Brazzy

I don't have much to offer the OP in the search for the particular tone he's looking for, sorry.

Hahaha Some these posts crack me up, you know who you are. Seriously though, there's a whole bunch of good info here for people who are new to guitars. I've been playing around with modeling off and on for years now and have been coming here to read and get info about the "virtual pedal board" in hopes that I may better understand it. I've never really had good sound systems let alone guitars when I was younger and by the time I started to learn how to play guitar it was a real chore besides just trying to be musical, lol.

In light of my aforementioned, lol, I thank everyone who has ever made a post (good or bad) about their experiences with tweaking as it has helped me greatly over the years. Of course I'm still always learning while at the same time trying to maintain interest.

I'm still laughing at joel brown's comment about 67 "%" Hahahahaha. IMO the EQ's should've been in actual units of frequency, I feel this would've made the user experience much better.

I like the Global EQ but have not used it that much lately since the way I'm set up currently I'm using a computer and I don't reach down to the HD500 at all. That doesn't mean I won't be using it. What I've been doing is I place a studio eq at the end of my patch and this seems to help out greatly with getting good high gain tones usable for me to play around recording with RiffWorks. I also use the "No Equal" EQ and Compressor in RiffWorks to accent (boost) the signal even more. I saved that setting and labled it "BeatBuddy EQ".

In my patch I insert an FX Loop in which I have a BeatBuddy placed in both L & R Returns. I set the Mix at 50% and I'm good to go.

I should mess with the Global EQ to see if I can get one good setting that fits so I can free up a space in the chain but for now I'm good and having fun, keep in mind this is not a job for me I just have fun......for now, lol.

Lastly, I think the most important thing to keep in mind is to know when to quit experimenting with tweaks and play the dang guitar, lol.

Technically speaking yes it should work.

 

But, the Flextone cab might be FRFR (Full Range Flat Response) tuned. Meaning, sound response-wise, tuned to work with FRFR modeller amplifiers.

 

The DT25h is a guitar amp, not a FRFR modelling amp.

 

Bottom line- Yes you can connect a DT amp and Flextone cab and it will work. If it sounds good then, done! Maybe try the pair together before you buy.

Sounds like a very good point there, That thought didn't even enter my mind.

POD HD desktop converts the analog signal it receives at the guitar input into digital by utilizing the A/D converter onboard - I very much doubt the unit has 2 separate A/D converters for USB and SPDIF. For a DAW/computer to record the guitar signal (no matter dry or processed) the signal has to be digitized at some point, hence no way to avoid A/D conversion. Hence, it is not correct to call an A/D converted guitar signal "not truly dry". It is truly dry - the only difference is that one is "analog dry", the other is "digital dry", and both are "truly dry".

 

That's the A/D conversion referred to in the post with the "truly dry / not truly dry" discussions (the digital signal is converted back to analog to be routed to the L/R outs and headphones out only).

 

Both USB and SPDIF carry the digital signal so I guess the actual difference between the "dry over SPDIF" and "dry via L or R channel path over USB" is that the first is like as direct as possible in the POD HD and the second is passing through the amp sim / FX processing chain with all FX set to "no FX" or ie "bypassed", which may or may not affect the original quality of the already digitized dry guitar signal and also maybe affected by a potential crosstalk from the other channel path that has amp sim and FX turned ON. I don't know how significant or negligible this crosstalk is, or wether it is there or not but it may be there, potentially. Hope that helps clarify things, and definitely please feel free to correct me if I made a mistake anywhere in here :)

Sounds about right to me and I think you did a great job of explaining it without coloring it, lol. :)

OMG, wasn"t paying attention! Must have made a total NOOb-impression! :)

 

I hope my cab's still ok... hard to say as the old flextone died...

If you have a good "ohm meter" (VOM) you could go over the cab and it's wires and check everything to see what ohm readings you get.

I've been dealing with electrics for a long time but still look things up to be sure of myself, once one becomes overconfident mistakes start to be made. You know the old saying "Pride Goeth Before Downfall" right? hahaha It's was like one of the first things I was taught after I able to read, lol.

Thanks for the bump Brazzy. Hope it is as nice out where you are as it is hear in NC. We will be taking out my Suzuki BOSS out for a spin today. Can't believe it is this nice at the end of November.

You got it CipherHost. It's nice here in S. FL today. last week was spotty with the sun, showers and clouds but to me it's always warm no matter how cold it gets, lol, as for 40 yrs. I used to play all day out in the below freezing weather. Enjoy that beautiful ride you got there. I'm very familiar the Big Four, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha and Suzuki, in no particular order, lol.

