theElevators

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BCWALHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 Got this USB cable 5 years ago, and it's been absolutely fine all these years. It's also longer than what the Helix comes with, that way I connect it from my laptop to where my Helix is located on the floor several feet away. Pretty sure mine's 16 ft long.

If you suffer from GAS, rather than buying new gear, just completely re-do your signal chain with a new amp, that you hadn't used before. Just start completely from scratch. Do that. I do that with every new project that I do--just try to come up with something new and exciting from the "vast plethora" of bells and whistles. I'm really amused by the anger that 3.8 wasn't full of features like previous updates. Before Line 6 and Kemper started regularly updating the firmware, people would buy a piece of gear and use it as it was for years, with very rare exceptions whenever a bug needed to be fixed. I have 2006 Nord Electro 2 keyboard, for example... it came with firmware loaded onto it. I still use it with that original firmware. Ain't broke, no need to fix it. Meanwhile, Helix has gotten so much stuff since 2015. I think people have been spoiled, really. I was on 3.11 for the longest time because I didn't need anything new, as I was playing the same songs for which I had built my presets. But then I decided to recreate one of my Pod Go preset on the Helix, and realized that it didn't have that one reverb block that really made the song. So only then I finally updated my firmware to 3.7. And I have no desire to upgrade to 3.8 just for the sake of upgrading. I especially don't see the need for all these specific flavors of amps/distortions/cabinets. All amps can be tweaked to sound like anything you want, especially digital models of them. You can put compressors, EQ between amp and cab and create something that doesn't exist in the physical world.

The only thing that could have been a cool addition would be the "flux" feature. Or some kind of a timed engagement of a snapshot/effects. For example, you want to take a solo, so you press a button, walk up to the front of the stage, and the switching occurs after 3 seconds. Otherwise, the Helix has been a complete package as far as I'm concerned for a while. Time for Helix 2.0.

That's weird that the knob is not functional on both units. Check your case, maybe it's toot tight. I personally have no issues with any of my buttons and knobs after almost 5 years. Foot switches are a different story.

Pod Go has this automatic bypass of amp/cab for the "Amp out" jack. You can control whether you get the amp/cab on or off in global settings. It's pretty convenient. Helix does not have this, but it's so flexible, you can do anything you want.... On the Helix, as mentioned, you can route any signal chain to any output jack when you build the presets. You take a long chain and route everything except the last couple of blocks to 1/4" out, or Send 1/2, and route the complete chain to other jacks. There is no limit to what exactly you do. For example, you may want to route the amp, but not the cab to your Send 1, if you like. But I never bothered with the removal of the amp/cab in almost 5 years of using my Helix and 3 years of owning the Pod Go. I just take my whole stereo chain and send it to FOH. I also take the same exact chain (summed in mono) and run it through a power amp on stage, or a clean amp like Fender Twin. The reason I don't bother with removing the amp is that it's too much of a hassle, and the fact that I run my delays AFTER amp/cab. So if I were to bypass the amp/cab in the Helix, then I'd either be missing the delays, or the delays/reverb would sound like garbage if I now run them before the physical amp/cab--the balance and the EQ would be all messed up. So for all intents and purposes, the best way to do this is to keep your entire chain and run it into a clean amp for stage volume. I swear by my Mooer Baby Bomb 30W power amp going into a single 12" speaker. Sure some of the sounds may be too boomy now, but that's a sacrifice I'm willing to make. This setup is superior to any FRFR, because you actually get the familiar "combo amp on the floor next to you" feel.

When it crashed, was HX Edit running? If so, I have a ticket open with L6 regarding HX Edit crashing and causing the Helix to get stuck on a preset. But without it being connected to the computer (no USB cable), it doesn't crash or get stuck.

Also check the output level of your device. It may be clipping because the signal is too hot. When going to the PA, it's recommended to use the mic level. Also try factory presets to see if the issue also exists with them. Sometimes people tend to really dime their signal chain. I've seen this on several presets I downloaded from customsound--some were very harsh, loud and noisy.

No, unless you resort to MIDI trickery of sending a MIDI message from the Helix to itself....

use HX Edit. It takes seconds to assign an EXP pedal.

Yeah, that's phaser, alright!

https://www.youtube.com/@SteveSterlacci Is also an excellent channel. It has helped me the most, TBH I have some resources as well, going over mostly tricks and hacks: https://www.youtube.com/@accidentals_hacks after you figure out the workflow...

Well, first of all if you are on 2.5, you are around 5 years behind... The experience has been vastly improved with the encoders acting faster if you give it a spin. Also, you can do this a lot easier in HX Edit.

I am not sure what the issue is exactly. But I had an old TV that started making this clicking sound when turning on. With time it took several minutes for it to turn on while making clicking sounds, and eventually it stopped powering on at all. So it could be the capacitor (or something) that is ready to go. I got the whole motherboard of the TV replaced by Samsung service people, and 8 years later the TV works great.

