vmoncebaiz

Oh ok. I might have misread #2. I thought it had the NS2 in front of Helix, then again in the a secondary HX loop. I meant to recommend placing it between Helix Send 1 and the front of amp, and then again before it hits the Amps FX loop return (I think you are already doing the second part) Also, I found using the FX loops themselves can sometimes introduce noise if place before a high gain amp model, or sometimes when used in front of physical high gain amps. Curious to hear how the Hush stacks up.

I agree with the idea that most players compensate when playing unplugged or at very low volumes by hitting harder, which can affect buzz. And I agree with the idea that those frequencies are probably more discernible on modelers with FRFR or monitor systems. The other idea I'd add in is that using headphones or studio monitors usually has the speaker placed closer to your ears than a guitar cab would be. So even if those noises were coming out of a guitar cab, they might be hidden a bit more with distance and at gig volumes.

High five on the guitar and for Rich. Before Line 6, I had worked as a guitar tech for years. That dude knows his stuff for sure, and I learned a ton of stuff from him on how well those guitars can be with some minor adjustments.

Hey MCPhilpot. As far as I understand, there is no actual product named Relay G90 Pro. I believe in some dealer listings, the word pro appears as a description of the Relay G90, not as an actual product name (as in Relay G90, Pro Rack-Mounted Digital Wireless System). Although it did confuse me too, since it is directly following the Relay G90 name and the comma isn't always there. I even did a quick google search, and one did in fact pop up on Amazon. There was even different product picture. Turns out they are selling the Relay G90 (as we all know and love it) and the picture seems to be an outdated concept picture. If you are experiencing drop outs at fairly short distances, have you noticed if they occur right away? Or do they only occur after 10-15 of being really close to the receiver? When I was doing in store demos of Relay G50, I'd leave the belt pack next to the receiver while I walked around. If it sat for a while and I came back I sometimes experienced drop outs. I found that switching to low power mode prevented those drop outs. Particularly when using RF 1 mode. If your unit is 5-6 years old and hasn't been updated, then it is most likely in RF1 mode. This was recommended to me by a former Line 6 employee who was much more wise in the ways of digital wireless than I am. Without seeing every venue you play or knowing your current setup, I can only recommend you keep your transmitters closer to your antennae than anything broadcasting Wi-Fi (and in line of sight if possible). The other common issue I've come across is if other members of your band are playing wirelessly as well, you should work to have all the systems operating in the same RF mode. And even then, use the G90's channel scan to find the best channels at each venue (the channels that show small bars or no bars are free). Try not to assume that if channel 2 works here, it will be available everywhere, all the time. Hope any of that helps.

A couple last things to try - Place the NS2 after Helix in front of the amp, and then in the amps FX loop. So it would look like this: Guitar > Helix > Helix Send 1 into NS2 > NS2 Out into Amp input > Amp FX Send into Helix Return 1 > Helix 1/4" out into Amp FX Return. If you absolutely needed hum reduction directly after the guitar, you could use the input gate on Helix (it works great for hum, but isn't perfect for the staccato/ quick mutes part). Also, the same way the NS-2 reduces hum at two places, you can try using more than one noise gate block in Helix. The hard gate option takes a little time to set up but is really good for tight gating. Its like gain staging with pedals, but for quiet instead of gain. If you are looking to change noise gates I highly recommend the MXR Smart Gate. If the 2x Ins and 2x Outs is a must have feature, ISP's Decimator G String could help you out. I went from the NS-2 to the ISP, then eventually to the MXR. Both are upgrades in transparancy. Good Luck.

I've never been much of a Marshall fan. I love the way they sound when others play them, but generally not for me. I would have been content with only the J45 and Plexi models. That being said, I found the Britt 2204 Mod is one of the best feeling amps in Helix. I'd be bummed had they stopped adding in Marshalls before that one. Although, I agree that a Friedman or two would be incredible additions.

You can use the tuner option on Helix to mute the patch. Connect your external tuner to Helix send 3 or 4 (assuming your send 1 or 2 is tied up in 4CM). Hold the tap tempo button to engage the onboard tuner and you can change the output (knob 2) to read Send 3/4. It should mute everything except a line to the other tuner.

I attempted to use one when I first got Helix and it would work from 0% up to 50% of its travel, then it would reverse and go down to 0% parameter level as the pedal continued to move towards the toe. Im curious to try what you posted as well as test it with the polarity flip in Helix.

I felt the same way about the non-MPT versions. I'm never sure if its a real thing Im hearing or if I'm just slightly losing my mind while comparing tons of IRs. Always glad to see someone else thinks so too. If anyone is using multiple IRs, or to blend IRs and the stock cabs, then I would stick with the MPT versions.

I run my JP15 one cable out and into Helix's guitar input. I still arm multiple paths in Helix with that as the input block and I use volume pedals (to the output block of each path) to switch between different sounds in the preset. This is just because I like to control the mag vs piezo manually on the guitar. Using separate cables could let use two separate input sources. You could then leave the JP with both mags and piezo armed and use footswitches, or snapshots, to choose your pathing. So you wouldn't have to make any adjustments on the guitar for piezo vs mags. I'd recommend plugging the piezo into the FX Loop returns over the aux input in any case. Hope that helps (coming down from a week with the flu, so I might not be making sense). Feel free to message me if you need some help setting up something.

