooth Geräte haben eine Bluetooth Reichweite von ca. 9 Metern. Platzieren Sie Ihr iOS Gerät näher ans AMPLIFi. Positionieren Sie Ihr AMPLIFi so neu, dass es in direkter Sichtlienie zum Bluetooth Gerät steht mit welchem Sie es koppeln wollen. Entfernen Sie Gehäuse, Ständer oder anderes Zubehör, welches an das Bluetooth Gerät angeschlossen ist. Überprüfen Sie noch einmal ob Ihr Gerät korrekt mit dem AMPLIFi gekoppelt ist. Sollte Ihr AMPLIFi auf Ihrem Bluetooth Gerät als Nicht Verbunden oder Nicht Gekoppelt angezeigt werden, versuchen Sie das Gerät aus der Liste der zur Verfügung stehenden Bluetooth Geräte zu löschen. Halten Sie dann die Bluetooth Taste auf Ihrem AMPLIFi gedrückt. Die Bluetooth Taste sollte nun blinken, was bedeutet, dass Ihr AMPLIFi im Koppelmodus ist. Verusuchen Sie erneut die Geräte zu koppeln. Schalten Sie Bluetooth auf dem Gerät, welches Sie mit dem AMPLIFi koppeln wollen ab. Schalten Sie es wieder ein und versuchen Sie erneut zu koppeln. Überprüfen Sie das Stromkabel das AMPLIFi und ob es sitzt. Schalten Sie das AMPLIFi aus, wieder ein und koppeln Sie erneut. Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Firmware des AMPLIFi auf dem neuesten Stand ist. Klicken Sie hier für eine Anleitung für ein Firmwareupdate. Überprüfen Sie die Umgebung auf Interferenzen. Bewegen Sie das Bluetooth gerät sowie das AMPLIFi weg von der Quelle der Interferenzen. Auf iOS Geräten können Sie die Netzwerkeinstellungen hier zurücksetzen: "Einstellungen" > "Allgemein" > "Zurücksetzen" > "Netzwerkeinstellungen". Achtung, dies wird jegliche Netzwerkeinstellungen zurücksetzen, eischließlich alles Bluetooth Kopplungen, WLAN-Kennwörter und VPN sowie APN Eisntellungen.
  5. Hi Gang. I'm a luthier when I'm not doing my first job of concert sound and teching. So a few months back, I successfully, and rather easily, transplanted all the electronics out of my tick-blood-red Variax 300 guitar and put in into a colorshift Strat (see the pic). It is absolutely my favorite guitar. Upon that success, I picked up a Variax 700 bass and am working on the same kind of project - putting the electronics into my own build (see the cat bass). This time, in addition to separating the bridge and cat5/TRS jack's cables from the "coffin" electronics while creating the design, I had to take the motherboard and controls circuit out of the coffin as well to create a new layout in the bass body. It's just a matter of unplugging a few ribbon and multipin cables and reattaching. Well, it should be .... I have everything back together but I cannot get the bass to come to life. Instead, when it powers up, the LED light (which is either normally red or green displaying which A/B model you've selected per bass), is just a flashing red (3x per second approximately). I have disconnected and reconnected everything, several times, blowing out parts and checking everything thrice as I go, and no progress. In reading these threads, someone suggested I plug the bass into the Monkey and reinitialize. I tried this, but the bass is invisible to the Line6 software (where my 300 shows up immediately). My next step was to start a ticket with Line6. I asked them how to reinitialize, or what the blinking LED code may be, or which part of the circuitry (I/O, tone controls, motherboard, bridge) is the likely culprit ... and to please sell me a replacement part. Naturally, their response was that I have to send this in for troubleshooting, which of course will be my LAST resort. Can anyone help me troubleshoot this? All insights are welcomed! Thanks Chris Famous Guitar Replicas
  6. I have been using a Pod X3 Live for about 4 years. It was bought 2nd hand so its well out of date now, and parts cannot be easily obtained in the UK. Last year the power supply went down totally and my techie boffin pal rigged up a workaround, because the parts to reinstate it were not available. He did warn me that it may not be economic to repair again and would probably blow again. Anyway it suddenly stopped dead and went blank a week ago, admittedly after I had been perhaps over-enthusiastically wa-wa-ing, (which might be a clue?). I smelled burning so something shorted out. My boffin pal had a look and tells me its all powering up OK, and there is no obvious burned out part visible, but there is no audio output at all! Its probably bound for the scrap heap to be replaced by a second hand HD500X off ebay, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if there might be a simple fix for this? My immediate thought is either that the sound output power supply (on the board?) has blown, or its something to do with the expression pedal failing. A second question is whether I will be able to load in my setups via Gearbox into the HD500X? I think so, but nobody I have asked knows for sure. It would be so great not to have to reinvent the wheel!
