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  1. I've gone ahead and opened up a ticket for a failing footswitch on by brand new Helix. Anyone else experience anything similar? Any solutions? My heart is broken!
  2. Hi, I bought Helix lt in April 2018, since then I was very satisfied with this unit. Since almost 2 months, the Helix onboard expression pedal is behaving very random, being this the second or third time it happens to me: The expression pedal stops working for no reason. The switch toggle from exp 1/exp 2 works fine, I've tried switching presets, snapshots, switching from exp 1/2 , deleting Volume block and adding it again, new preset with volume block, etc. Im thinking also in a factory reset, cause this is very annoying. The worst part is that it happens while gigging, from one part of a song to another, the pedal stops working. I don't want to lose confidence on this unit but it's giving me a hard time. If I'm using it for swelling, well , it is a FAIL if the unit's expression pedal behaves randomly. I have external expression pedals, but using one doesn't fix my issue. The first time it happened to me, it lasted like 1 hour or so, this time I don't know. I just switched it off cause I was tired . I started to look on google hoping to know what was happening, but I think it only happens to me, since there's no other cases like mine in forums, at least. While digging I found out this thing has an optical sensor, but nothing else. Maybe that's the trouble, the damn sensor. Can you help me with this? Thanks
  3. So randomly today, my Helix will not power on. I turned it on and the usual Helix splash screen came up, and then a few seconds later it looked all warped/glitchy, and then there was nothing but a blank screen (see pic attached). I just got this/registered it in February and opened a support ticket. Anyone else have the same issue or anything similar? I realllly don't want to have to buy another one, and hope Line6 can fix/replace this unit! -Andrew
  4. Q: My Line 6 device is malfunctioning. Where can I get it fixed? A: Please check your product Manuals and our Knowledge Base to ensure that your unit is truly malfunctioning before taking the unit to your nearest service center. Also be sure to Register your Line 6 gear to your Line 6 account. A dated proof of purchase is required if you are having any warranty work performed. Please be aware that "expedited" and "rush" fees will not be covered under warranty for any reason. ***Please note: Repair time can vary from weeks to months depending on the kind of repair, repairs already in line ahead of yours and the availability of replacement parts. United States: You can have your unit repaired at any one of our Line 6 Authorized Service Centers across the United States, or repaired by Line 6 via an RMA. NOTE: Amplifiers and cabinets are not eligible to be repaired via a Line 6 RMA. Such repairs are handled by Authorized Service Centers. Authorized Service Centers are able to repair products that are both in warranty and out-of-warranty. Prices for parts and repairs are set by the independent service center. Repairs include a 90-day warranty. Other Countries: Please contact your distributor line6.com/find/distributor/. Q: Will Authorized Service Centers repair guitars? If not, what options are available? A: The Service Center finder includes if an ASC repairs guitars. If a given Authorized Service Center does not repair guitars, the repair will have to go to an ASC that does repair guitars, or it can be repaired at Line 6 via an RMA. Q: How much is it going to cost to get my Line 6 device fixed? A: Line 6 is unable to provide estimates on behalf of our service centers, as the service centers establish their own repair rates and bench fees. For non-warranty repairs, user must be prepared to pay any shipping costs, labor fees and parts costs associated with your repair. With a validated warranty, Line 6 will pick up the cost of the repair, not including shipping from the user. Q: Where can I purchase parts for my Line 6 device? A: Line 6 provides a number of replacement parts through our Online Store. If you are unable to find the part you need on the store, you may contact one of our Service Centers or Dealers to special order some parts. Another good source is www.FullCompass.com. Some parts, such as circuit boards and PCBA assemblies, are not sold to the public. Please keep in mind that parts sales are at the service center's or dealer's discretion. Line 6 does not sell parts directly to the public. Q: Can I fix my Line 6 device myself? Can I get repair assistance from Line 6? A: If your Line 6 product needs repair, we strongly suggest you contact the nearest authorized service center in your region. Line 6 does not offer repair assistance via email or telephone. Also, Line 6 does not provide circuit diagrams, blueprints or schematics for consumer use at this time. Keep in mind that should you choose to modify or repair your unit at any time during your warranty period, the warranty will no longer be valid. Q. I'm not sure if my unit is under warranty, how do I find out? A: Please refer to our Product Warranty FAQ for all warranty information. Q: I want to customize my Line 6 device, but I do not know how to do the customization. Does Line 6 support customizing or modifying gear? A: Line 6 does not support the customization or modification of Line 6 products, outside of official firmware updates or hardware upgrades performed by an authorized Line 6 service center. Unsupported customizations or modifications of your Line 6 device will void the device's warranty. Q: Is there a way that I can determine the date of manufacturing of a Line 6 device by the serial number? A: All serial number information is for internal use only and is not made public knowledge.
