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lawrence_Arps last won the day on July 17 2016

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  1. I too am tired of people talking about things "sounding digital". There a great vid around from an Audio Engineering conference where they ran a file through a cheap ($30.00) soundcard over 100 times and no -one could hear any difference. Yes, back in the first year or two of CDs there were issues with the brick wall filters on the Players....and issues with mastering engineers preparing tapes for vinyl and then having it put on CD. None of that is relevant now. plastic is also a useless term - just like saying it sounds too orange, or too fur coat. also unhelpful is not specifying the signal chain and the monitoring system. If you run your helix though a headphone amp and into a 1000w poweramp then into a 1 inch compression driver with no horn there is a real chance it will sound "thin".
  2. Paulzx - the best approach is to run the Big knob as high as possible - I run mine full on, but some pull it back a fraction in case they need a bit of control at the gig. Many switch the Knob off altogether under Global. As a general rule the most appropriate gain-staging for any signal chain is to run each piece of gear at optimum (OdBm for analog/-14dBFS(ish) for Digital) and control volume at the last point in therchain.
  3. remember that the feedback is coming from the guitar......its the instrument reacting to volume. Therefore any and all sounds travel from the guitars output.
  4. I seem to have lost a post...apologies if it turns up and I repeat myself I have a few presets with 8 snaps...and some with 10 stomps. The complex 3 amp presets can easily introduce gain blips as settings between snapshots are not simultaneous...so if your solo sound has a boost later in the chain (amp 3 say) while your clean rhythm has amp 1 on there will be a split second when both amps are on. I know how to eliminate these issues but given that I found I only really used 10 tones (and some of those slight compromises to stay within 3 amps) it seemed like a good idea to try for a 10 patch single path approach. And its worked...except for the LEDS. My previous best solution was a 2 preset model with 5 snapshots, 4 stomps and a patch change all available at once. The patch change also didn't have an LED but it was always the switch for the other preset. In that version preset A was my "vintage" tones and preset two was my "modern " tones. The snapshots were consistent (clean, clean with mod, drive, Clean Solo and Drive Solo) and the stomps on both are Comp/more drive/more delay/more rev. If I cant adjust to losing the LEDs Ill go back to that model.
  5. you are forgetting that the PC uses an active crossover. The Celestion is a passive speaker. I am assuming this because you can change the level of the HF driver and/or switch it off.
  6. It seems that way. Shame. Just to clarify your second sentence doesn't seem right. Im using Stomp mode because it gives me 10 active switches. Im not using snapshots in this case because the idea was to avoid trying to cram all the options into one preset with say, three amps plus the various FX on 10 snapshots. Im choosing to use 10 presets built on a single path (only those blocks as needed for that tone) and achieving seamless switching. The 10 switches are assigned in the Command centre. As an approach for 10 tones it works perfectly well (so far I have not run out of blocks). I guess if I stick with this Ill have to learn to look at the screen for preset identification. Thats not so good....
  7. I was trying out preset spillover mode. My essential pallet of sounds numbers 10. 5 rhythm sounds and 5 solo sounds. Based on that I used Command centre to set up 10 patch changes on a 10 stomp page (I had to do this on all 10 presets). This all worked perfectly. I had the 5 rhythm tones on the bottom 5 switches and the solo tones on the top. In case you cant work out why - this allows me to access all 10 patches on a single click. What I cant achieve is the Switch LEDs. In Preset mode (maximum 8 showing) the active preset has a lit switch . when I switch to the 10 Stomp mode (which now has 10 presets set up) everything including the scribblestrips work perfectly except for the LEDS. The Customise function in Command Centre is greyed out. Any thoughts??? (Note: Im at work so cant post the 10 presets....)
  8. This. There is nothing lifeless or flat about the PC speaker emulations!
  9. there must be some other factor here. There is no issue with the response of the PC speaker models. I mainly use the Cream which is much less bright than the V30 model which I find too harsh... I dont use the FRFR mode but I tried it out - and had to cut the tweeter level down by about 6 dB to get a flat response -otherwise it was overly bright..
  10. This one seems odd to me. I usually start with my blocks all close to unity, then by the time I do some boosting on solo snapshots etc helix is running just over half on the output meter. If I turn this up any more then my clean tones trigger the red led on the powercab. based on my daw meters Im probably running the Helix at about -12. Overdriven sounds done trigger the red - that figures due to the compression. Anyway - my point is I dont have any issue getting strong output to the PC using L6 Link.
  11. Im unclear on this. The meter is kind of nice - but faily redundant if you maintain unity thoughout as recomended, leveling each block to its bypassed state.. Unity gain will be fairly low on the meter...havent actually checked that but -18 would be a reasonable guess with all blocks bypassed...might be lower. (and yes there is an exception when using a drive block to hit the front of an amop hard- in which case you balance the pair of blocks to bypass) The difference in volume between say, Rhythm and solo, may not show clearly on any meter - it must be done by ear. Given no one would reasonably be boosting by more than 6 - 10 db in volume during any edit why is it required to be jumping back and forward to the meter?
  12. Hi Michel There is no fixed preamp in Helix. There is only an amp or preamp if you put one of those blocks ibnto your signal chain yourself. If you are working in 4 cable mode, then just load the blocks you want as your FX - obviously deciding which ones you want before or after the Mesa preamp. If you decide to use a patch made by someone else (which I strongly recommend avoiding at al cost) then just delete the amp or preamp block.
  13. I opened HXEdit and it told me an update was available. I clicked on it and followed the instructions. All went well. I then went to read the notes and it mentioned downloadiong HXEdit 2.9.2. I checked HXEdit and it was still on 2.9>(I updated Edit at this point) Everything seems fine......should I be concerned?
  14. zombie2473 To answer the question you asked: There is no poweramp modelling in the Powercab, only speaker modelling.. The power amp modeling is part of the amp bock. Therefore, the reverb is always going to be after the poweramp modelling if its after the amp block..
  15. can someone tell me why you would want the tempo light to be off??
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