  7. Q: The ABCD lights are flashing and the unit does not function, even after a factory reset. A: This is recovery mode, meaning there was a failed update attempt. The unit will function again once the update is successfully completed. In the event of a failed update, power up while holding A/C and retry the update using the Line 6 Updater found at www.line6.com/software. If the update fails repeatedly, you likely need to try the process on a different computer. Q: I'm seeing the "Load error 21" error message OR the A/D lights are solid and the unit is non-responsive. A: These situations are likely caused by corrupt tones. If you find yourself in one of these "bad tone" situations, you should follow the steps below get to a fresh state: o Copy your User tones to My Tones (backed up in the cloud) or share them with the other options offered by the app so that they're backed up o Forget the Bluetooth connection o Reset the unit ( hold Master volume + tap while powering up) o (Re)install the v1.10 firmware, which resolved many patch and Bluetooth issues o Uninstall the app o Power cycle mobile device o Install latest version of app o Pair to Firehawk Load user patches one by one, testing each one along the way, to find the bad patch. It would be great if you can tell us if you find a bad patch you found on our cloud so we can test it and/or eliminate it. Q: What can I do if I am experiencing Bluetooth connectivity issues between my Bluetooth device and the FIREHAWK FX? A: Make sure you are using the latest firmware and app. For other troubleshooting steps about Bluetooth connectivity and usage, check out our Bluetooth Connectivity FAQ HERE. Q: What should I do If I am experiencing connection issues with the FIREHAWK FX Remote app when I switch back and forth between apps on my iOS device? A: An important thing to note about the FIREHAWK FX Remote app functionality is that in addition to the iOS Bluetooth connection between your FIREHAWK FX and your iOS device, there is a secondary 'sync' connection between the amp and the app. Each time you minimize/close the app, the connection between the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and the FIREHAWK FX will need to be re-established, even if your iOS device is reporting that the FIREHAWK FX is connected via 'Bluetooth'. In this case, re-opening the FIREHAWK FX Remote app will automatically re-establish the connection within a few seconds. Make sure to look at the main menu of the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and wait for it to indicate that your FIREHAWK FX is 'connected' before moving forward using the app. If it does not automatically re-connect, close the FIREHAWK FX Remote app by double-tapping your iOS home key, then sliding the FIREHAWK FX Remote app window up and off the screen. Relaunch the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and it should re-sync itself with the FIREHAWK FX. Android devices usually have a function that lists all open programs where you can slide the app left or right to close it. Relaunch the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and it should re-sync itself with the hardware.
  8. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
  9. I'm not getting any sound from my Flextone II (there is only 1 speaker). It's just a "regular" Flextone II...not an XL, or a Plus, etc. I was playing, and then all of a sudden...no sound. This amp is about 12 years old, used fairly regularly, very good condition, never dropped (lol), never modified/updated in any way, completely "stock". I am getting power It seems to be ok when using the headphone jack....I can hear the differences when I move through amp choices The Line 6 speaker is not blown...(I ran the speaker leads of another small amp to the Line 6 speaker) I didn't notice anything different about the amp prior to losing sound I removed the head from the enclosure and looked at components....didn't see anything broken, no burn marks, etc. I will be checking to see if it might be the speaker/lead wire. Aside from that I don't know what to check. I'd appreciate any troubleshooting tips....things I can look for or test? Are there any "typical" issues, or components that blow out on this particular amp? Thanks Steve
  10. Hello all! I have been attempting to use my favorite pedal, Mr. Black Supermoon Chrome reverb in the effects loop of my Helix. However, no matter where I place it in the chain on the Helix, it creates a ton of muddy distortion in the chain. I have used it at anywhere from 100% mix to 40% mix, changed the boost of the effects loop from +0.0db to -10.0db and nothing seems to change. What can can I do to make it sound better with the Helix patches?
  11. Guest

    Windows Driver Removal

    How to uninstall drivers from your Windows 7, 8, or 10 machine Note: You must have administrator privileges to uninstall a device or driver package by using Device Manager. To uninstall all drivers for Line 6 gear by using Device Manager, follow these steps: 1. Open Control Panel, click Hardware and Sound, and then click Device Manager. 2. Expand the node that represents the type of device that you want to uninstall, right-click the device entry, and click Uninstall. 3. On the Confirm Device Removal dialog box, click the box that says "Delete the driver software for this device" and then click OK 4. When the uninstall process is complete, unplug the devices USB connection. 5. Without closing the Device Manager screen plug your USB device back in and wait to see if Windows assigns an older driver to the device. You will know if Windows finds another driver to assign if Device Manager recognizes the device If it assigns another driver, please repeat the steps. 6. You will know if another driver doesn't get assigned when Device Manager recognizes the Line 6 gear as 'Unknown Device'. 7. Once you've removed all the drivers and Windows does not recognize the device, unplug the unit once and re install the latest Line 6 driver from the website. http://line6.com/software/ 8. Plug it back in and wait for Windows to assign the newly installed driver.