  5. Hi, My g10 is no longer working. I have had a search but can't find any conclusive answers. When I try to charge, the base unit is just flashing a steady red ring. The transmitter is showing no signs of life at all. I have tried updating to all the latest firmware, but no improvment. Anything I can do? Cheers,
  6. I thought I’d share a quick and cheap solution for those who lost their Variax VDI socket cover/plug. Google for “neutrik scf”. Works great and looks neat. Cheers!
  7. If you are having trouble with your DL-4 MkII stompbox modeler, please try the following: - Use a different guitar, cables, and amp to make sure they are individually working correctly. - Remove all other pedals between your instrument and the amplifier. Ensure that: - The cables you are using to test work correctly by plugging directly from the instrument into the amplifier. - All jacks and nuts on the pedal are tight. - The unit is receiving sufficient power from the correct power supply (fresh batteries or a Line 6 DC-3g, DC-3h or DC-1g). Do not use old batteries to test pedals. - Reset the pedal by pressing the A and 'Tap' footswitches while inserting the power connector and powering on. Continue to hold the switches for approximately 8 seconds, until you see the green LEDs light up. - The last thing to try is to reinstall the firmware. Go to https://line6.com/software/index.html, choose "DL4 MkII" and "Firmware" from the menus, then follow the directions listed with the latest firmware entry. If you are still having difficulty you will need to have the unit repaired at an Authorized Service Center. All Line 6 Pedals carry a 12 month parts and labor warranty from the date of purchase from an Authorized Retailer. Please take a copy of the dated proof of purchase to ensure the warranty is covered. Product Repair Line 6 Product Warranty
  8. We recently saw a few cases where after updating a G10TII transmitter, it became non-operational. We believe the root cause is this: Line 6 Updater 1.19 unexpectedly identifies G10TII devices as G10T devices. Due to this, it is possible that one could load G10T firmware 1.06 on a G10TII product. If one ever gets into a state where they incorrectly load G10T firmware onto a G10TII, as described above, the issue can be remedied by downloading and installing the latest Line 6 Updater (version 1.20 or later – the latest version is now 1.23) and using it to re-update the G10TII back to the G10TII firmware. As of this writing, the only G10TII firmware release is the initial public firmware (2.00.0). NOTE: If the G10TII does not appear in Line 6 Updater after a few seconds, try un-docking/re-docking the unit a few times to see if it might then be recognized.
