theElevators

You've answered your own question. Pod Go does not have every block due to limitations. If you want to have feedback onstage, do what I have been doing for a long time, long before the feedbacker was even available in the Helix:

No, presets cannot have custom LED colors. Only snapshots and stomps.

This has bee posted before. In summary: 1. when building presets, make sure your overall volume for a blank preset is around the same as the actual preset you are creating to avoid clipping. 2. set up XLR volume to be Mic level and disable the volume knob, so it's fixed. This will go to the FOH and will never change the level, because you don't want to confuse the sound guy by having different volume levels. 3. use the volume knob to only control 1/4" out which is your monitor mix, or in my case which is going to a power amp (Mooer Baby Bomb) into a 12" speaker cab.

Pretty sure you can use a dummy block that does nothing and bypass-assign it to a footswitch. Then set up the amp switching that will be like "opposite" to the switching of the dummy block. You can assign multiple blocks to one button, something can turn on, something turn off, you know? So the light should work correctly now.

So on the Helix you can split the main 2 paths to have a total of 4. A good way to run 2 signals is to use the main "guitar" input for the melody and a "return 1" for bass. Then you can use the pan block at the very end to pan whether the signal for the bass or melody side comes on the left/right or in the middle. And also do the same for the additional "wet" path. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "only repeats" coming through on the other side. You can take the delay and set the mix parameter at 100%, so you will be only hearing the repeats, and not the signal. Same for reverb. All you would need to do is split the signal path for the melody, add a delay block and then add panning exactly how you want it. Route all 3 paths so they all are individual in their last "pan/mix" block. Multi = the signal comes out of XLR, 1/4", headphones, etc. In my example the top path is for melody, middle for repeats, and bottom path for bass. You can mix all 3 however you want and pan it however you want. See the last free block that says "MULTI", where you can modify those. So hypothetically: melody is on the left, melody delay repeats are on the right, and bass is on the right.

Polytune would be sweet too. BTW, this is a page for the "legacy" Helix, not the Stadium.

As I've also mentioned. A few times for me a preset would become "corrupted". The only thing to do is to recreate it from scratch, then it would start behaving normally. You need to get to the bottom of this by recreating the preset, one block at at time, then try the experiment again. If a preset is corrupted, then expecting it to work properly is just a waste of time.

Try to save to USER 2 from the Helix and see if the same issue happens. Press "Save" on the Helix itself, select USER 2. This way you will see if the issue is with the Helix or HX Edit.

Do you have Snapshot Edits setting set to Recall BTW? I've had issues with parameter assignments completely not working when editing one preset, it would affect the other, etc. The issue for me was on 3.15, before I downgraded to 3.11. And now I'm on 3.7.10 -- no such issues for me there. Maybe it's a new bug with HX Edit on Mac or Windows. What happens if you save to a different setlist from within the Helix? Simply press save, and select a different setlist. Also, sometimes presets become corrupted as well. I've had this one preset that just had a different gain compared to the others. I checked one block at a time, recreated it, and the sound was back to normal. I haven't been able to pinpoint what exactly was different, but I had to basically recreate the preset from scratch, so it would start behaving correctly.

What version of the firmware are you on? Sounds like a recent bug from around 3.15. If you haven't updated your HX Edit / Firmware, you should do that. This sounds like an HX Edit bug!

I'm sure there will be software updates for the next 5 years at least! I'm more worried about HX Edit not working on future versions of Mac OS, rather than the Helix not having some esoteric glitchy fuzz effect. But I'm sure there are workaround for those situations as well. Worse comes to worst, I'll just keep using my old Mac Mini, which is currently hooked up to the TV to watch YouTube without ads. IMO, the Helix Floor/LT are a complete package, a mature product that to me does not need any other additions. I've gigged with them happily for the last 6 years, and will continue to do so. I'm considering buying another backup Helix, once the price drops further, and if I'll be playing more guitar again...

locked up, as in it won't turn? Try liquid DeoxIT. Pull it off, then add some so it drips down the shaft. Or if you have it in a can to spray, that should work as well. I've also used WD-40 for buttons/knobs of various devices that corroded and wouldn't press/turn. For example, my coffee maker, pool heater on/off switch... I'm not kidding, in a pinch, try it, but don't use too much. But DeoxIT is a safe product, that fixes all sorts of issues, and it's non-conductive, just like WD-40.