Greetings, "Iknowathingortwo" (now that's a mouthfull :) )

 

French, dutch, german, english,... you name it, we speak it as being Belgian, thanks for the warm welcome!

It's highly appreciated.

 

It is indeed a line-6 cab, and as you stated there's a switch 4,8 16 ohm mono/stereo... switch.

It's one of the first, like the one in next link:

http://www.musicgoround.com/p/238860/used-line-6-4x12-slant-cab-guitar-speaker-cabinet-4-x-12

 

But heaven help, I don't understand all those technical terms...

I know when i bought it the seller told me the cab was 360Watts RMS, or 320 or 340, in any case it was over 300. :-)

 

So if I understand it correctly I have to choose the 4ohm position on the cab to use all 4 speakers?

Is it a good combination or is a 412 cab a lil too much for the dt25?

 

greetings

 

Liejp

 

Ps 1: Flemish is Dutch, only the pronunciation is totally different (like english and american)   :) :)

Ps 2: As i'm a law enforcer myself, I'm trying to keep it safe here every day! ;-)

This is a good thread and CypherHost had provided some great info. It's also a testament to "There is no stupid questions".

You should have no problem with that cab as long as it's good working order and the rated watts is more than your DT and that the Ohm output and speaker is matched.

Greetings Liejp, in Belgium!

P.S. This is what I read after I don't work with speakers and amps for a long time, lol.​

Series Vs. Parallel Wiring/How to wire speaker cabinets

I know this getting off the original subject a little, lol, but when I was 7 yrs. old I smoked a cigarette and I remember it tasted good. It's a funny story how I got that ciggie but I won't go into that. Back to the taste. I distinctly remember it tasted very good I tried inhaling but coughed and so I gently smoked it, lol. It had a liquor like taste. I didn't know how to describe it 'till 30 yrs. later, lol.

30 yrs. later I met someone who was very knowledgeable in the subject and I told him what I remembered and that I tried one of the recent cigarettes, the ones that had the new paper wrap that would prevent a cigarette from burning if it wasn't being smoked for a short length of time. The brand was the same it was just years later. So I pointed out to him that the old cigarettes tasted better than the newer cigarettes and that it was a major difference. The new ones were disgusting to me. I also said that maybe my taste buds were off or something although I have great smell and taste abilities.

After listening to me he said it's not you the cigarettes have changed and I'll tell you why. He said that in the year I smoked that first cigarette the cigarette company's put chocolate liquor, from the husk of the chocolate bean, in them to make them taste good. This got people hooked and the habit embedded. Then since the chocolate liquor has more value in cigars and other products some time later (years) they stopped putting it in the cigarettes to save money. Chocolate liquor is the solid or semiplastic food prepared by finely grinding cacao nibs.

I can't prove any of this but it made sense to me. Smoking never became a habit for me.

I believe that as soon as you connect the device through USB, the computer L6 audio driver takes all the control over the POD hardware monitoring level sent back directly through USB (before the signal going into the DAW, being processed and sent back following the ASIO protocol), leaving the POD master volume controlling only the headphones or monitors output level..

 

as soon as you disconnect the POD form USB, it should automatically take back again its complete control, otherwise would be annoying since you should probably re-boot the device to solve the issue, or remember to turn up the hardware monitoring level before disconnecting..

Good explanation of that "H" Thanks for the input on this.

Is there any setting i need to check? I thought the headphones were hardwired to the master out? I rolled back the version to see if it was firmware (still nothing) and then put it back to the latest (2.62?)

Sorry to hear you are having issues.

About the monitoring with headphones level. While connected via USB, open the Line 6 Audio MIDI Devices settings and check the level in the "input & recording" tab. It's at the bottom to the left.

When I record using a DAW I usually keep this level set low so that I'm hearing the DAW and not the Pod, since to my ears they mix if the monitor lever is at maximum. I keep it low so that when my DAW isn't open I am just able to hear the Pod. Also, I leave the Master volume knob at 50% I only turn to 100% when I want to listen to a recording at full pop.

I haven't checked to see if the headphone level is unaffected when not plugged in via USB. Maybe the level function is at maximum level when not plugged in via USB and is controlled by the Master volume knob.

They don't really come with a manual you need to download them, you'll figure it out. Good Luck Man.

I've been working on this for a few hours and no luck. I have my 5150 iii amp head and the pod hd pro utilizing the 4 cable method. I have verified that I have set it up correctly a million times. I have the effect loop on. The issue i have is, any effect put before the effects loop work fin, any effects after the loop I do not hear a thing.No delay, no reverb etc. This is driving me mad. I placed the effect loop before/after the mixer, boasted the level etc with no results.

