netabuse

So I bought a Line6 EX-1 from Amazon a while back, and the entire time I've had it, it's been almost useless. After using it for a while, it would invariably drift down from 0-100% to only go to like 0-65%. I adjusted it several times and made sure it was tightened and tried adjusting the start of the sweep, but no matter what, if I plugged it in and swept it from full up to full down, after anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, it would drift back to 80% or less, despite being full-toe down. Part of the problem is that the full sweep of the pedal doesn't map to the full sweep of the pot, just under 0.75%, so it's like if I do the sweep when I connect it, eventually the Helix realizes the value isn't the full range. The weird thing is it still does this no matter which end I make the "overage" at with the adjustable grub-screw, the toe-down or the heel-down. I took the entire assembly out and put it in a stomp box with a big knob, so when I plug it in, I can get the full sweep of the pot to calibrate it. It hasn't exhibited the issue since then. Looking at the components, it's one micro 20k pot, a plastic jack housing, and a small circuit board labeled 'beep.com' (or beepcon), all as one soldered unit in a big plastic housing with an unmarked metal baseplate (with rubber feet). Is this a fake pedal?

Is there repair inventory or are we all on our own if PCB's and jacks fail?

I did do a factory reset. Also I have exported this preset and imported it into another location, and it still affects the computer audio, which fizzes or digitally clips. I've also tried turning it off and back on again. (both computer and helix). It seems to only affect this preset. This preset is actually a copy of several other presets, where the only difference is the amp+cab. None of those have issues either.

With 3.7.0, if I am using my Helix LT as an audio interface, audio playback from the Mac gets garbled if and only if I select THIS patch. If I delete the amp, the sound is fixed. If I delete everything before the amp, the sound is fixed. This affects the digital audio-IN from the computer, not the monitor out from the Helix itself (i.e.: guitar/variax inputs run through the effects sound fine, but playback from the DAW is garbled.) The Clear Room.hlx

Thanks to psarkissian , my Variax adapter works great and I was able to go into Workbench HD and add custom instruments to my liking, Thanks!

While some of us are budgeting for the future, would you be able to tell us about how many hours of billable work go into an out-of-warranty 50,000-mile check-up, if the inspection includes replacing any one of the electronic parts? And while I know you guys can't see the future (or, at least, won't share it with us ;), I think the answer to this next question might shine light on the other "10-year lifespan" thread: Do you still perform out-of-warranty parts replacements for Gen1 Variax mainboards?

These days, I would not be surprised to people creating raspberry pi + DAC solutions that fit in the bay and run off 5v@2.4a and provide similar effects through custom IR's and midi-out (or just MIDI-out from a hexaphonic breakout board or a hotwired FTP board), once the current series of Variaxes end up obsolete. ...and I see this being more of a thing than it possibly would be for the old line, because the JTV/Standard line are still fully functional guitars otherwise, so they're worth keeping around. I also bet that we'll see a fully-Yamaha-branded Variax HX first.

EDIT: sorry, I missed wellsong’s comment. Their problem is not my problem. Do you mean remove any USB hub between the computer and the variax interface? ...or do you mean “remove all other USB hubs even if they are not between the computer and the variax interface”? ...because in my troubleshooting, the variax interface was always directly connected to the computer. (Though in Mac it is connected through an A to C female to male adapter.) and on win10, Monkey can see that the interface is connected, and can read the usb interface’s firmware version, and can tell when it is disconnected, but when connected, it only shows the interface, not the guitar.

I've created a Support ticket, Thanks. Finding another JTV-69 in Lake Placid blue is basically unobtanium, and I'm hoping this one can be made to work as designed.

The answer to that is evidently "no." Even with 4 bars of battery power, the guitar won't connect.

that was my first step..., Support verified that this bug exists and was already in their QA pipeline.

If any of the computers could see the variax, would I be saying that I had a problem? Of the two computers: one Mac running Catalina and one PC running Windows 10, neither could see it. Line 6 monkey 1.77 on win10 couldn’t see it, and nor could Workbench HD on either computer. Old Workbench can be made to run on windows 10, but it can’t see the variax either. Both computers see the USB adapter, and on Windows 10, Monkey can interrogate the adapter’s firmware, but does not list the connected variax in its devices or firmware. There’s no “gotcha” here; the variax just doesn’t show up. the only possible variable, and perhaps the only question is: does the guitar hide itself is the battery isn’t at 4 out of 4 ?

I'm trying to connect my new JTV-69 variax and while the computer sees the Variax USB adapter, and the USB adapter indicates (via the two green lights) that it sees the Variax, the computer doesn't see the Variax. I've tried multiple computers and versions of the software. As far as the computer is concerned, there's no Variax there. Up front: I am using the small black Variax USB adapter and included VDI cable The battery is fully charged (though by the end of troubleshooting it only had 3 dots) I have a TRS cable plugged in I have the volume turned up The lights are on on the Variax I have two lights on the Variax USB adapter I have tried both the included VDI cable and 2 separate Cat5/Cat6 cables I have checked with Line6 Monkey on a separate computer using all of the combinations of troubleshooting I have checked with the OLD Workbench on a separate computer I have repeatedly connected / restarted / removed battery; replaced battery I have wiggled and jiggled and swabbed and double-checked all the connectors. Everything is in-place. The Variax doesn't show up, not even in Monkey. I'm really not looking forward to returning this guitar, but the inability to use it with Workbench is a deal-breaker.

So I have a Line 6 EX 1 pedal connected, and I have the global setting EXP1 Position / EXP2 Position set to "global". Regardless of which pedal (EXP1/EXP2) I choose as my volume pedal, and which I choose as my whammy pedal, The volume pedal ALWAYS defaults to the value of its opposite pedal when switching between presets. If I go through all my presets and switch which pedal maps to volume, the volume state picks the OPPOSITE pedal.

My hope is that they can at least add the new amps/cabs and fuzzes. I would really, really like the acoustic sim. But even if they just took a page from the "8 bank" upgrade for HX and let us be more free-form with our banks, and get rid of the fixed amp/cab/eq/pedals and have just a blank slate, that alone would bring the Pod Go up to pace with the seriously-competitive updates in 3.0. There's times where what I really want from ES1/2 is Volume & Stereo Spread, or I'd want to run without an amp/cab and get Drive + 5 "direct to the board". Plus all the obvious and easy things like favorites/defaults and full usb midi out (which would be helped by having a 'blank slate' option) Also it would be nice if they fixed the bug where if I have "global position" for Expression 1 / 2 set, but have a patch that maps volume to Ex1 and another to Ex2, it's possible to have the position of 1 or 2 to apply to 2 or 1 even when switching between presets that have the same mapping.

I assume the poly pitch stuff is right out, including the acoustic and 12-string, so will we get a distortion and maybe the MIDI out?

I just got my Pod Go, connected it via USB-A->USB-C, and trying to record into Ableton Live gives me levels that never get above -20dB for a clean tone, and even with an amp dialed up to 10, never comes close to being "loud". (Yes, I have the volume pedal at '100'.) Switching to GarageBand and comparing the levels to any of Garageband's built-in "drummer" tracks is similarly low. Only when everything is dialed up to '10' and compressed, does the sound merely match the perceived volume of a simple drum track. Additionally, the clean channels (3/4) are low as well, and can't be boosted. This is with firmware 1.12 7a876bc1.