BucF16

I will admit that I never went and bought new cables. I initially had my share of Line6 link issues but for my setup, I've almost always fixed it with swapping out cables. Through process of elimination I have narrowed it down to the cables that I know are going to work and I haven't had any issues w/ L6 link in a while.

Checked it out and that seems to be the issue. I always forget to check that input source window since I never set it that way! Nailed it Charlie!

Question for the genius's: If I have an input that is running with Trim Tracking on and later on I turn it off, what happens to the post input delta's that were applied while it was on? Do they remain in place but unchanging? Are they immediately discarded? Or do I not understand what is going on .... again?

OK. Answering my own question here. My HD500 just doesn't seem to get hot enough output under normal circumstances to drive the meter to turn red. Tried a stronger input source and I was able to drive the meter red no problem.

Thanks so far for the responses. Still have some questions. I'm sitting here with my HD500x plugged in and am driving the input pretty hard. With Auto Trim selected and no Trim Tracking on with a std lead tone I get a setting of around 14db. Yet I can go to manual trim with tracking off and drive it up to about 32db the meter is pegged but nothing changes color. I can drive it all the way to 60db, the meter never wavers because it's already pegged but nothing changes color. Obviously I should be clipping long before this...and it sounds like it's clipping but not near as much as I would think. The "background" of the meter is red, but it's always red with trim selected as the control.

Long time Vx and JTV Vx user. I have an HD500X Recently I downloaded a lot of patches from another POD user. His patches were all made with the HD500 and had the .h5e file extension. I changed the file extensions manually to .5xe and opened them in my 500X. The sound just fine...except. For those patches ONLY my JTV vx alt tuning bleeds through both the original note and the alternate tuned note. I'm 100% certain I'm not just referring to ambient string sound. I've been using Vx's since 2005 so I'm familiar with the issue. Plus it works just fine on any patches I've created by myself or that originally had the .5xe extention. Is this common? Is there some way to convert these patches? Could this be what's causing the ghost note issue others have described. He had a lot of them and they're very good.

Right, except an old analog board would have a red light that would show you when you were clipping the input. The old method being that you would try to take the highest level of gain that wouldn't clip the input. (Manual trim is also available on the Performance page in slider view, or also available on the tweak page for the input) How do I know when I'm clipping? If I drive the manual trim up high enough for the signal to hit the top of the linear guage then I usually end up with some unrealistically high gain settings. Much much higher than Auto Trim would have set.

Trying to understand more about the input trim issues. 1. If I use Auto Trim to trim an input and it shows something like -3db I would then expect that if I go to look at the trim manually it would say -3db when in fact it shows something totally different. It appears to me that the auto trim only shows the change that it will make to current trim setting. Is this correct? 2. If I want to set trim levels manually, what is the procedure that you would do equivalent to a manual board? It appears to me that Auto Trim sets input levels much lower than I would get using what I think is the correct method. 3. If I turn off Auto Trim and Trim Tracking and set a unrealistically high input gain setting (lets say 50db) that should definitely cause clipping and distortion, then I turn Trim Tracking on and start playing why don't I see my trim settings change? Trim tracking seems to be changing the input trim but I can find no evidence of it other than my ears. As we all know, our ears are very unreliable sometimes. Is there somewhere I should see the effects of trim tracking?

Right!. Sounds like a great idea. I have a Motion Sound amp with internal mics on the leslie. It picks up a little bit of background noise too. Very little but it would be easy to gate it out too. I might just steal that idea. It doesn't cut off any of the intended attack dirtiness of the Hammond? Either the contact click or if any of the percussion switches are down?

Pardon the stupid question, but as a keyboard player I have to ask why you would use a gate on keyboards?

True, but in a situation with a very dynamic input, wouldn't it be possible for a transient peak to reset the gain and then for the average output to end up lower than it was before? The key here is something that might have a very transient peak. Say for example a singer yelling into a microphone, and then when you come back to a soft part of the song he's just not there anymore? That's our theory anyway. There's too many moving parts in the heat of battle to nail this down scientifically.

For stereo paired channels you cannot adjust the individual gain manually. The inputs are paired. Like I said, a reset fixes the problem. I record almost every gig I do. When I drop the wav files into Logic you can actually see input trim change for some tracks just by looking at the waveform. Besides the stereo channel balance issue, I've had problems with lead singer vocals changing input during the gig. I can clearly see it happen on the waveforms that are recorded. I have had very little confidence that it's the M20D causing the problem thinking it was most likely a cord or the singers mike, although that is changing. We've started using a dedicated sound guy and he's been running the trim tracker off and manually setting the trim and, for our limited data points, I think we're getting a better result. Very hard to tell at this point.