  9. I have a V 60 and a gt10 transmitter and I cannot get any sound out of this thing. Nothing from the woofer, tweeter or, the headphone jack. Nothing plays regardless of cable choice and nothing from the aux input or drum tracks / metronome etc. Regardless of hard wire or with gt10 (which shows connected when on) I dont even see a signal in tuner mode. I have tried updating the firmware multiple times, even down grading and then re updating to current, including factory resets multiple times. I have experience with diagnosing amp issues and literally just repaired my LD300 I wish I could find any type of schematic for this glue covered mess. The least Line 6 could do (considering it seems like so many Spider V's have this issue) is offer some replacement parts for sale. Ridiculous we should have to pay 90$ an hour for repairs when the components are so plug and play. Anyways - rant over, any ideas? Lol
  10. So I don't know what happened to my amp but i was about to plug in my guitar and tune it up then it happened the tuner worked like i was able to tune up my guitar with the built in tuner but when i turned it off to play i wasnt getting any sound so i went through basic trouble shooting i checked my knobs and my cable i plugged my guitar into a different amp it worked just fine so then i wondered what the issue was so i plugged in my aux cord to see if if that works which it did i factory reset all the lights work i have no idea whats wrong with it can someone help please
  11. Hello all. I’ll try my best to explain this, I’ve only been playing a bit over a year so my terminology is sub par. I bought this amp for $400+ effing dollars and within 2 months of owning it, I go to practice and I notice my sound is now very fuzzy and bassy. It was VERY crunchy, clear and metal sounding, but now it is so fuzzy that I can barely distinguish my notes when fast picking or fingering......sounds like total crap TBH. I have never moved the amp since I brought it home. No liquids, physical damage, weather damage or anything. Curious what I can try to fix this? I’m somewhat tech savvy, and would really rather avoid paying more to get it fixed when I can barely afford the $400 amp itself. I’ve gone through all the settings, factory reset it, but nothing. It will randomly work for a minute or two out of nowhere, but will go back to sounding awful soon. Adjusting the Input jack has no effect to the sound. One thing I noticed, is when this happened, the built in tuner stopped reading my input..... would act as if I was unplugged. The tuner has since started working again, but the speaker itself (or the software, not a clue...) still sounds very Fuzzy with low distortion, low clarity, and very bassy.
  12. Q: Is Biasing covered under warranty? A: Typically not. It should be considered as part of the routine maintenance in keeping your amplifier at its peak performance. However, if re-biasing is required as part of other warranty service, it will be covered under the warranty policy. Q: My tubes are not working (i.e. not lighting up, no output, etc). A: Check the following: Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket Other tube situations: My tubes make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes - the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. The appearance of 'white frost' inside the tube - the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. General Guideline for Replacing Tubes: Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/ or adjusted by an Authorized Line 6 Service Center. Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged.
  13. Q: The ABCD lights are flashing and the unit does not function, even after a factory reset. A: This is recovery mode, meaning there was a failed update attempt. The unit will function again once the update is successfully completed. In the event of a failed update, power up while holding A/C and retry the update using the Line 6 Updater found at www.line6.com/software. If the update fails repeatedly, you likely need to try the process on a different computer. Q: I'm seeing the "Load error 21" error message OR the A/D lights are solid and the unit is non-responsive. A: These situations are likely caused by corrupt tones. If you find yourself in one of these "bad tone" situations, you should follow the steps below get to a fresh state: o Copy your User tones to My Tones (backed up in the cloud) or share them with the other options offered by the app so that they're backed up o Forget the Bluetooth connection o Reset the unit ( hold Master volume + tap while powering up) o (Re)install the v1.10 firmware, which resolved many patch and Bluetooth issues o Uninstall the app o Power cycle mobile device o Install latest version of app o Pair to Firehawk Load user patches one by one, testing each one along the way, to find the bad patch. It would be great if you can tell us if you find a bad patch you found on our cloud so we can test it and/or eliminate it. Q: What can I do if I am experiencing Bluetooth connectivity issues between my Bluetooth device and the FIREHAWK FX? A: Make sure you are using the latest firmware and app. For other troubleshooting steps about Bluetooth connectivity and usage, check out our Bluetooth Connectivity FAQ HERE. Q: What should I do If I am experiencing connection issues with the FIREHAWK FX Remote app when I switch back and forth between apps on my iOS device? A: An important thing to note about the FIREHAWK FX Remote app functionality is that in addition to the iOS Bluetooth connection between your FIREHAWK FX and your iOS device, there is a secondary 'sync' connection between the amp and the app. Each time you minimize/close the app, the connection between the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and the FIREHAWK FX will need to be re-established, even if your iOS device is reporting that the FIREHAWK FX is connected via 'Bluetooth'. In this case, re-opening the FIREHAWK FX Remote app will automatically re-establish the connection within a few seconds. Make sure to look at the main menu of the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and wait for it to indicate that your FIREHAWK FX is 'connected' before moving forward using the app. If it does not automatically re-connect, close the FIREHAWK FX Remote app by double-tapping your iOS home key, then sliding the FIREHAWK FX Remote app window up and off the screen. Relaunch the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and it should re-sync itself with the FIREHAWK FX. Android devices usually have a function that lists all open programs where you can slide the app left or right to close it. Relaunch the FIREHAWK FX Remote app and it should re-sync itself with the hardware.
