mkornell

How is your MIDI cabling arrangement? If you use a MIDI interface, you should be able to program it to filter out the unwanted CC64s. If you're just using straight cabling, pick up a small interface (http://motu.com/products/midi/lite e.g.)

Check your cabling. The Helix has the send and return for each loop on a side by side layout instead of an top/bottom arrangement. If that's not the problem, check that the loops are set for instrument level in global settings. And also check the send/return levels in your patch. If all that checks out, I'm out of ideas. I run pedals in all 4 of my loops, so I know it is doable.

I don't have a VL, but I have my Helix send MIDI to other outboard pedals. It is very easy to do. I recently looked at the MIDI section of the VL3 manual - you should be able to do anything you want without any issues.

Electro-Harmonix Mel9 in an FX loop.

Can't do it the way I think you want to do it. The only way to set the Helix's tempo is via MIDI. You can either slave the Helix's MIDI clock to an external MIDI clock source (or v/v - use the Helix as the master) or send CC#64 "tap" messages to the Helix.

The Helix (all versions) MIDI outs are _not_ powered. Dunno about the others, but I'd be surprised if they were.

While you can't bank up/down, you can directly to to a specific preset via MIDI command. What is the use case?

Lots of threads on that topic. But a few options get regularly mentioned. AKG, Sony, Sennheiser seem popular. As do Beyerdynamic, which is what I have - a set each of DT-770s and DT-990s, together coming in under your price ceiling. If I had to pick from the two, it'd be the DT-990s. Slightly more accurate reproduction of sound coming through a good quality PA system, probably due to their open backs. The DT-770s might be slightly better in a studio environment, slightly more nuanced sound presentation. And by slightly, I mean very slightly. Both are great choices.

To get the Helix to take input from USB channels and route it to different outputs, you need to make a patch to facilitate that. Create a patch with two paths. Path 1, set the input source as USB 1/2, output block to XLR. Path 2 input from USB 3/4, output to 1/4". Then in Reaper, you can set the routing to USB 1/2 or 3/4 for the desired monitor path.

I have this copied down. Unfortunately, I didn't record where it came from and Google isn't giving up the source. So apologies to to original author. <QUOTE> I was after a quick and easy way to make a single coil sound like a humbucker so I used 3 Parametric EQ's in a line with settings from the Boss EQ-20 manual. It fattens up quite nicely. EQ 1 Low Freq 30hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 200hz, Gain 9db High Freq 1.6Khz, Gain 9db EQ 2 Low Freq 60hz, Gain 3db Mid Freq 400hz, Gain 0db High Freq 3.2Khz, Gain 6db EQ 3 Low Freq 120hz, Gain 6db Mid Freq 800hz, Gain 9db High Freq 6.4Khz, Gain -9db High Cut 12.8Khz Level -6db (All Q settings 0.7) For the reverse (That is Humbucker to Single Coil) this gets in the ball park: EQ 1 Low Freq 30hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 200hz, Gain -12db High Freq 1.6Khz, Gain -9db EQ 2 Low Freq 60hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 400hz, Gain -3db High Freq 3.2Khz, Gain -12db EQ 3 Low Freq 120hz, Gain -3db Mid Freq 800hz, Gain -6db High Freq 6.4Khz, Gain 9db EQ 4 Low Freq N/A (Set to 0db) Mid Freq N/A (Set to 0db) High Freq 12.8Khz, Gain 12db IOW A 120Hz -3 dB B 200Hz -12dB C 400Hz -3 dB A 800Hz -6 dB B 1600Hz -9 dB C 3200Hz -12 dB A 6400Hz +9 dB B 12800Hz +12 dB </QUOTE>

Yeah, sounds like a a bad microswitch due to wear and tear. When you step on a footswitch, it pushes a plunger down onto a microswitch on a circuit board inside the unit. The behaviour you describe is a classic failure mode for those little things. If your Helix is still in warranty, you should be able to get it fixed for free. If not, any competent guitar service shop could replace it. (And if they can't, they're not competent.) And if you're handy with a soldering iron, the DIY route is an option. Over 10 years, I had to replace 7 or 8 of these microswitches on a previous MFX unit. The bulk of the work lies in disassembling and reassembling the unit. The work with the soldering iron takes about 20 seconds.

Lasers. That's all I have to say about that.

If you are willing to lean over mid song to play a synth line on a keyboard, why would the keyboard need to go through the Helix? I mean, if the keyboard has. Good synth patch, use it! But apart from that, any parameter on any block on the Helix can be controlled through MIDI. You could, for example, use keyboard to control the note parameters on a 4 Note OSC block. Which would be the way I'd approach using a keyboard to play a synth line on a Helix. (But I always come back to thinking that's what a keyboard is meant to do, why does the Helix need to be involved?)

Yes to both questions. Set the RC300 up in one of the Helix FX loops and then you can drop it in the chain in any position you like.

There is. In the last update, an "Autoswell" effect was added. In addition, two delays were added that have Autoswell incorporated. They trigger a bit differently than the Slow Gear but with a bit of tweaking, they are quite effective.