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mkornell

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Everything posted by mkornell

  1. How is your MIDI cabling arrangement? If you use a MIDI interface, you should be able to program it to filter out the unwanted CC64s. If you're just using straight cabling, pick up a small interface (http://motu.com/products/midi/lite e.g.)
  2. Check your cabling. The Helix has the send and return for each loop on a side by side layout instead of an top/bottom arrangement. If that's not the problem, check that the loops are set for instrument level in global settings. And also check the send/return levels in your patch. If all that checks out, I'm out of ideas. I run pedals in all 4 of my loops, so I know it is doable.
  3. I don't have a VL, but I have my Helix send MIDI to other outboard pedals. It is very easy to do. I recently looked at the MIDI section of the VL3 manual - you should be able to do anything you want without any issues.
  4. Can't do it the way I think you want to do it. The only way to set the Helix's tempo is via MIDI. You can either slave the Helix's MIDI clock to an external MIDI clock source (or v/v - use the Helix as the master) or send CC#64 "tap" messages to the Helix.
  5. The Helix (all versions) MIDI outs are _not_ powered. Dunno about the others, but I'd be surprised if they were.
  6. While you can't bank up/down, you can directly to to a specific preset via MIDI command. What is the use case?
  7. Lots of threads on that topic. But a few options get regularly mentioned. AKG, Sony, Sennheiser seem popular. As do Beyerdynamic, which is what I have - a set each of DT-770s and DT-990s, together coming in under your price ceiling. If I had to pick from the two, it'd be the DT-990s. Slightly more accurate reproduction of sound coming through a good quality PA system, probably due to their open backs. The DT-770s might be slightly better in a studio environment, slightly more nuanced sound presentation. And by slightly, I mean very slightly. Both are great choices.
  8. To get the Helix to take input from USB channels and route it to different outputs, you need to make a patch to facilitate that. Create a patch with two paths. Path 1, set the input source as USB 1/2, output block to XLR. Path 2 input from USB 3/4, output to 1/4". Then in Reaper, you can set the routing to USB 1/2 or 3/4 for the desired monitor path.
  9. I have this copied down. Unfortunately, I didn't record where it came from and Google isn't giving up the source. So apologies to to original author. <QUOTE> I was after a quick and easy way to make a single coil sound like a humbucker so I used 3 Parametric EQ's in a line with settings from the Boss EQ-20 manual. It fattens up quite nicely. EQ 1 Low Freq 30hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 200hz, Gain 9db High Freq 1.6Khz, Gain 9db EQ 2 Low Freq 60hz, Gain 3db Mid Freq 400hz, Gain 0db High Freq 3.2Khz, Gain 6db EQ 3 Low Freq 120hz, Gain 6db Mid Freq 800hz, Gain 9db High Freq 6.4Khz, Gain -9db High Cut 12.8Khz Level -6db (All Q settings 0.7) For the reverse (That is Humbucker to Single Coil) this gets in the ball park: EQ 1 Low Freq 30hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 200hz, Gain -12db High Freq 1.6Khz, Gain -9db EQ 2 Low Freq 60hz, Gain 0db Mid Freq 400hz, Gain -3db High Freq 3.2Khz, Gain -12db EQ 3 Low Freq 120hz, Gain -3db Mid Freq 800hz, Gain -6db High Freq 6.4Khz, Gain 9db EQ 4 Low Freq N/A (Set to 0db) Mid Freq N/A (Set to 0db) High Freq 12.8Khz, Gain 12db IOW A 120Hz -3 dB B 200Hz -12dB C 400Hz -3 dB A 800Hz -6 dB B 1600Hz -9 dB C 3200Hz -12 dB A 6400Hz +9 dB B 12800Hz +12 dB </QUOTE>
  10. Yeah, sounds like a a bad microswitch due to wear and tear. When you step on a footswitch, it pushes a plunger down onto a microswitch on a circuit board inside the unit. The behaviour you describe is a classic failure mode for those little things. If your Helix is still in warranty, you should be able to get it fixed for free. If not, any competent guitar service shop could replace it. (And if they can't, they're not competent.) And if you're handy with a soldering iron, the DIY route is an option. Over 10 years, I had to replace 7 or 8 of these microswitches on a previous MFX unit. The bulk of the work lies in disassembling and reassembling the unit. The work with the soldering iron takes about 20 seconds.
  11. Lasers. That's all I have to say about that.
  12. If you are willing to lean over mid song to play a synth line on a keyboard, why would the keyboard need to go through the Helix? I mean, if the keyboard has. Good synth patch, use it! But apart from that, any parameter on any block on the Helix can be controlled through MIDI. You could, for example, use keyboard to control the note parameters on a 4 Note OSC block. Which would be the way I'd approach using a keyboard to play a synth line on a Helix. (But I always come back to thinking that's what a keyboard is meant to do, why does the Helix need to be involved?)
  13. Yes to both questions. Set the RC300 up in one of the Helix FX loops and then you can drop it in the chain in any position you like.
  14. There is. In the last update, an "Autoswell" effect was added. In addition, two delays were added that have Autoswell incorporated. They trigger a bit differently than the Slow Gear but with a bit of tweaking, they are quite effective.
  15. ^ yes, depends on usage scenario 🤘
  16. Yup. The only problem with that is that the fuzzes usually work best at low impedance settings. You want a low impedance when the fuzz is engaged and a high(er) impedance when it is being bypassed. And the Helix doesn't do it that way. There were a couple of threads here talking about that issue last week...
  17. I just picked up a Pigtronix looper and I'm planning on putting that on the output side of the Helix rather than in a loop. While I can see there's a minor advantage to having it in a loop -in that you can have the Helix add post-loop processing - the disadvantage is that it ties up a send/return and it has to be manually added to each preset you want to use it on. I'd rather have it be available on every preset and not tie up an FX loop. Plus, I can use the built-in looper if I need something other than at the end of the chain. I also use one of the x9 pedals (a Mel9) and I put that in an FX loop. That gives me a lot more flexibility in where I bring the sound in on ambient textures. And maybe a Key9 wouldn't be used in quite the same way, tho. I suppose it is very much up to what kind of music you do and how the pedals fit into that use.
  18. Imperfect - There is a lot of flexibility in how you set up MIDi on the Helix. In the specific scenario you mention, you could have it my way you like: - stomp on the Helix only toggles an effect (actually, could toggle multiple) on the Helix - stomp on Helix only sends MIDI command(s) to other gear - stomp on Helix does both And, you can vary the configuration from preset to preset.
  19. Helix sends output via USB, too. Direct to whichever DAW you use. No need to add extra D/A/D conversions and coloration/distortion that a preamp or recording interface may add.
  20. You had 28.8? Pure luxury! My first modem was 110/300. Had to manually push a switch before making a call to set the baud rate.
  21. You can assign any/all of the parameters in the 3 Note Gen to be controlled by MIDI CCs. Assign Osc 1 Note to be controlled by MIDI CC 50 (or whatever makes sense to you). Then sends a CC 50 with a value corresponding to the note you want. As CC values to from 0-127 and the Helix shows it as A, B, C, etc, you might need to experiment a bit to find out which CC values correspond to what the Helix expects, but that should be relatively easy to figure out. A bit more complex than just hooking up a keyboard controller but should be pretty achievable if your controller can be programmed.
  22. IIRC, Boss RC-300 also does quantise with MIDI sync.
  23. Not inside Native, no. But you can use reamping techniques to have a track run through your Helix Floor/Rack/LT to make those FX available in your DAW environment alongside Native.
  24. Have you tried dialing down the tone and volume controls on your guitar?
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