  14. Francais. Deutsch. If you are having trouble with your Line 6 amplifier, please check the following points before taking your amplifier to your local Authorized Service Center: Q: I am noticing that I am getting volume/tone changes when playing at a high volume? A: Try "parking" the knobs (except master volume) at 100% to ensure that the knobs are not moving to the "current" location rather than the preset location. Recall a preset once the knobs are parked to ensure the tone you are working with is a preset rather than the current knob position. Q: My master volume has almost no change past 6? A: This is due to the volume pot installed on all Line 6 amplifiers. A solution to this would be to replace it with an "audio" pot, but this modification wouldn't make it louder - just smoother. Line 6 originally installed audio pots on the AXSYS, but players didn't like them because they made the amp feel "wimpy". Players also did not like the fact that they had to turn the amp up to about 4-5 before it would start "happening" and 7-8 on the gig. Even though there was still a good amount of headroom, player feedback was that they preferred the amplifier with the traditional volume pot, so that is the style used with Line 6 amplifiers. - Perform a factory reset of the unit: Factory Reset Procedures Volume and Signal Troubleshooting - turn off other volume controls not being used (i.e. volume trim pots) - Ensure there is no debris in the CAT-5 or input jacks. - Unplug all other units from the audio chain, as well as any CAT-5 cables and controllers. - Use a high-quality cable you know is functional (i.e. works in a different application) directly into the instrument input, bypassing all other effect units. - Ensure that the guitar/bass is outputting signal. Try the amplifier with another instrument you know is functional (if possible).Make sure all the input and output jacks are tight. Check the instrument with different pickup settings to make sure it is not a bad pickup connection. - Ensure that both the positive (white) and negative (black or red) wires are fully connected to the speaker, and that the speaker output from the amplifier is plugged into the correct jack (when applicable). - Check the effects loop (if the amp has one). If you're not getting any signal, try plugging into the RETURN side of the loop to see if there is any output. Likewise, with a source feeding the input, plug the SEND into another line level device to see if you're getting signal. Tone and Rattle Troubleshooting - Check the make sure all buttons on the unit are not stuck - Be sure that all screws on the unit (handle, corners, baffle boards, speakers) are snug. - Ensure that there are no foreign objects (i.e. silicon packs) stuck in the speaker enclosures Q: Are the tone controls on the on a Line 6 amplifier passive or active, and where is the "flat" level? A: Each amp model is different, and the controls behaves like the target amp. Most tube amplifiers will have a passive tone stack with makeup gain. Line 6 tone stacks are designed to behave just like the modeled amp (both the good and the not so good). Some amplifier tone stacks are the closest to flat when set B-0, M-10, T-0, but it is different for each model. Power Troubleshooting - Ensure that there is sufficient power coming from the power outlet into the amplifier. Try a different circuit to ensure there is not a power issue at the outlet. - Make sure that the both ends of the power cable are snug in their sockets. Tube Amplifiers Troubleshooting - Make sure the tube is firmly seated in the tube socket. - If the tube(s) make a popping sound accompanied by intermittent light from tubes, the tube is failing and needs to be replaced. - If there is "white frost" inside the tube, the tube has cracked and it must be replaced. - If there is a "tube" ringing (not due to loose screws), there may be a failing tube. Replace the 12AX7s individually and the matched 6L6 pairs to determine if a tube has failed. Replacing Tubes - Always replace power amp tubes with matched set(s) every 12-24 months depending on the amount of use, and have the bias checked and/or adjusted by an authorized Line 6 Service Center. - Preamp tubes (such as the two 12AX7s) only need to be replaced when they are microphonic (ringing sound from tubes when tapped), noisy, or damaged. Replacing tubes should be done a Line 6 authorized service center. The digital stage and analog tube stages communicate with one another, and so are not like the all analog tube (valve) amps from the 1960's and 70's. As a result, one cannot swap tubes out like in the old days. So please use the following specified tubes (valves) when the amp is taken to a service center. For Spider Valve series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7B China for pre-amps. