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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/02/2024 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. Hi Ron, I can help you. I bought my PSU from Farnell. Below is a link and all the spec sheets are there. For me it worked flawlessly and I haven't had a problem since. All the best with your repair, I know my heart was in my mouth until I made the change, switched it on and all was good. Best of luck! https://uk.farnell.com/xp-power/ecs65us12/power-supply-ac-dc-medical-12v/dp/1821421?CMP=e-email-sys-orderack-GLB
    1 point
  3. Yes...calmly go to his mixing board, identify the Trim/Gain knob at the top of your channel and point out which direction he should turn it to bring the signal level down. Tell him in the industry we all refer to that as "gain staging"......
    1 point
  4. Try a cable with plugs that have a tip/ring/sleeve on it (TRS with two insulator bands, not one),... stereo plugs.
    1 point
  5. Glad I found this! Came home today and im like you have my Helix turned on a lot of hours as I use it for my soundcard and also sometimes forget to turn it off overnight. Mine is also and early version bought early in 2016 and is in daily use. Came home today and house was all black, main fuse had been flipped. After a while I go to my PC and turn on the Helix (its connected to a remote outlet so the outlet hadnt been turned on after i flipped the fuse on again) turned it oin and only the small lcds flickered on the unit, smelled a bit burnt electronics in my room. After a while the small lcds displyes the labels, big lcd is black so i fired up HX edit and it finds the helix like usual but small lcds are flickering, starting a backup and halfway through the helix makes a popping sound from the power side and house turns black again. Opened it up and it's the same with mine, diode is burnt etc so im guessing power supply failure, i mean it happens with PC's as well etc. Its now all dead and black so im ordering the PSU you wrote and see if it helps, its 8 years old so warranty is out anyways. To bad tho the price on these things have risen 1/3 since i bought mine haha.
    1 point
  6. Hey, from what i know, the SOL is like the younger brother of the DC7. The DC7 has more output ports and has a passthrough to connect extension units like the DC8 or the Crux if you have a huge board etc... but otherwise they're mostly similar. Yes the SOL will work for what you're describing - you're right about the current doubler cable. This one in particular was recommended by a user also: https://logsdonaudio.com/cables/for-cioks-dc7-power-supply-and-line6-pedals-current-doubler-cable This will connect to the CIOKS power output RCA type connection, plus it's bundled into one simple cable. Hope i'm not too late with the input, cheers!
    1 point
  7. Okay, so the cutting in and out problem did indeed come back some weeks after my earlier post. I am going to revise what I said in my original post: I do believe that this is a design flaw in the Helix. Further, I believe that the guitar conditioning circuit is shorting out against the metal case. If you look at the attached Picture #1, you can see the input conditioning board attached normally. The board fits into a punched sheet metal slot and is secured via the 1/4" guitar jack. The board fits fairly deep into the slot. Picture #2 is the same board pulled out of the mounting slot. What you see is an electrolytic capacitor towards the top of the board and some exposed circuit pads. I believe this circuitry is the culprit for cutting in and out. Picture #3 shows my current 'fix' for this: some cheapo electrical tape that is wrapping all of the offending circuitry. I have had this in place now for several weeks with no issues. The reason I believe this is a design flaw is because it relies on several tolerances of the Helix enclosure to be correct. As an example, the main chassis needs to align correctly with the front bezel of the Helix. Another example would be how well the punched sheet metal slot tab is bent inwards. Because the input board is only secured via the guitar jack connector, there is room for the board to move depending on various factors. This would explain why some folks have this issue and others do not: it all comes down to how your unit was assembled. It also explains why folks notice this issue when they are playing 'hard'. Vibration of the Helix unit can translate into the input board vibrating and having quick 'shorts' against the metal chassis slot. My Helix is located right next to a powered speaker, so it is not surprising this happened if my theory is correct. As per my previous post, I will keep y'all posted.
    1 point
  8. The HX Stomps power supply is rated 3A@9V. This is more than sufficient to power both units. You just need a split adapter cable.
    1 point
  9. Ok, for anybody else who faces this problem. The news is good, the ECS65US12 works perfectly. The holes of psu circuit board are a little tight for the supporting pillars but it went on with a little effort. Everything is now working fine. Thanks to PierM and Datacommando for their support!!!! I hope this helps someone else if they have this issue. Although this is a relatively easy repair I would recommend this fix only if you have some experience with replacing boards and components. If you have built or maintain your own PC, this fix would be a piece of cake.
    1 point
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