In 10+ years of guitar repair, I've don't think I've ever stumbled across a guitar that didn't have glued in frets. They are probably out there, but it's safe to assume most use glue.

The Spider V 240HC does have a switch on the back that disables the cabinet modeling. This is meant to be used with cabs other than the Line 6 4x12. DarkMantle was correct in saying the Spider cab is meant to be neutral in order to benefit from the software cab models. You can certainly still use the Spider V 240HC's cab modeling feature with 3rd party cabs, just be aware that it might not always be ideal.

The power amp controls do affect feel, but they are subtle, at least to me. I notice the feel difference with moderate adjustments. I usually have to make large adjustments to really notice a difference in the sound. I've found that Sag and Bias work well when turning them in opposite directions. That way I don't have to get extreme with either parameter to make a noticeable change. So for a tighter feel, I drop sag and raise bias. For a looser feel, I raise sag and lower bias. Note that the higher the master volume parameter is, the more noticeable the adjustments will be for all of the power amp paramters. I don't use the bias excursion, hum, or ripple. I have messed with them and found that changing an IR or a mic and its distance works out better for me.

I recently saw Jeff Loomis announce he is now using Helix into Seymour Duncan power amps on tour (Arch Enemy, Solo Artist and Former Nevermore guitarist). I know some folk tend to discredit the high-gain shredder category, but he's been playing/touring for so long now and is a pretty big name in that arena. I'm just excited to see one of my favorite players on the roster.

I think I'm late to the game here, but I did email with PRS about this a while ago. They offered two solutions. They can mod the Archon with standard 1/4" inch jacks for foot switches. It won't power the LED on the included foot switch, but it will function fine and work with Helix. I think they charged $100 for the option He also recommended I check out Voodoo Labs. They makes a cable that goes from the 5-pin to 1/4"

Hey guys. I am really sorry for those of you who showed up at the Guitar Center in Charlotte, NC on 7/27. It wasn't exactly a no show. We actually held a TMP clinic at the Sam Ash Music store in Charlotte that evening. But most unfortunately, the event posting was incorrectly listed as the Guitar Center in Charlotte. Again I apologize to the guys who missed out because of this mistake. I was completely unaware of the mix-up until the following day. That Guitar Center location is certainly not to blame, as they wouldn't be expected to have any idea about an event they aren't actually hosting.

I run something similar with my musician JP. I have been messing with using snapshots to bypass everything but an IR block, compressor, and reverb. It also changes the IR from a cab to an acoustic body IR. I still run one cable from the guitar so I do the piezo switching there, but you certainly can set it up with two inputs.

I think you've got it figured out, but you'll want to play the LOW E on the 10th fret while the rest are on the 12th fret. Basically you are able to keep the guitar physical tuned to standard or drop, and then you can base your alt tunings around your preference.

I don't own any tube amps at the moment. I don't feel like I need one, even though I still do love a lot of different tube amps. I just play 90% of my time in my bedroom so the Helix through studio monitors is perfect for me. I would love to buy one again and start using it along with a load box and Helix. But I haven't felt like the current set up is lacking. For gigging with Helix, a monitor solution would only have to be for you to hear yourself, and maybe for your bandmates to hear some stage volume from you. Generally you'd be relying on the PA for the rest of venue to hear you. Same way you'd be relying on the PA when you mic a tube amp.

With any block in your signal chain (in your case, the delay), you select it, and press the "Action" button grab it. Then, press down on the joystick and it will move to a second parallel path. Using the same process, you can move the split and merge points around too to have certain effects interacting with others as you please.

In the Workbench HD software, you can assign a tuning to an instrument model. If you set up, say, Lester 1 to have an Open C tuning, whenever the tuning knob is on the "Model" position, it will use your assigned Open C tuning. You can also do it just on the guitar with Virtual Capo. That will let you over write any one of the tuning knob positions and use the tuning with any of the other instrument models. Here's a quick tutorial if you aren't familiar with the using the feature.

Yes Sir, it is very possible. There are plenty of resources on this forum, or the internet in general, on how to set up what is called four-cable-method. In Helix there are also factory presets to help you get started. The presets you want are in setlist 8 (labeled "Templates"), and have all of the necessary routing built-in.

In regards to the connecting via USB, try different ports. I don't know why, but it seems to work on some and not others on my PC. If you go through what cruisinon2 mentioned above and are still hearing ghost notes, check your guitar's set up, specifically its intonation.

I'm not exactly sure what you want them to do. But for simply running the beat buddy into Firehawk FX, I'd say use the FX loop returns. I think you should also move the FX loop block to the end of your signal chain.

If you can get it working, the direct out on the Jubilee should give you a line level back into Helix (make sure the return you're using on Helix is set to Line level and not instrument). I've never been a fan of the direct out option on amps. Although I haven't tried Marshall's version, most don't sound very good to me. Alternatively, you could run a speaker load box from the amp's actual output and send that back into Helix. Then you'll need a cab block or IR for it. Pete Thorn does this in studio with Suhr's reactive load box. I have yet to try this, but it seems like an awesome way to get tube amps into Helix's signal path.