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched pair), with the base cup bottom. 5881WXT Sovtek (matched quartet), with the base cup bottom for the HD-100 and HD100 MkII. For the Alchemist series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix low microphonic for V1-3 pre-amp positions. 12AX7AC5HG Ruby Tube HG-High Gain for V4. 12AX7B China for V5. 6L6GCMSTR Ruby Tube (matched pair) power amp. For the DT50 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT50 pre-amps. EL34EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. For the DT25 series amps use the following specified tubes, 12AX7EH Electro-Harmonix approved for the DT25 pre-amps. EL84EH Electro-Harmonix (matched pairs) for the power amps. Visit your local Line 6 Service Center for servicing a tube amp, as these have High Voltage Shock Hazards. Product Repair Si vous avez des problèmes avec un des amplis Line 6, vérifiez les points suivants avant de retourner l’ampli. J’ai des changements de son si je joue à un volume très fort. Pourquoi ? Laissez tous les boutons sur 100% excepte le Master Volume pour assurer que le bouton ne tourne pas à la position courante mais à la position du preset. Démarrez un preset pour assurer le ton est le propre. Presque rien ne se passe si je tourne le Master Volume passe 6, pourquoi ? C’est à cause du potentiomètre installé dans les amplis Line 6. On pouvait installer un potentiomètre audio qui ne changerait pas le volume. Line 6 a essayé d’installer des potentiomètres audio mais les joueurs ne l’ont pas aimé. Dépannage de volume et signal : Éteignez les autres contrôles volumes comme les potentiomètres Volume Trim. Assurez qu’il n’y en a pas du débris dans les jacks CAT-5 ou entrée. Débranchez tous les autres appareils de la chaine audio aussi bien que tous les câbles CAT-5. Utilisez un câble que vous savez qu’il fonctionne directement dans l’entrée, contournant les effets. Assurez-vous que la guitare ou basse produit un signal. Essayez un autre instrument que vous savez fonctionne. Vérifiez tous les jacks d’entrée et sortie. Essayez l’instrument avec autres micros pour vérifier que ce n’est pas un micro défectueux. Vérifiez les câbles blanc et noir ou rouges connectés au haut-parleur. Vérifiez la sortie du haut-parleur du ampli est branché correctement. Vérifiez la boucle d’effets, si vous ne recevez aucun signal, branchez le dans le RETURN. Avec une source dans l’entrée, branchez le SEND dans le Line In d’un autre appareil pour vérifier le signal. Dépannage hochet et ton : Vérifiez si un des boutons et collé. Toutes les vis doivent être serrées. Assurez vous qu’il n y en a aucun objet étranger dans haut-parleurs. Est-ce que les contrôles sur l’ampli Line 6 sont passifs ou actives ? Et ou est le niveau « flat » ? Tous les modèles sont différents et les contrôles changent pour chaque modèle. La plupart des amplis à tubes sont passives. Le ton des amplis Line 6 sont conçus pour se comporter exactement comme l’ampli modelé. Quelques modèles sont très près de « flat » sur B-01, M-10 et T-0 mais c’est différent pour chaque modèle. Dépannage alimentation: Assurez-vous qu’il y en a assez de courant pour l’ampli. Vérifiez lé prise de courant. Vérifiez le câble et les connecteurs. Dépannage des amplis à lampes : Vérifiez que le tube est bien assis dans la douille. Si le tube fait des sons popping avec de la lumière intermittente. Vous devez remplacer le tube. S’il y en a de gelée blanche dans le tube, vous devez le remplacer. Si le son sonne c’est possible qu’un des tubes est défectueux, remplacez les tubes individuellement. Remplacement des tubes : Remplacez les tubes tous