  12. Oddly I cannot download the HD500 Edit software. I've tried multiple browsers (turning off all adblocking, etc.) as well as through the Monkey interface. No matter what I do the download initializes but will sit at 0.0 kb. Anyone know what's going on? Is there an alternative link I could try instead? EDIT: Oddly I can download it without problem on my machine at work.
  13. I apologize if this topic has already been addressed. If so, please help and direct me to the information that was discussed. Thank you! When connecting my Firehawk 1500 via the Main XLR outputs on the back to my PA system (Behringer X18 iOS Live Sound Console), I am getting a clipping sound through the PA speaker. As I play and listen simultaneously to what is coming out of the PA and what is coming out of the Firehawk 1500, the clipping sound is only coming out of the PA speaker, not coming out of the Firehawk 1500. I will say that I first experienced this issue while running a mono output from the Firehawk 1500, but there should still not be any clipping even if I run a mono output feed. I have the gain on the mixer turned down very low to where it is almost off and there is still a clipping sound. This is not a grounding issue so I do not need the Ground Lift activated. I already checked that while troubleshooting. I troubleshooted with other XLR cables; all still with the same clipping result occurring. It is not a cable issue. If anyone has had any issue similar to what I am currently dealing with and had a resolve, please let me know exactly how you solved this issue. I will answer any questions that are posed. Thank you! Charlie
  14. Hey so I bought my Line 6 DL-4 a couple of months ago used from reverb. When I first got it it worked like a charm and I had no issues. As I kept using it I would save some delay presets and jam with them for a while and then use the factory reset to erase them so I could keep exploring all of the possible effects. Well after a couple of months of use I went to yet again factory reset it by holding the A and the D buttons with the guitar input unplugged. The DL-4 would flash the lights as if it had been reset but none of the presets are erased! If I am missing something or anyone has any ideas on what I could do to fix it that would be great!
  15. Unable to connect Samsung S5 to amplifi FX100,
  16. Hi Guys, I have been using my UX2 to do all my recordings for different things. Unfortunatly I have recently updated to Mavricks 10.9.5 and just recently upgraded my Line Monkey, Drivers and Podfarm to the latest versions. Using my UX2 through Cubase 6.5 now inputs/ picks up the device and allows me to record, then when I try and play it back I cannot here anything. If anyone else using Cubase has had this problem let me know how you fixed it. I checked the entire installation method and all the manuals for my device and it is all seemingly correct apart from one section. In: Cubase >Devices>VST Connections > Outputs I can only select Not Connected or my UX2 and not my internal speakers. Any help or ideas would be extremely helpful, I am also checking out Cubase troubleshooting see what I can find. Thanks!
  17. Hello Line 6 community, I recently received the Line 6 UX2 POD studio as a gift. I previously had the GX POD on a different system and decided it was time to step up. After updating all my drivers and having everything up to date, I was still a little peeved that I could only have access to the same amp models as when I had my GX. I had updated my POD farm to the latest version, un-installed, and did it again with no luck. I was able to run my pod setup through my DAW (I use reaper) and record, I even put out a track to test the new hardware. However, today after a session crash I was afraid that I blew it, because the lights on the level meters would not turn on. After rebooting, the POD worked again but I decided it was time to get my amp models. Then, I ran the License Manager. I had previously registered my device through the line 6 site. After running the license manager and registering my product and my computer, I opened my pod farm to find all my missing tones! However, now my UX2 POD was not picking up any signal. I would plug in my speakers and see the two level meters register, but my POD farm still was not recognizing signal from my guitar. I rebooted my comp, and now my POD studio doesn't register a thing. TL:DR; UX2 POD studio worked fine prior to running the License Manager from Line 6 Monkey. Now I can't get POD farm to recognize my guitar signal. -Chuck