I personally build all my presets using HX Edit. If the knobs are not usable for you, then just use that. There is also pedal edit mode -- use the expression pedal/buttons to adjust parameters: So if you absolutely need to adjust something and you have no computer nearby, then use that. If the unit is several years old, the only thing is to have it shipped to Line 6 for a proper repair, Local repair shops that are authorized will not fix it properly, at least in my experience. So I'd just use the workarounds and leave it alone...

Sounds like this is after the 3.5 update where they improved the speed of knobs, where you can quickly turn it and get to the max, or slowly turn it and get a precise value. If the encoders are not working correctly, users have reported complete inability to adjust anything except jumping from min to max, and nothing in-between. "Encoder ballistics have been drastically improved. For example, tonestack values can go from 0.0 to 10.0 with one turn"

Yes, there is certain latency involved, the more effects you have in your chain. That is how it is. I've used many "max'ed out" presets with a wireless, which adds 7ms, and did not suffer. In terms of overall latency, I do think that theoretically, if you have 2 DSP chips running the same signal path as the single-DSP chip, the latency will be more. But I have not bothered with that test. So, when you enable "gapless switching", with your minimal signal chain, you may have lower latency. Every DSP chip in theory should add on to the digital latency.

I find that volume boost doesn't always achieve perceived loudness. I prefer my own method of adding an 10-band EQ right before the speaker cabinet and boosting 2K frequency from 6--10 db. That's my own method, which I've used for around 10 years. The frequency is not necessarily pleasant, but very harsh and noticeable. So when I do this, my solos cut through. I have a rundown of one of my presets that uses this EQ trick. See link in the video description to hear what it sounded like live. Another method outlined by @rd2rk also works. I sometimes I need to boost my solo sound for certain sections, so I do the same in addition to the EQ.

It looks more robust on the Stadium. I think the main thing that caused breaking on the LT is stepping on the pedal to switch between EXP 1/ EXP 2. I personally avoid doing that and have never had an issue with my 6 year-old LT. There are ways to switch on the wah without stomping on the pedal by using the percentage engagement, or to have the wah enabled in certain snapshots only. While it's a workaround, I personally prefer these methods to turn on/off wah as needed. find that the EXP pedal always requires too much force to accomplish the switching, and it's a lot easier to do what I described, to me at least. I even found a way to disable the switching all together for live use by connecting a short 1/4" cable from the external pedal jack to one of the send jacks so the switching is disabled, thus short-circuiting it and having Helix think that EXP 2 is connected (while it's not)--so the switching is disabled. I never had a use case to need to switch between the two expression modes for my very involved presets. In some presets I used the same expression pedal to control different things depending on which snapshot I'm in, for example: delay, reverb, wah, panning. All in one single preset.

You can give Line 6 a call. I've done that in the past after a horrible experience with the authorized repair shop. They opened a ticket for me over the phone, and I was able to add more detail to the ticket afterwards. The whole issue was swiftly resolved for me. So you may try that. I don't know your financial situation, but I got a second Helix shortly after buying an LT, to use as a backup. Every serious musician must always have a backup for such situations. Good news is that the LT is pretty inexpensive nowadays... In terms of reliability of an LT, in my experience the unit is quite solid. I bought a used unit and the expression pedal is working fine after 6 years. I do not stomp on it, however, meaning I do not use the footswitch to change between EXP 1/2. That may explain why my pedal is still intact. If it ever broke, I'd take the unit apart, remove the pedal and velcro a small expression pedal in its place.... In terms of the tap tempo button not working reliably, it's the tactile microswitch inside that gets gunked up. You need to have these microswitches cleaned with DeoxIT from time to time.

