Zinc_Kovacs

Hi. The chip labelled Q1 is a photo-receptor. The LED D1 shines light at a constant level which is reflected by the white flag attached to the pedal and the amount of reflected light (as per the inverse square law) is detected by the detector Q1. Have you tried using a torch to shine on the Q1 detector? If you do that and see the Wah/Vol parameter change as you waft the torch over it, you will know if the detector circuitry is working and that it's the LED at fault. If not... then I guess you have bigger problems. If you have replaced the LED D1, does it light up? If not you could have put it in the wrong way round or maybe over heated it with the soldering iron. Michael.

Here you go Brynjar: Michael.

From page 40 of the manual: Swapping Snapshots 1. Touch (but don't press) the two snapshot switches you want to swap until the following dialog appears: Swap Snapshots 1 and 5? Cancel OK 2. Press Knob 6 (OK).

Hi rd2rk, I did a little video of the issue in action and added it to my post on the bugs thread. If you've got a spare minute, can you take a look at it and see if you can replicate the behaviour? Cheers, Michael.

Nuggs, I have exactly the same problem and can tell you (and rd2rk ;) ) that is definitely not finger trouble. I actually reported it on the bug report list last night before seeing your post here: Sound familiar? FWIW, I think it is very unlikely to be a hardware issue. Michael.

Hi Mitch, Sorry for not seeing your post earlier. This is the eBay listing here in the UK that I got the LED from: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ULTRA-BRIGHT-PLCC-2-3528-1210-SMD-LEDS-SURFACE-MOUNT-SMT-1-100-PCS-PLCC2/310314933505?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=610026721100&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Other than the physical dimensions which matched the broken item, the listing doesn't say anything about the spec for these LEDs. I seem to remember measuring the voltage across the pins on the board at 5V, which is pretty much what you would expect. I figured that if I fitted an LED with a lot lower forward voltage requirement, the worse that could happen is the LED would very quickly fail and I would just have to try another variety. I lucked out and it works fine! If you do replace the LED, use a low Wattage soldering iron i.e. 12W with a very fine tip. The thing is tiny any it would be very easy to overheat. The negative connector side is marked by a triangular notch in one corner. Needless to say, if you do perform surgery, it would almost certainly void any warranty... but then, if it was within warranty, I guess you wouldn't need to perform the surgery! Cheers, Michael.

Not sure if this has been reported yet but... there is an issue with Command Center "Note On" command when used with Snapshots. I have a patch that uses a foot switch assigned, via Command Center, to send a C4 Midi "Note On" message to a synth module. The patch uses a number of Snapshots BUT the note assignment often changes by itself on one or more of the snapshots to C-1. After some experimentation, I can say that the note value stays solid if you choose the note BEFORE making up the snapshots. But if you subsequently change the note value on a snapshot (and I believe the Helix is supposed to remember the note value within the snapshot) and then move to another snapshot, the note value jumps to C-1 no matter what it was originally set to. Even if you can get the note values to not shift between snapshots and save the preset, when you recall it, the random note changes come back. Sometimes it's fine until you actually play the note (push the foot switch) and then the note value changes to C-1 when moving to another snapshot. It would be great if this could be fixed in the next release :) Cheers, Michael. Helix Rack v2.70.0 Edit: Just updated to v2.71 and this "feature" is still present. Here's a little video to demonstrate the issue - maybe you can see if you can replicate it?

Despite repeated requests on this forum to make the function of the FS1 button anything other than engaging the looper (it seems very few people use it), it would appear that we are stuck with it. After accidentally switching on the looper once mid gig, I had to do something so I found I had a cap from an aerosol can that fitted over the button perfectly an held it in place with a bit of Blu Tack on top of the foot switch rendering it inoperable. If Line6 ever do release an update that sorts it out properly, I can just pull it off. Michael.

Story time... The expression pedal on my FBV3 died. I was performing a firmware update and afterwards it just stopped working. I thought it was too much of a coincidence so I tried reverting back to the previous version and it didn't come back to life. The thing is out of warranty anyway so I took off the bottom panel to have a look. See the attached photo... The expression pedal works by having an LED (D1 in the photo) illuminating a white flag that moves closer and further away as you operate the pedal. A light sensor (Q1 in the photo) then detects the change in light level reflected by the flag. I can tell the sensor is working because shining a torch on it caused a corresponding affect on the POD volume effect level. So I it's the little surface mount LED that has blown. The fact that it didn't visibly light up could have been due to being infra red but, no, it's blown. The whole expression pedal module is on its own small PCB so I contacted UK Yamaha service to see if they could send me a new expression pedal PCB. The only thing they could offer was for me to send the complete unit to them and they would replace the whole PCB set at a cost of £142 ($185). A whole new FBV3 in the UK is £176 ($230) so that wasn't a good option. So I ordered a pack of 10 surface mount LEDs from an eBay supplier and replaced the blown one. Expression pedal restored! Cost? £1.75 for the pack of 10 so 17.5p ($0.23) Now, I'm not saying that connecting the FBV3 to my PC to update the firmware was the cause of the LED blowing... but the coincidence does seem pretty suspicious... Michael.

A little anecdote for a Friday afternoon that could save you a costly repair. At a recent rehearsal using the new FBV3 with HD Pro X (very disappointed with the FBV3 but that's another story), half way through the FBV goes dark. No display, no lights, no function. The Pod seems fine so, assuming the new kit has broken, I swear a bit and carry on thinking it fortunate it was a rehearsal and not a gig. However, when I got home, I plugged my old Longboard with another cable and that doesn't work either. Basically, the cat5 cable that I've been using for years had failed causing a short between the power conductors which blew the FBV port on the Pro X. The Pod is out of warranty so I had to pay for the fix - a new main board at the UK's only service centre. So a $10 cable failure cost me a $350 repair. So my suggestion is that you decide what life to apply to your cat5 cable, be it age or a number of gigs, and trash it when it's done. Also, take care not to let the cable be crushed under flight cases or staging. Don't wait for it to fail and potentially damage your Pod! Michael.

Are these transmitters interchangeable for use with a G90? I could use a second TX as a spare/second guitar and see the V55 TBP12s come up quite often on Fleebay where as the Relay TBP12 less so... (Sorry if this has already been covered - I did search for it, honest!) Michael.

Hi J, thanks for the reply. I guess I can see why the L6 Link bypasses the Master Volume - you may be connecting a DT50 with it and the L6 XLR is also the AES out neither of which would you want the Master Volume getting in the way. It's just unfortunate that it's not a setup option for those of us wanting to hookup a L2m/t for backline or that the L6 Link isn't smart enough to work it out. I've noticed that the Unbalanced Outputs ARE post Master Volume so I'm likely to use that to connect the L2m which is a pity! Michael.

OK, so I've put aside my Vetta II and un-packed my new Pro X and L2m speaker. I hook them up with L6 link and put the L2m into 'Electric guitar' mode (funny, I thought the system was supposed to do that automatically). The trouble is, the Master Volume control on the Pro X does not affect the volume of what comes out of the L2m so the only way to adjust the volume is to reach round the back of the L2m and tweek the control there which is not so easy when it's in wedge config. I've hunted for a setup entry to change this behavior but I can't find anything. Have I missed it?