You can use whatever you want. But... with so many buttons on the Helix, why do you need to add external ones... I personally do not want to step on the expression pedal to turn things on/off. So I specifically looked for and found ways to not have to use that toe switch on the EXP pedal. With so many buttons and ways to configure my snapshots, there is absolutely no need for me (at least) to use that toe switch.

From what version?

Make sure that HX Edit on your computer is for the same firmware version as on your device. If there's a mismatch, then it could show different weird things.

Also try different cables.

I still stand by my preference to use a real guitar cab and a small compact power amp -- Mooer Baby Bomb (30 watts) for stage volume. I have been doing this for about 3.5 years. I was initially afraid it would be too gritty, or not reliable enough... but nope! I even bought another one as a backup. For 90 USD (fraction of the cost of PowerStage), it's so simple. It's PLENTY loud for any bar gig to use as the only amp for the venue, and more than enough to play the stage of a big theater. Most of the time you don't want the amp on stage to overpower the PA sound, sound guys always ask you to turn yourself down... After I tried it on stage for the first time, I realized that I no longer needed my tube amp. I went and sold my Peavey Classic 30 and bought myself an Orange 12" cab. You can get something that is a lot lighter, no need for this "tonewood" that weighs like a bunch of bricks. You need to check the impedance of the speakers, otherwise Baby Bomb can start cutting out... that's the only caveat. But it works with Marshall 4x12s, or a single 12" speaker. Fender Twin cabinet has different impedance, so that will give you issues. I toured Europe running Helix into Baby Bomb into the cabinet of a Fender Deluxe and it sounded great. So now this tiny box is always in my Helix backpack. If the venue has a cab or an amp where I can tap into the cab, I use it. Some combo amps have the speaker hard-wired to it, on some you can simply disconnect the little 1/4" cable. That's the cable you plug into the output of the Baby Bomb. Otherwise I use the "return" of an amp, or as a last resort, just go into a very clean amp like the Fender Deluxe.

Take a 1/4" cable, put contact cleaner on the jack. In-out-in-out, twist, etc.

Try cleaning the jack with liquid DeoxIT. I've had MANY such issues on all sorts of amps, guitars, keyboards where the input jack would start cutting out. Cleaning it with this wonderful stuff always did the trick. Hopefully that will do it, and it's not some soldering issue inside. But you could take your Helix apart and check it out if this doesn't help... OR just keep using Return1, and forget about it. I think the auto-impedance doesn't work with it, but everything else, including the tuner will work.

Yes! in Command Center. You can assign what each button can do. And then after selection of a particular snapshot, you can assign what each button will do AFTER that snapshot is selected. So you can have one button cycle through as many snapshots as you need. This is a great feature for a smaller device.. But on the full Helix, I like to have each button be exactly its own dedicated snapshot, personally. I don't want to accidentally double-press and get the wrong sound. So here you go!

If something is missing from Pod Go, it's most likely due to limited resources that the device has. For example, all the poly effects require a lot of DSP on the regular Helix, so for a device that has less than 1/2 the horsepower, it's not possible. Unless Line 6 makes algorithm improvements... So just something to keep in mind why certain things are missing.

Search the forum. Lots of people are using ToneX One and are happy with it. Lots of choices for an amp-only modeller, including analog pedals. I owned Joyo American Sound, which used to cost 30 USD--it does amp in a box very well. Some people love Line 6, so they use HX Stomp with their HX Effects. You can just as easily use Pod Go, it has the same exact amp sounds as the Helix.

I tried doing a quick search, but couldn't find what exactly that is. Does it create a slap pattern from one note? If that's what you are referring to, then there is a great thing called "Harmony Delay". Harmony Delay takes a single note that you play, and adds 2 additional notes, each after a specified time interval. You have the typical controls like feedback, mix, panning. But if you specify the correct key, interval, and scale in this block, you can get it to play exactly two notes after you play your single note. If you put several Harmony Delays one after another, you can potentially come up with a whole passage that will be auto-generated from a single note that you play. It would be a lot of work and trial and error to make sure these two delays will generate the exact passage that you need. But there will not be any random slap pattern generated, as the old Boss board did. If I had a few hours, I could definitely come up with a preset that would for example generate the "Higher Ground" bass slap pattern from a single note... If you're interested, I'm showing how I use the Harmony Delay on guitar for one of the songs I had to play, it's a different application, but you will get the point.

Yeah it's pretty neat. I gave it a try as soon as it was introduced, but it didn't really work for my needs. I basically wanted a rhythm/lead tone I could control with my volume knob... but maybe because there was not a big volume difference when rolling off the volume knob, the lead sound would either not get activated, or would get stuck and not go back to rhythm. I still rely on the expression pedal to do my on-the-fly switching. Like to quickly turn on the delay to emphasize a note in the solo...