jaeger28

I'm a ventriloquist :))))

Did this today. Yeah I love Wah. Slight preference for the real analog Wah on my side, a bit warmer quack in the mids, but Helix' Wahs with a little tweak totally cool enough for me!!!

Easiest way is to get an extra Midi Switcher. I have an MS-4 which can be configured for momentary on two different lengths of the impulse or latching. Cost me like 80€ once on ebay and it's just lying around these days because my amps have midi or just one switch ....

I have to admit, I'd call my amp guy before I try it, too.

Have you tried it? It might work, especially if your amp reads momentary impulses. I'm not sure though. But with a dim value of "0" and a lit value of "100" it might just work with some amps?

So I've been working with the Wahs quite a lot today and also did a comparison with my MXR 404. I really like what I get from the Helix. But would you guys agree that most of the default settings have too much range in the top end? I feel like most of them sound better with the upper peak freq lowered to like 1.9 KHz or even less, what do you think?

I have gotten annoyed too. I think needing 2-3 clicks to change Effect or being able to deactivate it globally so you have to click open the list to select FX type would be a solution.

Done! Great, I'm off to playing geetar. Nice weekend Line6ers :D

Nothing yet. After the weekend then I guess? Take your time guys, rather test and polish a bit more. Looking forward to some extra free candy soon :)

I had a freeze up on day 2 while being connected via USB (which seems a known issue) and been running hassle free since 2 weeks. Seems stable. But being able to bsckup all Presets on USB Stick would be handy if you need to factory reset while being out and about.

Yep sorry I meant Midi Clock. M13 can take MidiClock and I would say any normal Midi enabled gear from the 80s till today can both, send and receive Midi Clock. But Line6 might have fifferent priorities than this 'nerdy stuff' (which IMO is essential for integrating the gear in pro setups)

Huh big like!

Yea please. Use an intern to write it up in English. Some of the parameters are neither self explaining, nor available in the originals.

I have experienced this before with a Gigrig and Cornford Mk50 and buffering and isolation fixed it. I would assume the Helix is buffered but you could try a boss or any buffered pedal in bypass between Helix and amp in. If that doesn't fix it my bet would be on ground isolation. Order an iso box online so you can return it in case it's no remedy.

If Helix can send MTC Midi Time Code and M5 can receive it, that would be the cleanest way. I guess both should be yes but I leave it up to you to read the manuals and figure it out.

Depending on how grounds are designed in an amp or any other equipment, ground loops can always occur. It's very simple, you just need a passive Line Isolation Box/transformer isolator, Lehle P-Split is a bit more than that (also a Y-Splitter) but has a very high quality transformer, or get Palmer PLI-01 for the cheaper. Many other similar products out there. None of these would degrade your sound quality, just connect one of these before the amp input and done, the ground loop is broken. For example, I have a ground loop with my Ampete ONE, but not with my Randall RM100 and the Helix. With my old pedal board it is the other way round. The Line Isolator box will remove the issue in any case plus it comes in handy in many occasions, especially playing out live.

Oh. My. Good. What a lollipopstorm have I started? I just wanted to know what are the priorities for the next Helix release. I didn't ask to know any policy secrets, NRS action plans or super secret anti materials reactors tech. I doubt any stock broker will give a lollipop if there is a new phaser coming or a new amp model in the next release, or if it's only bug fixes. Let's all keep this civilized shall we? So if no developer is at liberty to speak about it, and no marketing executive bothers to read and write in this forums, fair enough so shall be it. Then just let this thread be and it will go down in the depths of the never-more-read page 759 of new threads. If there is more talk about stock secrets and other BS, then I'd politely ask the admins to close or delete this thread. Thank you.

If you're in Germany, I've seen the Friedman shall be available soon here: http://m.musik-produktiv.de/item/3130303738383137

Two direct recordings: First clip is some wide delay stuff with two guitar tracks, listen on headphones or stereo monitors: https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/a-helix-and-a-telecaster Second is some downtuned metal with an Ueber and a Panama: https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/messydiver

Try the Effect Loop on the amp in 100% first. If you have buzz in 4CM you need an isolator box for your connection from the helix to the amp in. Lehle P Split for example or Palmer or other. This is to transformer isolate and seperate ground on one of the connections to break the loop. Works fine no tone loss and these boxes are cheap.

There are several things that could cause this. I checked the Randall site and it says that the FX Loop of your amp is instrument level, so my advise will take this into account. Please connect 1. Your Guitar to the Guitar In 2. Helix Loop 1 Send To your Amp front input 3. Amp FX Send to Helix Loop 1 Return 4. Helix Main Left Out to your Amp FX Return The critical connection for your amp's drive level is number 2. Here the level has to be same as before, so your amp drive behaves like without Helix. Now go to Global Input settings and make sure that all 4, Instrument In, FX Loop.1 as well as main out on Helix are set to Instrument level. Also check the impedance of the guitar input, which is most punchy and trebly at 1 MOhm (default setting). Use an empty preset. Let's set the upper Row for before the amp, so input set to guitar, output to Send 1. The lower row for post FX so let's set input to Return 1 and output to Main Left. Now go to both, upper and lower chains and set the Gate to Off. For a test also set the Gate on your amp to Off. Gates can cut off the first few milliseconds of your playing attack, which can make your overdrive tones seem mellow. Max the big Output dial on the Helix and do a test on all 3 channels of the amp. Do you still experience problems? If this works you can start experimenting with gates and FX. Inhope you'll figure it all out and your 4CM Setup will work as good as mine.

I have not so much experience dialing in drop tuned metal stuff but I tried (actually my band plays a few tracks in Drop C). So this is not very clean playing or great production, Ubersonic and Panama panned L/R with 20%, Helix direct via USB (I used my trusted Ownhammer Greenback IRs). Post your clips and tell us how you made them, I need to learn! https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/messydiver

What is the pain putting a gain block and assigning a switch? Takes 20 seconds per preset. How much easier do you need it?

Here's another version with two plexis pushed by an OD808: https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/helix-direct-pushed-plexis

Here two more variations, only amp changed for the leads, first is the SLO with more gain and treble, second the JCM800 pushed by a Klon: https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/helix2 https://soundcloud.com/jaeger28/helix3-jcm800-and-a-klon