I have had the same or similar problem (if I understand the OP correctly) Paired stereo inputs not matching levels. I play keyboards and run direct from my keyboard amp to the M20D. Periodically I would have drastically different L/R levels. Confirmed by the direct recordings and by observation of the output meters...and of course how it souded. One channel much louder than the other. At first I thought it was anything BUT the M20D. Spent a lot of time and effort checking out my amp, then the cords. Then I thought it was the M20D on specific inputs. I finally realized that it could be fixed by turning the M20D off and back on. In my home studio I will sometimes run two channels back from my computer for playback music to practice with. I've had the exact same problem with both XLR combo jacks and the 1/4 jacks using balanced TRS cords. The fix was identical to the paragraph above.

Pretty sure it was in the notch at 12 o'clock. I wasn't running sound then. When I first had the system, we ran them higher than 12 and it didn't sound good and we had feedback problems. Now we always run at 12 and it's still plenty loud. If you have problems getting volume out of certain things, I usually have found it's input level to the mixer that might be causing the problem. As a test, see how loud you can pump recorded music through the aux with the speakers at 12.

Might be the speaker BUT I've had similar issues with a bad XLR connection in the Line6 link. The loose XLR connection caused the speaker to continually cycle while it tried to figure out how many speakers were in the system. We initially diagnosed it as a power problem with the speaker and tried to change power sources and cords, with little luck. Then we changed to a different XLR cord and voila. This may not be your problem but the symptoms look just like some sort of power failure in the speaker.

I've had problems with my iPad dropping out with airplay but the M20D app still seems to be working. Sometimes between sets when I'm just playing music through the PA from my iPad, especially when starting a new song, the iPad Music App will just freeze and quit playing. Everything else is working but I can't airplay a song to the PA. Had this happen one gig extensively and then sporadically since.

I've played a "baseball diamond" sized outdoor venue with 2xL3 and 2xL3S. For anything in the "infield" it was plenty loud. If you were in the "outfield" it was loud enough to hear but plenty comfy to carry on a conversation (according to our soundman). I know sometimes it might be the input level you're getting from your mic'ed instruments. As proof, I typically have NO problem getting VERY loud from pumping music direct into the aux input. I've never heard Rush Moving Pictures sound as good as through my L3's.

L3 is louder than anything you'll need onstage. Way louder than your 1x12 Marshall. If you have a decent PA I would suggest L2, and save your hearing. An L2 should be all you need to monitor guitar onstage.

Wish I could remember. It was quite a while ago and it was the one my guitar tech thought would be best, so I didn't really question or shop around. I just wrote him a check and did what he said.

I've had the speaker show red if the band is playing while the XLR cord is going bad. I initially thought it was a power supply problem since we weren't that loud. However it turned out to be a bad XLR connection, that when fixed, worked fine the rest of the evening.

Less scoop, more midrange. A common lament of the recent modeller convert.... Us geeky modeller guitar players tend to make patches in a room by ourselves or playing along with a studio recording that is totally lacking in low end. Then we bring our fantastic patches to practice and find out that the live sounds our drummer and bass player are using are a complete conflict with our tones! The nerve of these fellas! The result can be a total volume war. So, if competeing with a heavy hitting drummer and other guitar players, tweak your solo patches for more midrange and 3-9 db boost (depending on the patch and the mix). You will find that the "smaller" sounding patches sit better and cut through better with less volume IMHO. Sooooo many guitar players forget that the low end is left to the bass player. I continue to make these mistakes every day. One of the best work arounds is to be good enough with your POD to be able to tweak on the fly at practice. Then if you can only get some consistency out of your bandmates (good luck!) you'll have better results.

The more I play my 69 the less I want to go back to the 700.

Totally didn't know that. That will help BUT There's songs that I play both instruments and quickly change between the two. Playing keys with a pick in my teeth and standing on the sustain pedal while I bring the volume knob up. Another question would be, is the eq-ing that is happening in the speaker mode passed on in the speaker-out? If it isn't I might as well run direct to the board.

I'm a keyboardist and guitar player. I've been toying with using the 2 L2's as common speakers for my rig so that I can run both my keyboards and my HD500 into a pair of them. I would like to run both HD500 and Keyboards to a stereo paid or L2's and then run from the speakers direct to the PA. My problem is that while I like the sound of the L2's in Electric Guitar Mode with the HD500 I don't like them in PA/Ref with the HD500. Is there a way to work around this?

It could still be an XLR cord issue. It looks very similar to a power cycle but it's the speaker resetting when it looses contact with the speakers downline.