les 12 à 24 mois selon l’usage. Et laissez vérifier/ajuster le Bias d’un centre service Line 6 autorisé. Les tubes de préampli doivent uniquement être changés s’ils sont microphoniques endommagés ou bruyant. Si vous avez des problèmes après toutes ces suggestions, veuillez visiter un centre service Line 6 s.v.p. mais n’oubliez pas la preuve d’achat si vous êtes dans les 12 mois de garantie. Réparation des produits Sollten Sie Probleme mit Ihrem Line 6 Verstärker haben, dann überprüfen Sie bitte erste die Folgenden Punkte bevor Sie sich an ein Line 6 Service Center wenden: Ich kann Ton/Lautstärkeänderungen feststellen wobald ich sehr laut spiele, woher kommen diese? Stellen Sie die Knöpfe, abgesehen vom Master Volume auf 100% um sicherzustellen, dass diese sich nicht zur derzeitigen Position bewegen sondern auf der Position des Presets bleiben. Starten Sie dann ein Preset um zu überprüfen ob der Ton der des Presets und nicht der der derzeitigen Position des Knopfes. Mein Master Volume verändert die Lautstärke beinahe nicht nach 6, warum? Dies liegt am installierten Potentiometer, Line 6 hat in frühen Modellen mal einen Audio Potentiometer ausgetestet aber den Spieler gefiel dieser nicht. Lautstärke und Signalproblembehebung: Schalten Sie andere Lautstärkeregler ab (Trim Pots zum Beispiel). Stellen Sie sicher, dass kein Dreck im CAT-5 Eingang oder anderen Jacks ist. Entfernen Sie alle anderen Geräte und Cat-5 Kabel aus der Kette. Benutzen Sie ein Kabel, von dem Sie wissen dass es funktioniert und schließen Sie es direkt zwiscen Gerät und Instrument, umgehen Sie so alle zusätzlichen Effekte. Stellen Sie sicher, dass Ihr Isntrument ein Signal abgibt. Versuchen Sie falls möglich ein anderes Instrument von dem Sie wissen, dass es funktioniert. Versuchen Sie unterschiedliche Tonabnehmereinstellungen. Stellen Sie sicher, dass das weiße sowie das schwarze bzw. rote Kabel korrekt an den Lautsprecher angeschlossen sind. Überprüfen Sie außerdem den jack des Lautsprechers. Überprüfen Sie den Effects Loop, falls vorhanden. Wenn Sie kein Signal bekommen, dann versuchen Sie diesen in den RETURN zu stecken um zu sehen ob Sie ein Signal bekommen. Genauso sollten Sie auch den SEND in ein anderes LINE IN Gerät stecken. Ton und Rassel Probleme: Überprüfen Sie alle Knöpfe um zu sehen ob einer feststeckt. Überprüfen Sie ob alle Schrauben fest angezogen sind. Stellen Sie sicher, dass keine unerwünschten Objekte im Kautsprecher sind. Ist die Tonsteuerung aktiv oder passiv? Und wo ist die flach Einstellung? Jedes Modell ist unterschiedlich und die Steruerung des Verstärkers verhält sich so wie die des modellierten Verstärkers. Manche Modelle sind sehr flach, wenn sie auf B-01, M-10 und T-01 eingestellt sind, dies trifft aber nicht unbedingt zu da dies auch unterschiedlich ist zwischen den verschiedenen Modellen. Röhrenverstärker Problemlösung: Stellen Sie sicher, dass die Röhren fest im Sockel sitzen. Sollten die Röhren ein Poppen machen und dazu unterbrochen leuchten, dann ist diese kaputt und muss ersetzt werden. Falls weißer Frost in der Röhre ist, dann hat diese en Loch und muss ebenfalls ersetzt werden. Sollte ein Röhre klingeln, könnte es sich auch um eine kaputte Röhre handeln. Ersetzen Sie dann die Röhren einzeln um festzustellen, welche kaputt ist. Röhren ersetzen: Lassen Sie Röhren immer mit passenden Sets alle 12 bis 24 Monate je nach Nutzung ersetzen und lassen Sie den Bias von einem autorisierten Line 6 Service Center überprüfen bzw. anpassen. Vorverstärker Röhren brauchen erst dann ersetzt zu wernden, wenn sie mikrofonisch oder rauschend klingen bzw. beschädigt sind. Sollten Sie dann immernoch Probleme mit dem Verstärker haben besuchen Sie bitte ein Line 6 Service Center. Vergessen Sie aber nicht den Kaufbeleg falls Sie sich noch in den 12 Monaten der Garantie befinden. Produktreparatur
  15. ceaumiranda

    Broken knob

    Hello guys, first post here :) , 1 year ago i bought a used Pod hd (bean), it had a broken headphone input (which i already fixed ^_^ ) and a broken knob ( the one that has a number 2 on the right side). What kind of encoder/knob is that one? there are different types and I don't want to break anything or make it worse,I'd appreciate any help. Thanks.