 

Anybody else run into this issue, any insight would be much appreciated.

 

i will also add i have done the 4 cable method successfully with the digitech rp1000 for years with no problems, not sure what i am missing here.

 

cheers,

Question; How do you have the "mix" setting in the FX loop set?

If remember correctly I was right around 50%. If it's mixed 100% it's all FX Loop and nothing else. Not sure if what comes after is still mixed at 100%. I'll have to check it out again. Update: Just checked by putting a delay after the FX Loop with the drums on and they were effected.​ Maybe you do have an issue.

I was just using a BeatBuddy in my HD500's FX Loop and was at 50% with the FX Loop's mix and used the "return" level to adjust the drums level. Then I placed a Studio EQ after the FX Loop and it works great. Keep in mind with my set up I'm only going into the L and R FX Return with the drums and there's nothing plugged into the "Send".

Hope you get it fixed up!

Link to example of my patch > http://line6.com/customtone/tone/1452203/

Yeah, I caved.  F-U-LOLLIPOP-C-K.

 

I tore MF a new one yesterday.  I ordered this on 11-3.  I called my gear head and he said I was number 40 in line.  On the eleventh they finally corrected the shipping address (I want it to go to my office).  Apparently they cancelled the order instead of simply changing the shipping address.  Thanks TOM!  That threw me back to the end of the list, but I wasn't informed of this little development.  Kicked back once.  Kicked back a second time.  Then ncockerill above tells me of the 12/4 push back.  Now I'm starting to sweat because I have some gigs coming up.  I call Dalton at MF and he tells me I was number 7 in line.  Yesterday I log on to find out it was pushed back to the first of the year.  Said ciggie caving occurs.  I call and end up with John at MF for a one hour discussion.  He finds out that I am actually number 41 in line because of Tom's F-up way back on the eleventh.  Several hold times later, and one hour in to the conversation, I find out the truth.  I'm number 41.  Then I learned that they currently have 40 in stock.  Number 41 starts to sound really bad.

 

John will be calling me next week with an update.  If what he says holds true, my future MF purchases will be with him.

No wonder you caved in, all that mess with ordering?? Sheeeesh Don't they know when people order something they listen carefully to what is said?

On the positive note I really hope you stop smoking.

Just a suggestion but if you put the money you save from not buying cigarettes into something more positive, such as your son, it would surely be more rewarding. I remember doing the math and if you buy 2 packs a day the savings in one year can be in the thousands. In 3 years it could be close to 9 grand and that's at $4 dollars a pack and I know they are much more than that now. Take it from someone who's dad made me work hard starting at 6-7 years old and barely fed and watered me. I was skinny as a string bean for years, lol. It took a bad injury and many years later for me to go from 175 to 225 which was my minimum weight.

Good Luck with everything.

Hi There!

I was looking at these Liquid Foot Controllers. Read about it and see if it fits what you have in mind. They have videos on the site.

The post that I saw a while ago >> http://line6.com/support/topic/8939-bought-a-new-dt25-today-need-a-footswitch/?p=62144

I use an iPad with Line 6 Midi Mobilizer and record my moves. It works good for me here at home. All I do is record my settings by moving the knobs on the DT and I'm done, then hit playback. It even records all the knob movements I make and allows me to make some pretty funky tone shift swings, but I have to be on time with my playing, lol. I think the foot controllers is a better idea, not exactly cheap but I think they have a good warranty.

Forgive the pun, but you're comparing apples and oranges. If L6 had Apple's reach and resources, we wouldn't be having this conversation. They're just a few iThings shy of planting a flag, annexing Cupertino, CA, and becoming their own country ;). They release new products on a fairly regular schedule to a customer base that numbers in the tens of millions worldwide. Legions of the tech-obsessed pitch tents outside their stores days ahead of time...foregoing bathing, sustenance, and indoor plumbing...to buy a friggin' phone. Boggles the mind, but I digress. By comparison, the average schmuck walking the street has never heard of L6 or Helix. So who's gonna warehouse more product ahead of time?

 

Expecting the same kind of roll-out from a company the size of L6 will leave you chronically disappointed...its easier to find a pearl in a pig's ear.

LOL, such a good post from the big "C"...hahahahaaa

Try to be patient OP or move on to the iHelix. So far I'm happy with what I got so I may not get one for a long time.

