clay-man

2.2? What's the changes between 2.0 and 2.2?

Actually I agree. If you take out the guts, no one will really care about your guitar besides yourself because if they wanted your guitar, they'd just get one WITH the guts. Sorry to hear it's not working out for you.

Hi Rich. I always enjoyed the demos you did of the JTV. Hope you enjoy moving on,

The models on my guitar were extremely loud and it clipped when I played as hard as I can on the LP, so I had to lower the levels on all the models about -5db

all old electric variaxes have the same piezos. My thick strings were breaking a lot until I adjusted the action to be lower.

Keep in mind that they are in fact modeled after the guitars they represent, including the pots. Of course it will sound different than your mags, because they're not the same guitar pot values.

Turn them 180 degrees? Do you think the contact deteriorates overtime from string vibration? Also, yes, be very careful with the wires. They are extremely thin. I tried saving my D string piezo and I broke it. Luckily I ordered a replacement piezo just in case I couldn't fix the old one.

Yeah, why not just boost the levels in workbench?

I was mad at Line 6 when my GX crapped in under a year (warranty was out already though) because I was under a seriously small budget at the time. Saw the Variax guitars and gave it a shot, Love it to death. Would kill for the HD500 as well. Also a JTV even though I just got my gen 1 Variax last year.

Has this always been the problem? Are you using the HD 2.0 firmware or old firmware?

I think the palm muting sounds just fine even in the old Variax. The only problem I had with palm muting is on the LP model in standard tuning. It has way too much low end overtones in the palm muting. I made an SG model which is a bit of a brighter/crunchier LP and the palm mutes sound fantastic. LP sounds fine if you alt tune it down though. also, palm muting higher up the strings makes it mute stronger, giving it a more desirable palm mute.

JTV still grounds through contact with the bridge. They might of improved the contact and design though so that might be why they don't crap out so fast like the old Variax guitars.

You might need to send your guitar in for repair. Someone had a faulty acoustic and got theirs repaired. I don't think there's any piezos you can buy for the Acoustic Variax guitars to install yourself. That's only for all the old electric Variaxes. I'm glad you got it fixed for now, but I can vouch that it won't last forever unless you get it repaired. It was a real pain for me when it happened to me, until I finally replaced the piezo.

string volume works as a preamp for the piezos, so if there's any weird piezo clipping or quacking, then lowering the string volume should help. It's what I did when that happened on a few models of my Variax.

Because James Tyler thinks he can make it perfect without a string tree, fact is, he can't.

God, a proper headstock makes the 69 look 1000000000 more better.

Those are just the wires for the piezo. They are supposed to be a bit loose. It's fine. Do not mess with them or you might damage the connection between the piezo and the PCB that the piezos go to.

My 600 sounds pretty bad when I try to play hard on the acoustics, and those use the old Acoustic sounds. If they sound too boomy, cut off some of the low end with a high pass filter.

I can't believe how people whine about the new guitar models. They sound OUT of this world, nearly identical to actually miccing up an actual acoustic. I actually envy the acoustic sound on the JTV compared to my 600. It just sounds, wow. Like I might as well get rid of my acoustic and just record with a JTV if I have one. Now, I understand if it doesn't sit well in a mix. but that's what EQing is for.

I'm using a Variax 600. If you mean guitar modeling, I don't think that really matters as I think the pitch shifting happens before the modeling stage. I use multiple models. I have trouble on all of them above the 12th fret, especially on the ebg strings. A pitch shifter has different tracking than a MIDI/synth trying to figure out the note you're playing. When someone talks about a pitch shifter tracking, it's not really about it knowing what note you're playing, but rather knowing how to transform what you're playing to the right shift of pitch, without warble or any artifacts.

Lag isn't really a concern. I know there's lag in alt tuning but it NEVER bothered me unless I stacked it with even more lag on my DAW setup. That's my fault, not the guitar's. Like I said, I'm having problems past the 12th fret in alt tunings with pull offs, hammer ons, and slides. It gives an out of tune note from the note I'm playing because the pitch shifter isn't registering it correctly. I'm wondering if they've corrected these errors. Obviously they can, as there's pitch shifters out there with better quality than that, even ones that are polyphonic and still don't warble or give the wrong note from misreads. Obviously my 600 is using older pitch shifting technology, but the JTV has modern technology that should fix these problems.

I know they've changed the pitch shifter on the JTV over time. So the question is, does it track better? I can't do hammer on/pull off/slides high past the 12th fret or else it triggers an incorrect note of the note I'm playing. Is this any better in the JTVs?

It does it across the whole string, as if the pitch shifter for just that string is wonky, which is awkward.

I love the 600 neck, at least the feel. Mine needs a fret job to get rid of fret buzz but other than that it's great. I'd also suggest trying to swap the nuts on the guitar if possible.

I have thought about that, that the tone on 100% is what is more accurate, but I don't know. I like the full sound. I can easily remove the mod. I wouldn't suggest doing it yourself unless you know what you're doing. I put dabs of super glue on the knob to create a bump on the knob, then I glued a small cut of plastic on the pickguard under the tone knob so that it obstructs the super glue bump from rolling past 8.5. I rolled the knob to about 8.4-8.6 and slid the knob back on to where the bump and the plastic are meeting up just right. Now it won't go past 8.5, but like I said, I can 1) pull the knob up off the pot a bit to bypass the obstruction. 2) remove it with some tools and cleaning products. ...if I ever want to return it back to normal.