  16. Received my helix under a week ago. And I LOVE the sounds so far. Lots of patches made and downloaded. Really love the ones I got from Glenn Delaune. I find myself constantly worried I'm going to break it or wear out one of the inputs or something. I see the occasional thread on people who have joysticks or exp pedals that have broken. Is this really that common?? I guess what I'm asking is this--how durable have you found your Helix to be? Am I being silly with treating it like a baby bird? I bought a case for it from BOSS that's pretty good. If that means anything. Thanks everyone!
  17. Device: POD HD500X Hi all, hopefully you can help me out. I've recently picked the guitar back up and when I started to use my effects board I found that the foot switches are not performing the correct operations My current foot switch operation mode is ABCD. When i have been pressing down onto FS8 to change patch, it seems to be turning on and off effects instead. after plugging into the edit program on my pc i have seen that FS8 is activating effects placed on FS4. FS4 does not perform any opperations at all. Does the button on FS4 need to be replaced to fix this, or both bottons? Thanks.
  18. Hello, wondering if any of you have had a similiar issue. Today I fired my rig up that has been working perfectly for years, when I flipped my pack on, a super loud shrieking oscillation overloaded the input of my axe fx. All lights to red solid constantly. Tried a different pack, same deal. Super loud distortion overloading the input. Tried to come out of the aux output 1/4" instead of the main out 1/4". Same distortion. Restarted unit, exercised 1/4" jacks, tried multiple cables and always the same thing. When guitar is plugged straight into axe fx with cable it sounds normal, which is leading me to believe my relay receiver is shot as I don't believe both packs just died. Has anyone else encountered this or have an idea what may be going on? I need a wireless so if anyone has insight towards how much this may cost to get serviced/how long, or if I'm better off just buying a new setup. Thanks!!
  19. My M9's record footswitch seems to have a habit of turning itself on. Whether I'm activating another pedal or turning on a separate preset, it would just start recording a new loop or turn on the reverb I have set to it. It's quite annoying and I can't use it anymore. I've tried looking at the footswitches inside, and one of the springs was a little weird. I switch the little screws that pushes and activates the switch for the record and stop switches, and the problem was moved to the stop switch. I decided to temporarily switch the bad screw/spring to the tap tempo so I can still use it as a looper, but the problem came back to the record after 10 minutes of playing! I also found that the footswitch itself doesn't click like the others do when you press it. Anyone have any ideas?
  20. Help needed! Firmware 2.11. Brand new unit. Reason for posting is that I can't find this problem described anywhere else on the internet. Been programming on helix (using out of the box 2.01) for an upcoming tour and tech rehearsal for the last few days. Solid 8 hour sessions of tone finding, each day. Zero problems. I had my guitar in the Guitar In, L/Mono 1/4" to amp, Send 1 to Powered Monitors. Pretty standard, nothing too strenuous. Randomly, this clicking starts coming through my amp. Very quietly. Then disappears. About 10 minutes later it has overtaken the entire output board and no signal is heard from the guitar. [uPDATE: even through the USB outs... which have not been an issue for me as I only need the unit for live mainly, but worth seeing if the problem was there, too... which it is!] I've tried every combination of things to find a solution - every jack cable in every jack in and out... every xlr cable in each output... this click is everywhere and no sound is coming through from the signal chain that's loaded. I even tried updating to 2.11, which didnt work. So I tried a rollback to 2.01, 2.00... but to no avail. The click starts during the loading screen, about halfway through (time wise). It sounds like a digital sample rate mess up somewhere in the deep dark internals... Any help I would be so unbelievably grateful for!!! Thank you!