  18. Deutsch Français Please go through the following list before updating your James Tyler Variax guitar to flash memory v1.81 and newer from an earlier version of the flash memory to ensure the update completes successfully: Ensure that the interface you are using to update the JTV guitar with (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) is NOTconnected to the computer through a USB hub. Make sure to connect the interface into a USB port directly into the computer, especially into the back of a desktop. If problems persist, make sure to test all of the USB ports on the computer. Avoid plugging into USB ports found on keyboards, monitors, or laptop docks. [*]When using the Workbench Interface to update or edit the JTV guitar, ensure that a charged battery is in the guitar and a 1/4" TS mono cable is inserted into the guitar's output jack to power on the guitar. [*]Ensure that the Volume knob on the guitar is NOT set to the '0' position as it will put the guitar into Power Save Mode. Make sure that the Volume knob is set higher than 0 when updating or editing the JTV guitar. [*]Please use the VDI Cable that comes with the JTV guitar when updating the flash memory. Avoid using VDI or CAT5 cables longer than 10 ft. in length when updating the James Tyler Variax. [*]During the update, select 'NO' when asked if you would like to keep the presets on the guitar. Use the Workbench software to back up your guitar presets before updating if you would like to keep them. [*]Close out any other applications running on your computer before updating the JTV guitar. Please use the following link for the flash memory update instructions: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions Checkliste für James Tyler Variax Updates: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Schnittstelle, welche Sie zum aktualisieren Ihrer JTV benutzen (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) nicht per USB Hub an Ihren Computer angeschlossen ist. Stecken Sie die Schnittstelle hinten direkt in einen der USB Ports Ihres Computers. Wenn weiterhin Probleme bestehen sollten Sie alle USB Ports ausprobieren. Achtung, vermeiden Sie es, die Schnittstelle in einen USB Port einer Tastatur, eines Monitors oder eines Laptop-Docks zu stecken. [*]Wenn Sie das Workbench Interface benutzen, um Ihre JTV zu bearbeiten oder aktualisieren, stellen Sie sicher, dass die Batterie vollgeladen und ein 6.35mm TS Mono Kabel im Gitarren Ausgangs-Jack eingesteckt ist, um die Gitarre anzuschalten. [*]Der "Volume" Knopf darf nicht auf der "0" Position sein, da die Gitarre ansonsten in den Energiesparmodus geht. Der "Volume" Knopf muss also auf einer anderen Position sein als "0" um die Aktualisierung durchzuführen. [*]Bitte benutzen Sie das VDI Kabel, welches bei der Gitarre mitgeliefert wurde wenn Sie Flash Memory aktualisieren möchten. Benutzen Sie möglichste keine CAT 5 oder VDI Kabel, die länger als 3 Meter sind wenn Sie die James Tyler Variax aktualisieren. [*]Während der Aktualisierung klicken Sie "NO" wenn Sie gefragt werden ob Sie die Presets behalten ("keep presets o nthe guitar") möchten. Sie sollten die Presets, die Sie behalten wollen vor dem Update per Workbench Software sichern. [*]Schließen Sie alle unnötigen Programme bevor Sie die JTV Gitarre aktualisieren. Bitte folgen Sie diesem Link, um Anweisungen zur Aktualisierung des Flash Memory zu erhalten: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions Liste de contrôle des mises à jour James Tyler Variax: Assurez-vous que l'interface pour connecter la guitare JTV à l'ordinateur (Workbench Interface, PODxt Live/Pro, POD X3 Live/Pro, POD HD500/HD Pro, Vetta II) n'est pas connectée à l'ordinateur via un hub USB. Connectez l'interface directement sur un port USB en arrière de l'ordinateur. Si vous avez des problèmes, essayez tous les ports USB de l'ordinateur. Évitez de brancher sur les ports USB sur les claviers, moniteurs ou stations d'accueil pour ordinateur portable. [*]Si vous utilisez l'interface Workbench pour mettre à jour la guitare, assurez-vous qu'une batterie chargée est dans la guitare et un câble TS mono 6.35m m est branché dans le jack de sortie de la guitare pour l'a llumer. [*]Le bouton "Volume" ne doit pas être sur la position "0" parce que ca met la guitare dans le mode économie d'énergie. Mettez-le sur une autre position que "0". [*]Veuillez utiliser le câble VDI fourni avec la guitare JTV si vous mettez le Flash Memory (firmware de la guitare) à jour. Évitez d'utiliser des câbles CAT5/VDI plus long que 3 mètres pour la mise à jour. [*]Pendant la mise à jour, cliquez sur "NO" pour la question "keep presets on the guitar". Utilisez le logiciel Workbench pour sauvegarder vos presets avant que vous mettez la firmware à jour si vous les voulez garder. [*]Fermez tous les autres programmes inutiles avant que vous mettez la JTV à jour. Utilisez le lien suivant pour les instructions de la mise à jour Flash Memory: Variax Reflash and Software Update Instructions
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