If you have completely different guitars with completely different outputs, then the only way to make them all sound the same is to use an EQ to compensate for the differences. That's what ZZ Top tech did--he dialed in different EQ patches, so every guitar sounds like Pearly Gates. In practice, it's a good idea to use similar guitars, for example Strats/Telecasters, and compensate for some differences. Every guitar does its own thing. I find that the Helix is not as forgiving when it comes to these guitar differences, as a real analog tube amp would. In my case, I play gigs with 2 Brian May guitars and a Strat. Strat and one BM guitar have the same output level, but the other BM guitar has weaker output. I figured out how much I need to boost the signal for the weaker output guitar to make it match the others, and I do one of these: 1. If I decide that my main guitar will be the one with weaker outputs, I just add a gain block to boost the signal by 3 db in the beginning of the chain in every preset. For my backup guitar, I know where to put the volume knob, so the output would be the same. For example rather than putting the volume knob on "10", I'd have to put it on "9"--problem solved. 2. If I decide that my main guitar will be the one with the more powerful output and I'm on a wireless, then I don't have any gain block in the beginning of the chain (obviously), and in case I need to swap guitars, I can just boost the signal level on my Shure wireless unit. 3. Or I keep several copies of my presets: one for the weaker, the other one for the stronger guitars. They are all identical except the first gain block. 4. There is a way to create a preset that will work with several inputs. Watch my video to see how to get that to work. It all depends on your workflow, but it becomes a giant pain if you have to go through 20+ presets in one show, and you are deciding on a whim to use one guitar vs. the other one. You may want to invest in an external EQ pedal, since the Helix does not have such a thing as a "global gain/EQ".

I have the same issue on a Mac. One time somebody sent me a set list backup, and I actually crashed my Helix so it would not start when importing a set list. Never doing this again. What's worse is that I could only bring the Helix back to life with the help of a PC laptop. The Flash memory utility did not want to install/run on Mac. Wasted several hours on this ordeal. I have never had any issues when doing a full Helix backup backup/restore. Or when restoring certain set lists from the backup.

All digital processors today do this, except Kemper. Even the Helix, unless you enable gapless switching, where you sacrifice one of the DSPs. Line 6 Helix, Stomp, Pod Go have snapshots aka scenes, which allow you to have gapless switching within a preset. (Not sure how Kemper figured this out though, where you can switch presets and not have silence). The reason is that the preset needs to be loaded into memory. That is just how it is. You can tune your playing so that the gap is not as apparent. Or upgrade to use the Helix where there are snapshots that offer gapless sound switching.

I think the days of rack effect units are over. Or let's just say it's not so popular. There is no Headrush rack version, no Quad Cortex rack version, etc. I've seen a rig rundown for Megadeth, and they are on Quad Cortex, which are placed into drawers, and they manage. But then again, Line 6 released the Helix Rack later, after the Helix. So maybe it will happen. Who knows? I personally like how Fractal FM9 is laid out: you can use it as a "rack", because you can connect a remote to it: a 12 buttons, screens, etc.. That is the best of both worlds, IMO. My perfect processor would be something like an FM3: 3 buttons only, but with all the power of a full-blown unit. So I could take a small box to a recording session, or connect a pedalboard to it and expand on the number of switches. Oh well.

I don't think it's worth the trouble to replace the button. If it's bothering you so much, you can buy a white fine marker, re-trace where the lettering has faded. Use a marker like this maybe? https://www.amazon.com/LMMINBZ-Acrylic-Permanent-Waterproof-Painting/dp/B0D1YSW17D Wait a day. Then apply a thin layer of clear nail polish. wait a few hours, then reapply. Or some kind of a varnish. Honestly, it's cheap Chinese stuff, buttons are not going to last forever. I don't have that problem because I use a computer for editing most of the time on my Helix, and I don't need to press "Home" at all. Some people have acidic sweat. Good luck!

Is it rebuilding presets, by any chance? If not, return it, it's not right.

Yes it is possible. See my video, and pinned comment for the global settings to restore from. And feel free to subscribe, I have lots of useful hacks on my channel. Enjoy!