I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for in sound but for the last 8 years or so I've played live using modeling either in amp form and now with the HD500X and I've encountered none of the limitations you're talking about.  In fact I just recently changed my rig so that I'm sending a direct line to the PA mixing board, and a 1/4" output to a powered monitor speaker onstage and I couldn't be happier with the result.  You're right in saying a monitor doesn't handle sound in the same way as a guitar cabinet.  Acoustically speaking it handles it MUCH better.

 

Guitar cabinets are designed to not be full range flat response (FRFR) speakers.  They're designed specifically to accentuate certain frequencies associated with electric guitars.  That's fine if all of your effects and mic'ing of the cabinet are done externally.  But a POD is a self-contained unit that provides a virtual signal chain, which includes a guitar cabinet and various mic's in various positions.  To push that through yet another limited range cabinet and mic after the completion of the signal chain only serves to color the sound further.

 

I understand if you're working a silent stage why in-ears would be necessary.  And for the most part in-ears provide a fairly flat and full range duplication of the POD's signal chain, unless it's colored by the person running the monitor mix.  If you're not running a silent stage as we do in my band, a decent FRFR powered speaker is  the best solution I've found for giving me a true representation of my guitar's tone mixed with the rest of the on stage instruments and voices and what it is sounding like to the audience once it all comes out of the PA.  Maybe I'm old school in this regard, but I expect all of the musicians in the band to be professionals and control their volumes and listen to how they're mixing with everyone else, not just listen to themselves.  And this is the problem I see with in-ears.

 

In-ears can easily decieve your impression of what the band sounds like overall.  Since in-ears are a separate mix from the FOH mix you have no idea what you're sounding like to the audience, and given the lack of skills I've witnessed in most people running a sound board, I'm in no hurry to trust the fate of the band's overall sound to them.

 

The simplest and best solution if you're having problems hearing your guitar attack is to have the offending parties who are too loud to grow up, be professional, control their volume relative to the rest of the band, and listen to the whole band and the part they play in it so that it sounds like a true band, and not a bunch of individuals pounding out noise that somewhat resembles a song.

 

While it's true there are many articles about tube amps being superior to modeled sound, I would hesitate to call them research.  True research would indicate they used a double-blind test, which they don't do.  They just depend on their own purely subjective opinion.  The question is, how are you going to compare a tube amp's open air output to an output from a POD that is simulating (at a minimum) a guitar cabinet and specific mic?  The POD outputs a studio-ready signal, the stand alone amp does not.  The only viable "researched" way to do this would be to record both the POD's recorded output and the tube amp's recorded output which duplicates the amp and mic'ing technique used on the POD, then have objective, independent listeners determine (without knowing which is which) what sounds best.  There a countless numbers of these type of double-blind tests on YouTube, and there is NO consistency in how people vote on which sound is tube and which is modeled.  Which tells you the "researched" articles you've seen are pretty much baseless and totallly subjective.  That's hardly science.

I think you just taught me some things I didn't know. Thanks!

Makes sense to me. I was thinking I might get the in ear monitors if I ever got serious with the pods in a live situation. It's still possible to play and have fun without them though.

Thanx 4 your reply but i think i already have done all , can u tell me more specificate about the the monkey and the licenced manager

Without the UX2's USB connected to your computer, open Monkey and in the pop up select UX2. Monkey should open up and now monkey will look for updates dor the UX2 even though your UX2 isn't connected.

Now make sure the drivers is sected by clicking on it and then click the Update button. After it downloads or directs you to the download page install the drivers. If you get a pop up asking you to allow the installation click allow in order for the installation to successfully install.

After the installation is fone you should be able to plug in your UX2, wait about 30 seconds and open Monkey to see if it registers. That's what I did.

I hope that helps

Added: After installing the driver and while Monkey is open click the other tab and click on License Manager. This is to make sure your computer and UX2 are authorized. You'll need to sign in again like you did with Monkey.

Sorry for the broken up response as I got busy while doing this post, lol.

I just had the same problem. I hooked up my UX2 to my Windows 10 laptop and nothing happened no lights at all. so I unplugged it and opened monkey then installed the driver then plugged it in and still nothing even though I thought I waited long enough for the driver to install. Then I opened monkey and it registered and the UX2 came alive. Then I made sure I ran the license manager. It works now.

I had similar symptoms with my DT50. I learned and put new original tubes in it, biased it to spec as close as I could and it ended up going back to Line 6 to get fixed. I created a thread on it quite a while ago.

You should call Line 6 techs.

My amp is not malfunctioning i only wanted to replace the tubes :).

