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Then spend 10 minutes and just fix it yourself! No need to "clean" anything, since the Helix is brand-new. Take the back cover off. Loosen up the expression bolt or even remove it to make sure grease gets into appropriate places: wherever all those plastic spacers etc make contact with metal, it squeaks. Obviously don't grease up the thread of the bolt where the nut is attached, or it will come off. Otherwise grease everything up. Tighten all the screws while you're at it (in particular the "claw" that attaches the pedal to the mechanism). Those 2 screws need to be tightened, otherwise the pedal can go crooked. When it goes crooked, it squeaks and scrapes. At the factory they don't tighten it all the way. Some people say Lithium grease is bad for plastic, I don't believe it. Spread it all over like cream cheese on a bagel. It'll be absolutely fine. It's a 10 minute job. I've done way more complicated surgeries on my equipment. I addressed the squeaky pedal and my Helix has been silent since 2021. Out of all the Helix repairs, this one is the easiest. Just note which screws came from where when you remove the back cover off. Have good quality Phillips small/medium screwdrivers, so you don't strip the screws. With the Line 6 instructions, you should be all set.

Hi, Hmm… not a bug - it’s the way it works. A few things to bear in mind here - all signal paths are stereo throughout, and an amp block is essentially a mono effect. Any mono effect on a stereo path will collapse it back to mono. I’m not sure what you are really trying to achieve here? Are both of those signal paths using identical amp blocks with identical settings? If so, then have your drum bus feed into path 1, then add a single amp block adjusted to suit, then Y split the following path into 1A and 1B and then pan those hard L&R. Not sure if this helps - more info may be required.

One more update: for anyone who wants to edit from a tablet or phone without a cable to the pedal, there's now the Helrig Box, a small DIY Wi-Fi bridge that sits next to the pedal. You flash a Waveshare ESP32-P4-NANO board from the browser, plug the pedal into it, and the Helrig apps on Android, Mac, Windows and Linux connect over Wi-Fi. It works with every Helix and HX the apps support. Build guide: https://box.helrig.com Video: (Helrig is an independent project, not affiliated with or endorsed by Line 6 or Yamaha.)

Interesting. I don't think that the Stadium, nor the Helix, worked that-a-way. But I don't see why you can't have what you want. It is NOT a bug. I would file it as a feature request. But let me give it some thought. And maybe some really creative, knowledgeable, and talented types on here has figured, or can figure, this one out.

Have you registered your device?

This is very exciting! I've been wanting an editor for Linux almost since I got the Helix in 2015. I'll have to try this out - HX Edit has been almost the ONLY reason I've kept Windows devices and VMs around lately.

I’VE FOUND A FIX FOR THIS PROBLEM!!! I noticed that the only Setlists that were locked to Current Preset / Current Snapshot, were Setlists that had NOT had a preset added AFTER updating to v1.4. So I tried adding a random Preset to a Setlist that was locked within a Song, and when I go back in to the Song and try to add a Flag, not only can I add a Flag from the Setlist that was previously locked to Current Preset/Snapshot, but even better, ALL the correct Flags from before the v1.4 update were back in place in the Song again, and work as they should. If you don't want the Preset you just added in that particular setlist, you can clear it from the Setlist, and you'll still have access to that Setlist within the Song when you try to add a Preset and/or Snapshot Flag. I have shot a video, which is 276mb, but that is sadly far too big to upload here, so I don't know how to share that with you guys - hopefully my explanation will be enough.

I'll take that as permission https://github.com/zz9pa/Amplifree If Line6 disagree - I will of course take it down immediately. Still working on getting the editor working properly - but it should already allow selection of tones from the 100 stored on the amp, and the tuner probably works too Your mileage may vary etc.

In think, I got what you are speaking of... however,to my ears, mic placements changes sounds - sometimes even more than the cab itself... And some placements I never like... (Cone, close)... I think to understand the cab sound, for me it would help to go through with a standard mic setting... Should not be too hard to implement ("lock mic"-button)... That's why I wonder, if I miss something?