  21. A few months past the warranty expiry and it quit working. The lights around the volume knob light up in any one of several configurations when I turn it on. Bluetooth is dark and unresponsive. Tone and tap are dark. I can hear it turn on with the normal "click" through the speaker but nothing works. I've tried the factory reset, no change. Anybody else have this happen? Any clues?
  22. Hi there Line6 Community, I'm having a first time issue with my Line 6 LD175 Bass Amp. I've owned now 2nd hand for 4 Years with Zero issues when last night at rehearsal it started making a popping sound randomly (for 20 seconds) then it shut down. When you turn the unit back on it quickly cycles, flickers then the LED's go out. The amp doesn't produce any sound or anything (just the odd crack or pop). I pulled the chassis out just to have a quick look to see if it was something obvious but I couldn't see anything other than I noticed when you power the unit it and it goes out the Transformer starts making a loud continuous hum? Could it need a transformer replacement? I've factory rebooted it with zero success. I have a quick 30 second video to show you if you need. Any guru's out there who can pinpoint the issue or suggest the problem would be greatly appreciated! Thanks,
  23. Hey! This is the first time I've posted on here, so hopefully I do it right lol. I have a POD HD 500 that I'm having issues with. I got it slightly used as a gift, so it doesn't have any warranty . I (relatively) recently broke the power input on it; the center pin pulled out with the power cable. I took it to a friend of mine so he could fix it for me, because I'm not great at soldering, and he got the new power jack installed, but it won't power up :(. The soldering job looks kind of clean, but I really wouldn't know. Everything looks fine to me, except there's a little red thing on the inside of mine, next to the new power jack thats different from the one thats in the one that I borrowed until mine got fixed. Was hoping to get this figured out soon, its been broken for about a month and a half. If anyone can help me figure this out, please do! I've attached a few pictures. The first is the little red thing I was talking about, in the working POD. The second picture, the little red thing, in the broken POD. As you can see, the one in the working POD significantly smaller than the one in the broken POD. The last picture was something that worried me about the soldering on the power jack. I don't think you can tell from the picture, but around each pole piece (or whatever you're supposed to solder on the replacement part) there is some black residue. I am really hoping the issue isn't here, because I'm pretty sure that means its ruined permanently. PLEASE HELP!!! :unsure: :unsure: :unsure:
  24. I had an issue with my HD500 this weekend and wanted to get some opinions. I was rehearsing for a gig this weekend and all of a sudden my HD500 starting rebooting. It would reboot, then come up to the preset screen and stay on anywhere from 10-20 seconds to maybe a minute at the most before rebooting again. At this point I had to leave the house and got back about 20 min later. I plugged the HD500 back up holding the left arrow button to do a global reset. It would boot up to the Line 6 logo screen then automatically reboot. It never got past the Line 6 logo. So then I booted into safe mode and reflashed the firmware. When I rebooted it again I got the same thing, it wouldn't get past the Line 6 logo. I'm in a bit of a panic at this point because I have a show the next day and need my HD500! Luckily a friend of mine also has one and let me borrow his. I go to get it and I'm back in maybe an hour and a half. I decided to boot up my HD500 again just to see if there's any change. Low and behold it boots up like nothing is wrong. I ended up using the HD500 I borrowed just in case, but I haven't been able to reproduce the problem with mine. I'm glad it's working now, but I'm nervous about it acting up at a gig. The only other time I've had an issue with my unit was about a month ago right before a gig it reboot on it's own. But it came right back up and no further problems until this weekend, I've got it sitting on my desk at work today and I'm going to try leaving it on all day periodically changing patches just to see if it acts up again. Has anyone else had this happen intermittently like this? I don't want to have to replace it, but I have to know I can count on it. If it's relevant I bought it new at the end of 2010. Thanks!
  25. As the title says, when I select an amp model and then begin to either change the drive or bass settings, the setting I put seems to be affecting the amp model selector - ie if I choose the 'metal' channel and start turning the gain to 9 o clock, 'Class A' is being selected on the amp models. This hasn't happened before, and it's incredibly annoying. Is there a way for this to be fixed?
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