The guys i bought the tubes from said that they consider 3mV difference very well matched tubes :(.

That's why i asked what are your guys opinions and experiances.

Im gonna experiment a bit with the original and JJ tubes to see if i can see a difference in sound and hum, i just wanted to see if it's dangerous to have 'unamatched' tubes in the amp, if it can lead to malfunctions.

Your right in that my amp must have been malfunctioning since I had some weird noise and pop and then intermittent sound loss. So when I put those new tubes in there that may have temporarily got things working but the real problem was still there.

Good Luck with your testing, If my memory serves me spaceatl has been using JJ tubes in his DT's for a long time now. I'm sticking with what Line 6 recommended since it works for me.

Try to let us know what you find out.

Oh crap, I misread this thread, lol. I missed the JJ part since the topic heading had EL in it. Oh well, lol.

To clarify on my end. I never used JJ tubes in my DT50. I bought what was advertised as ultra matched EH EL power Tubes for the DT50 and still had a very large mismatch. So I have to question wheater I was not getting the correct tubes even though I did as much as I could to get the original replacements. I seriously think I was sold tubes that were not as advertised, buyer beware.

To the original poster. I seriously recommend you let Line 6 fix your amp as this is what I did.

That's a good question. I posted my findings when I bought a pair of matched tubes. I'll dig up the post later. I had a similar mismatch if my memory serves me.

I put the matched set of tubes in my DT50 after I had an issue with the sound cutting out etc. After putting them in and biasing It worked, then shortly after that no sound again. I ended up having to send it in to Line 6 to get it fixed. Ultimately I wasted my money on those tubes, biasing tool, and my time.

I hope you get 'er fixed up this amp sounds fantastic when it's right and the one I got fixed has been working great. I'll be watching your thread too.

On another note, just recently I put an Electro Harmonix Tube EQ in the FX Loop of the my DT50HD and Peavey Valveking II 20 Mini Head and was really impressed with how they sound with those 2 extra tubes after the preamp.

My findings on the biasing, the following link should take you to the specific post:

http://line6.com/support/topic/6699-dt50hd-output-suddenly-went-silent-any-ideas-why-and-more/?do=findComment&comment=61241

It really depends what you like or what you need. For instance, when I want to practice I use a Jet City Picovalve and a JCA12S+ which totaled $270. This is a really bulletproof tube amp and sounds great when I run modeling through it. This way I don't use up my DT50HD's life.

I also have this cheap little stereo speaker cab with a little solid state stereo car amp that I threw together for practice, it actually kicks lollipop, lol. I spent $70 to put it together and I even made a rechargeable battery pack which will power it for hours (8 D Cell 10 amps), which I use to power some of my pedals, so it has a multi use not specific to this amp/cab combo.

I've found that if I power up my little Spider III 15 watt in test mode the modeling sounds great through it too. I think that amp was about $100 when I bought it in 2008. Still works great. Two of these would sound great for stereo from the Pod.

Electro Harmonix makes a pedal, I think it's called the 44 Mag and it might power your speaker cabinet. might be the cheapest and easiest thing to do in your case. Plus it's very compact.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDtDRfIUyv0

​

Hey all.  So instead of using my usual headphone setup, I was wondering about connecting this to a cab?  I have a guitar cab that I haven't used in ages.  How do I go about using my Pod with the cab because I know you can't just plug it in...or can you?  I don't know.

 

2nd question.  Because of the El Capitan driver issue, I opted to buy a s/pdif cable and use that to record my pod to my interface, which thankfully has a digital in input.  Once Line 6 gets the driver working for El Capitan, would there be any benefits to recording via the USB input versus sticking with the s/pdif connection?  So far I haven't noticed anything different.

You have a speaker cabinet but do you have an amplifier? You'll need an amplified speaker and the left analog out from the pod can be plugged into it. Then you just need to configure your output settings for the type of amplification your plugging into. As far as the settings go, it's all up to what you hear as to what setting your going to use. You should try them all to see what gives for your particular environment.

Hey BillBee!, I had to use Data Erase 3 times (about 3 hrs) in order to get the Complete Recovery to take hold, lol. The 'puter works great now, like new. Before I just erased it once and then did the recovery but I had all kinds of weird symbols on the screen and different colors and designs pop up during startup and the OS just didn't work right, lol.

I guess I had some really bad corruption on the disc, hahahaha. I guess I should've done the NSA Erase process :). Any it works great now and still has the original hard drives. Just for lollipops and giggles I ordered a Solid State Drive for it to see how that goes.

Rock On!

with DeepDown