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Kilrahi last won the day on September 11 2019

Kilrahi had the most liked content!

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About Kilrahi

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  1. I'm kind of confused about what you're running into here. So are you trying to plug your guitar straight into the Firehawk, and then the Firehawk straight into an amp? You wouldn't generally want to use an amp block for that. Some questions I have: 1. What is your setup? Is it like I described above? 2. What did you do to remove the amp/cab block in the Firehawk?
  2. Kilrahi

    Two helix stomps

    It's VERY close. Technically a Helix LT can have technically have up to 32 blocks as long as you have the DSP for it. The HX Effects and HX Stomp can have a total of 12. Helix LT can have four discrete paths. HX Effects and Stomp pretty much have two (though you can stick the Stomp inside an HX Effects path, and due to its internal routing create a unique signal chain that really the LT couldn't do - not sure if it would be better, but it is definitely different). Your rig is more travel friendly (not that the LT is bad). It all just depends on what you want to do. I've never come anywhere close to needing 32 blocks. Bottom line, you will have a powerful rig.
  3. Kilrahi

    The future of Helix

    Which breaks my greasy heart. MP3s did a real number on our culture. Convinced us digital was inferior (when actually, it's that inferior digital is inferior). CDs blow the sound of vinyl out of the water. Always have and always will, but the story about the Emperor having no clothes is as true today as it was when first told.
  4. No, they're not. The Y is creating a hard right channel and another separate hard left. The other is creating two seperate paths of left AND right. They are not the same thing.
  5. It can seem that way, but after thinking about it not really. Isn't the A/B creating exact duplicate signals, while the other is hard panning them to the left and right?
  6. Additionally, it depends on how your acoustic instrument is amplified. A lot of people's acoustics have piezo pickups, which for some sound too duck like for them to enjoy. If you find yourself in that situation, then applying an acoustic IR (recorded in a studio setting with a microphone, not a piezo output) can reduce some of that quacking feel. It's all subjective though. I have a few instruments that I think their plugged in output is perfectly fine (granted they aren't piezo) and I never add IRs to those.
  7. Very true . . . and that would be hard for me to wrap my head around. I just meant in terms of the Helix application, it's pretty easy peasy.
  8. It used to for me too, but it's really not that complex. It's basically a process of knowing what command your Stomp wants, and sending THAT. So in your case you'd be buying a midi controller that can do CC values (Morningstar, DMC Micro) and assigning a value to each button. In your case, your midi controller would need to send the following to the Stomp: 1. CC #71, Value 2 (This would put your Stomp in preset mode). 2. CC #71, Value 3 (This would put your Stomp in snapshot mode). Simple as that.
  9. Random tidbit into my personal life here, but I'd never messed around with the Boss CS-1. Tonight I decided to mess around with both Helix models of it and holy lollipop. I get what people talk about when they say it colors it some, but I don't care - it sounded like it colored it in a good way to me. Thumbs up to this thread for causing me to explore new options, and in the legacy section no less.
  10. Yeah when I used the Stomp I never touched putting real pedals in the FX loop unless they were delay, modulation, or reverb. Distortion/compression pedals happily sat in front of it.
  11. There are a couple of bass amps modeled in the unit. My small 20 watt even came with a bass preset. I don't get the impression you should be trying to blow the doors off the walls with one of these things while connecting a bass, so if you were to use it with bass it should probably be for quieter bedroom scenarios.
  12. Q2. Just how "improved" the Helix sounds are to the Spider is open for debate. I've seen blind tests where people thought they knew and got it wrong. In my personal opinion, as a Helix owner, the Helix models are CLOSER to the amps they modeled, and it behaves MORE like a real amp. However, do I actually think the Helix sounds are objectively superior to the Spider? Uhhh . . . no. Does a Strat sound superior to a Les Paul? That's personal preference, both are sound. I think in this case, it's personal preference as well. To me the Helix's edge is its routing power eclipses the Spider, and as I said earlier, it has models and tonal options that make it behave far more like an old school amp that you might already love. That's why I own a Helix, and it's my favorite piece of gear. What's the perfect amp? That depends on where you fall. If you are an FRFR player, which is still the minority, the perfect amp might be the Powercab. The Spider V will work as a decent FRFR machine if you turn off all of the internal amps, cabs, and effects. There are a lot of great options out there though depending on budget. If you are a traditional tube amp player and you just don't think anything compares, then the perfect amp/cab depends on your real world favorite since you'll largely be using the Helix only for effects. Also, if that's your plan, I'd strongly advise you look at an HX Effects before getting a full Helix. Q3. I don't give a lollipop about tube amps. Tons of people would die for theirs. Ultimately it doesn't matter what I or them think . . . you need to test out a setup and see which tugs at your heart strings.
  13. I prefer the full range choice for a lot of the reasons given above. If done right, you have a much wider palette of sounds. Without a doubt, for acoustic guitar you want the full range sound. However, for a lot of posters it screwed with their heads. Classic cabs weren't full range, and we've gotten used to hearing that. Plus, players never gave them much thought. They chose the cab they loved, and plugged in. I saw many players grab the original Spider V, assume that there was no sculpting needed with the sound, and then be perplexed and confused by all the high sonic frequencies that came through it. They'd call the amp crap and move on. The classic mode is designed for those people who just want to plug and play. There's no shame in either approach. In my opinion, the classic mode is easier to dial in, but the full range takes it to another level in the right hands. Try it out and see which you prefer. It's always great to have options.
  14. Check out the preset given in this post:
  15. Line 6 clearly knew some people would worry it's a problem because right in their instructions they point out that the little MOFO WILL get hot. Don't worry about it though.
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